thinning a small woodlot

[Greg]

I've got 3 or 4 acres of a fairly mature woodlot with a nice mix of species. Its on a north facing, gentle slope, and other than a few patches of multiflora rose thorns, I am happy with it.

However, there are ~ 12 to 15 trees that are either mature or defective, with forks, tops blown out, or other problems (tulip poplar, white pine, elm, locust) I'd like to harvest/thin out to open up the canopy a bit, and release some well formed smaller trees.

I am quite experienced with a chainsaw, but I also know I am not skilled or trained enough to climb and remove large trees safely in fairly tight spaces without creating alot of damage.

Given most tree service outfits want an arm and a leg for a single tree removal, I can't imagine hiring them do a selective thinning like this economically.

Is there a realistic/affordable way to thin out small woodlots? Are there climbers/loggers available at hourly rates or will bid out a small job like this? How much is a reasonable/realistic price for this type of work?

Thanks,
Greg

[Bro. Noble]

If a large tree is of no ,  or little value: it can be deadened and left stand.  It becomes useful for birds and wildlife,  and the dead limbs fall strait down doing little damage to surrounding trees.

If the tree is of value,  most of them can be dropped by someone that knows how to put them where they want them to fall,  and do very little long term damage to the surrounding trees.

[Ron Wenrich]

Is this part of your homesite?  In most cases, climbing trees and removing limbs is not the recommended methods for thinning woodlots. 

Value in hardwoods is pretty well dependent on species, size and quality.  The higher quality stuff is usually about 18" and larger.  For me, I can put my arms around an 18" tree and my fingers touch.  Anything larger, and my fingers don't touch.  Good rule-of-thumb.

Trees need room for their crowns to expand in order to remain healthy and have good growth.  Trees that have crowded crowns should be thinned in order to allow the remaining trees ample room for crown expansion.  The remaining ones are called crop trees. 

Trees below the canopy are usually surpressed.  That means they didn't quite make it too the top with all the other trees.  Although they may be straight, quite often they are just as old as the trees in the overstory.  They don't respond quite as well to release as a tree that is already in the overstory.

But, it seems like you have a good eye for trees that may need to be removed.  As pointed out, you can kill them by girdling them with a chainsaw. 

If you have a use, such as firewood or having them cut into lumber, then I would get someone to cut them down for you.  You may be able to find a local logger that will drop them for a fee. 

12-15 trees is not enough to muster up much interest in someone logging the stand.  A cutter can cut those down in a few hours.  Cost shouldn't be more than a couple of hundred dollars.  Money well spent if you don't have the experience to drop them.

[Pullinchips]

If you are not confident enough to drop them you can girdle them like said.  If all you want to do is kill them i would just girldel them.  Just cut a 1/4 to 1/2 deep or enough to get through the bark and cambium, around the tree and wait.  Tough trees like sweetgum need to be girdled twice about a foot apart to ensure death.  They will die and limbs will tend to fall straight down with little damage and then the main bole will follow years latter in a wind storm.  Just remember to watch your head around these trees especially in windy conditions as big limbs will start to fall out in a year or two dependingh on species. 

This method is also more beneficial to wildlife as feeding trees for insectivores and as perches for raptors and also for cavitie trees for various woodpeckers.

-Nate

[Greg]

Thanks for the suggestions.

The smaller locusts I am comfortable dropping myself and will use for firewood.

I will girdle some of the other junk trees as suggested.

Most of these are not saw log diameters, but I do intend make use of several of the white pine and poplar logs to mill beams for my timberframe projects.

The only ones large enough for saw logs woudl be a few of the elms. Some are dead standing already and I bet have significant rot. Probably not worth the effort to drag them out of there and hire my local woodmizer guy for just 2 or 3 elm logs. I guess its dutch elm disease really doing a number on these trees. I think I have only a handful of healthy elms left.

If I could find someone to precisely take down these 10 or so other trees for a "couple hundred bucks" I'd do it in a minute. Just a matter of finding that someone!

Greg

[Ron Wenrich]

Contact a local mill.  I'll bet they have someone willing to do a little moonlighting if it doesn't involve dragging in anything more than a saw.

If you do have Dutch elm, those standing dead will eventually lead to killing the rest.  The fungi rides on a beetle and when the beetle bores a live tree, the fungus goes along for the trip.

[Dana]

Thanks for the info on how Dutch Elm spreads, Ron. I have several dead ones standing and had considered them to be my emergency reserve of firewood. I will be cutting them done soon now.