Sawmill Maintenance/Repairs

[WV Sawmiller]

   I may have to try that little angled fitting. Mine screws into the standard 3/4"hose bibb on the jug and does want to kink the hose a bit. That plus I lost the little air vent cap years ago so I have a whittled off peg in there so the air does not flow as well. I used it on some hickory Tuesday and it did not drip well. When I came home I put the hose to it and blew the line out so it should at least be clearer now. 

   I don't use mine much when sawing tulip poplar or such. I use it for pine, spruce, hemlock, hickory and oak.

[Magicman]

That 90° fitting is an RV accessory.  I use the quick connect fittings to eliminate screwing and also they swivel. 

[SawyerTed]

UPS delivered a new motor control module/H bridge.  

This device takes the input from the drum switches and sends the higher current to the up/down and forward/reverse motors.   

The new unit came with instructions for a dozen checks to make sure battery connections, solenoid connections and ground connections are all clean and firmly connected.   Even though I went through them last week trying to eliminate the problem, I went through them again per Wood-Mizer's instructions.  There were no issues with the dozen or so items checked.  I even checked the brushes in the fwd/rev motor even though the mill is only just over a year old.  Woodmizer replaced the H bridge, so doing the checks were sort of my obligation I suppose.  

So I removed the old and installed the new H bridge.  It took a large screwdriver to open the box, small screwdriver, a 7/16 socket and a 1/2" socket and 15 minutes to do the swap.   

Success!  The mill is back!  I cut part of the red oak I loaded on the mill last week.  

[Magicman]

My lube pump was still dripping so it got replaced this morning.


It's more than a simple notion to replace because the mounting plate with the pump attached has to be removed first.  Two nuts for the mounting plate and then the 4 that attach the pump to the plate.  That red check valve seen above is simply a "dummy".  It quit checking and it was simpler to leave it in place than to remove it.  


My working check valve is zip tied to the wiring harness below the engine and behind the Debarker.  If/when it fails, replacing it will be a simple matter. 

 
My newly installed lube pump is up and running. 

I'll have to investigate to see why the other pump was leaking. 

[Magicman]

I learned more about the newer vintage lube pump.  There is a keeper that slides back and releases the O ring equipped barb fitting on both the inlet and outlet.  I removed and replaced them looking for something wrong and now even under pressure I did not detect a leak so I suppose that the outlet side had the seep.  The keeper was not loose on either side.

I actually have two spare pumps so I am toying with the idea of using one as a "lift pump" to fill the lube jug.  I have had a similar setup in the past so I think that I am going in circles....again.    

[Magicman]

My idle side blade wheel has been growling for about the past week.  No emergency, just when I finish this job it will be replaced.  I have a new bearing ready and waiting.

https://youtu.be/6-HH3QkDJHs

[barbender]

Magic, does your idle wheel have the original wheel with two seperate bearings, or the updated wheel with he much larger, single bearing? I finally updated mine, I went through several sets of bearings on the old wheel. Then the bore got kind of swallowed out, so I had to set the bearings in a "gap filler" that is similar to thread locker. So they were kinda cemented in, so when those bearings went belly up, it was time for the new wheel.

[Magicman]

Mine came with the single bearing.  This will be my third time to replace the bearing, the last only about 3 years ago, but no maintenance concerns me.  Just replace what is out of whack and keep on keeping on. 

Mine is a 5309-2RS Part #016014 @ $50.48 and as I mentioned, I have one new-in-the-box, so I will do the replacement when I get the sawmill home.  A hex head screw, washer, snap ring, and then press the old one out and the new one in.  (pages 3-4 & 3-5 in the book)

[WV Sawmiller]

   I mentioned it in another thread but the mounting on the tray that holds my fuel tank broke so I removed it and had it weld repaired and reinstalled it today. The repair looks good and I should bein good shape there for another 10+ years. Now I am chasing why my drive belt has been jumping off when I release the tension. It stayed on the last 2-3 times I disengaged so I need to run some test logs to see if it is fixed or not.

[Machinebuilder]

I have used bearing retaining compound on a few things. I think it was Loctite 660, used properly it is a good solution.

 I learned a couple lessons

1  DO NOT use it on the housing and the shaft.
2  Heat will loosen the bearing and the shaft when you do.

[Dave Shepard]

Replacing that lube pump is about the worst thing to work on. I feel it could have been designed much better. I have to do something about mine soon. I really don't use lube, but I want it to work properly, and I don't want to fiddle with little bolts when it's cold out.

[Magicman]

Had I been here at home, I would have used longer bolts (actually screws) and added a jam nut on the pump side.  That way the pump could easily come out without removing that mounting plate.  

Moving that 3psi check valve was a good move.

[TimW]

I was sawing 2 ten foot 8x8s for my timber frame house mod customer.  Got one cut when the Yanmar started sputtering slightly.  Got the side lumber finished cutting after one log and quit for the day.

Next day, I didn't cut side lumber and just went for the 8x8.  After each cut, I shut down and turned the log and got ready for the next cut on electrics. I cut the 8x8 before the Yanmar started sputtering.

I was able to saw 3 of the 4 slabs into 2x4s before the sputtering became too much.

Friday I returned the mill to the Yanmar dealer, telling him the crank sensor's connector slides side ways 1/4 inch.  Hope to hear from them tomorrow.

[SawyerTed]

Sure wish they'd get that Yanmar straightened out once and for all!  I'm sure not as much as you do, but maybe they'll get it right this time!  

[WV Sawmiller]

Tim,

   I think you need to set up a visitation schedule for when you are allowed to go visit with your engine since it seems it stays in the shop more than it does on your mill.

[TimW]

Howard,
     I had her for 12.5 hours.   But I want more. 

[TimW]

Sure wish they'd get that Yanmar straightened out once and for all!  I'm sure not as much as you do, but maybe they'll get it right this time! 

At least we (they) are narrowing it down to speed related issues between the cam and crank sensors.  Found out Monday, if the cam and crank sensors don't agree........sputtering.  As they say on that fabulous TV show.........Because of Roadkill.
  As of now, I know 3 of their techs by first names.

[TimW]

Well, the woeful tell continues.  Last week the Yanmar shop said it was in the wiring.  Friday, they replaced a connector.  No help.  Now the Yanmar shop wants to talk to Woodmizer tech support.  I haven't heard anything since I texted them to talk to Dennis at WM.

I am ready to buy a new YANMAR 3TNV88C-DYEM and keep my old one as a spare.  Just swap all the wiring harness and components out when I want to change engines.  Simple.  I see them online from $8200 up to $8900 

Woodmizer wants $12,537 and my original diesel engine has to be destroyed for WM to get a replacement engine per EPA Regulations by the US GOVERNMENT.

My Yanmar service shop guy was in meetings this afternoon, so I hope to talk to him tomorrow.
Did I say TIER IV is a 4 letter word?

[WV Sawmiller]

    THAT'S CRAZY! 

    I'm gonna start hoarding my plastic straws!

    Good luck. Keep us posted.

[TimW]

No Howard, crazy is a 5 letter word.
You need to hoard those plastic thingies that hold coke and beer cans together, also.

[barbender]

 This is exactly the kind of nightmare that keeps me away from tier lV engines. 

 The EPA should've had to establish an insurance fund for when people's engines leave them high, dry and out thousands of $$$🤬

[Magicman]

Out of curiosity, I was searching engines last evening.  One would assume that a direct replacement for an older engine would be a simple matter.  The new engines that I saw were all T4's. 

I haven't been able to find replacement engines on Wood-Mizer's new website but the last one that I saw listed a replacement for my sawmill/engine @$18,000.  Yikes, I suppose because of the control panel, etc.  Thankfully I am not needing a new engine, but if a reasonably priced one became available, I probably might buy it for a spare.  I do have access to a Kubota engine that I am sure could be adapted but that ain't happening as long as I am running.  

My present aspirated Diesel engine only has 2145 hours so that should easily complete my sawing "career".  I miss my turbo, but it is what it is.

[TimW]

WM Dennis let me know today that Yanmar that WM had for sale ($5000) is still there.  It is not on the website and some parts have been robbed off of it.  He will let me know ASAP what has been robbed off of it.

My Yanmar shop had another lead to chase on the engine involving return fuel pressure with some spring in the system.

I've got enough to keep me busy.  But soon I will run out of lumber I have on hand for the sawmill shed.  All the poles are ready to set.  All I need is a pallet of concrete.

The gooseneck came home yesterday after hitch coupler R&R.  So tomorrow is a concrete run to Lowes.

[Magicman]

Tim, I hope that they can soon find the glitch in your engine and get you back to sawing.

Barbender and I have discussed that used Yanmar engine from Wood-Mizer and when it disappeared from the website, I figured that it had sold.  I considered buying it and if I was in the need for an engine, it would be mine.

[SawyerTed]

Yanmars are notorious for sputtering due to diesel return line issues.   Maybe it will be an easy but overlooked solution.   

I sure hope they find it soon!