I broke off a velocity fuse today.
i got a small peice of wood wedged in beside the cylinder which pushed it sideways, and then bound up the velocity fuse, forcing it to break off.
I had to run out and buy an easy out, but I couldn't budge the thing... I'm hesitant to try heat, due to fire concerns.
Any tricks to getting what's left of the fuse out of the cylinder?
I use a chisel that will fit into the piece stuck into the clyinder. Drive the chisel in to the fittting and turn out with a cresent wrench. Sometimes the easy out will swell the fitting making it tighter.
You dont want to use flame, the hydraulic fluid is flamable, very.
Marty
ok, i'll try a chisel...
i probably swelled the thing with the easy out, i put enough torque on it to break an adjustable wrench :-\
I don't know how big the fitting is but I have used a hacksaw blade to cut it on 2 sides to get it out have to be careful not to hit threads just do it slowly if you try this jmo
Chico
i tried the chisel, i think i got it swelled and wedged in there pretty good...
didn't make much, if any, progress. Of course me + 3 beers, in the dark, probably didn't help much....
what a pain...
I'll mess with it in the morning, but I fear that I may have gotten ahead of myself on this one.
Fresh eyes and the fact you will dream about it all night to come up with a solution should make things go well tomorrow. :)
First one came out easy. The next one was a pain.
I used a square stud extractor (as opposed to the spiral kind) and drove it in with a hammer until it bottomed out. Then I pulled out the extractor, ground off the tip, and drove it in deeper. Then I put my tap wrench on it and gave it a sharp twist.
The tap wrench gives you two handles to work with, so you're less likely to lever the extractor loose.
Don't throw away the broken valve just yet...
(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/wscheckvalve.JPG)
Here is a couple of broken fuse valves. One I had repaired by turning back the shoulder and re-cutting the threads.
Here is a link to the post I made on the fixing of the hydraulic fuse valve.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,258.msg73033.html#msg73033
P.S. These little buggers are not cheap!
Next option is remove the clyinder and drill and tap the hole.
Thanks for your help, Marty, I'm afraid that's where I'm at.
can you get helicoils for pipe threads?
I'm assuming that's a pipe thread...
I am not sure on the Pipe Heli, Take it to a machine shop , or cut the fitting off and weld a new one on.
fun stuff...
any tips on how to clean out the cylinder after all of this excitement?
Experience is what you get after you needed it.
magnet but really needs to be disassembled doesn't take much of a filing to ruin things jmo
Chico
I went through the same thing when I first got my mill. Broke it off while setting it on the concrete piers. I jammed an easy out with a small straight screwdriver blade in it. Turned the whole thing with a pipe wrench. Took a lot of cussing which is really the secret here. I've always noticed that if you really cuss something out it gets intimidated and gives up.....call me if you need any new words. :D
Quote from: Dan_Shade on April 25, 2009, 07:13:57 AM
can you get helicoils for pipe threads?
I'm assuming that's a pipe thread...
Doubt you can as they would not seal on the hydraulic pressure. But you can get pipe bushings to go to the next size larger thread.
If that velocity fuse is that much of a problem it should be moved to the hose where it is not rigidly mounted and subject to breakage. Then at worst you would sacrifice a relatively inexpensive fitting instead of the fuse.
Any pics showing this cylinder with the fuse?
You all have my curiosity up. :) :)
i had to remove the cylinder from the mill, and drill it out. that went well, and i was able to run the tap in with my fingers.
i took the cylinder apart and cleaned out all of the shavings. I think the easy out grabbed the hole in the cylinder wall. a square one may have worked much better. I picked up one of those to have on hand. i may shorten it down just for this purpose.
now i just have to put it back together.
Dan, on the Morbark Debarker we had at work, we had a charlyn motor that drove the inbound up and down conveyor that would break the pipe nipple off in it if bark was allowed to build up under the up and down end of the conveyor. We had a square easy out modified (shortened) just for that point. The twist easy outs would never work, but the square ones, long as they dont bottom out are the best bet for pipe type fittings.
where were you yesterday when I could have used that info, Jeff! :D
Thanks for the input, guys. I'm going to modify the square one and keep in the parts box. It was frustrating, I had a spare velocity fuse, but no way to replace it, and had to toss in the towel on the job.
Dan, If you break it again, just take the mill up to Marty's and let him fix it. While you are there you can buy a new Super mill. ;D
you're *almost* as much help as Jeff, Bob....
I'd think some RustReaper would also be on the list of "must have" if it happens again. And how about the suggestion to move it onto a hose to take more abuse?
Still would like to see a pic.... ;D ;D
Quote from: Gary_C on April 25, 2009, 09:28:16 AMIf that velocity fuse is that much of a problem it should be moved to the hose where it is not rigidly mounted and subject to breakage. Then at worst you would sacrifice a relatively inexpensive fitting instead of the fuse.
Gary, the way I read this... if the hose you're talking about is really hose and not pipe... I think this would defeat the purpose of the fuse...
If the fuse were not attached directly to the cylinder, but was attached with a short hose between the fuse and the cylinder... then if that hose blew, the fuse wouldn't do its job, and the cylinder would still fall quickly under a load, as in the case of loading a log... which is (to my understanding) why they install these fuses in the first place... so no one gets crushed if a hose breaks.
WM might, however be able to install a hard pipe that comes out of the cylinder at a right angle and goes up the side of the cylinder, and then put the fuse in line there... keep the fuse more out of harm's way... but you still risk the pipe bursting and the fuse not being able to do its job. Perhaps one could design a spacer (and maybe use a slightly shorter cylinder)... a spacer that's a block that the cylinder attaches to on the bottom end, so the end of the cylinder is 6" off the ground, instead of on the ground or in the mud where it gets frozen, bashed, broken, etc. Better yet, how about using a cylinder where both ports come out near one end? That way, the fuse would be near the top end, more out of harm's way...
I don't have a WM, though... so I've never looked closely at these...
-N.
mine got broke off because the cylinder slid sideways on the pins that attach to the ends of the cylinder.
i'm back up and operational now. hopefully I won't have any more problems....
I don't think the rust reaper is much use in a case like these broken fittings because its a mechanical issue versus a corrosion issue for the most part.
Quote from: Dan_Shade on April 25, 2009, 03:52:22 PMmine got broke off because the cylinder slid sideways on the pins that attach to the ends of the cylinder.
Dan, are there supposed to be spacers in there to prevent it sliding? Is this a common thing? Got any pics?
Thanks,
-Norm.
i'd think that there should be spacers in there, but it doesn't look like woodmizer put them there.
I'll probably pick up some washers to shim it in place, i'd rather deadhead the pump if something gets jammed in there than go through all this again. broken parts cost more than just the parts to fix them :/
Norm
I see your point.
However, now when the fuse gets broken off, there is also no protection for the fuse to do it's job.
So, sounds like a toss up, whether there is higher risk of a hose breaking, or the fuse being knocked off. Sounds from the chat here, that the fuse gets broken off fairly often.
I just dealt with this issue today. My mill had a big buildup of bark, snow and ice this spring, and I must have cracked the fuse in the cylinder. I moved the mill a couple of weeks ago and set it up in a clean location and found it was leaking from that connection. Of course it broke off flush when I tried to remove it. I had to drill out the fitting to get a large enough easy out in it, so I wanted to take the cylinder apart to clean it. After removing the retaining pin, I could budge the rod from the body of the cylinder. I had to take it back up to the mill and use the hydraulics to blow it apart. I discovered that the rod was bent (the other one is, too, after inspecting it). I was able to straighten it enough in the press to get it to move freely again. The straightened cylinder goes out first, then the other one goes down. I'm sure they will move evenly with a log on it, but I need to take the other one apart now, I guess. I'm pretty sure I know what happened to them. This spring I had a pretty big log on the bed, and I had the loading arms up a ways instead of all the way down, which is normal. I raised the clamp, and it was in just the right spot to flip the log off the mill onto the loading arms. It hit really hard, but I didn't think anything of it at the time. WM wants you to have the loading arms up when turning a log, but I usually load with a forklift, so I seldom have them up. Would have been fine if they were all the way down.