Slabber vs bandsaw mill?

[boonesyard]

I have 2 LT70 band mills and neither of them is the wide head. I also have the 76" Lucus dedicated slabber. I use the band mills when the log fits through the throat and the Lucus when it don't. With all the talk about flatter cuts VS. thinner kerf, I feel it is a mute point. When drying these big slabs they are going to move some. A 1/4" cup on a 24" wide slab is more than double the problem on a 48". I put several thousand pounds of weight on top of the slabs and they still move when drying. When it comes to the speed of the mills. I don't think that should factor in either. You will spend more time handling the log and slabs than you will cutting.

Totally agree. If it fits through my 50 wide head, that's where it goes. If it's bigger, I'm a gluten for punishment and cut them with my 3120 Husky and Granberg. It cuts a lot flatter than the big slabs will dry. I've got over 4,000lbs of granite on a lift of large white oak slabs, air drying in a shed with just the right air flow and out of the sun, and THEY WILL MOVE,,,period. There will almost always be more large slab loss in flattening after dried than in milling.

[NZJake]

Just thought I would share new detail of our updated slabber design, available with automated feed, as in the video or by hand-crank. Our frame allows easy access and removal of the slabs.

AUTOMATED SLABBER - YouTube

[Stephen1]

I like the looks of it Jake. Nice work
If the log doesn't fit on my wide head and I can't convince the customer to let me book match them, meaning take a slice or 2 and turn it 90 degrees and then slab it down. 
I load it on my trailer and take it down the road to my buddy who has widened his old WM to 52" He will slab what ever I bring him at a reasonable cost. I can also take it the other way to my buddy with the peterson slabber. His set up cost is pricey,  kind of makes it only worth it on walnut. 

[Drebs]

Wow thanks guys I'm looking at 3 more machines now I didn't know I had an option in... also thanks for all the information the input will most certainly help me make and factor into my decision.

that automated turbo saw Jake's posted looks amazing.. those of you who stated that it's gonna have to be flattened after it's dried anyways is something I am completely aware of.. that being said if I'm comparing equal prices ... or not, either way since it has to be flattered after cutting and since I will have a slabmizer for that. What would be the advantage in getting a Lucas or TURBOSAW type mill seems it would simply be slower cutting and more expensive chains (baileys quoted me $106 per chain) I do get that the cut is flatter but if I'm already going to have movement from drying and I'm already going to put it on the wood mizer to flatten am I really going to see the value in slower cuts for flatter cuts? I'm assuming if you slow the band mill down a bit those walks go out the window.

Yes if my only job was to cut all day every day and I never wanted to lose any product from a walking of the blade I could see how the Lucas type mill would keep you from doing that but I'm also doing installs and finishing and running to jobs so if I can saw 3 logs in 4 hours versus 3 logs and 8 hours that's a huge thing.
Also portability is not a factor I have the moving equipment to bring all the logs to me also where I live 42" is about as big as it gets :( .. Texas plains 


Any advice on the advantages over the Lucas, or auto TURBOSAWMILL type setup over a band mill, short of price, given that I will already have a slabmizer I would be very grateful for

[Walnut Beast]

Portability is the big difference 

[customsawyer]

Just thought I would share new detail of our updated slabber design, available with automated feed, as in the video or by hand-crank. Our frame allows easy access and removal of the slabs.

AUTOMATED SLABBER - YouTube

In watching this video I saw a silver square tube sticking up by the lube jug, with a foot on the bottom. I'm assuming that it is to ride on top of the slab to minimize the out side end of the bar movement. If that is the case, why wasn't it used?
One of the main advantages of the Lucus I have is the width. I don't know of a small band mill that will cut 76".

[NZJake]

To be honest, it was just a little over-engineering. We supply it as standard as you never know what kind of scenario may require it. 

In every situation we've tested, it has not been required. The slabber sits cantilevered out quite a bit, for some, it would be hard to get your head around the rigidity at the nose. So for those with this question in mind we have that little device.

We have found that the smaller manual beam and its tensioner fitted to the post upright slider, under the beam make it very strong at the nose. 

The automated heavy-duty beam is even stronger.

[Drebs]

What would be the advantage in getting a Lucas or TURBOSAW type mill seems it would simply be slower cutting and more expensive chains (baileys quoted me $106 per chain) I do get that the cut is flatter but if I'm already going to have movement from drying and I'm already going to put it on the wood mizer to flatten am I really going to see the value in slower cuts for flatter cuts? I'm assuming if you slow the band mill down a bit those walks go out the window. 

Yes if my only job was to cut all day every day and I never wanted to lose any product from a walking of the blade I could see how the Lucas type mill would keep you from doing that but I'm also doing installs and finishing and running to jobs so if I can saw 3 logs in 4 hours versus 3 logs and 8 hours that's a huge thing. 
Also portability is not a factor I have the moving equipment to bring all the logs to me also where I live 42" is about as big as it gets 

 .. Texas plains 


Any advice on the advantages over the Lucas, or auto TURBOSAWMILL type setup over a band mill, short of price ? 

[NZJake]

Hi,

From our perspective the Turbosawmill slabber offers these advantages:

1) Open access for easy loading and slab retrieval.
2) Angled bar for more efficient sawing. Gradual entry. Gradual exit. No chain flick.
3) Medium RPM (5500), quick cutting with better utilization of hp/torque without increased bar wear (other mills run around 3600 or 6000+).
4) The monorail means we can easily offer an automated feed or an easy hand-crank system for feeding the saw. This is crucial from my experience.
5) Log taper alignment.
6) Extend to any length with the addition of extra legs and more track.

I used to file the chain but recently started using a Dremel with chainsaw fitting. So easy now! There are only around 10-20 teeth. I have also found simply by taking 1/2mm off the rakes from standard the chain cuts A LOT quicker. The standard rake length produces dust and is slow to feed. We use the RX27 chain. We also run with water along with oil to help lubricate the cut.

The advantage over a bandsaw:
1) MUCH lower initial investment cost.
2) Portable.
3) Less cost to run over a Bandsaw (chain will last much longer).
4) Easier to sharpen (takes a few minutes on the saw using a Dremel).
5) It's not fussy between different timbers.
6) Consistently true cuts. The band goes dull, you waste a couple of potentially high-value slabs. The slabber simply starts producing dust and is harder to feed.

Later you could purchase a hobby mill head with a few frame upgrades and planer head to plane your slabs for almost final finish once dried (also using the circular blade to edge and cut timber):

The incredible multi-purpose Hobby mill. - YouTube

[DR Buck]

Any advice on the advantages over the Lucas, or auto TURBOSAWMILL type setup over a band mill, short of price ?

You're not going to cut 60" wide slabs on a band mill.    My wide head Woodmizer is limited to 32 inches.   My Lucas slabber will do 60"

And, they are both portable.

[Drebs]

Any advice on the advantages over the Lucas, or auto TURBOSAWMILL type setup over a band mill, short of price ?

You're not going to cut 60" wide slabs on a band mill.    My wide head Woodmizer is limited to 32 inches.   My Lucas slabber will do 60"

And, they are both portable.

I'm not going to come across any 60" in my area anyway most avg 20-24" big is 30-40" the ez board walk is 50" between guide is plenty for me so again portability and anything over 50" is a non factor for me 

[Drebs]

Hi,

From our perspective the Turbosawmill slabber offers these advantages:

1) Open access for easy loading and slab retrieval.
2) Angled bar for more efficient sawing. Gradual entry. Gradual exit. No chain flick.
3) Medium RPM (5500), quick cutting with better utilization of hp/torque without increased bar wear (other mills run around 3600 or 6000+).
4) The monorail means we can easily offer an automated feed or an easy hand-crank system for feeding the saw. This is crucial from my experience.
5) Log taper alignment.
6) Extend to any length with the addition of extra legs and more track.

I used to file the chain but recently started using a Dremel with chainsaw fitting. So easy now! There are only around 10-20 teeth. I have also found simply by taking 1/2mm off the rakes from standard the chain cuts A LOT quicker. The standard rake length produces dust and is slow to feed. We use the RX27 chain. We also run with water along with oil to help lubricate the cut.

The advantage over a bandsaw:
1) MUCH lower initial investment cost.
2) Portable.
3) Less cost to run over a Bandsaw (chain will last much longer).
4) Easier to sharpen (takes a few minutes on the saw using a Dremel).
5) It's not fussy between different timbers.
6) Consistently true cuts. The band goes dull, you waste a couple of potentially high-value slabs. The slabber simply starts producing dust and is harder to feed.

Later you could purchase a hobby mill head with a few frame upgrades and planer head to plane your slabs for almost final finish once dried (also using the circular blade to edge and cut timber):

The incredible multi-purpose Hobby mill. - YouTube

Jake you tweaked my ear at the planer attachment this would eliminate my need for a slabmizer from woodmizer my concern is I'm in a field at my cutting location.. woodmizer was going to go at the shop. 
My concern with a planer blade on this type of set up is everyone I've seen will cut a log in half then use that as the "table top" to flatten a slab on, I have customers who sometimes one is Slab Flatland and I would like a true reference table underneath it to throw the slab on and flatten it not having to get a log cut in half and use that as my top... 
sounds like we might need to talk on the phone but if I can get a level concrete pad underneath it I wonder if I could get a welded metal table to set that slab on where it's always true and flat to the planer

[Walnut Beast]

Nebraska on here is really pleased with his Boardwalk 👍

[John S]

The 60 inch capacity does not just apply to log diameter.  I have customers who want wide crotch pieces that are extremely valuable.

[NZJake]

Personally I feel the slab supports offered on some of these surfacers are well over designed. There is enough strength typically in the slab itself to support against vibration etc. Just needs a few screws to hold it down during processing. 

In saying that you could certainly fabricate/build a simple bed pretty easy if thats what you need. 

[Hilltop366]

In saying that you could certainly fabricate/build a simple bed pretty easy if thats what you need.

Possible idea....
The table could be made with wood or wooden top with deeply counter sunk fasteners then you can true it up with the planer blade, mark where the feet go so you can place it back in the same spot. Tune up as required. Easy to check by running the blade over it (not turning).

[Walnut Beast]

There are a lot of pluses and drawbacks to slabbers and bandsaws. I have experience on both. Unlike a lot of guys who just cut their slabs and sell them, I build finished furniture out of mine. Outside of cutting the trees down, I do everything in house. Unfortunately the myth that you're going to save a lot more material and money with a bandsaw because of the kerf is one I see repeated far too often. Yes, your average bandsaw has a 1/8" kerf while a slabber has a 3/8" kerf. Unlike a slabber, a bandsaw can get wavy in the cut, especially as the blade guides get further apart. It's not the fault of the machine, it's just the methodology. Most bandsaws are only running a 1.25" blade so they're going to flex and wave a bit in the cut, especially with knots and defects. It's basic physics. Obviously a rigid 3/8" slabber bar isn't going to do that, but it's going to cut slower. I've cut thousands of slabs on my slabber, and had the opportunity to put a wide cut bandsaw through the paces. What I noticed is the slabs cut on the bandsaw have wave that need to be surfaced out. Because I'm building finished furniture out of mine, they need to be flattened after they come out of the kiln. If I was just flipping them down the road and I didn't care about the rest of the work, that would be one thing. But mine need to be dead flat after drying which is done either on my CNC router or my Lucas 827 swing blade with the planer attachment. So while you might save on the kerf and the speed on the cutting, you'll have to spend a lot more time surfacing it flat to get rid of the wave on the backend. In the end the whole argument of kerf becomes mute. You're comparing six of one to half a dozen of the other. If you're doing everything from the cutting to the drying to the finished furniture in house like I am, the argument doesn't hold a lot of weight. I would rather have dead flat slabs coming off the mill. There are enough issues to deal with in drying slabs, like cupping and warping that need to be surfaced out without adding waves. At the end of the day it all boils down to time and money.

One thing you'll have to keep in mind about cutting with a bandsaw versus a slabber is that if you encounter any metal or foreign debris, you'll have to stop and change the bandsaw blade immediately. With the slabber you can typically finish the cut. With the bandsaw if you try to ram it forward it will climb and dive all over the place and ruin the slab. I've cut through a dozen nails with a slabber in one pass on 32" walnut and it still cut a dead flat slab. You can't do that with a bandsaw.

In the end I think both have their pluses and minuses, but after a decade of owning my slabber it would be my single tool of choice.

That's exactly why I like the dedicated slabber!