I found a 1989 LT40HD I am going to go drag home this weekend and need to know if it will fit on my trailer since the brakes are froze up.
Can someone tell me how wide it is from the outside of the tires so I can make sure it will fit?
I am assuming about 21 or 22' long? it is about 60 miles from me and the owner is not where the saw is so he won't be able to measure it ahead of time.
Thanks
I think my LT40 (2001) is 78" wide to outside of tires. And 26 ft overall length but about 18 from tongue to back of tires. Certainly would fit on a 20' trailer with 6' of the main rail hanging over the back end.
Darn my trailer is 6' 3" between the fenders. I am hoping the older ones were narrower it did not look that wide I should have measured it.
Maybe you can take the rims off and sit it on the hubs.
Or reverse the rims so they sit in.
Kirk,
Just brainstorming and may be totally out in left field but could you take the wheels off and load it on a dolly and get it to fit?
You could set it on the jacks which would definitely fit in 6'3".
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on January 07, 2016, 08:15:09 PM
Kirk,
Just brainstorming and may be totally out in left field but could you take the wheels off and load it on a dolly and get it to fit?
Ya that would work I may do plan "b" a pull in a favor for a different trailer and just use mine to haul the bed extension and shake attachment on mine.
Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on January 07, 2016, 08:15:47 PM
You could set it on the jacks which would definitely fit in 6'3".
This is a great idea in my opinion. Be carefull......or buy alla the brake parts, put em on and drag thet puppy home... :D
I think having the mill set on the outriggers is the safest option, even if you had room for the tires. You could also take 2 skinny boat trailer tires, which would cut several inches off each side and just put them on to load it.
Would BlueCreeper loosen those breaks up? Just asking. :)
All great ideas but to many unknowns since it is 50 miles from nowhere and another 50 miles to somewhere I think taking a trailer it will fit on is the best option. And yes jacks down seems to be a good plan. I will send pic's when it gets here.
Thanks guys
Since the brakes are frozen and it doesn't roll, you will need a winch on your trailer to load it, unless there is equipment there to set it on your trailer. I can imagine taking a lot of tools, come a longs, boards, chains, etc. Might be simpler to hire a guy with a rollback. Of course, I most definitely would try to do it myself like you. Good Luck.
Seems working around the seized brake problem would be the easiest and cheapest work-around.
But wish you the best getting it home.
My breaks failed on my 1992 LT40 somewhere around Ashland and I pulled in all the way home in the Roseburg area with my silvardo 2500 and never really missed them. If it were me, I'd just pull the brakes off and tow it home. Would most likely be less work than dragging it up on a trailer on wheels that don't turn.
With the way an LT40 is shaped, being so far from the wheels to the tail end, getting it onto a rollback truck might be a problem.
Nomad, Good point. The way Tim at WM explained it when I bought mine, the brakes only deploy when the mill and pulling truck accidently separate at the hitch. That way you don't have a runaway mill on the highway. I don't think the brakes deploy in normal stopping. I might be wrong. Anyway, there might be a quick way to release the brakes so it can be towed normally.
No the brakes work with a brake control box under the dash of your truck and hopefully when you use your brake pedal
You can buy a kit that comes with backingplates wheel cyl shoes and brake drums just bolt on and hook up brake line. But you need to know what size to buy .
Not all lt40's have electric brakes....
Mine came with hydraulic surge brakes wich deploy when the weight of the mill pushes forward when the truck pulling it slows down. I have to put a bar in the brake activator to be able to back up a steep hill or else the weight of the mill pushes the brakes on .
I would take a trailer to get the mill, if the brakes are locked up, you have no idea of the condition of the wheel bearings. Trailer her home and then you can take care of all the issues one at a time under no stress. ;) :)
Pics will be appreciated !!!!! :)
Quote from: Darrel on January 08, 2016, 12:56:53 PM
My breaks failed on my 1992 LT40 somewhere around Ashland and I pulled in all the way home in the Roseburg area with my silvardo 2500 and never really missed them. If it were me, I'd just pull the brakes off and tow it home. Would most likely be less work than dragging it up on a trailer on wheels that don't turn.
x2 i dont have brakes on either mill and have no trouble but i pull them with either a f250 or c3500 so the trucks are heavy enough to handle it :)
I agree with Darrell take the brakes off.
You sure its the brakes and not the bearings?
Bearings and brakes are one thing, but based on the age my question is: are the tires capable of doing the trip without failing?
Trailering it home might be the best and safest way to go.
Gerald
Going to try to tow it back we are thinking since the wheels are off it may be just ice. Today we are in a holding pattern due to ice and freezing rain.
I would be reluctant to tow it if it has sat for years.I bought a 10 year old WM that hadn't moved since new.I towed it 200 miles from CT.to Vermont.When I pulled in to my dooryard the wheel fell off.I was very lucky.For piece of mind I would trailer it.Especially if you are 50 miles from nowhere.
Probably better take the safest option now that all the planning has been posted online. ;)
Quote from: KirkD on January 09, 2016, 12:33:03 PM
Going to try to tow it back we are thinking since the wheels are off it may be just ice. Today we are in a holding pattern due to ice and freezing rain.
Hey... If the roads are all ice you should not have a problem moveing it brakes froze or not and
you would be sure to get a free video from some one who posted you on U-tube pulling it.
Yeah,like the state police.
Just unplug the brake controller from the back of it. If the brakes are frozen drive forward and backwards a couple times they usually free up. Good luck
My 1992 also has the hydraulic surge breaks and because I'm in Utah right now and my mill is in Oregon, I can't just go out and look at it. Went to my account at Wood-Mizer's online store and looked it up and they show nothing on the breaks for my sawmill. Guess that means that we'll have to go elsewhere to get parts.
Quote from: Darrel on January 09, 2016, 09:16:51 PM
My 1992 also has the hydraulic surge breaks and because I'm in Utah right now and my mill is in Oregon, I can't just go out and look at it. Went to my account at Wood-Mizer's online store and looked it up and they show nothing on the breaks for my sawmill. Guess that means that we'll have to go elsewhere to get parts.
There are things that I can't find on their online store. Give them a call. I would be shocked if they didn't have parts for a mill they built.
Quote from: Darrel on January 09, 2016, 09:16:51 PM
My 1992 also has the hydraulic surge breaks and because I'm in Utah right now and my mill is in Oregon, I can't just go out and look at it. Went to my account at Wood-Mizer's online store and looked it up and they show nothing on the breaks for my sawmill. Guess that means that we'll have to go elsewhere to get parts.
For my WM mill, in the Woodmizer online store, I click....
Parts Selector
Name of my sawmill in the equipment listing
Category = Trailer Options
Section = (yours would be Surge Brake Trailer)
Assembly = Trailer Axle Assembly
HOWEVER.....while they have tire/wheel, bearings, Axle, they don't sell brake shoes or other brake parts for the axle.
For brake parts you would need to get the axle specification from Wood-Mizer and then go to Dexter Axle (they have a good online store), a trailer place, or pick them up at NAPA.
It would be nice to open them up to find out what's going on first then go into town and get what you need.
It could well be that the emergency breakaway switch was pulled (plunger missing), the breaks went on until the battery died, then stuck. IF there's corrosion inside you might be better off getting the whole assembly with backing plate probably only double the cost of shoes if you buy it right.
Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on January 09, 2016, 01:47:40 PM
Probably better take the safest option now that all the planning has been posted online. ;)
Good point.... Lol got it home "safely" after prying the drums off and getting the stuck shoes off the drum.
Quote from: larrydown60 on January 09, 2016, 09:06:05 PM
Just unplug the brake controller from the back of it. If the brakes are frozen drive forward and backwards a couple times they usually free up. Good luck
Oh they were stuck
Quote from: Darrel on January 09, 2016, 09:16:51 PM
My 1992 also has the hydraulic surge breaks and because I'm in Utah right now and my mill is in Oregon, I can't just go out and look at it. Went to my account at Wood-Mizer's online store and looked it up and they show nothing on the breaks for my sawmill. Guess that means that we'll have to go elsewhere to get parts.
The way I will go is to buy new backing plate assemblies and converting it to electric. Since they are Dexter axles you can by the whole assembly for not much more than replacement shoes.
I will try to post some pictures later when the fog is gone and it warms up.
Thank you for everyone's input.
Quote from: KirkD on January 10, 2016, 11:25:40 AM
The way I will go is to buy new backing plate assemblies and converting it to electric. Since they are Dexter axles you can by the whole assembly for not much more than replacement shoes.
I will try to post some pictures later when the fog is gone and it warms up.
Thank you for everyone's input.
Good choice Im thinking. Once you get over paying for all that, you will be able to drag that mill anywheres there is logs to be cut. When I got my first LT40, I had nothing but a canthook(pre logrite days) to move logs so I just moved the mill to where the log was..10 miniutes tops and I was cutting. Great days a comming :D
@terrifictimbers In the selection process, when I click on category it says "There are no options in this category."
@KirkD (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=31311) That is exactly what I'm going to do. And glad you got your new to you mill home.
Quote from: Darrel on January 10, 2016, 11:49:37 AM
@terrifictimbers In the selection process, when I click on category it says "There are no options in this category."
@KirkD (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=31311) That is exactly what I'm going to do. And glad you got your new to you mill home.
Six Robblees' is in Portland, Eugene and Medford and is a Dexter distributor. A friend told me though that Coyote Steel in Eugene has better prices.
Ok we all like pictures
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41311/IMG_2463.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41311/IMG_2464.JPG)
It was converted to electric but I am going back to gas for my application.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41311/IMG_2466.JPG)
Got a planer with it that needs cleaned up
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41311/IMG_2467.JPG)
Ok is this part of the shake attachment or?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41311/IMG_2468.JPG)
The 12' extension is missing the jack stands but he thinks he knows where they are along with the trailer fenders.
I also got the orignal manual, a Woodmizer auto sharpener and tooth setter which is pretty rough since they were outside. Oh and 40 bands which half are new.
Quote from: KirkD on January 10, 2016, 11:54:07 AM
Quote from: Darrel on January 10, 2016, 11:49:37 AM
@terrifictimbers In the selection process, when I click on category it says "There are no options in this category."
You can only select parts for a piece of equipment listed in the parts selector. After I click on shop parts, I see this (only showing a partial view because I don't want to post all my info showing there):
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21495/WM_equip_selector.jpg)
Do you see your sawmill? Maybe not if you haven't registered it yet there?
Then I click on the LT40HDD42RA and then I go to the next screen where "Categories" shows.
Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on January 10, 2016, 12:16:13 PM
Quote from: KirkD on January 10, 2016, 11:54:07 AM
Quote from: Darrel on January 10, 2016, 11:49:37 AM
@terrifictimbers In the selection process, when I click on category it says "There are no options in this category."
You can only select parts for a piece of equipment listed in the parts selector. After I click on shop parts, I see this (only showing a partial view because I don't want to post all my info showing there):
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21495/WM_equip_selector.jpg)
Do you see your sawmill? Maybe not if you haven't registered it yet there?
Then I click on the LT40HDD42RA and then I go to the next screen where "Categories" shows.
Obviously since I just got it yesterday I don't have a account yet. But I see no reason to order dexter brake parts and have them shipped when I can drive to town and pick them up.
KirkD
I just replaced the backing plates and master cylinder on my machine, decided to stay with the surge break system. Got them from Eastern Marine & Trailer Parts Super Store for 1/2 the price the local dealer wanted, they also have the elect. parts if you chose to go that way. My trailer axle was a 7000#, it should be listed in the manuals you got.
KrikD, looks like you got a great deal
KirkD,
Did you tow the mill behind the trailer? ;D ;D ;D
Not mentioning names but others here have actually done that.
Quote from: 47sawdust on January 10, 2016, 02:39:35 PM
KirkD,
Did you tow the mill behind the trailer? ;D ;D ;D
Not mentioning names but others here have actually done that.
No we had two trucks. I have always wanted to do that but here in Oregon they frown on that.
Quote from: KirkD on January 10, 2016, 02:54:02 PM
Quote from: 47sawdust on January 10, 2016, 02:39:35 PM
KirkD,
Did you tow the mill behind the trailer? ;D ;D ;D
Not mentioning names but others here have actually done that.
No we had two trucks. I have always wanted to do that but here in Oregon they frown on that.
You can do that if your trailer is a goose neck and you have the appropriate driver's license certifications.
Quote from: KirkD on January 10, 2016, 12:09:46 PM
Ok is this part of the shake attachment or?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41311/IMG_2468.JPG)
On the left side of your trailer you've got a shingle/lap siding fixture. To make siding you clamp a cant into the fixture. The lever tilts the cant to one side. To make singles, you clamp individual shingle-wide blocks into the fixture -- one block per clamp. The lever raises and lowers one end of all the blocks simultaneously.
On the right side of your trailers is a resaw unit. Clamp the fixture to the bed of your mill. Clamp the carriage to the rails (there should be a couple of stops that clamp on the top rail). Plug your carriage feed wire into the 12 V motor on the fixture (the fixture includes a set of plugs that you can splice into your carriage feed wire so it can plug into the sawmill or the fixture). Use the carriage speed control to set your resaw attachment to the correct speed, set the saw height to whatever thickness you want, then feed boards into the attachment. Works best with someone on each side of the carriage.
I'm pretty sure you can tilt the resaw so you can make beveled siding as well.
Quote from: Brucer on January 10, 2016, 03:59:59 PM
Quote from: KirkD on January 10, 2016, 12:09:46 PM
Ok is this part of the shake attachment or?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41311/IMG_2468.JPG)
On the left side of your trailer you've got a shingle/lap siding fixture. To make siding you clamp a cant into the fixture. The lever tilts the cant to one side. To make singles, you clamp individual shingle-wide blocks into the fixture -- one block per clamp. The lever raises and lowers one end of all the blocks simultaneously.
On the right side of your trailers is a resaw unit. Clamp the fixture to the bed of your mill. Clamp the carriage to the rails (there should be a couple of stops that clamp on the top rail). Plug your carriage feed wire into the 12 V motor on the fixture (the fixture includes a set of plugs that you can splice into your carriage feed wire so it can plug into the sawmill or the fixture). Use the carriage speed control to set your resaw attachment to the correct speed, set the saw height to whatever thickness you want, then feed boards into the attachment. Works best with someone on each side of the carriage.
I'm pretty sure you can tilt the resaw so you can make beveled siding as well.
Thank you Bruce, Where "if" they had used the resaw on it would the plug in for it be on the saw?
Quote from: KirkD on January 10, 2016, 12:09:46 PM
It was converted to electric but I am going back to gas for my application.
I'd go with diesel if I could find an engine at the right price and the mill head could handle the extra weight.
Did I miss it ? Whats the Measurements ? ? ?
Quote from: red on January 11, 2016, 05:48:47 AM
Did I miss it ? Whats the Measurements ? ? ?
It ended up being 72" and would have fit on the trailer but am glad we did it the way we did.
Looks good, I see a lot of elbow grease in your future but it will be all worth it. If don't mind me asking how much? 8)
Quote from: larrydown60 on January 11, 2016, 08:25:57 PM
Looks good, I see a lot of elbow grease in your future but it will be all worth it. If don't mind me asking how much? 8)
5k for all of it, did I pay to much?
I think it's all worth it. Nice keep pics coming on your progress
Quote from: KirkD on January 11, 2016, 08:54:14 PM
5k for all of it, did I pay to much?
You otta thrown in jail or isn't stealing illegal Oregon?