iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Need trailer advice for moving logs

Started by Brad_bb, October 17, 2014, 12:54:09 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

mikeb1079

this is an example of why this is a good discussion imho:

Quotelast Sunday I hauled a friends new 6500lb skid steer 250 miles it worked great.

if the skidloader was 6500 and the trailer was 1500 that's 8k.  his axles are only rated for 7k, so he was overweight.  not trying to pick nits but i used to be in the camp of "whatever fits on the trailer it can haul", now i know better.  not saying your buddy was irresponsible i just think it's a good discussion in that it makes us all aware of the weight ratings/capabilities of our equipment.
that's why you must play di drum...to blow the big guys mind!
homebuilt 16hp mill
99 wm superhydraulic w/42hp kubota

justallan1

I bought this trailer about the same time that I bought my mill and it works good for the money. It's built tough enough to hook my ramps anywhere on the rails and use the winch, or just roll the smaller ones by hand. It has about 30" high rails and I use 8' ramps.
Unloading is another story. I generally put a choker on one end and just pull, if it gets scratched, it just does.
I wouldn't want to have to use my ½ton truck (1997 f-150 4x4 automatic) pulling this other than just short distances, on pavement, and going slow. I just don't feel it has the stability for cornering and getting pushed around by a load.
Allan


 

drobertson

Brad,  I believe you would be happier in the long run with one like you last posted.  The deck overs are just easier to deal with, loading lumber and logs alike.  Not sure what length you need, but a 16' is a good all around length.  Finding one heavy enough and built well but not over kill is the tricky part.
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

kelLOGg

Brad, I parbuckle with a 9000 lb MileMarker SEC8 winch. If you decide to use a winch get one with power-in AND power-out. My winch instructions say not use the power-out for more than 10 seconds or the brake will burn out. Bummer. Trying to freespool my SEC8 as I purchased it took far more effort than I thought was reasonable so I replaced the heavy grease in the gear case with 30W motor oil (per MileMarker's recommendation). It is still no walk in the park to freespol but is a lot easier.

BTW, parbuckling is nice. I can roll a log onto either side of my trailer via 8' ramps. Ckeck out my gallery.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

stumpy

In My opinion, landscape trailers or another name "car haulers" All work fine, but here's the problem.  They all have 3500# axles.  That's 7000#  capacity.  Minus the weight of the trailer you have a capacity of 5000#.  I have owned 2 of these and here are the 3 main problems.  1) the fenders. After dealing with lifting loads over them, you begin to really hate them. Not to mention the loss of bed width. 2) When you look at all that wide open space, you begin to think of all the things that can fit on there instead of thinking about how much weight I should carry. This leads to number 3) After abusing the trailer for a while, you begin to notice how wobbly and noisy it is and realize that the shackle and bushing on the springs are worn out and possibly some spring leafs.
These are not just my ideas, they are all things that I learned first-hand form using those trailers for years. I know many people use them safely and don't overload them, but you have to be cautious.  One last benefit of spending a bit more for a 10000# deck-over, is that when you're done with it it won't be all worn out and still hold most of it's resale value.
Woodmizer LT30, NHL785 skidsteer, IH 444 tractor

Dave Shepard

Quote from: mikeb1079 on October 19, 2014, 01:27:47 AM
this is an example of why this is a good discussion imho:

Quotelast Sunday I hauled a friends new 6500lb skid steer 250 miles it worked great.

if the skidloader was 6500 and the trailer was 1500 that's 8k.  his axles are only rated for 7k, so he was overweight.  not trying to pick nits but i used to be in the camp of "whatever fits on the trailer it can haul", now i know better.  not saying your buddy was irresponsible i just think it's a good discussion in that it makes us all aware of the weight ratings/capabilities of our equipment.

Don't forget tongue weight. You can transfer 10 percent on a bumper hitch and 15 with a gooseneck. Although I bet that trailer is 3, 000.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Brad_bb

Looking at Deck over trailers on HHtrailer.com and here are their options and weights:


 
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

backwoods sawyer

Quote from: justallan1 on October 19, 2014, 07:29:45 AM
I wouldn't want to have to use my ½ton truck (1997 f-150 4x4 automatic) pulling this other than just short distances, on pavement, and going slow. I just don't feel it has the stability for cornering and getting pushed around by a load.
Allan

Half ton trucks run tires with lighter duty side walls so you get more side shift in corners and roads are not all straigh, trailers push and not all driver are willing to share the road the way they should. When you have to make an unexpsected manuver you want the truck and trailer to respond together. 

If you are going to be hauling big loads use a truck big enough for the task. If you are going to use the half ton get a trailer that matches its ability.

You don't want to be the reason the road is shut down :'(
Backwoods Custom Milling Inc.
100% portable. . Oregons largest portable sawmill service, serving all of Oregon, from our Backwoods to yours..sawing since 1991

kelLOGg

Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

36 coupe

You need a bigger truck.My old 3/4 ton has bigger tires,axle,brakes and suspension.If you haul a lot of logs a car hauler with a tilt body and a winch would be best.It may even pay to have someone haul your logs.I use a log arch to haul logs a half mile with a tractor.Slow but sure.

dboyt

I couldn't find a suitable trailer, so I just bought one with a decent frame, welded in heavier crossmembers, installed a pair of 7,000 pound axles, and decked it with 2" white oak.  It has a 2-5/16 hitch.  Trailer brakes are critical.  I pull it with a 3/4 ton Chevy, and starting is usually no problem, but I'm more worried about stopping it in a timely manner.  Activating the trailer brakes separately also helps straighten things out, if the trailer decides it wants to pass you on the side.  Required over a certain gross weight in most states.

I parbuckle logs up the side, same as KelLOGg.  Works fine.
Norwood MX34 Pro portable sawmill, 8N Ford, Lewis Winch

WIwoodworker

I have used a car hauler for a number of years to move logs and lumber along with a Dodge 1/2 ton 2wd pickup. It has an 8000lb Warne electric  winch and I drag the logs up a ramp and do not parbuckle but probably should. All in all it has done everything I asked it to but not without the annoyances mentioned by others regarding the fenders and weight limits and not without significant wear on the trailer and the truck.

I replaced the truck recently with a Chevy 2500 diesel and my next purchase will be a 10,000lb deck over. If you are going to haul more than a few loads a year I'd say get the deck over now. You'll be glad you did.
Peterson 9" WPF

Thank You Sponsors!