Lubemizer Kit

[TimW]

Anyone out there have a photo of their Lubemizer pump assembly?  I am trying to install mine and what I was sent looks like the figure they have on the pump assebly on the LX450.  It doesn't look (or fit) like the figure for the LT40HD they have in the instructions.  I bolted my pump in, but the mounting plate doesn't have a flange protecting the 1/4" hose fitting.  The drive belt, at idle, slaps the fitting.

 

Also, the guide roller block for mounting the nozzles has a rectangle hole in it, but mine is rounded with theads for the roller bolt.

 

 

 
hugs,  Brandi

[Old Greenhorn]

Well first, I would call WM on this, they should be able to answer questions accurately based on the S/n of your machine and build. But I don't think anybody is in the office at 2am. ;D
 What you have for the pump install looks nearly identical to the factory installation on the LT50 I works on 2 weeks ago. Not that's it's a issue for you so much, but when those little check valves freeze, they split. I had to work on the one in the rear of your photo. Anyway, I did notice how close that 1/4" tube is to the drive belt, but it is tied up a little further down the line and is held up just enough to miss. There sure isn't a lot of room in there to work on anything is there? Even less fun when it's 10° and the wind is a-blowin'.

 Sorry, I can't help you with the output end. I'd have to drive to the mill and take pictures, which I may be able to do this afternoon, but I think WM can help you before I can get back and post anything. 
 Good luck, it's a nice upgrade. Don't let it freeze, that sucks. Those two check valves, by the way are different pressure values and one has male threads and the other female. I had to replace the far one with a straight coupling to get us running and now the system drips all the time unless I shut off the tank. Waiting for the spares to arrive and we ordered extras.
 Let us know how your progress is going.

[TimW]

Thanks OGH.  I always follow up with WM.  But like you said, they were closed.  Just wanted to see if I could have gotten a photo or two here first.

My Lubemizer "kit" contained the wrong revision of instructions on how to install the "kit".  It also had the wrong (revised last year) pump mounting plate.  This figure here.......

 .........shows how the correct plate protects the 1/4" fitting from the drive belt.

As to the last photo in my first post, above, WM told me to throw that black bracket away.  They showed me the way to install the nozzles and hose fitting, that the instructions I had didn't show.

The "kit" suppose to come with a 90 degree fitting for the 3/8" hose.  It didn't have it and is backordered.  But I found some at my Tractor Supply store.

So, it seems, I will have all I need later next week to finish this install.  This "kit" was suppose to plug and play, but so far it is plug and pray (for WM to furnish the correct parts).
hugs,  Brandi

[Old Greenhorn]

Sorry for your troubles and a little surprised too.
 Yes, that bracket shown in the diagram in your last post is exactly what I found in the LT50 and let me tell you it can be a bear to get the check valve fitting apart and replaced, especially with frozen fingers. I guess that's why we don't have an issue with the hose rub. It's not a lot of fun working up in there and there is no comfortable position to stand in and no room for your (my) hands.
 Sounds like you are on the right track now.

[Magicman]

Brandi, even though you live in the 'tropics', now would be a good time to revisit and insure that you have enough antifreeze in your lube jug.

[Dave Shepard]

I just went to the sawmill and shook my lube jub. Still perfectlly liquid at 6°. 8)

[TimW]

Sorry for your troubles and a little surprised too.
Yes, that bracket shown in the diagram in your last post is exactly what I found in the LT50 and let me tell you it can be a bear to get the check valve fitting apart and replaced, especially with frozen fingers. I guess that's why we don't have an issue with the hose rub. It's not a lot of fun working up in there and there is no comfortable position to stand in and no room for your (my) hands.
Sounds like you are on the right track now.

At least the height is adjustable.  If I ever the R&R check valves, I will pull the whole pump assembly.  Just two nuts hold the whole shubang in place.
hugs,  Brandi

[TimW]

Brandi, even though you live in the 'tropics', now would be a good time to revisit and insure that you have enough antifreeze in your lube jug.

Enough?  I don't have any antifreeze in the tank right now.  But I will.  I mean, it's cold here.  It got down to 31 this morning.
hugs,  Brandi

[TimW]

Brandi, even though you live in the 'tropics', now would be a good time to revisit and insure that you have enough antifreeze in your lube jug.

Guess we are too far south and spring is right next door.  Walmart, and everywhere else I looked only had WWF down to 32 degrees.
                    hugs,   Brandi

[TimW]

Good luck, it's a nice upgrade. Don't let it freeze, that sucks. Those two check valves, by the way are different pressure values and one has male threads and the other female.

One is threaded fitting and one is barbed.  That stops murphying it up and getting the 3 and 6 psi valves swapped.
hugs,  Brandi

[TimW]

I ops checked the lubemizer today.  It all worked as intended.

FYI for anyone adding the lubemizer kit.................WM has the wiring diagram wrong on attaching the pump wiring to the drum switch terminal #3.  It goes on terminal #2.  If you are lucky like I was, there is a quick disconnect already to #2 terminal and you don't have to remove that hard to get to screw to add a wire on the drum switch.  This is wrong in your option manual also.

With the autoclutch engaged, the drive belt clears the pump mounting plate flange by about 1/3 of an inch.

There is no room to install the hose from the lube jug under the cover panel as WM shows it in the manual.  Save you some time and grief and cut out the corner of the panel and install the WM supplied chafe trim to the cut out.

 

 
hugs,  Brandi

[Magicman]

That looks nice.  

I had to replace my pump motor this week so I got a reminder of just how tight everything is in that space.  

I mostly use RV antifreeze which goes down to either -50° or -100° depending upon the brand.

[stanmillnc]

I just finished installing my Lube-mizer a couple weeks ago and also encountered issues. The installation manual instruction was not accurate for my machine and there was some guess work in figuring out how to get it to work, but all's well that ends well I suppose.

[TimW]

That looks nice.  

I had to replace my pump motor this week so I got a reminder of just how tight everything is in that space.  

I mostly use RV antifreeze which goes down to either -50° or -100° depending upon the brand.

Oh, the manual mentions windshield washer fluid.  So I will look into antifreeze.  Thanks MM.
hugs,  Brandi

[TimW]

I have been sawing, with the lubemizer kit humming nicely, for a few hours now.  WHY DID I WAIT SO LONG TO PUT THE KIT ON?
I love it and it appears to make my sawing "more" straighter.  Seems to help the blade stay sharper longer.

Anyone else fine unexpected results from adding a lubemizer kit?
   hugs,  Brandi

[Magicman]

Several months ago you asked whether the LubeMizer was worth the cost.  My reply at that time was that 'economical wise' no, but 'convenience wise' absolutely.  A LubeMizer was the very first option/upgrade that I added to my sawmill after I bought it.  Enjoy. 

[boonesyard]

Are many operators running a lubemizer where it gets cold? If so, what kind of a mixture are you running? I'd like to add one, but the subzero weather up here has kept me from adding it. We run a mixture of water, RV antifreeze and pine sol that works very well, but when it gets stupid cold and forget to take the tank and line inside, it will get slushy and stiff. I suppose we could run straight RV antifreeze during the real cold months, hmmmm, maybe I just talked myself in to it. 
 

[Andries]

Windsheild washer fluid, either the -20 or -40 degree rated, won't ever freeze up on you.
Most of my milling is oak, ash and elm in the last three years. Before that, it was Western Red Cedar and the washer fluid worked well for all of those.
I've trailered my mill to Ontario for pine and fir, and found that a squirt bottle of diesel on the blade kept the pitch from building up.

[GAB]

In cold temps I keep the lube jug where it is warm, and the last thing I do is run about 10 ounces of RV antifreeze through the pump as I shut down for the day.  Haven't lost a pump since.  
GAB

[caveman]

We don't have a lubemizer but we do have some new lubemizer guides in our parts stash.  Have any of you used fuel pump and some kind of rheostat to control the pulse or flow?  We have been sawing some really sappy stuff lately and it would probably be prudent to buy the lubemizer or create an effective alternative.  

Today, we started reswawing a gooseneck load of 3"x8"x16' and 3"x6"x16' extra dry heart pine boards.  We will resume on Friday.  These are dry, dirty and full of sap.

Right now, I keep a water bottle full of diesel near the controls to clean the blade every few cuts.

We have also been sawing a good amount of slash, longleaf and the occasional live oak.  All of these provide copious amounts of pitch.

[Southside]

If you end up rigging something up just use the top sprayer and plug off the bottom one, it really does nothing except use more fuel. 

[Magicman]

Search for 12 volt Diesel primer pump and you should find one for less than $20 that will work.  I see several on eBay.

You will need to design a control circuit that will allow you to control the pulses.

[barbender]

 I use a spray bottle when necessary, but it's kinda embarrassing when you're trying to make production. And I'm not sawing heart pine, either! 

 I bought the parts (a 12 volt solenoid, normally closed and a momentary push button switch) that I haven't got around to installing yet on my mill. I plan to just tap into the return line from my diesel engine, and when things start to gum up a bit just give a push on the button.

[caveman]

Thank you for the insight.  Those are good suggestions.

[YellowHammer]

You don't neccessarily need a sprayer when using diesel, all you need is a drip on the top of the band every few seconds, preferably onto a wiper before the roller guide.  I would simply install an on/off solenoid or even a manual  with 1/4" PEX or stiff nylon tube, and have it plumbed right to the Lubemizer fittings, you already have, gravity fed, and if at all possible, make it drip on the guide before the roller guide so that the drop will be squished and spread out on the band and roller, cleaning both. I installed a manual 1/4 ball valve in the line just to control line anyway, so I could just shut the nozzles off because the Lubemize check valve system always seems to drip and leak anyway.

The biggest problem will be slowing the drip rate down, so if you can plumb it to a felt wiper, that will help.  I can't tell you how many times I mill with the Lubemizer turned off because the LT70 on setting 1 is still too fast, and I simply use the diesel that is still in the line, gravity dripping down to the nozzle and dripping into the band.    

The good thing is if you plumb that up and it doesn't apply enough diesel, you can always break the line and put in a pump later, but would look at some kind of super low flow pump.  To visualize how much diesel is needed, imagine an IV drip line, except rated for diesel.  On of those may even work, because the drip rate can be so easily controlled.