6 Foot Copper Strip Issues

[KnotBB]

FWIW

Looking at the picture of the burnt contactor it shows a wear pattern that says it's not contacting full length.  Look to see if the the bronze piece is free to move in on all axises is supposed to.  More contact area = less current density of the contacting area = less arcing.  Try dressing it on a flat surface (table saw?) using sand papers in steps. Start with say 80 grit and go up to maybe 400. Polish it like you would the sole on a wood plane.  Try and get all the carbon arcs out.  Any carbon left will just lead to more arcing.  If the arcs in the contactor are too deep you may need a new one.  If it is truly bronze it is self lubricating from the lead in the alloy and self conforming given a chance.  Burnishing with the back of a table spoon might even be a good idea.  Carbon doesn't conform and is not self lubricating.   

More pressure sounds like a good idea after you talk to WM Tech.   And as mentioned make sure the ground path is also working.  People tend to ignore grounds to their detriment.  Ground/return path is very important.  Any resistance will cause a voltage drop and increase current.

[Slabs]

Is there any way to adjust the time the pumps will run after the hydraulic lever is released? Seems like mine ran for about 5 seconds or more which may not sound like much but it really adds up on small logs?

Sounds like your microswitch actuator bar may be clogged with sawdust, oil or a combination.  Move the head away from the copper strip, open the hydraulics compartment and operate the valve levers and watch the bar to see if it is moving unimpeded.  Possibly a sticky microswitch.  Is your mill new enough to have a reverse-current-diode across the switch?

[stavebuyer]

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Sounds like your microswitch actuator bar may be clogged with sawdust, oil or a combination.  Move the head away from the copper strip, open the hydraulics compartment and operate the valve levers and watch the bar to see if it is moving unimpeded.  Possibly a sticky microswitch.  Is your mill new enough to have a reverse-current-diode across the switch?
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The mill is a 2011 LT70DCS. The hydraulic functions are controlled via remote joysticks. Two pumps and two solenoids like an LT40 Super but I think the similarity ends there. A six wire cable like a telephone or printer cable connects the joysticks to an aluminum electrical control box mounted inside the hydraulic compartment. Electrical cabling runs to a flow control valve and to a multiple valve body. The "delay" has been there since day one.  Since I by-passed the DC pumps its no longer an issue but if I ever needed to make the mill portable again it would be nice to know if there is a way to eliminate the delay.

[stavebuyer]

I had occasion to visit Wood-Mizer in Indy yesterday. While there I spoke to one of the electrical engineers and the newer mills have a software delay that keeps the pump(s) running for 3 seconds after the hydraulic control is released. The purpose of the delay was to extend the life of the pump motor by reducing the number of start/stop cycles of the pump when using the bed functions. Some pitting and arcing can be attributed to moving the head before the 3 second pump cycle is complete. A revision of the software to reduce this delay is forthcoming.