Cooks or Baker

[cubdriver55]

Hi I have a Timber Harvester sawmill and I am looking at new mills. I like the Cooks and the Baker. The Cooks is almost identical to Timber Harvester. The Cooks uses a chain system to raise and lower the saw and Baker used a screw jack system. Which do you think is best?  Also haw are the 38 HP gas engines comparing to Diesel?  Thanks

[KenMac]

I can only testify to the Cook's AC 36. The chain lift works very well as long as the spring tension that keeps chains tight is properly adjusted. When my saw was new the left chain would jump a tooth on the sprocket when the mill head was raised to about 28 inches or so. I finally tightened the spring tension on that side and alleviated that problem. Cook's mills are very well made yet simple to understand and repair if needed. My only other issue is the computer sometimes loses its' zero while sawing and must be reset to continue. There is a solution to this in a thread on the FF somewhere. In the Cook's section, I think.
The Perkins engine provides plenty of power (67 hp) but I have had to replace the alternator at about 350 hours and the starter is bad now at 590 hours.  (I'll replace that next week.)

[Bruno of NH]

I'm in the minority 
I have the 38hp gas on a Woodmizer and like it .
Starts good and runs great 
1,600 hours on it .

[tacks Y]

I have a Baker 3665D and I do like it.

On the bad side, they run a clog belt on the head raise (turns the screws). If the belt breaks the head will drop. I did ck mine when I got it (bought used) and did not change. The screws seem like a good idea but my last mill ran a chain and it was simple. If I was building one it would be hyd motor and chain.

The set works seem like what most are using, maybe there is better now.

The log lift has to be all the way down to mill, I do like the WM arm set up.

The mill will saw and if the guide arm hits the clamp or lift arms it stops easy, not sure how low pressure on drive motor? I do like that.

After first cut you are sawing into the sawn face, I like that not sure on Cooks.

Most of the parts you can buy else where, wheel bearings on the 28" (I think) steel wheels. Which I love. Even with the large wheels the clearance over blade is not super big. But it runs big drag back fingers which I love. Everything comes back past me,so always using the drag back and 2 rollers to help at the end.

I like the chain turner, but on real small not as well.

Hope this helps, I have not seen a Cooks and this is the only Baker I have seen. I love the gear driven hydraulics and the Cummins engine. I would have ran a solenoid to run the rpms (has a pull cable) but it does give some adjustment.

 

Before I put in service to work on and look over. I for got I LOVE the big wheel for height 1" is about 3"s. The set up is not fast.

God luck.

[Bluejay27]

I have a 38hp Kohler on a WM LT40 and it's been a great motor. I upgraded from a 26hp, but have also run a 42hp Kubota. The Kubota was nicer but not enough to make me miss it.

I specifically went with the gas engine for the low weight, 120 lbs vs 400+. I run portably almost exclusively so production rate is less about engine hp anyway.

Plus my mill head is extendable to 62", so I wanted to keep the weight down with the cantilevered head. And even in the 50"+ range it saws hard maple nice and flat. 3-4 minutes to saw 8', but that's still cruising compared to a chainsaw mill. In 12" pine, it's closer to 1ft/sec (16' in 20 seconds roughly).

For stationary though, the big diesel would make more of a difference, especially throwing a heavy carriage around (the Cooks and Bakers weigh nearly double my mill).

[farmfromkansas]

I only have experience with my MP32 Cooks mill, which is a well built heavy mill, for it's size.  Has 19" band wheels and a limit of 32" diameter log.  The chain height adjustment gets to be a problem if you let it set outside and don't oil the chains.  I replaced my chains and keep it inside now.  Would jump a cog and get out of whack with the rusty chain.  The bigger  AC36 Cooks mill with hydraulic would be great, 26" band wheels, chain turner, all the goodies. All machinery does better when shedded.

[jrsloan1]

Farm from Kansas,  

Have you got a procedure for adjusting the chains?  I am having the same issue with my timber harvester and just can't get it right. 

The mill head stays in a shed and adequate lube, not jumping sprocket but it continued to get cattiewhompus every few hundred BF. 

HELP!!  Lol

[farmfromkansas]

JR Sloan, I just make sure the chains have the same number of links over the sprocket on each side.  Either oil your chains good, should use chain lube, as it has some grease in it, or replace your chain if it is changing to uneven number of links.  Mine was rusty and sticky, would not bend right when it went over the sprocket. Maybe watch it as you move it up and down. Mine would jump a link because the chain was not limber.

[jrsloan1]

I've tried counting links. Seems to be something else. Doesn't appear to be jumping. I can get it perfect and after some number of trips it's off again. When lowering, one corner, the blade drive wheel one,  will bottom out and the others settle down a little. The opposite corner the worst!! 

Strange, it doesn't affect the cut until the bottom 1-1/2"??  Weird. Must be a front to back deal mostly. 

It appears the drive shaft is 1/8" out of line with the back idlers (replaced gear box a couple years ago) I'll correct that and try again. If counting links works for you, at least I have hope!!!!

If it helps on your mill choice, I use the cooks dura tooth super sharp blades and have had good luck. I toured their factory a couple years ago. Their machines seem to be well made and heavy duty. 

Thanks again.