what to look for with reclaimed timber

[Alexis]

Hello everybody, I am starting to shop for reclaimed barn timber in my area. I know it's best to work with green wood, but I want to start with my braces and the rest of the frame will be finished in only 3 years best case scenario so I don't want these to move at all.

What should I look for in the beams? I am planning on resawing them, is there a way to make sure they are still structurally sound and have not been attacked by mold or insect?

thanks

Alexis

[Brad_bb]

As any timber framer would, you want to inspect each piece for a given use in the frame.   You should inspect the piece for grain run out, knots -size, number, type and location, and you can easily check any suspect area for rot with an awl or a pocket knife.  Lastly also check for excessive checking.  Often there is more checking on the end, so you have to determine if there is sufficient wood to make your tenon, or if you will have to shorten the beam to get good wood. 

Termites and carpenter ants...you'll have to check for evidence of that yourself.  Pieces used for tie beams, or rafters or girts will need to be better quality than what you can live with for posts. Once you become familiar with what to look for, it's not too hard. 

It's also worthwhile to understand the NELMA grading rules for timbers, which are online.  This will help you to understand knots and how they play into grading.
  
For your braces, you might consider having new material milled, and stacking and stickering them for a few months to dry (with the ends painted with green wood end grain sealer).  It may be easier than than trying to cut stock out of existing beams, especially if there is checking in the reclaimed timber. 

Often the checking will run through one of the central axis of the  cross section of the wood.  Buying some oak brace stock will not be too expensive from a mill.  Use a local mill listed from this site if possible. 
  
Lastly, don't overpay for your reclaim.  Learn what prices are like, what's available, and where to look.  In this economy especially, you should be able to find a good deal(s).  Hauling/trucking rates are better now too as everyone is looking for loads to haul.  PM me if you want some specific advice in this area.

[beenthere]

That was a good accounting from Brad for inspecting the timbers.
Also could add looking for any staining indicating water leaks, which causes decay rather quickly in wood. Prolly the main reason old barns and buildings degrade quickly, when the roofing is not kept in repair.

Another would be fresh wood splits that can be caused from careless removal during dismantling. A lot of work to take a timber frame apart, and can result in shortcuts, like just pulling it down.

[shinnlinger]

I would also see if using reclaimed timbers is code approved for what you want to do before you get too far along.  I love re using old stuff, but it does have it's drawbacks as mentioned above.  WHen I use old timbers, I inspect them as best I can and make sure they are oversized for what I want to do by 25-50% or more.  You can splice in new timbers and load up some questionable areas with fiberglass resin if is not in too critical of a location.

Dave

[Alexis]

good news,

I found sawmill that sells kd 4X6 in red pine for a bit over 1$/linear foot. This seems like a very good price. I will have to go get them (4h drive) but it will allow me to be sure of the quality. They say that the moisture content drops to 15% so I don't think they should move, am i right?

This same sawmill sells kd 8x8 for not much than green ones. They say that they put a lot of weight on them so they don't twist and they bring the moisture content to 25%. This seems almost too good to be true... any concerns?

[beenthere]

They say that the moisture content drops to 15% so I don't think they should move, am i right?

You are right, as long as the moisture content doesn't change. When it changes, the wood will shrink or swell accordingly. Just the nature of wood.

Above about 30% mc, the wood doesn't move (all free water in the cells). Below that 30%, (and especially the 25% mentioned), the wood will move because the moisture is going or coming from the cell walls and they shrink or swell.

[Brad_bb]

Most often oak is used for brace stock.  Are you sure 4X6 pine is sufficient for your loads?

Recalculating, you would then be paying just over .50/BF   (4*6*12=288cu in, 288/144=2BF, $1FT/2=.50).  Doesn't seem bad at all, but must make sure it's grade two or better, hopefully better. 
Don't discount the 4h hauling each way.  That must factor into your cost. 

Don't discount a sawyer that might be much closer to you.  Use the "forum extras" button near the top of the page to "Fine a sawyer/forester" near you.  It's a good thing to work with fellow forestry forum people.
Brad