how would i go about starting pears from seed?i don't know what variety of pear they are but they are old trees (from my grandfathers home place)
any help would be appreciated.
Any time I try to start seed, I just prepare a nice seed bed outside and plant the seeds spaced about 4" apart, then cover with a layer of mulch (thick mulch for large seeds, like nuts and buckeyes, and a thin layer for smaller seeds like pears). I've yet to be unsuccessful. However, in your case, I would urge you to consider starting your plants from cuttings rather than seed. If the pears are an improved variety, then the seedlings are not likely to have the same traits as the parent plants.
Dodgy Loner,thanks for the advice.a couple more questions....if i try starting from seed i was thinking about starting them in in trays with miracle grow potting mix and transfer into a bigger pot if they come up.good idea or not?i'm pretty shure it's an old variety i've talked to several people that have said the trees have been there 50+ years.also,if i try starting the seed do i start them straight out of the pear or do i need to let them dry before i try and start them?i know these may be dumb questions but i'm not a tree expert yet.
thanks again for the help.
T.J.
From what little I know,I would remove the seeds from the pear and dry the seeds and than plant.With me I would probably plant 20-30 just to make sure 4-5 would come up.It's good that you are doing this.Do you happen to know the variety?I would not know it,but there are groups out there that want to save these old varieties.Good luck.
If you put the seeds in pots or trays, they need to be left on an unheated porch or some other protected place outside. The seeds need to undergo stratification which is a period of colder temperatures. By planting outside in a bed like Dodgy says, they will naturally get the required cold temperature. With little trays, you have to be careful that they do not stay frozen all winter.
You did not say where you are from. We have members here from all over the world, so knowing your location is helpful.
There are many, many options for starting things from seed. The method I use is the simplest because it basically just lets nature do all the work. Like WDH said, if you plant them in trays, they must be kept outside to get the chill requirements. But if you're in a cold climate, the trays might freeze over; or if you're in a warm climate, you must keep the trays moist to ensure that the seeds don't dry out. You'll also have to transplant the seeds into a larger pot after the seeds sprout and grow a little. Planting the seed directly in the ground and covering with mulch reduces the amount of work that you must put into it, which is why I prefer it, but it's certainly not the only way.
sorry for the late reply.after posting i took off to the ag expo in Moultrie and havn't been back online since.i need to update my profile with my location (N.E. Alabama).
thecfarm,i'm not shure on the varieties of the trees but they are a fairley big fruit-perfect for making pear preserves.
again i want to thank you,WDH,and Dodgey Loner for all the help i appreciate it.
T.J.
Keep us posted on the pear project.
T.J.,
As Dodgy Loner suggested, you will not get the same pears as from the parent tree. All Pome fruits: pears, apples, quince, etc. are not true to seed. The only way of replicating the pear tree you like is to graft a cutting onto rootstock. This is actually not that difficult to do, but takes some knowledge and practice. You can buy a book on how to do this. Also, you can put the variety you like on a dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstock, and enjoy your pears in only a few years.
Bjorn
I can't find the reference book that I want, but, as Bjorn says, you will need to graft the variety onto the seedling. Seedling rootstock will give you a full sized tree that may take 10 years or more to fruit. Semi-dwarf or dwarf rootstock (obtained from rooted stock, not seedlings) will fruit much sooner, but not live as long. Seedling roots demand much more pruning and management when the trees get older, but the trees will live a long time (I have Bartletts that were planted in the '30's that are finally dying now). I'm partial to full sized trees that don't require much coddling, but production orchards now days only use dwarfing type root stock. I can't remember now which variety makes the best seedling rootstock, but likely many of the older ones would do ok. Good luck,
Ray
I have heard that it's possible to get a grafted tree to revert to a full size tree. Simply plant the tree so the graft is well below the soil and the tree will develop root stock above the graft.