Help for aging woodcutters

[Wlmedley]

Every year it gets a little harder to get my firewood cut and stacked. Up until about 10 years ago I split all of my wood with a monster maul and always said if I had to buy a wood splitter I would just quit. Started having trouble with my right shoulder but I figured splitting wood would probably be good for it. Doctor informed me that it wasn't good for it at this point and I would eventually need a complete shoulder replacement but to put it off as long as possible. Needless to say I had to eat my words and buy a splitter. My splitter will work either vertically or horizontal but I always use it vertically. It's been getting harder and harder to get rounds over to splitter and my back pays the price. Today I finally got smart and got out a two wheel dolly that I have had for years . This helps a lot and I don't know why I didn't think of it before. Now I'm debating about a little lighter chainsaw. I've been using a 372 Husqvarna for 25 years and it doesn't owe me anything but it still runs good and I'm not one to waste money but it seems to be gaining weight. Wondering how some of you fellas are compensating while getting older. I didn't think it would happen to me.

[Magicman]

Yes, Birthdays will make it happen. 

I am not familiar with Husky, but I dropped down to a 50cc Stihl pro saw because it is lighter plus it has a decompression valve.

[beenthere]

Yes, birthdays do enter into the equation, but it is different for each person. 
Go at a pace where you feel best, and forget the age you are at. It's more about enjoying what you like to do in life, not what you have to do. 

[Wlmedley]

MM , My 372 is a 72cc saw and probably a little overkill for what I do but I really enjoy the power that it has. I'd hate to go back to a homeowner style saw and was thinking maybe the newer pro style saws might have lightened up a little bit. I guess I should do a little research. Beenthere, you're right. I know people younger than me who are in worse shape and people older who are in better shape than me. I've always loved working outside cutting wood and that sort of thing and would like to continue as long as possible. I really like it when someone says "how did that old man do that ".

[Ianab]

I'd keep the 372 for when you really need it, or just bucking logs where you only have to heft the saw onto the log, and let it's weight cut through. Where a small saw comes on handy is limbing and cutting smaller stuff. Much lighter to wave around for all those awkward cuts. 

I agree with MM, get a Good ~50cc saw with a shorter / lighter bar. You will probably find you use it more often than the bigger saw, but you still have the 372 for jobs that actually need that. 

I've still got my 80 and 60 cc saws, but if I was doing more cutting I'd be looking for a smaller / lighter 3rd saw. 

[SwampDonkey]

I like my 55 cc Husqvarna 555 xp, it's not a home owner saw as it's more metal and has decompression. I only use a 16" bar as I am in a younger forest, so I might cut an aspen that is 30" across the stump now and again. Most larger stuff I'm in would be 20"-24" aspen and fir on the stump. My hardwood is small and I cut the trail and damaged ones and thin spots out that are a little tight. Spread the work out more, don't try to do it all this week. Work half days to. ;)

[thecfarm]

I use a husky 450, that is a 50 cc, about 20 more then cc my 372.
Yes, the 372 will got more wood faster then the 450, but the 372 wears me out faster too.
I ran that RS yellow chain and that helps out on the fastness, if it matters to you.
I like the chain because when I hit a rock with it, I can bring it back in almost one sharping.
Other chains takes me 3-4 times and then by then I might hit another rock. I cut my stumps very low to the ground. I am clearing back places I want to mow.
I use that 450 just about all the time now.
But most of the times the bar is buried, it's in EWP,. Not like I am cutting hardwood over 18 inches.
Go buy a 50cc saw and your body will thank you.
Or your money back. 
When I first got a 50cc saw it felt like a toy.

[TreefarmerNN]

Age has also caught up to me so I compensate some by doing the following.

I quit when I'm tired or my back hurt unless I'm working on a tree that just has to be cut up because it's in the road or across a fence.  I've got a lot more chance of getting hurt when I'm tired. 

When possible, I'll use the tractor to lift sections of log to a comfortable height to cut to length.  I can run a saw a lot longer at waist height than either higher or lower.  There's less chance of running the saw into dirt as well as I can see if mud has stuck to the log.

If you have been using a Monster Maul, buy a Fiskars splitting axe and try it.  I'd give up firewood if I had to use a Monster Maul again.  Even with your powered splitter, I'd get a Fiskars and use it on those nice straight grain pieces, perhaps to make them lighter to lift.

Consider making an infeed table for the splitter and if you have a tractor and FEL, use that to lift the pieces to splitting height.  Then you can just roll them onto the splitter which will be close to waist height.  It makes taking the split pieces off the splitter easier as well.

I store my split wood in bulk totes.  Once split, the totes are covered and moved with the tractor instead of hand carrying stuff into a barn or shed, then in my truck or trailer and brought to my house.  Cut, split, into the tote, set on a little trailer and the next time I touch it is to put it in the stove.

[g_man]

I run a 50 cc saw most of the time too. An old Husky 346 XP with a 16" bar and a decompress now on it's second life. Excellent light saw. My son has a 550 XP MII that is light also but it has no decompress. That is a lot tougher on the bones to start at times.

gg

[Tom K]

I have 4 saws ranging from 35cc to 72cc, typically I will grab the lightest saw that will get the job done. I put more hours a year on my 35cc & 50cc saws than I do on my 60cc & 72cc saws by far, and I'm still relatively youngish at 43. My 50cc is my most used saw, followed by the 35cc, then 60cc, and the 72cc is the least used.

I don't see any sense in wearing your body out when you don't have to, which is why I've never liked the monster mauls either. I picked up a Fiskar splitting axe a few years ago and haven't used a heavier maul since.

[Old Greenhorn]

If it hurts when you do that...Don't do that. Or at least do it as little as possible.

First, yes, smaller saw will help, I run either a 350 or a 450 except for the big stuff when I take out the 562 with 24" bar. The 372 is rarely used.

Second, minimize bending. Get yourself a pickerooon about 18" long. I use that for dragging, positioning, and lifting. Smaller stuff you can just stick and lift, larger stuff you stick one end and grab the other with your hand. This avoids that last 6-12" of bending all the way to the ground and makes a huge difference.

Anything you can do to get the logs up off the ground for bucking is a huge help too. I don't have a machine, but I like bucking logs in the stack, then it is only half a lift to the splitter. Also, I rarely run my splitter vertical because it means I have to pick up every piece of wood from the ground (again, use the pickeroon).

Remove any unnecessary handling steps. If you parked your splitter in front of your woodshed and ran it horizontal, you could take the split wood right off the splitter and throw it on the stack. When I do this, it is by far the fastest and easiest.

All the prior suggestions are helpful too. Pick what works for you, but that pickeroon was a game changer for me. I'd add my +2 on the fiskars splitting axe. For a lot of smaller wood (one split) it goes some much fast than picking it up and putting it through the splitter. Much easier on the back than a maul, and especially a monster maul, which I have never owned..

Now if you'll excuse me, I have to shower and get off to my Chiropractor for a badly needed tune-up. Mushroom logs are killing me this year.

[SwampDonkey]

I work with easier wood as far as splitting. I only have to split aspen and fir mostly and i just use a Collins maul. Very easy wood to split, even easier than ash or white birch. I don't have huge rounds to lift either. If I was in big maple woods I'd probably need to work a little differently and split by machine and probably work something out for the lifting or roll the bucked wood to a vertical splitter using a cant hook or something instead of bending down.

[Hilltop366]

Lower back problems here so working bent over is painful after a short while, 50cc Stihl 261, 36cc Makita, blocking the logs on rear forks on tractor made a huge difference for me also a pickeroon and log lift on splitter. I also reduced handling by loading off of splitter on to pallets then moving pallets with the tractor.

Those vertical/horizontal splitters are usually easy to make a manual log lift or one run from the splitter ram so you can split on the horizontal (not bent over) and not injure your self lifting heavy rounds. Lot of ideas on youtube.

My splitter took a bit more head scratching to get a lift made up because it has a tray on each side of the beam that travels back and forth with the pusher but it was well worth it.

[DDW_OR]

i let the machines do most of the work

my firewood processor
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=85974.msg1316192;topicseen#msg1316192

load the logs with the tractor or excavator with grapple
 

[beenthere]

Age 67 is not old IMO. At 86, I've never been to, or felt a need to see a chiropractor. 
As I see it, age is not the important factor in this game of wood cutting. 
But each year, the combination of many factors will change how we get things done. 

[Mooseherder]

Some people supplement their heating bill with wood.  For others, it may be the only source.  I recommend getting a supplement to wood via a mini split or heat pump. That's what I use when in Maine. Life got a whole lot easier.  These units easily maintain ambient temperature and are very efficient on electricity.  The installation takes one day. I still heat with wood but it's great not having to worry about the stove when you go to bed or start a fire to take out the morning chill. That's gonna be nice down the road as we get older. I average about 2 cords a year and don't care to cut anymore than that. There's too much other stuff needed done.  I'm gonna add a mid size echo this spring.  Most of the poles i use ain't all that anyway.  Something with 16 inch chain perfect. Breakout the bigger stuff as needed,.That's what the dealer close by sells and he also works on my other stuff.  I've got a couple echo and stihl homeowner considered saws that work just fine. Who cares what the 2 cycle oil fiends think.

[thecfarm]

My father did not have a Dr until he was about 65. His only son had to get one at 40. He has lung issues and diabetics, throat trouble, stomach issues, and need I go on.
Some need, some don't. 
Some dig   some don't.  

[trapper]

use a ms2 61 but my ms241 is what  i reach for first  Have a35 cc echo but a little too small for most things but still is a great  saw,  For me  A pulp hook works much better than a  pickerooon . Tip one  end of the wood up grab it and grab the bottom end with the  hook Wanted to get another and bought a couple off amazon but they don't work well.  Any one know where to get a good one.  The logrite  pickerooon  works good for pulling wood down off the pile

[Tim in New York]

Major improvement for me this year was putting forks on my Kubota.  That allowed me to pick up all but the biggest logs, pull them away from the skidding pile a bit, and cut them up at waist height.  Only drawback is moving from one side of the tractor to the other a couple times for each log.  But I was able to work for a couple hrs bucking with little back pain. 

After last year I was not sure I would make it through another season.  But with this new method I may be able to keep cutting a few more years.

[Old Greenhorn]

......  For me  A pulp hook works much better than a  pickerooon . Tip one  end of the wood up grab it and grab the bottom end with the  hook Wanted to get another and bought a couple off amazon but they don't work well.  Any one know where to get a good one.  The logrite  pickerooon  works good for pulling wood down off the pile

I tried pulp hooks with my Mushroom logs with limited success for that grab on one end. I found good ones after many months of searching flea markets for the old stuff. I use my pickeroon several ways. For the large stuff I use it exactly as you describe with your pulp hook, I just choke up on the handle, but for medium and smaller sizes I find I can stab the round (at the midpoint) and swing it right up into position on the splitter. That alone makes thigs go much fast and easier. I use a 16" hook for splitting, I use a 3' hook for dragging mushroom logs and large rounds around as well as reaching an pulling wood out ot the truck bef. I use my 30" Logrite hook at the mill for pulling slabs, etc. We also keep a 30" Logrite on the processor for repositioning rounds that don't fall into the splitter box squarely or other adjustments like snatching out junk pieces. My 18" and 36" are Peavy Co. that I bought before I knew about logright. The short one has a chop blade on the backside which is very handy for hacking off junk. The two 30" hooks are both Logrite.
 Everybody's mileage is different, for me, those hooks save me bending over or bending too far every time I use them, and that's worth a lot to me.

[hedgerow]

Every year it gets a little harder to get my firewood cut and stacked. Up until about 10 years ago I split all of my wood with a monster maul and always said if I had to buy a wood splitter I would just quit. Started having trouble with my right shoulder but I figured splitting wood would probably be good for it. Doctor informed me that it wasn't good for it at this point and I would eventually need a complete shoulder replacement but to put it off as long as possible. Needless to say I had to eat my words and buy a splitter. My splitter will work either vertically or horizontal but I always use it vertically. It's been getting harder and harder to get rounds over to splitter and my back pays the price. Today I finally got smart and got out a two wheel dolly that I have had for years . This helps a lot and I don't know why I didn't think of it before. Now I'm debating about a little lighter chainsaw. I've been using a 372 Husqvarna for 25 years and it doesn't owe me anything but it still runs good and I'm not one to waste money but it seems to be gaining weight. Wondering how some of you fellas are compensating while getting older. I didn't think it would happen to me.

I guess all I can say is yes I have made several changes in our firewood processing . I was burning 10-15 cord of hard wood a year mostly locust and hedge. We buck ever thing at waist high using a skid loader and a grapple no bending over cutting. Have a home made splitter that is waist high plus and it gets loaded with a built in hyd log lift. No bending over. After two shoulder  surgery's I bought two 261's pro Stihl chain saws. So much lighter than the old 461. 

[thecfarm]

I talked to an aging wood cutter today about a small saw.
I think he's going to try it.

[Al_Smith]

About 75 percent of my wood supply is wind blown eab killed ash .Much of it is 6 inch stuff,no splitting ,slice and stack .In the last several years I' m finding a 3 cube saw is a very handy tool . 
I'm done burning wood this season and won't start on next years until about July or August and be done by October .I do however have a big cottonwood that needs processed .That one I'll dig out the big old Paul Bunyan saws ,over100 cc just to give them some exercise .However I'll only going to do  it maybe 2-3 hours a day .After all I'm 77 years old thinking at times I'm still 25 .My mind is lying to me I think .

[Wlmedley]

I stopped by the local saw shop today and picked up some bar and two stroke oil. He sales Husqvarna saws along with several other things. I've been dealing with him for years. I looked at the saws and I think maybe the 550 would be a nice size for what usually cut. I'm thinking a 16 to 18 inch bar . Only thing is it uses a 325 chain but I don't guess that would be a problem. The majority of the firewood I cut is probably around 16". 

[Magicman]

I got an 18" bar on my 50cc MS261 which uses the 325 chain.  It has proven to be a winning combination. 

[newoodguy78]

Wlmedley fwiw I bought a 550xp for my son to use, he loves doing firewood  
I personally run a 372 like yourself. That said the 550 has really impressed me for the size and weight of it and after about a year have had zero issues with it. Got it setup with a 20" bar I'm sure it would cut faster with a shorter one but  have no complaints. Kept sharp it really throws some chips. 
I'll second what the guys are saying about a pulp hook or pickaroon. I personally prefer a pulp hook but can see why some would choose a pickaroon. I think my preference is based on what I grew up with, my father always had a pulp hook around and just got accustomed to it. 
Good luck with what you decide to get. 

[Wlmedley]

NWG,thanks for the info about the saw. That's the saw I'll probably get. I had a 3400 Poulan for about 20 years and when it finally gave up the ghost I bought the 372 and have had it 25 years so I'm about due a new one. I've never had a pulp hook or a pickaroon but I noticed that the saw dealer had some pickaroons on the shelf with different length handles so I might try one. 

[beenthere]

Our sponsor Logrite  also has them. Helps the forum to give them support. 

[barbender]

I had a Stihl ms261cm. It is a nice, smooth little saw. Really smooth and torquey for a 50cc saw. 

I had a Husky 346xp before that. Even though that saw was a lemon, when it ran right I loved it. A lot of power for it's size, it revved high and cut like a light saber😊

I haven't run one of the 550's, but they sound similar to the 346 from what I've read.

Honestly, if I was looking for something that didn't wear me out, I'd lean towards the Stihl 261. You can get it in auto tune or not. Mine was autotune, and it worked flawlessly. With the decompression button, they crank really easy, and the smooth power they make is easy to use without wearing you out- you don't have to keep it revved up all the time, just roll into the throttle and away she goes👍

[doc henderson]

Try to elevate the wood to be cut so you are not bending over and using energy to work in an uncomfortable position.  I made a log holder with roller every 16 inches to cut my firewood round.  often, they stay on top, so I do not bend to pick them up.  then for big rounds I use the bucket or crane with tongs on the track loader to get them on the firewood table.

[Big_eddy]

If you are looking at the 550xp, look at the 545xp as well. Same 50cc, slightly detuned without some XP goodies, an easier pull starter, for a little less money. I got one for my son, and it's a great saw. Seems to have a bit more torque, but a touch less speed than the 550xp, but I've not run them back to back, just different days. @Spike60 can likely add more specifics.

As for your back, I +3/+4/+5 a pickaroon/hookaroon. My personal favourite is the Husqvarna one. I have it, a peavy mfg, and a Logrite, and the Husky has the best feel and best tip design IMO. The Husky handles are not good and you'll end up having to shorten or replace it over time, but the tip design sticks the best and releases easily.

And I'd seriously think about splitting horizontal only. I can't imagine how hard on the back it would be splitting smaller rounds vertically. Maybe set the largest rounds aside, to halve vertically at a different time.

[thecfarm]

Speaking of splitting.
I have not used my splitter in more then 10 years.
I have a OWB and all winter I have burned dead EWP in it. 
I did not cut much hardwood on the meadow last year, but will this year.
I cut some good size EWP, the 18 inch bar will not go all the way through the "log".
Most of the hardwood I cut is not even a 16 inches across.
When I cut on the meadow, most are not more then 16 inches on the stump. Most are a foot across after the stump.
I have been cutting my wood 4-6-8-10 inches wide, depends on the size of the wood.
The pine that is 18 inches gets cuts at 4 inches. It gets loaded into the bucket of the tractor and gets dumped in front of the OWB. Then I use a splitting maul to split if in half and I feed that into the OWB.
The "smaller" stuff maybe only 10 inches long, be it softwood or hardwood.
This seems to work better for me, less handling of the wood.

[Spike60]

Yes, the marketing wisdom when naming the "5" series models. 545, 555, and 565 are all the same displacement as their XP brothers. So Swamper, your 555 is a 60cc saw.    Not much difference noticed between them just cutting firewood. Maybe for the cookie and stop watch crowd. 545 and 550 are saws you can run a long time comfortably.

1st step, and perhaps the hardest when answering the original question is admitting that you need to adjust what you're doing in order to keep doing it. And while many of you have some great options equipment wise, I think most of us need to make those adjustments without a major investment. A lighter chainsaw is far more accessible than buying a tractor with a grapple.

For me, the simplest change is to take things in smaller bites. When splitting. I'll run 1 tank of fuel  through the splitter, vs finish the pile. Or maybe say I'm gonna go play on the wood pile for an hour, rather than all afternoon. If you don't overdue it, it's good exercise. No need to wear yourself out.

The other thing for me is to avoid lifting big heavy rounds, so I'll often split or rip them in half or quarters. Still need a big saw for that, for which I have a Jonsered 820 with 20" bar nicknamed "jack the ripper". A big saw doesn't feel so big in that role. It's when swinging a big saw to limb and break down tops that the weight can really bother you.

This is a great discussion though. Lots of good input from everybody.

[thecfarm]

Spike60, is right with a big saw limbing and doing the tops.
I push my trees, no limbs up into a pile. 
Then I cut the wood as needed.
I am usually no more then a cord ahead at any time through the winter months.
That's why I bought a OWB.
I had a woodstove in the house and had to get ahead on wood.
Now I cut as I need.
But still no all day sawing is needed for me. Well sawing it up for firewood. 
I may cut in the meadow for a day or cut dead EWP for a day. But that EWP means a lot of limbs to be cleaned up too and most times smaller stuff that the EWP might of knocked down due to a wind storm.
I used my small saw all last year, even cutting down some big EWP, but that is softwood and easy to cut.

[SwampDonkey]

Mines this model, and your right almost 60 cc. Although technically 59.8 cc, so my brain was thinking 55cc. 

https://www.husqvarna.com/ca-en/chainsaws/555-mp-125560603

Great saw, I wouldn't go any lower in class. I've had those lower models like the 545, never liked it.  

[barbender]

Ray, are you saying you cut the big logs in short rounds, like 4", and then split them? That's the solution I've come to on those big hogs that won't feed through the firewood processor and seem to pile up all over  the woodyard. Even as big cookies, they're too big to go through the door of the OWB so they get split once. Then they look like giant wooden Woodruff keys😊

I'm looking at 50 here shortly. I'm a little bit sliwer and stiffer then I used to be. I'm told this won't get better by those have went this way before me😊 

I split quite a bit of wood, probably 80 cords a year. The firewood processor has made that much easier obviously. But to me, the biggest thing is, don't keep letting the wood hit the ground if you don't have to. It's the bending over and lifting that gets me. So if you have a tractor or other front end loader, maybe take the time to build yourself some work savers that keep you from having to lift. 

I think it is DDW Oregon that has the tagline, "let the machines do the work". That one sticks in my head and I remind myself of this kind of thing all the time. I only have one body and it is way easier and cheaper to fix machines. 

Build yourself a cutting table of some sort. Get the log on the table, buck it into firewood lengths, and it sits their and waits for you instead of you having to compete with gravity for them. Roll it over, or lift it over at waist height, to your splitter.

Another thing I've been experimenting with, that I can't run through the processor efficiently (I've tried😁) is sawmill slabs. What I'm working on now is pallets that I've modified, so I can put a bundle of slabs on them and cut them to length. Then the pallet is picked up with the skid loader and carried to the next stage. 

Anything to keep from having to pick stuff up off of the ground.

[newoodguy78]

Barbender you're correct in thinking the 346 is very close to the 550. I replaced my 346 with the 550. If anything the 550 might have a little more zip but not a lot. 
Wlmedley if you get closer to buying one take a close look at what you want for a bar length. 
When I bought mine the price difference between a 545 and 550 was the cost of a 20" b&c and I believe a 16" b&c. Like was mentioned above looking at the tag the saws are pretty much identical. I opted for the 550 because it came setup with what I wanted for a bar. 

[Al_Smith]

I just went through this .325 and 3/8" chain with my neighbor .He was running a Dolmar/Makita of I think 54 cc's with a 16" 3/8" and a seven tooth rim .I had 40 year old Partner 5000 plus,49 cc  with a 16" .325 ,8 pin rim ..Smoked him .IMO the 3 cubers do better running the smaller chains but that's just an opinion .I might also add those tests were in both cottonwood and hard as a rock dead ash .Both chains were chisel .
I might addtionaly add speed isn't every thing .He's 52 and I'm 77 at the end of the more than likely he'd have more done than me,I gotta rest more often you know .

[hedgerow]

For me, the simplest change is to take things in smaller bites. When splitting. I'll run 1 tank of fuel  through the splitter, vs finish the pile. Or maybe say I'm gonna go play on the wood pile for an hour, rather than all afternoon. If you don't overdue it, it's good exercise. No need to wear yourself out

This is a great discussion though. Lots of good input from everybody.

This doesn't work for my firewood operation as my splitter has a ten gallon gas tank on it. I never say to my helpers we'll take a break when the splitter runs out of gas. 

[doc henderson]

my uncle Jerry has passed, but he still cut firewood as he got older, and often with younger friends and neighbors.  He would work till his saw ran out of gas.  One of his friends' younger sons realized jerry was not filling his saw full and told his dad.  they got a good laugh, and his son was told that Jerry could fill his saw as full as he wanted.  less time between breaks.

[Magicman]

Not chainsaw, but I have learned to keep a half 5 gallon jug of Diesel for the sawmill engine refill.  It much easier to lift 2 1/2 gallons and when empty, half fill it again from a full can.

When all 3 jugs are empty, I get two full and one half full. 

[Wlmedley]

Although I'm not nearly as frugal as I used to be before I retired most of the things I do have to make economic sense for me to feel good about doing them. I remember back in the 70s everyone was getting into the firewood craze and some spending more than they would probably ever save on heating. Example, new 4 wheel drive pickup,several new back glasses, saw ,splitter,stove ect. Then found out it was harder than they thought it would be and quit after a couple years. Where I live I've always had to have a chainsaw just to clear the land where I built my house and several outbuildings,garden space ect and sometimes to get fallen trees out of the road so I can get out. Now I need one for cutting trees to mill also. I don't have a front loader on my small tractor but I'm thinking about making some forks for the three point hitch. I used to cut and split in the woods where the tree was dropped but we don't have a lot of flat ground and it was sometimes a pain. I figure that over the years I have saved several thousand dollars on my heating bill and mostly enjoyed doing it. I'm pretty sure I'm way ahead when figuring costs versus savings and I'd feel better if I can keep it that way. I see a lot of people around here complaining about how much it costs to heat their house and have trees all around them and some in danger of trees falling on the house. I'm in the process of making sure none can fall on any of my buildings while I'm still able to cut them plus stay warm for a few more winters . Thanks for everyone's input. It helps more than you'll ever know.

[Wlmedley]

Doc,that's a pretty good idea. I could maybe just put a little bit of gas in my saw and splitter. My luck I'd forget about bar oil and burn my bar up 

[thecfarm]

I sat down with a cup of coffee to answer you and the power went out. It was a planned outage, they said we might be without power around 11-3. 
So I took a nap instead. 
Coffee was cold, had to heat that back up. 
I woke up and the power was on.
Yes, you are right about a woodruff key.
Starts out like an "O" ends up like a "D". 
I only split a couple at a time. No need to wear out my body splitting 4-5 at a time. 

[barbender]

I don't know what the chain was called that came stock on my Husky 346xp, but it was narrow kerf .325. Oregon 95vp? I think they've changed the name of it, and if you bought a new Husky it would have their version anyways. All that said, I really liked that chains. It cut great, and held an edge decent.

I like a semi chisel cutter. I learned in my log home building "experiment" that semi-chisel may not cut as fast (I can't really tell the difference) but it's not as grabby. Back to that smooth and easy to use bit. 

I've got chisel chains on my 562's but I'm really considering going to semi chisel.

I've said before how I used to follow motocross when I was a teen. One thing that struck me was when magazine guys would get a chance to ride a pro's "works" bike, nearly always they would come back with a report of how the bikes were just smooth. They went into it expecting radical levels of power, but usually they had just a bit more power. But it was smooth power, available over a wide rpm range. Smooth handling, smooth suspension. Well behaved, and easy to ride.

That's how you want your saw, too imo.

The Stihl ms261 is one of those saws. I used to have a Jonsered 2165, that made the same kind of power just bigger (and the sister saw to the Husky 365). Those saws make smooth power, that you don't even have to be wide open throttle to nip a limb. Just roll it up half throttle and vroom through the limb it goes. 

I remember marketing ads from Jonsered back in the day. Husky wouldn't even give the 365 the "xp" designation, but Jinsered marketed the 2165 as a pro sae ideal for hardwoodn because of the good low end power. These were before the saws were made "strato" designs. 

[Wlmedley]

Barbender, I have never owned a Stihl saw and wouldn't mind trying one but the Stihl dealer we have here leaves a lot to be desired. He's a pretty nice guy when you go in to buy something new but acts like he doesn't have time to be bothered if you come back for parts or service. I bought a small tractor from him years ago and haven't dealt with him since. I've bought a couple mowers and several weed eaters, from the Husqvarna dealer and I have always liked him. I bought my 372 Husqvarna in 2000 and all I have ever had to do was put a kit in the carburetor once and a few spark plugs. I know I don't use one near as much as a lot of you guys but it has cut quite a bit. When a company sales me a good product I try to stay with them. I did look at the spec's on the 261 and it looks pretty close to the 550 in weight and power although the Stihl is around a $100 more which it may be worth it. Guess I'll find out 

[barbender]

Bill, I'm really not trying to sway you one way or the other, just giving you an honest evaluation from my experience. The 261 was my first Stihl. It never had to go back to the shop. None of the dealers in my area impress me that much, so I just get what I want🤷 Those Husky 550xp's would be a fine saw as well, I'm sure. 

[upnut]

Brother(74) and I(71) have utilized ATV winches in various configurations to lift, drag, and pull chunks or logs of firewood in order to save our backs...


Also have been using a hookaroon and pickaroon, along with log tongs to manuever smaller rounds. My favorite saw for firewood is a Stihl 241, smallest pro saw I could find with a decompression relief. Tractor hydraulics are also a great aid...





Scott B.

[trapper]

my dealer said stihl made a mistake not selling the 241 in the us any more.  I love mine/

[Wlmedley]

Upnut, thanks for the pictures. Lots of good ideas. Barbender , I'm going to go look at the Stihl but not at the dealer I was talking about. May have to travel a little farther but I have plenty of time and I don't buy a new saw very often. 

[Magicman]

I don't know how many new chainsaws that I have bought, 8-10 I guess.  Five new Stihls and I consider the MS261 my best and all time favorite saw.  Light, handy, easy starting, and does the job.  Mine is not the cm (electronic tune) model.

I seldom feel the need to get the MS362 out.

[beenthere]

I don't know how many new chainsaws that I have bought, 8-10 I guess.  Five new Stihls and I consider the MS261 my best and all time favorite saw.  Light, handy, easy starting, and does the job.  Mine is not the cm (electronic tune) model.

I seldom feel the need to get the MS362 out.

I'm with MM with the MS261 and the MS362. The big one comes out when more power is in order, but the small one is great most of the time. 
Both are auto tune and neither has missed a lick. For some reason, I do like the fact that there is now switch to flip to "on". The saw is always "on" and just pick it up and pull the starter rope. Not having to do that extra motion just seems to give me joy. 

But I would hesitate taking my Stihl saws to a "dealer" at a hardware store or a tractor dealer. Wouldn't be comfortable or expect a good tech at either that knows saws. 

[TreefarmerNN]

my uncle Jerry has passed, but he still cut firewood as he got older, and often with younger friends and neighbors.  He would work till his saw ran out of gas.  One of his friends' younger sons realized jerry was not filling his saw full and told his dad.  they got a good laugh, and his son was told that Jerry could fill his saw as full as he wanted.  less time between breaks.

That's a man that knew his limitations and adapted as needed.  You do what you have to do!

[thecfarm]

I cut up some of that big wood at times.
I wonder if it's really worth it. But I hate to waste wood.
It sure does add up when I am done with it.

[Rhodemont]

I have noticed the last 10 or 15 years that someone turns up gravity a little bit each year.  Things , chainsaws, get heavier.  I use my Stihl 362 (59cc)with a 20 inch bar only for felling and bucking the large diameter logs.  The Stihl 039 (64 cc) with 18 inch bar is heavier and wears on me but is great for big limbs and work near the ground, it takes a beating and keeps cutting.  My Echo CSP361P with 16 inch bar (36cc) at 8lbs dry weight gets the most use.  Anything under 10 inch diameter and it cuts right through without a problem and is light to handle.  Couple years ago I implemented the one tank rule.  One tank fuel in each saw max for a day.  If I run a tank in each I can fell two big oaks, clean up the tops, cut saw logs and buck the firewood.  That is more than enough for a day.

For splitting I did it by hand for 30 years which I could start to feel in my shoulders.  So, I bought a Timberwolf log splitter with manual log lift and exit catch rack, both of which are big back savers.  The diameter of the logs I use the lift for goes down each year. A 70 year old friend was over yesterday to help split in return for a pickup load of wood.  He was busy as a beaver but also lifting big logs to put on the splitter...had to put a stop to that.  After a while he commented "this lift is pretty handy".

[Spike60]

Those pics that upnut posted made me even feel sorry for the poor machine that had to lift them. Surely those huge rounds weren't cut with a 241, were they? 

But calling a 241 a favorite firewood saw is another testimony that smaller saws can indeed do more work than we generally give them credit for. My most used saw is a Jonsered 2153 and IMO a good 50cc class saw should handle up to 12" wood without thinking to reach for a larger saw. Yeah, a 572XP is sweet, but the couple of seconds it saves in the cut are only a miniscule part of the entire firewood process. But, looking at it from the other direction, the weight of a 70cc saw is typically a lot lighter than the average round that it will cut. Most of the lifting involves the wood, not the saw. So, it comes down to whatever I feel like running on a given day.

Another reality about getting older is that in addition to the tank on a saw or splitter, our own "tanks" won't always have the same amount of energy every day. Sometimes you are fired up and can keep going. Other days you seem to run out of gas sooner than others. 

[doc henderson]

once in the wood, the weight of the saw can be the driving force to go on through.   when splitting a large log (4-foot diameter) down the length to get it on the sawmill. I just support the handle of the 880 pointed at a 45 in the wood and walk slowly back on the log.

[upnut]

Ray- Those pics were a once in a lifetime project, most of the trees I work on are much smaller! 

Spike 60- I borrowed my late neighbors Husky 394 for the big stuff, perfect saw for that kind of work.  

More my speed, Stihl 200 battery saw and small ironwood...



Scott B.

[woodman52]

Major improvement for me this year was putting forks on my Kubota.  That allowed me to pick up all but the biggest logs, pull them away from the skidding pile a bit, and cut them up at waist height.  Only drawback is moving from one side of the tractor to the other a couple times for each log.  But I was able to work for a couple hrs bucking with little back pain. 

After last year I was not sure I would make it through another season.  But with this new method I may be able to keep cutting a few more years.

Take a light chain and go around the log and the near fork. That will hold the log from tipping as you cut. you can then cut up to the near fork before walking to the other end. It really saves steps.

[beenthere]

OR add "The Thumb" to the forks. Works well and is not intrusive to the other uses of the forks. 


Holding log


Blocking up a log

[Wlmedley]

Had to take my wife to a doctors appointment today in town so I figured I'd look at the Stihl 261 at a couple places. First place I went didn't have one which didn't surprise me as they are mostly a large feed store and I probably wouldn't have bought a saw from them anyway. Next place had a couple and I got to look one over. Sales person didn't seem to know much about it except the price which was a little over $700. Nice looking saw and quite a bit lighter than the saw I have. Stopped by my local dealer on the way home and looked at the 550 Husqvarna and it seemed pretty nice and dealer had it priced at $699 . Online I found several 550's for around $550 and some have free shipping. Don't really want to buy a saw online and then expect some local dealer to do warranty work on it (if needed). But $150 is a pretty big difference. Stihl was the same price online as it was in town. Found out that a large hardware store in Charleston is a Husqvarna dealer and I know they have a large small engine shop in their basement so I gave them a call. Guy I talked to said regular price was $700 on the 550 but they had them marked down to $559 until April 1. I'll probably run down there tomorrow. Out of all the equipment I've bought over the years I've only had to take one item back for warranty work and it was a Echo but you never know.

[thecfarm]

I like to buy from a dealer, because I know I will need some repair work done sometime.
My 450 husky, 50cc, has a easy start or something like that. That has been replaced twice so far.

[GRANITEstateMP]

I ran 2 tanks through my 550 yesterday.  When one of my 346xp saws needed a rebuild, I replaced it with the 550.  Love the little saws that get up to high rpm QUICK. I run 16in bars on both those saws, they work great and are well balanced.  More bar and power is always a few steps away, but not always needed. Only thing I don't like is after running it, I usually have to have the throttle wide open to refire.  I will buy another to replace the other 346when its time. Never did fire the 372 yesterday, but did a tank through the 441.

[John Mc]

If you are shopping for a Husqvarna 550XP, make sure you get the 550XP Mark II version. They made some needed improvements with the Mark II model.

BTW: Husqvarna USA's website shows a current sale price of $549.99 (marked down from a regular price of $699.99). Unfortunately, they don;t sell direct to the consumer, and their website is not very helpful in finding a dealer who is actually selling for that price. (I can find a couple of mail order places, but no one near me.)

[Wlmedley]

I just bought one today for $559.99 at a dealer in town. Dealer close to me was still wanting $700.00. Don't know why he didn't mark his down. Mine is a Mark 2 and looks like it's built good. Fired right up and seemed to run good. I'll let you know how it cuts as I haven't cut anything yet. If you look on Acme Tools web site they have them with free shipping. The outfit I bought mine from does service work and are fairly close so I went with them. Hopefully I won't need to take it back for anything.Probably the extra $10 was because I got a 18" bar.

[Magicman]

Good for you !!  

[SwampDonkey]

Like I always say, everyone will find their way to match their needs. 

[Wlmedley]

Ran my new saw a little bit this afternoon. I wish I'd had a little bigger wood to cut but I tried it out on a hickory tree top that I hadn't cut up yet. Mostly 12" and smaller but I really enjoyed running it. Pulls and starts easy and idles nice once warmed up. This thing runs smooth and cuts fast and on small wood I believe it will keep up with a 372.Had a hickory crouch which took most of the bar to reach through and it cut it cross grain like it was nothing. This is all the saw I'll need most of the time. I just hope it holds up. I don't really need a fast cutting saw but it does make it more enjoyable. Would of kind of liked to have tried a Stihl but didn't want to spend a extra $150 to do it. Hope I don't regret it later.

[Magicman]

Bill, you came to a fork in the road and took it.  Never be concerned about what was down the other road because you did not go that way.  I am sure that you will spend many enjoyable working hours with your new saw. 

[barbender]

The 550 will be a great saw for you. Those 50cc saws actually seem to cut faster than a 70cc up until a 12-14" log, I think. 

[hedgerow]

Ran my new saw a little bit this afternoon. I wish I'd had a little bigger wood to cut but I tried it out on a hickory tree top that I hadn't cut up yet. Mostly 12" and smaller but I really enjoyed running it. Pulls and starts easy and idles nice once warmed up. This thing runs smooth and cuts fast and on small wood I believe it will keep up with a 372.Had a hickory crouch which took most of the bar to reach through and it cut it cross grain like it was nothing. This is all the saw I'll need most of the time. I just hope it holds up. I don't really need a fast cutting saw but it does make it more enjoyable. Would of kind of liked to have tried a Stihl but didn't want to spend a extra $150 to do it. Hope I don't regret it later.

I don't think you will regret not buying the Stihl 261. You have mostly ran a Husqvarna and that's what you like. Had a buddy that had a 372 for years and loved it. Me I have ran different brands of saws and seem to like Stihl the best so after running a 261 that was the one for me to buy. Shopped around a little and got the 261 bought and liked it so well a less than a year later I bought another so both of my helpers have one to run. In my older age I don't care if something cost a little more if its the tool I want, I buy it. 

[B.C.C. Lapp]

Keep that 550 real sharp and it will do what you want it to.   Couple guys mention 261's. I have a couple of them and in the wood yard i love em. Light, start easy and, if there sharp they cut fast enough for me.  Bigger  saws for logging but seems even my go these days for that is a 362. Got three of them and love em.