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Drum switch

Started by 78NHTFY, July 31, 2017, 09:50:50 AM

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78NHTFY

On my LT40, the up/down handle goes past the stop point for raising the head--looking at the drum switch, it seems there is a missing little bar about the thickness of a pin, that would stop the drum switch at the contact point.  Anyone have this issue?  Is this self - repairable or do I need a whole new drum switch :-\.  I can still run the up/down but have to carefully move the handle to find the right contact spot without going past it--it's a pain in the neck, and hand!!  All the best, Rob.
If you have time, you win....

pineywoods

This one is a sneaky. The stop is built into the back side of the handle. Slot that fits down over the drum switch mounting screws. Pull the handle off and look at the back side. Most likely the handle is slid off the shaft a bit or you are missing one of the 3 screws that hold the drum switch in place.
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Kbeitz

If it's broken could you drill a hole in the front cover and put in a long bolt
so the handle would hit is as a stop?
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

paul case

I have that problem but it is on my forward/rev switch. Do they have a different handle?

PC
life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

Ga Mtn Man

The manual shows them having different part numbers.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Peter Drouin

A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Sixacresand

When I pull down on head reverse switch.  I have pull extra hard to make contact.  I assume a going bad drum switch or corroded contacts or both.  This is also a WM LT40
"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum.  Tenth year with a LT40 Woodmizer,

78NHTFY

Had 3 jobs yesterday/today (3 Butternut logs into 8/4 live edge--my stash; 1 ash log into 2x10x12's--local farmer for his bull pen; 8 white cedar logs into 5/4 planks--will finish tomorrow), so no time to fix drum switch.  But I did slather it with the "special" grease and it allowed me to catch the contact point a lot better.  Thanks to you all for the comments/suggestions.  In the past when I have had a bad connection, I used emery cloth to sand the switch contact points and then smear on the grease.  Worked good. 
Pineywoods--I will check the back of the handle when I get the chance--great tip!  Will keep you all posted & if I remember, maybe even a pic.  All the best, Rob.
If you have time, you win....

Chuck White

Quote from: Sixacresand on July 31, 2017, 09:19:32 PM
When I pull down on head reverse switch.  I have pull extra hard to make contact.  I assume a going bad drum switch or corroded contacts or both.  This is also a WM LT40

I would say yes, the drum switch is going!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Darrel

I had this same problem, and when I took the handle off I noticed that it was broken where it was supposed to hit the stop screw. Easy fix, I traded handles with the other side.
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

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