Newby with another project

[Cornerstone]

Well, here we go. I've been collecting parts for a while now and started building this week. The plan is not entirely mapped out but I think I have a basic understanding and enough fabricating skill to figure it out along the way. I'll add pics if possible and take all the sound advice y'all are willing to offer. I'm taking ideas from several different mills like EZ Boardwalk, Lin Lumber and a YouTuber named Larry Sbrusch. I want to have a fully manual saw that can be upgraded if I get tired of pushing the thing for every board. Lets get into this!

[fluidpowerpro]

Welcome and good luck on your build. There are lots of helpful people here that are willing to help. so don't hesitate to ask questions.

[Cornerstone]

I'm looking for a thread or direction on how to post pics please. Thanks in advance!

[Ljohnsaw]

I'm looking for a thread or direction on how to post pics please. Thanks in advance!

Photo posting thread

[Cornerstone]

Thanks for the tutorial my friend.


The saw bed was made from 6" channel



 


The track all painted up with leveling feet added in.

 

This is how I designed my track roller system, still more work to be finished though.


 

[rusticretreater]

Lookin good!

[Ljohnsaw]

Thanks for the tutorial my friend.

You're welcome.  Now you just need to rotate your photos so I don't fall out of my chair when I look at them! ;)

[thecfarm]

Pushing is the easy part!!
It's all the rest that is hard. 

[DanMc]

Marvelous!  I would have concern about the little tabs that are carrying the levelling screws.  The two tabs in the middle will need to carry 1-2 tons of weight.  They look like they could be subject to bending under that kind of load.  Are you planning to add more of them?   

[Joe Hillmann]

You need to put stops on the ends of the track so you/gravity/wind can roll the head off the track.  You should also consider putting some type of hook from the head down under the track so the head can tip over off the track(I had that happen mid way through a cut above my head when a cable broke and the entire head tipped over and did a lot of damage.

[JoshNZ]

+1 I wish I captured my carriage on the bed. It worked fine until an obscure problem one day and tipped over, did a fair bit of damage. Doesn't have to he a smooth cam follower, just a hook to prevent tipover

[Cornerstone]

Marvelous!  I would have concern about the little tabs that are carrying the levelling screws.  The two tabs in the middle will need to carry 1-2 tons of weight.  They look like they could be subject to bending under that kind of load.  Are you planning to add more of them?  

Yes sir! more material will be added to the frame where the wheels attach. Plus some sort of sweeper set-up to keep the sawdust from buildup. 

Pushing is the easy part!!
It's all the rest that is hard.

Truth indeed! It's fun too! I've only made 2 passes in my life on one of these and can't wait to make thousands more. ;D

Lookin good!

Appreciate the compliment sir!

You need to put stops on the ends of the track so you/gravity/wind can roll the head off the track.  You should also consider putting some type of hook from the head down under the track so the head can tip over off the track(I had that happen mid way through a cut above my head when a cable broke and the entire head tipped over and did a lot of damage.

Stops and capture hooks are in the "half-fast" plan as well. Thanks for the advice. Please keep it coming! 

[Joe Hillmann]

The hooks and the stops should be bolted on instead of welded.  I welded mine on and when I wanted to extend my bed I had to cut the stops and the hooks had to be cut off and made new because the track extensions were each made of different material.

[Ljohnsaw]

You need to put stops on the ends of the track

On my track, which is 2"x3" angle, 3" vertical, I drilled a hole near the end and put a small shackle through it with the shackle on the top of the angle.  Stops it well and easy to remove when needed.  With yours, you could just use a C-clamp or drill a hole vertical and put  big bolt through it.

[Iwawoodwork]

Cornerstone, I have the inverted V track on both sides of my sawmill and no wipes. the V roller wheels do a pretty good job of self cleaning  by pressing the sawdust down to the rail, only wire brushed  a couple of times when I forgot blow down and it rained. the head does not bounce around. 

[fluidpowerpro]

+1 I wish I captured my carriage on the bed. It worked fine until an obscure problem one day and tipped over, did a fair bit of damage. Doesn't have to he a smooth cam follower, just a hook to prevent tipover

I second this suggestion. You dont think you will ever tip it over, but it will eventually happen for some reason or another. Especially when your head is cranked all the way up and your top heavy. I suppose at least then you will get to post in the "did something dumb" thread. 

[rusticretreater]

Here's how Woodland Mills keeps the mill head rollers clean.  Its a piece of twisted wire cable folded in half and mounted so the ends of the cable are in the grooves of the rollers.



 

[Joe Hillmann]

My rails are 1/2 inch iron pipe.  My wheels have a big v grove with a smaller square grove at the bottom and I have clean packed sawdust out of them every few passes.  I should put a scraper of some type to keep them clean.  

The build up raises the head about 1/16 inch and makes the head much harder to push.

[Cornerstone]

Since you fellas are so helpful, I'll go ahead and ask a few questions I've been pondering.
Here are the parts I intend to use.



 




 




 







 

 

First question. Do y'all think my selection of 1.25" shaft diameter is going to be acceptable? I ask because I see others are using larger. I was trying to save a few bucks when I bought these... I hope I won't regret it!

Second question is this... The custom made roller guides have a machined lip inside the center bore that prohibits the bearings from fully pressing in. Anyone see a problem with this? I'm sure I can find someone to mill out a bit more material and solve this 100% in advance if needed.

Thanks guys,
Brian

[fluidpowerpro]

If your supporting the shaft on both sides with pillow block bearings, I think 1.25" will be strong enough. Not sure about the bearings.. Its odd that they dont go in farther. I suggest asking whoever you bought them from how the design is to accept bearings.

[Cornerstone]

If your supporting the shaft on both sides with pillow block bearings, I think 1.25" will be strong enough. Not sure about the bearings.. Its odd that they dont go in farther. I suggest asking whoever you bought them from how the design is to accept bearings.

Thank you for the response. I'll give him a call.

[Cornerstone]

Today I addressed a few concerns with the wheel and track design.



 
Added backstops.




 
To cover the back wheels and add strength.




 
I cut the same size tubing in half and used it to add strength and cover the front wheels as well.



 
New wheel design.

Since this is all I was able to get done today, I'm now seeing how long this is going to take! I know there are many on this board who can steer me in the right direction. I hope everyone will feel free to jump in and say, Hey... do this next, or.... Look at so and so's build. Basically I'm overwhelmed from watching a bazillion videos, drawing out several dozen plans, and thinking this over until I'm confused. My goal is to have a strong, manual mill that can be upgraded to have some power frills in the future. I figure if I love it as much as I think I will, I'll then go through the extra expense and effort to snaz it up a bit. 

After I get trolley all squared up and welded together, I 'm not sure what step I should do next. I figure I'll lay out my band wheels with the 158" blade wrapped around them to see how wide I need to make the frame with the sliding "tensioner" part. Maybe that will make the direction clearer after I can visualize it. It would be nice to have a set of actual plans.

Awaiting guidance....
Brian

[Ljohnsaw]

I used SketchUp to draw out my head plans.  How are you going to hang the head in the frame?  Make ABSOLUTELY sure you will be able to raise the head as far as you need and doesn't conflict with bracing holding the trolley together.  Actually, make sure it can raise at least 15% further than you think you need ;)  You need to plan for where your engine, fuel tank and lube tank will be sitting.  I moved my lift motor (up on top) and it was in the way of my fuel tank.  Was able to do a field fix on that one!


 

[rusticretreater]

I do a bit of manufacturing of things myself and like to design things.

You do need to get the bearings fully seated in the roller guide.  In the picture, it appears the lip is quite a way down the bore.  Unless you are using really wide bearings, it seems the bore is tapered.  They might need to be heated up to slide the bearing in and when it cools, they are married, or the tolerance is off(likely). The bearing takes its load in the center of the race, so having them protrude is asking for them to cock to one side, pop out or misalign.

I understand your need to reinforce the carriage of the head around the wheels.  But the design you have seems it will collect all manner of debris under the roller cover which will be hard to clean out(shavings, bark, chunks of wood).  You could probably use a few access holes to stick a screwdriver in there or a power sprayer, etc. to clean things.  Another thought is to mount your groove cleaning device on the cover over a slot to keep the wheels below clean.

As for the mill head, yep you want to continually check things to ensure clearance.  I raise the head on my mill high so that I can work on things standing up, or to get a better viewing angle from underneath.  Another thing to consider when designing the head.

[Cornerstone]

Thanks ljohnsaw, trying to learn SketchUp now... it sure looks like an incredible tool if I can get good at it. I like the way EZ boardwalk 40 hangs their saw head, with using a garage door spring to assist with the weight, so that's currently the idea. Note taken on allowing enough extra height for the head to be out of the way. 

Appreciate the advice rusticretreater. The problem is that bore the bearings fit into is just not deep enough. It's not a tapered bore, just too shallow. Maybe a different bearing will do the trick, but I'm going to contact the fella who sold the pieces to me and see what he says. He made them with his own equipment so he may request me to send them to him to cut out some more material or possibly exchange for a proper set. In regard to the wheel cover design, what do you think if I cover the front of the front wheel and the and back of the back wheels and enclose the housing entirely, while adding a groove cleaning device similar to the Woodland Mills design you shared?  I also like the idea of the saw head being high enough to get under it.

Really appreciate all the help gentlemen.
Brian