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Self releasing snatch block

Started by ironmule2004, December 16, 2024, 07:44:54 PM

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ironmule2004

Hello,  Looking at making or purchasing a self releasing snatch block.  If I have to put in in place and then go remove it after the log gets by it vs me putting a conventional snatch block in place then going to remove it just before the logs gets past it am I saving any steps?  Especially wondering if worth the expense for that.

doc henderson

well, if you have to make 20 trips down the same road maybe.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

thecfarm

I myself don't have one and don't see the need for one in my woods.
I can't remember the last time I wished I had one.
But if I needed one I would have it.
I can't even remember the last time I had to hook a slider to a tree to act like a snatch block. 

But saying that g_man is a master at using one.

Those will last more than a lifetime, so it's not wasted money either.

So just buy it!!!!!!  :wacky:
Then you will wonder why you did not buy it sooner.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

TreefarmerNN

I splurged on one for the rare occasion I need to drag something out of a creek that has a vertical side for 6-8' and then a 45 degree slope up to hard ground.  I rig a snatch block to a tree as high as I can to lift above the vertical side.  With a regular snatch block, I have to stop the winch and chain the load so it doesn't slide back down, slack off the winch cable and take it out of the block and then tighten up the winch enough to hold the load while removing the safety chain.  With the self releasing block, it's a straight pull up and over the vertical side and on up to hard ground.

I only did the conventional block once before deciding there's a better way as I'm too old to scramble up and down slopes multiple times. 

The SR (self releasing) also comes in if the drag path is a zig zag.  I put the conventional block at the turn closest to the winch and the SR down the line.  Pull the load close to the conventional block, unhook and retrieve both blocks and finish the pull.  That's one trip rather than 3-4 trips moving the blocks.

PoginyHill

I use my self-releasing snatch block on occasion, but when I do, I'm certainly glad I have it. I think I'm on the fence whether I would spend the extra money for the self-release or just get a conventional. At least half the time I don't use the self-release feature - I want to disconnect it before the twitch gets to the block. Generally, just need to re-direct it enough to get by something and by allowing it to get to the block, the twitch would run into something else.
Kubota M7060 & B2401, Metavic log trailer, Cat E70B, Cat D5C, 750 Grizzly ATV, Wallenstein FX110, 84" Landpride rotary hog, Classic Edge 750, Stihl 170, 261, 462

Rhodemont

I use a conventional which works just fine for me. 
Woodmizer LT35HD, EG 100 Edger, JD4720 with Norse350 winch
Stihl 362, 039, Echo CS-2511T,  CS-361P, MSA 300 C-O

g_man

A lot depends on how you work. In my case I have fairly rough ground that I can't drive the tractor on. I keep the tractor on the trails. It doesn't have forestry tires or other protection for being in the slash. I use a block a lot. My trails are narrow and I can't jig around to get a good angle for a pull.  So as often as not I set a block behind the tractor on the trail side and pull wood out from the opposite side of the trail.






I try to set up so that I use the same skid path for multiple pulls.

I used to use a shackle on a standard recovery block. An extra trip each pull to undo the shackle and block.








Then I bought a self release block which saved me a lot of time and energy.








Since I use a snatch very often the other big advantage to me is how much easier it is to set up the the self release block vs the shackle and block. Put the strap on the tree where you want it. Grab the block and hang it on the strap. Done. This is my block set up.








If you get yourself a self releasing block you have the option to figure ways to make use of it to increase your productivity or ease your work. I have used mine similar @TreefarmerNN by hanging it over a big log or rock wall so I could get my log up and over the obstruction.

Hope this helps.

gg

47sawdust

I also work on rough ground.The tractor and winch will be parked on solid ground.The self releasing snatch block is hung as high as I can reach on a stable tree.I can then fell and retrieve logs from a pretty large area without moving the snatch block.I've used mine for over 10 years.It is ugly and beat up.I replaced the spring last year with parts sourced from NE Farm Service in Spencer,New York.
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

DanielW

I convinced myself I needed a few self-releasing blocks a few years ago. Because they're crazy expensive and because I work at a machine/fab shop, I decided to make some myself. They work well and are nice and heavy-duty, but I seldom use them (I don't even know where they are anymore - buried in one of my barns). For skidding on steep slopes, they occasionally save a little effort. But even for us on our steep, hilly, and rocky land, some careful thought about skidding paths and making appropriate trails and landings renders them unnecessary.

If you do a lot of logging on some really steep and awkward land, then you may want to invest in one or two. But if you're only a part-time/hobbyist, and especially if you're working primarily on flat land, I think you'll find there's no real benefit. Even for us where we seldom go a day without being in the bush, they're rather unnecessary. There are certainly some folks like those above posters above who get a lot of good use out of them, but I think there are also a lot of people who have them as an expensive toy for the man who wants to say he has everything.

You can get conventional, 25,000#, slip-joint style snatch blocks from places like Vevor or Amazon for $50 that work just dandy. If I were you, I'd buy a couple of those (presuming you don't already have some) and try them for a bit. They won't go bad, and even if you eventually get a self-releasing one, a few extra conventional ones kicking around won't go amiss. You can skid for a while with the conventional ones and see if you think you'd benefit from a self-releasing type before you spend the $400 on one (or whatever they cost now - probably more than that).


g_man

Wow, I had no idea they are $400 now. I bought mine in 2013 for $160. I just looked it up in my book to be sure. So less than $16 a year and going down every year. Well worth it to me. I suspect it will out last me. But $400 is a lot if you don't use it.
Good advise above going with a standard block and then decide.

gg

TreefarmerNN

I paid $324 for mine in July which included shipping.  Still pricey but less expensive than some other places.

It was from Woodward Country Crossing who were very good people to deal with.
https://woodwardcrossingscountrybasics.com/product/self-releasing-snatchblock-pulley-from-igland/

John Mc

I own two Self-Releasing snatch blocks. I use them fairly regularly, since I often need to put a dogleg in the path I'm using to pull logs out of the woods. My woods are dense enough that a pull of any decent length is not likely to have a straight path available.

I got the first one shortly after I bought my winch. I bought the second one when forum member @apm was making them for sale in his machine shop. His were well made and his special pricing for forum members was significantly less expensive than the other options.

I don't use two very often, but it has come in handy at times.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

John Mc

If you are thinking of making one, there is a bit of description for how to do so in the sidebar accompanying the attached article.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

ironmule2004


Joe Hillmann

I built one and found for the way I work and with my equipment it is of very little use.

I like pulling out the tree in a single stick, 30+ feet long.  With a log that long I usually can't turn it at a single point like a self releasing snatch block would do.  I usually have to turn it gradually at several points using several snatch blocks or several set ups.

My equipment is also undersized so I end up doing a lot of walking back and forth to free up snags and every time I let tension off the cable there is a pretty good chance the cable needs to be reset in the self releasing snatch block before I can pull again.

When I built the snatch block I thought it would be very useful.  In the I maybe used it 3 or 4 times where it was actually useful and I don't think I have used it in 3 or 4 years, even though I use all my regular blocks at least weekly.

John Mc

Joe - does your self-releasing snatch bock have a "keeper" to keep the cable in place until the slider on the choker trips it?  It's extremely rare that the cable falls off either of my self-releasing blocks accidentally, even if I release tension and restart.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Dan_Shade

Joe, do you have any pictures of your snatch block?  

Where did you get your pulley/sheave? 
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

Joe Hillmann

Quote from: John Mc on December 25, 2024, 08:28:16 AMJoe - does your self-releasing snatch bock have a "keeper" to keep the cable in place until the slider on the choker trips it?  It's extremely rare that the cable falls off either of my self-releasing blocks accidentally, even if I release tension and restart.
It does.  It is a 1 inch wide 3/8 thick and about 3 inches long it pivots and gets pushed out of the way by the chain at the end of my cable.  I use synthetic cable which may be part of the problem.  As long as I keep a bit of tension on the line it works fine but if I let off all tension the cable partially falls off the pulley and then when I start pulling the cable rolls off the pulley and triggers the keeper to open.

Joe Hillmann

Quote from: Dan_Shade on December 25, 2024, 10:40:25 AMJoe, do you have any pictures of your snatch block? 

Where did you get your pulley/sheave?
I could take pictures of it the next time I am in the woods. 

I made it out of an existing snatch block. 

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