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Onan fuel pump ??

Started by Darrel, June 24, 2016, 04:43:36 PM

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Darrel

I'm looking for a replacement fuel pump for my Onan 24 horse. Does anyone know of an electric pump that I could replace the old vacuum operated pump?  Wood-Mizer will sell me the old style pump for about $90. Or should I just buck up and lay the $$ down.
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

MartyParsons

Hello,
These fuel pumps are used on many engines just not Onan. I think you could find one less expensive at any small engine shop. Kohler, Briggs \ etc would use this same pump. I can get you the part # on Monday and post.

Hope this helps.



Marty
"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

Kbeitz

Any low pressure pump electric will work...
But check E-bay for the right pump...
You will surprised to see how cheap you can get one.
I don't like the electrics on small engines. The engines just don't seem to run right with them.
You will need to plug and maybe drill your old pump if you go electric.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Kbeitz

Quote from: MartyParsons on June 24, 2016, 07:42:16 PM
Hello,
These fuel pumps are used on many engines just not Onan. I think you could find one less expensive at any small engine shop. Kohler, Briggs \ etc would use this same pump. I can get you the part # on Monday and post.

Hope this helps.



Marty

Most Onans take a pump that mounted on the carb and they are different.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Chuck White

The fuel pump that I had on my Onan was thin and it was rectangular shaped.

When it went out, I went to the local lawn mower shop and bought one that had 3 stems on it, one was vacuum, one was in, and the other was out!

If I remember correctly, it ran about $15.00.

It has 2 screw holes for mounting, but I only mounted it with one screw because of the curvature on the cowl of the engine!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Darrel

This fuel pump is the thin one that mounts on the coweling. I'll be heading into Klamath Falls on Monday and will have to see if I can find it.
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

1ruralmailman

 the engine shops around here are in what i call collusion.when the one on my onan went out they all insisted i had to buy the whole pump for around 90 dollars.i got *pithed walked out,went home cleaned it off found out it is a walboro pump with numbers on it.did a little keyboard time found out you can buy the repair kits for 10 bucks direct from them.bought two,have a spare hanging in my shop now.the other one i took package and all back to town went into the shop and showed them what i had,they went white in the face.i told them times have changed,you cant put the screws to folks like that,because folks will find a way with the internet to get around being bent over.they didnt like me much for telling them this.i dont mind folks making a living,but this seemed a little greedy to me.

Chuck White

I was told at the small engine/lawn mower shop that the pump I bought was originally made for the DRĀ© equipment!

I think that if you were to go look at riding lawnmowers, you would see the pump like I got!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Kbeitz

Ah ha.... Someone got you...
They are only $7.69 abd free shipping on e-bay....
Not only can find a way with the internet you gotta be good at it.

Dont get mad ... Just playing with ya
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

pineywoods

The small electric fuel pumps work well IF you get the right one. Needs to put out no more than 3 psi. Some of them will pump up 30 psi, carb don't like that. I went electric on my mill motor. Makes a difference on starting when the carb is full of fuel before cranking..
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

ladylake

 If you get a electric fuel pump get the rotary style rather than the square pulse type which don't last at all, the rotary ones run for years.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Darrel

Thanks for the replies. I'll keep you posted as to how I solve my problem. Right now I have logs to saw and a brand new box of blades and am at a stand still. I must get the mill up and running on Monday.
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

Darrel

So I take the fuel pump off again and look it over carefully and notice that it says "Made in Japan" on the back and the word "Nikki".  There is also a very small hole in the back that's about 1/64" in size that I'm sure is just the way the pump was made. I put my finger over the hole and the pump works, remove my finger and it stops working. I got excited thinking that I had found a temporary fix but now am hesitant to run the mill for fear that the purpose of the hole may be to prevent fuel getting into the crank case in the event that the integrity of the diaphragm is compromised.

I'm thinking that there has to be some very good reason why the pump stopped working in the first place and most likely it's because the diaphragm is already compromised.
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

1ruralmailman

that is the case.there shouldnt be gas on that side of the diaphram. i would bet if you start doing some research you might be able to find the rebuild kit for it online somewhere.

Delawhere Jack

Quote from: pineywoods on June 25, 2016, 09:11:22 AM
....Makes a difference on starting when the carb is full of fuel before cranking..

AH HA!! And thank you! I wonder if mine is leaking back down towards the pump. It's been a little reluctant to start after sitting lately.

ladylake

Quote from: Darrel on June 25, 2016, 11:16:53 PM
Thanks for the replies. I'll keep you posted as to how I solve my problem. Right now I have logs to saw and a brand new box of blades and am at a stand still. I must get the mill up and running on Monday.

If you don't have parts to repair or replace your pump by Monday morning go get a rotary electric pump from your  local auto parts store, make sure its low pressure.  You most likely will never have trouble again.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

tnaz


Darrel

I did get it fixed!  Got it fixed on Tuesday, ran it on Wednesday then had to wait 'till I went to town to upload the picture. Works great!



Now if only I could get the rest of the old mill to work as well as the fuel pump does. So one thing at a time and sooner or later, I'll get there!
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

tnaz

Good to hear; and hopefully not a lot of $$$. :D 8)

Delawhere Jack

Quote from: Darrel on June 26, 2016, 03:51:40 PM
...but now am hesitant to run the mill for fear that the purpose of the hole may be to prevent fuel getting into the crank case in the event that the integrity of the diaphragm is compromised.


On a related note. Always leave the little bleeder screw on the gas tank .cap open when it's on the mill. Others have mentioned getting a crankcase full of gas from thermal expansion in the tank pushing gas through the carb.

ladylake

 Even if it cost a bit that looks like a rotary pump which should last for years, I tried a couple of those square pulse type pumps on my mill and they never lasted more than 3 months.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Darrel

Quote from: Delawhere Jack on June 30, 2016, 05:30:50 PM
Quote from: Darrel on June 26, 2016, 03:51:40 PM
...but now am hesitant to run the mill for fear that the purpose of the hole may be to prevent fuel getting into the crank case in the event that the integrity of the diaphragm is compromised.


On a related note. Always leave the little bleeder screw on the gas tank .cap open when it's on the mill. Others have mentioned getting a crankcase full of gas from thermal expansion in the tank pushing gas through the carb.

I put a shutoff valve in the line to prevent that very thing.
Quote from: ladylake on June 30, 2016, 05:33:09 PM
Even if it cost a bit that looks like a rotary pump which should last for years, I tried a couple of those square pulse type pumps on my mill and they never lasted more than 3 months.   Steve

It is a rotary pump and cost me less than $30 at Napa. I turn the key on and it starts pumping. No more cranking waiting for gas to get to the carb. I'm lovin it.
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

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