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Wood use question

Started by xlogger, November 18, 2012, 05:42:25 AM

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xlogger

I'm starting my first winter year use on my Central Boiler CL5036. I got it up and going at the end of last winter and just be using it for hot water and I have an outdoor hot tub heated with it. Now that it getting cooler and really not real cold here I'm having to supply it twice a day. I'm using mostly poplar slabs now from the mill that are not real dry about 1-3 months old and some older pine. My home is about 2000 sq ft.  I know oak and hickory last longer but does it make a big differents? Just wondering how others with about the same useage do?  Ricky
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

doctorb

I think the answer is in three parts.

1.  Seasoned wood is much more efficient than wood with a high water content.  Because you will spend more energy boiling off the water in green wood, less energy is available to heat the water in your stove.  The amount of usable heat is definitely greater with seasoned fuel.
2.  Since your heat demands are not great at the moment, the length of time between OWB cycles can be pretty long.  Green wood has a much tougher time "refiring" after it sits in the idle mode.  So for heating in the non-winter months for hot water and hot tubs, your fire will go out much less often with seasoned wood.
3.  Sure, oak, locust, and other hardwoods are better than poplar and pine.  Look up a chart on BTU's per cord of wood and check out the difference between different species.  With that said, many people here on the FF burn nothing but spruce and pine.  Burn what you have available....but  season it if you can for maximum heat and efficiency.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

thecfarm

I have a Heatmor and I did a few experiments with green wood and not so dry wood,both hardwood and pine. The wood needs to be dry to get a good burn time. I found out it makes a big difference. I also noticed a big difference on how much smoke-steam it put out too. Have to get the moisture out of the wood to burn it,be it by burning or by drying.Start on next years wood now.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

xlogger

I do have some dry oak probably about 2 cords that I'm saving for colder days. Also stacking up cedar and oak slabs for next year. I'm trying to burn wood that will not last outside now like pine and poplar from the sawmill. I was just hoping only to fill the heater once a day. I go to work real early and get home late, sometimes when I get home now the temp is around 160 and I usually keep it between 175-180.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

wheelinguy

How big are the slabs and how many are you putting in?  I have a cl 6048 and live in a cooler climate than you, I burn the pine slabs off my brothers mill and in the dead of winter I have to Put wood in twice a day.  When I burn the slabs they are usually 2-4 feet long and fresh off the mill.  The rest of the time we burn 2 foot stuff, I do the same as you and save the good dry stuff for the really cold days (-20 F).   But i think that you will find checking the boiler twice a day is the way to go.  I am heating about 5,000 square feet with mine, 2 story house plus full basement, and my workshop, all radiant heat.

xlogger

The slabs range from small to having a hard time getting them in. I have a friend that has a 6048 and he gets by with once a day. His home is probably around 3000 and no hot tub. When he goes out of town I go by and fill it up for him. Probably holds near twice the wood my 5036 holds.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

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