Milling Sheds - Hard Lessons

[rmack]

I was going to ask Bibby about his milling shed, and what he would do different if he were to build a new one, then thought maybe it would be better to start a new thread and get as wide a range of thoughts as possible.

Anything I need to know before I start thinking of a design for mine? I don't have any plans for milling long timbers, but would prefer not close that door before I even get started. Okay, there's an idea... sliding door to allow for wider log opening.

If there is a roll case coming off the back (license plate end) of the mill, that could also function as bed extension?

Is a 16' building going to be wide enough?

open or doors at each end.

how high does the roof/end openings need to be to allow ventilation of diesel fumes?

I need to be able to secure the building (lockup)

Build it long enough to put an edger in line with the lt40 such that the dragback will feed straight into an edger? I have walk along controls.

Cants off the back of the mill seems to be a workable arrangement. I haven't looked real close for a place to put it on my mill yet, but have seen european lt80's with live roll with coleman inserts to power the cants off .

[CalebL]

I built a 30'x40' shop and added a 20'x40' lean to shed with on the side.  I cut 8"x8" white oak posts 16' long and put them 4' in the ground.  I spanned the 40' with 2"x18" LVLs doubled up.  I spanned the 20' with 2"x12"s joists for my ceiling.  My actual clearance for my sawmill head is just under 11'.  That way I have a lot of open spaces to move logs and equipment around without dodging posts. 

The reason I went 20' is so I could have my mill far enough under roof to miss rain and still be able to drive my skidsteer between the building and the mill and be able to clear out sawdust.  I don't have an edger but 40' would give you enough room to put an edger under there also.  I park my skidsteer under the roof also and still have room for a small trailer.

Sorry I don't have a better pic than this but I will try and get some this evening. 




 

[pineywoods]

Lesson number 1   it's impossible to build a sawshed that's too big

[Satamax]

Lesson number 1   it's impossible to build a sawshed that's too big

How much are you ready to bet?  ;D





I mean if you bet enough money, that i can build too big a sawmill shed with, i'm game. Pretty sure i could prove that wrong  ;D

[CalebL]

Another thing I forgot to mention.  Don't forget to put a rain gutter up on your shed.  You will thank me after a big rain. 

[rooster 58]

   I'm pondering the same thing right now. Trying to think about expansion and what not. Maybe i'll just build a 30x60 or something similar, then if I get to needing more room I'll turn that into lumber storage :-\

[rmack]

the problem I keep running into is what to do about ventilation. I know from previous experience with a diesel welding machine trying to work inside a building, they put off an incredible amount of fumes.

maybe it might be better to simply focus on getting a roof overtop of the milling area and buy a shipping container or something like that to put the mill in when not being used...

[beenthere]

Go to Arkansawyer 's photos and threads about the mill sheds he built. Good ventilation at the top, and he had a shed plan that was simple and easy to add length to as he grew (unfortunate end results losing all to a banker, but that doesn't negate his ideas).

Wanda's (his mills name) new shed

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,23212.msg330218.html#msg330218

[pineywoods]

Lesson number 1   it's impossible to build a sawshed that's too big

How much are you ready to bet?  ;D

I mean if you bet enough money, that i can build too big a sawmill shed with, i'm game. Pretty sure i could prove that wrong  ;D

Oh, I can, and did build one that was plenty big enough. Problem is, they tend to shrink over time.  ;) Built mine plenty big to house the mill, but then I needed a place to put the tractor out of the weather. Now I need some place to put my sharpener and setter. Added a sawdust blower system that now sticks out in the rain. Given enough time, they all shrink down to where they aren't big enough.. Same thing applies to work shops..

[mjl_2007]

the problem I keep running into is what to do about ventilation. I know from previous experience with a diesel welding machine trying to work inside a building, they put off an incredible amount of fumes.

maybe it might be better to simply focus on getting a roof overtop of the milling area and buy a shipping container or something like that to put the mill in when not being used...

I run my LT50 diesel inside a 40x80 sawmill shed. I attached a 25 foot flexible exhaust pipe to the muffler that I bought from an auto store and have it attached to a puilly that runs on a cable above the mill. The cable runs the full distance of the mill. I just run the exhaust pipe out a window. Its been working good for me.

Another word of advice...if you build it twice as big as you think you need, it will still be too small in the future....

[flyboy16101]

I am also designing a mill shed the plan is to build a lean too off of the side of the garage the problem I keep running into is how to span the opening to load the logs through which I was planning to be about 22 ft and have it be able to with stand the snow load we get here in pa some years only an inch or so and others a foot or two. I was woundering how you all have over come this problem.

[rmack]

I am also designing a mill shed the plan is to build a lean too off of the side of the garage the problem I keep running into is how to span the opening to load the logs through which I was planning to be about 22 ft and have it be able to with stand the snow load we get here in pa some years only an inch or so and others a foot or two. I was woundering how you all have over come this problem.

I was thinking either a Pratt or Warren truss, made out of something like 4x4's, should go 40' or more if built tall enough.

[Kingcha]

I will be getting my first Mill this spring and since I want it covered I have decided that for now the easiest way to go is to is metal for now.   http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/versatubes-carports-shelters/metal-carports-shelters-frame-only/24w-x-18l-x-8-5h-storage-shelter-frame/p-1441914-c-5865.htm

I have a number of spots to put the mill but since I will be new to it, I am just not sure where I want it.  This will allow me to start using the mill right away and then decide later what I need and where to build it.   After ready this thread I am thinking a lean to on my polebarn might be the trick.   I can always use the temp builing for a lot of uses.  I will also then have time to mill & dry my lumber for my mill shed.

[WH_Conley]

Keep in mind the prevailing winds. You will want your back to the wind.

[Satamax]

Lesson number 1   it's impossible to build a sawshed that's too big

How much are you ready to bet?  ;D

I mean if you bet enough money, that i can build too big a sawmill shed with, i'm game. Pretty sure i could prove that wrong  ;D

Oh, I can, and did build one that was plenty big enough. Problem is, they tend to shrink over time.  ;) Built mine plenty big to house the mill, but then I needed a place to put the tractor out of the weather. Now I need some place to put my sharpener and setter. Added a sawdust blower system that now sticks out in the rain. Given enough time, they all shrink down to where they aren't big enough.. Same thing applies to work shops..

If for a proper pro sawmill operation, never go under 20000sqft ;D My future shed will be about 90M² or 900sqf aproximately which will have to accomodate the saw and bunks, rails etc. The crane in the winter, and may be if i can squeze it, the 3.5 tonner truck. it will be open hangar style. With a 560sqft workshop on one end. Workshop will have two doors each end, so i can use long timbers. The slab next to the saw will have to be smooth, to be able to trace the trusses on the floor. And then on top of the workshop, A 90m² flat with a terace. I can't afford to make it any bigger. https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,57682.msg848424.html#msg848424

[rimshot]

If and when I build a saw shed it will have something more subtantial for posts.  No 4 X4's         ALLOWED.  4 X4's just don't have the strength to avoid shake. I know I would not like the shake in the building.  I want 5 X5's or better yet 6 X 6"s.  Probably store bought Wolmanized because I do not have extra bed to cut beyond  the length of 11' 4s" and those posts need to be at least 42" in ground so I'm thinking 12' or 14' posts of 6 x 6

I believe i will slam together some nice 4 or 5 /12 trusses however and they mjight be on 48" centers with a steel pole panel or a clear panel ribbed plastic to increase ambient light.  It just might have a mixture of both.  Gotta have some daylight to see my board thickness.  I have to stay under 200 square feet or I'm subject to a building permit.  This can be considered a yard storage building.

[WH_Conley]

rimshot. Just as something to think about and check into. A few years back the Feds, through the Farm Service Agency, was funding hay sheds. Basically posts with short walls and a roof. One fellow wanted a longer one, so, the next year when it came around again he applied. They turned him down because it could only be so long. He read the specs and built the new one in line with the old one, 6 inches taller and 6 inches overlap. He was approved. I don't know how this would work for you.

[rimshot]

rimshot. Just as something to think about and check into. A few years back the Feds, through the Farm Service Agency, was funding hay sheds. Basically posts with short walls and a roof. One fellow wanted a longer one, so, the next year when it came around again he applied. They turned him down because it could only be so long. He read the specs and built the new one in line with the old one, 6 inches taller and 6 inches overlap. He was approved. I don't know how this would work for you.

================

Thanks WH_Conley,  I'll have to look into that.

rim

[rmack]

If and when I build a saw shed it will have something more subtantial for posts.  No 4 X4's         ALLOWED.  4 X4's just don't have the strength to avoid shake. I know I would not like the shake in the building.  I want 5 X5's or better yet 6 X 6"s.  Probably store bought Wolmanized because I do not have extra bed to cut beyond  the length of 11' 4s" and those posts need to be at least 42" in ground so I'm thinking 12' or 14' posts of 6 x 6

I believe i will slam together some nice 4 or 5 /12 trusses however and they mjight be on 48" centers with a steel pole panel or a clear panel ribbed plastic to increase ambient light.  It just might have a mixture of both.  Gotta have some daylight to see my board thickness.  I have to stay under 200 square feet or I'm subject to a building permit.  This can be considered a yard storage building.

don't know if you were responding to my post? I was refering to material for truss. 4x4 might even be slight overkill for that. Any structure needs knee braces or something similar, regardless of post dimensions.

Lots of people put posts right in the ground, I wouldn't do it. When I build something, I would like it to last as long as possible, and I know that posts sunk in the ground eventually rot off, at least where I live... so, for anything other than doghouse/outhouse I always go from concrete up.

[rimshot]

If and when I build a saw shed it will have something more subtantial for posts.  No 4 X4's         ALLOWED.  4 X4's just don't have the strength to avoid shake. I know I would not like the shake in the building.  I want 5 X5's or better yet 6 X 6"s.  Probably store bought Wolmanized because I do not have extra bed to cut beyond  the length of 11' 4s" and those posts need to be at least 42" in ground so I'm thinking 12' or 14' posts of 6 x 6

I believe i will slam together some nice 4 or 5 /12 trusses however and they mjight be on 48" centers with a steel pole panel or a clear panel ribbed plastic to increase ambient light.  It just might have a mixture of both.  Gotta have some daylight to see my board thickness.  I have to stay under 200 square feet or I'm subject to a building permit.  This can be considered a yard storage building.

don't know if you were responding to my post? I was refering to material for truss. 4x4 might even be slight overkill for that. Any structure needs knee braces or something similar, regardless of post dimensions.

Lots of people put posts right in the ground, I wouldn't do it. When I build something, I would like it to last as long as possible, and I know that posts sunk in the ground eventually rot off, at least where I live... so, for anything other than doghouse/outhouse I always go from concrete up.

===============

I was talking about corner posts for supporting the roof at sides and corner.  I agree that the building would be best served with some tubes and concrete for support and would probably do it that way myself.  It's almost as cheap to poor a concrete tube then to pay premium for extra post length length of post. 
Even this cedar around here rots below ground around here and I agree best get it out of the hole.

rimshot

[red]

search Cheap Roof Maybe by member Hiya  12 ft tall wooden hoops

[Peter Drouin]

I use steel for a header 45' long, It will take the snow load



  

 

hope this helps  ;)

[beenthere]

Peter
Nice shed.
Is that rolled roofing on top?  Interesting pattern.

[rmack]

That's a nice looking building, Peter.  8)

I'll guess the walls are 14' high? about 20'x 75' footprint?

That beam over the opening looks like a wide flange, how heavy is it? W12x?

have you closed it in at all since you took the pictures? I guess the diesel fumes aren't an issue with all that open space. that sure looks nice!

[rooster 58]

    The "roofing" looks like titanium paper, used as a vapor barrier beneath shingles or metal