Kickback, Low Kickback and No Kickback Chains

[MartyKaras]

Trying to find the truths between chains, best for overall cutting, soft wood, hard wood and pruning. I have always used a low Kickback chain, but notice (I guess they are called hardwood chains?) have a much more agressive cut. which is the best overall (if there is such a thing). Is it true that low Kickback chains tend to stay cleaner in soft wood? I was planning to get a hardwood chain to use overall, assuming in most type of wood and pruning it would make the quickest cuts. I don't recall ever seeing a chain get "gummed" up from softwood to the point I would have to stop and clean the chain, again only used Low Kickback chains.

[John_Boisselier]

The primary reason for low kickback chain is just what it says, low kickback, i.e. safety.  It runs hotter usually because most of these chains have more rub surface area than a full pro chain.  This has therefore more of a tendency to gum up than standard chain.  You must be doing a good job of maintaining an edge on your chain if this hasn't been a problem.   I have never seen a safety chain that would cut even close to a well filed and maintained full pro chisel chain.  If you are familiar with your saw and use it properly and safely, you will get far more production out of it with pro chisel chain than with any of the safety chains.  There may be a higher risk with the pro chains, but if you truly practise proper stance and saw technique, you are in my opinion far better off with an unencumbered chain to accomplish real work with this tool.  The downside of a faster wood cutting chain is that it can be a faster meat cutting chain too.  Keep it in the wood and away from you.  Always have fun.

[jokers]

What John said, with a few additional thoughts added.

Typically a low kickback chain is also a semi chisel chain, meaning that the outside edge and working corner are rounded versus the squared corner of a chisel chain. But not all semi chisel is safety chain.

The semi chisel will hold an edge slightly longer in less than perfectly clean wood and it also seems to make a cleaner cut in the bark of a branch collar if you are pruning, but a sharp chisel chain has it hands down when it comes to performance. All of the added features of a safety chain such as ramped depth gauges and humps on the tie strap not only add power robbing friction, but also impede chip clearance which is a significant factor in cutting speed.

Remember, there is no substitute for the proper safety attitude and practices and PPE.

Russ

[SasquatchMan]

Marty, when I bought my Stihl last year, I couldn't believe the ugly leg-eating chain that was on it.  I was used to the semi-chisel saftey chain on my poulan.  Now, as mentioned, the semi-chisel will take more abuse - they don't need to be razor sharp to cut.  The poulan cuts a lot of drywall and brush.  I can hardly make that saw kick back.  

The full chisel cuts a million times better, but it does grab a bit more.   As mentioned, learn how to safely use the saw, get some PPE, and keep your respect for the machine, and you'll do fine.

I think if I was plunge-cutting a lot of big trees I might go to a less aggressive chain.  But for my needs, firewood mostly, the full chisel is by far the best.

[jokers]

.....I think if I was plunge-cutting a lot of big trees I might go to a less aggressive chain.  But for my needs, firewood mostly, the full chisel is by far the best.

You`ll find that the degree of difficulty in plunging with safety chain ranges from slightly more difficult than non-safety to impossible depending on the safety features built into a chain. The more that the space between cutters is filled, the more difficult plunging becomes. I`ve found Oregon Vanguard to be a good chain with some safety built in. It will still buck your leg off in a heartbeat!

Russ

[SasquatchMan]

Russ I think they'll all take your leg off in a heartbeat, won't they?  

If you're used to a full chisel, putting the safety chain (and its requisite safety bar) on a saw makes it feel broken.  I got used to cutting with a safety chain, so the RS chain still dazzles me.  You can't do things fast with the safety chain on, but you sure can do some goofy stuff and get away with it.  I'm living proof.

[MartyKaras]

Are there variations of safety chain for the Stihl or is it all or nothing.. I have decided to get the MS260 (non pro version), but have to tell the dealer what type of chain (18") I would like. I have been leaning toward a full chisel, but I may end up with both so I can swap as needed.. don't suspect there is any tuning adjustments on the carb when switching chain types due to a different load?

[rebocardo]

Just my $0.02.

If you are cutting < 20 inch trees then safety chain is fine along with with the 20" bar. I have safety chain and 72v for most of my loops up to 28". It is not going to slow it down that much.

Though recently I have bought semi skip/full skip chain for some 28 inch loops for doing big wood, it really makes the saw fly compared to the safety chain and is much faster. I use it to split big wood already down.

I avoid using it for tree felling though when my legs are in line with the saw for the notch when I am cutting trees bigger then 26 inches, in case I bury the nose. When felling a tree you are not exactly out of the way of the saw if it kicks back and you are not in the best position to control a severe kickback.

When you are trying to line up a kerf from both sides of a tree that is 36+ inches with a 28 inch bar, it is easy to hit the danger zone of the bar, especially on the ones close to double your bar length.

For an 18 inch saw I would go safety chain all the way. I would avoid the .325 and go 3/8 for a better choice of chains and because the .325 safety chain usually has these long bumpers that make sharpening chains tough. Plus, the .325 chain has shorter cutters so the chains do not last as long.

On my .325 safety chains I filed the cutters to 35 degrees and it made them much faster in the oak.

[Erick]

Marty,
      I would disagree with Rebocardo on the point about the 3/8 chain. I have the MS260 pro with the 18" bar and chain and it is a really nice saw   (you will be happy). I would stick with the .325 chain though. The 3/8 seems to be to much chain and takes some power out of the saw to run it (so I'm told, see the thread that I started about the 260/026). I read your thread and personaly think you made the right choice with the MS260 it is an excellent saw for its size and should give you many years of great service. I run the full chisel (RS) on mine and love it I also have a safety (RM2) loop that came with the saw and a simi chisel (RM) loop that I use for dirty wood it's a little slower than the RS  but seems to stay sharp longer in the dirt. I would recomend you to get the safety loop and run it until you get more familier with your new saw and then run the other two as needed. The RS full chisel is definatly the fastest cutter but it will also grab alot more and can cause the saw to kick and pull alot harder. Good luck with your new saw and remember theres no substitut for safe saw practices even the best safety chain can remove a limb.    see signature line below  ;)