Perkins shingle mill blade question

Kozzy · July 29, 2020, 05:00:30 PM

Newbie greenhorn here--We recently got a Perkins horizontal shingle mill for the local agricultural museum. It's a bit beat right now but repairable--just getting started on the disassembly. They set this on the rails of the sawmill that I'll cover in another post--and the cows pushed it off causing a few broken castings. Current photos wouldn't be helpful so I'll post them as it's restored.

However, I had a question that I thought I'd toss out. Is there any reference available for the proper blade grind on these? Since they are effectively rip cutting, I assume the grind and set would be optimized for that. On this one, the teeth look a bit larger than some of the reference photos I see online--most likely due to primarily cutting cedar in this area?

Someone was asking the purpose of the holes in the blade. On a smaller saw I've seen that for cooling and to control tension. Is that true here also? Do these blades need to be tensioned similar to standard sawmill blades?

On another post it was implied that these run a pretty high rpm (1750 IIRC). Blade is a bit over 36". Just wanted to verify for further planning on what we use to drive the saw.

I came to ask that single blade grind question...but decided I'd rather ask several stupid questions and maybe learn something so I appreciate any comments or references you can point me to on these. Many more "dumb" questions to come, I'm sure.

Thanks for the help. If I'm lucky, I'll still have all my fingers by the time we get this running properly.

Underside of the blade--the mill is currently sitting top down on a pallet.

>

Don P · July 29, 2020, 09:12:54 PM

I just looked in a reprint of the Henry Disston & Sons 1902 catalog and didn't find answers. There are 2 pages there, 1st page describes what they need from the customer when ordering a shingle saw, the second page shows and describes the set gauge for the saw. If that's of any use pm me your email and I'll scan that little bit.

From what I'm seeing the saw at least needs to go to a good shop and be regummed, the gullets are filed to square edged bottoms, that's a recipe for cracking, starting out of those square inside corners. I'd start looking for a good, old, sawdoc.

Kozzy · July 30, 2020, 11:25:49 AM

Quote from: Don P on July 29, 2020, 09:12:54 PM
I'd start looking for a good, old, sawdoc.

That was going to be a question for down the road. I see a few places that do blade work which are quite far from here but I was hoping to find one in the PNW. Possibly there is one in Sutherlin OR but their website implies smaller blades (up to 24" iirc).
With all the mills around here there should still be some "old timer" shop that does it but since mills are dropping like flies in a RAID factory, maybe virtually no one took up the trade. The nearest local larger mill is in Lewiston, ID. They have their own saw shops so I was going to speak with them to see if I could squeeze out a suggestion or recommendation. Being a project for a non-profit museum, they might be more open to sharing a bit of information.
Thanks.

moodnacreek · July 30, 2020, 09:00:46 PM

There are quite a few saw filing books out there. Mill men and filer's handy guide is one; by M. Cobel. Another is by Miner. The best is a hard cover by Hanchett. I found mine on E bay. I need to find it so I can give you the title.