I found a neat chunk of metal at the junkyard yesterday that got me started
on my homemade router plane. I'm going to use my mill bed as part of the
machine. My bed is plenty long enough that I can just leave it at the far end
when I'm not using it.
This first picture is a machine trolley that came off some kind of knitting machine.
It's upside down from the way I'm going to use it. You can see the track wheels
touching the floor.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Junkyard_trolly.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1516903014)
I'm going to mount this shaper spindle on the side of the trolley facing up.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Shaper_spindle.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1516903284)
I'm drilling a 2" hole in a 1/2" steel plate to mount the spindle in.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Drilling.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1516903369)
Finishing up the hole with a boring bar. The hole needs to be 3" dia.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Boring.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1516903415)
Machining a collar to help hold the spindle
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Making_a_coller.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1516903624)
Now I need to bolt the plate to the bottom of the trolley.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Plate_on_trolley.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1516903501)
Got my track wheels for the sawmill carriage.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Track_wheels.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1516903699)
So is this going to hang from and travel across your current sawmill head (so you have the Z-motion) or are you building another "head"?
I am liking this. I never thought about just making a router hang from the carriage. But I like the idea of a lighter carriage for the router.
Quote from: ljohnsaw on January 25, 2018, 01:17:40 PM
So is this going to hang from and travel across your current sawmill head (so you have the Z-motion) or are you building another "head"?
Yes there will be a second carriage.
I drilled and taped the plate for a router if I ever want to use one.
It's easier to do it now than later.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Router_plate.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1516911003)
Plate is mounted...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Plate_mounted.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1516911061)
Nice. I have been wanting to make one for some time now run by an arduino. Infinity makes a nice planer bit for sleds. :)
That looks like you will have all the hardware there to build a nice set up.
I have a question, it may not matter, but I have even wondered the same about the four post mills. Is there anything to keep it from riding up, like maybe hitting a hard knot, or does gravity do the trick?
My unit is going to be heavy. Maybe it's a good thing if it can ride up
but I was thinking to put a second set of wheels under the track so it
can't ride up. I'm going to try it first without. maybe I'll just add more
weight. Open for ideas.
I got some E-bay parts coming...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/rod_Acme.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1516918069)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/nut_rod2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1516918105)
K,
How much travel do you think you are going to need? Maybe 18"? You should have gotten 4 nuts so you could make it a 4-poster. Then you could do fine adjust with chain on sprockets to get the spindle perfectly plump to the wood. I can see it now, you are going to have a CNC milling machine before too long!
I think for surfacing I would want a backup set of wheels on the bottom. it would be way to easy for it to start to lift when the bit gets dull.
It might be a four poster and it's going to be chain drive but I only
need two screw rods to lift it. It's going to be around 40" wide and
I want at least 24" in height and I'll have around 24 feet of travel.
I'm surprised that you didn't grind a tool to make your own acme mounting nuts on the lathe. Delrin might be perfect for this application if not too much weight.....you said heavy so maybe brass would be best.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/DSCF9941.JPG)
8 tpi would make it easy to keep track of the depth of cut.
Just harassing a bit, your idea looks great.
I don't think rising up is going to be a problem, unless the bit gets horribly blunt and you try taking a too big a bite. Guys using simple router bridges just have their routers sitting in a U channel and run them by hand. Worst case, if it did ride up, you have to go over it again, and take that final 1/16" off. You can't cut lower than your base line.
I have a similar setup with a big Makita router that I can clamp to my old mill carriage and rails. It's basically just a plywood box the router bolts into. Then you have the height and side adjust, and travel of the original mill carriage. Final adjustment to the cut height can be done with the fine adjust of the routers plunge function. Obviously you don't need anything that big, as you might only need 4" of height adjust. But I had the old mill frame, so why not use it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10460/ianab_slab_surfacer05.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1192060635)
So anyway, from experience, what you are building will work. Slab will come out perfectly flat, maybe with some faint lines and swirls from the router bit, but those are things that can easily be sanded out. The important thing will be that it's FLAT, and "smooth-ish"
I wanted a lot of height so I could do the tops of log benches.
I got the equipment to make my own acme rod and nuts
but it's a long processes and it doesn't cost much today
so I just bought it.
I bought single start thread 10 tpi so one turn of the rod
will give me 1/10th of an inch.
I know you already bought some but, over on the home machinist forum some years back there was a post on making no low machining derlin leadscrew nuts. The guy took two blocks of derlin and squeezed them around the lead screw as he heated the screw just enough to allow the plastic to deform into the screw. This made a almost zero backlash nut for the machine in question.
Quote from: coalsmok on January 26, 2018, 07:30:12 AM
I know you already bought some but, over on the home machinist forum some years back there was a post on making no low machining derlin leadscrew nuts. The guy took two blocks of derlin and squeezed them around the lead screw as he heated the screw just enough to allow the plastic to deform into the screw. This made a almost zero backlash nut for the machine in question.
Sounds like a neat way to make new nuts. I don't think I have worked with derlin.
Delrin is polyformaldehyde. If you heat it up, do it outside or a well ventilated area. It's bound to breakdown a little in the process and formaldehyde fumes are not good to breathe.
I'm guessing this weights just a little over 100 lbs. My scale only goes
up to 100 lbs and I'm getting an overload. This part is all but done.
I'm waiting for a belt to come. I have around 1000 belts but nothing
in a L2 1/4" grove. Next I need to make the second trolley that travels
down the carriage. Again as you see it it is upside down.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Overload~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1517005827)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Motor_is_mounted.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1517005880)
I finished up this part today. The next carriage will need to wait
till spring gets here. I keep watchen for the first Robin.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Finished~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1517330413)
Here he goes again! Looks nice K and I am sure it will work well.
I got some E-bay parts in today so I started on the upper carriage...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Top_carriage_.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1517430748)
What I'm trying to make...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Top_carriage_2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1517432415)
Temporary mock setup in my basement.
The bottom is sitting on channel iron the same width as my mill.
The gray rails on the bottom are there only temporary.
The wood saw horses is just holding the top rails up
till I get the other parts made. Looks like I will have
around 32" of travel to play with.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Temp_setup.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1517606505)
Coming along very nice.
I ordered two more brass nuts and rod. It will be so much easier
to build using 4 acme rods for lift than two. I got some more done
today. I don't have heat in my weld shop so I run down and weld
up what I need and bring it back up to my home shop. It makes
for more work but I'm wanting to get this done. Looks like I'm
going to get a jump start this year on my summer projects.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Temp_setup_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1517696832)
I'm going to make a second track for this machine on the barn floor so I can do
4 foot wide table tops with it. All I need to do this is 4 more lengths of channel.
Working on the top half today. It took most of the day just getting things
squared up and removing BB's.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Top_half.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1517863338)
Putting the acme rods on today.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Acme_rod_plate.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1517929751)
Looks like a fun build.
I'm eager to see it working, but am wondering about the stability and finish that it will leave.
I do think what you have going there would be a great idea for a sander.
I bought a bowling alley lane polisher awhile back that I was going to turn into a sanding table and you've given me a good idea.
I'm waiting for two more acme rods to come from E-bay.
Wow this thing is a lot of work.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Rod_in_place.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518032803)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Sprocket.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518032999)
Quote from: justallan1 on February 07, 2018, 04:52:40 AM
Looks like a fun build.
I'm eager to see it working, but am wondering about the stability and finish that it will leave.
I do think what you have going there would be a great idea for a sander.
I bought a bowling alley lane polisher awhile back that I was going to turn into a sanding table and you've given me a good idea.
You better post some pictures. I would like to see that.
I don't think I will have stability problems. This thing
already weights a few hundred pounds and there is
more to add. I was thinking about adding a vertical
cutoff blade to the carriage. Maybe since you brought
it up a sander to.
This is the 2-1/4" router bit I'm going to try.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Router_bit.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518033583)
I mean it in the nicest way, but I'd for darned sure try it's maiden voyage with a way smaller cutter than that, just to see what it's going to do.
If it weighs a few hundred pounds and everything is tight it should work if a guy takes his time, but if that thing tries to bite I'd sure want to be somewhere else. :D
Quote from: justallan1 on February 07, 2018, 08:55:18 PM
I mean it in the nicest way, but I'd for darned sure try it's maiden voyage with a way smaller cutter than that, just to see what it's going to do.
If it weighs a few hundred pounds and everything is tight it should work if a guy takes his time, but if that thing tries to bite I'd sure want to be somewhere else. :D
Thanks.... I'll let you all know a day in advance before I try it.
It you don't here from me I guess you will know it did not work....
I googled what was the best bit for the job and I came up with this.
But at $200.00 a pop I'm going to wait and try what I got.
Bed Skimming Router Bit.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Image2A.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1518057326)
that is weird the cutters are in 2 planes. I really be interested to see what kind of finish that leaves and how it works.
Machine tools are expensive.
Quote from: Crusarius on February 08, 2018, 07:51:41 AM
that is weird the cutters are in 2 planes. I really be interested to see what kind of finish that leaves and how it works.
Machine tools are expensive.
If I knew the angles I could machine one. Guess I could guess from
the picture.
I have a similar cutter made by Byrd. It's a shaper pattern cutter but with the accessory top cutters I can cut an extremely smooth rabbet. Of course with the shaper spindle it wouldn't work for surfacing.
Years ago their was something made called the Wagner Saf-T-Planer. It was intended to be used in a drill press to surface boards. Think it was about 3" diameter. They can be found on ebay and their are also brand new clones being made. Unlike a router bit it doesn't require a lot of speed to work. I've seen one used but have no personal experience in the operation.
Quote from: Larry on February 08, 2018, 10:33:51 AM
I have a similar cutter made by Byrd. It's a shaper pattern cutter but with the accessory top cutters I can cut an extremely smooth rabbet. Of course with the shaper spindle it wouldn't work for surfacing.
Years ago their was something made called the Wagner Saf-T-Planer. It was intended to be used in a drill press to surface boards. Think it was about 3" diameter. They can be found on ebay and their are also brand new clones being made. Unlike a router bit it doesn't require a lot of speed to work. I've seen one used but have no personal experience in the operation.
I had one of those. I even sold it on E-bay. There was no way
I was going to hold a board with my hands and use it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Wagner_Saf-T-Planer_~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1518133781)
Anyone one have any recommendations on lube for the acme rod?
I'm thinking spray dry lube of some sort. The acme nuts are yellow
brass. I don't want the rods to rust and I don't want the sawdust
to stick on the rods and cause problems.
I've been using Slick Stuff from Lowes on the mill drive chains and the raise and lower screw. Doesn't seem to draw dust like white spray grease.
Graphite.
There is a guy here that has an aerosol can with spray graphite lube. it works very well. but it does like to spread with contact.
Man do I hate working with stainless. Drill speed to fast.
Welded it's self right fast.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Drill_1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518189097)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Drill_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518189143)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Drill_3.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518189179)
Stainless angle bearing plate. It's the only thing I had that was the right size.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Stainless_angle_iron.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518189383)
Stainless you need to drill slooooooooow. Oil may help a little.
Have you got any coated bits or cobalt? They work little better to. That one looks like HSS?
Quote from: Crusarius on February 09, 2018, 10:17:24 AM
Stainless you need to drill slooooooooow. Oil may help a little.
Have you got any coated bits or cobalt? They work little better to. That one looks like HSS?
All I had was HHS and some cement bits. I had to finish off that hole
with a cement bit. They had a carbide tips. I need to invest in some solid
carbite bits.
This stuff really helps. Ultra Lube High Performance Cutting Tool Lubricant
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Drill_lube.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518190258)
Quote from: Kbeitz on February 09, 2018, 10:31:29 AM
All I had was HHS and some cement bits. I had to finish off that hole
with a cement bit. They had a carbide tips. I need to invest in some solid
carbide bits.
What? Wait! Kbeitz
doesn't have something! ;)
Quote from: ljohnsaw on February 09, 2018, 10:47:20 AM
Quote from: Kbeitz on February 09, 2018, 10:31:29 AM
All I had was HHS and some cement bits. I had to finish off that hole
with a cement bit. They had a carbide tips. I need to invest in some solid
carbide bits.
What? Wait! Kbeitz doesn't have something! ;)
Did you ever price cobalt or carbide bits...
I figure you would have found a 5 gallon bucket at the magic junk yard! :)
Quote from: ljohnsaw on February 09, 2018, 11:06:50 AM
I figure you would have found a 5 gallon bucket at the magic junk yard! :)
Yep plenty from the junkyard. This is just some of my bits. I got much more
in my work trucks and stuffed away. I got a lot more 2-3" and bigger bits but no
photos. I'm just not ready to buy more. I think I can waste some of these and
not cry. I did not want to fill up out storage space so I crammed all pictures in one.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/All_bits.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1518199999)
Many years ago I learned how to freehand sharpen a drill bit. If I see any drill
bit in the junkyard I'll pick it up. Lots of times I picked up a set with half of the
bits missing. I just take whats left and add it to the collection. I use my bits like
I use my saw blades... Till they break. I had a few unwind.
Quote from: Kbeitz on January 25, 2018, 05:08:32 PM
I got some E-bay parts coming...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/rod_Acme.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1516918069)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/nut_rod2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1516918105)
is this rod different than the stuff surplus center sells? Quite a price difference.
Quote from: Kwill on February 09, 2018, 03:29:21 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on January 25, 2018, 05:08:32 PM
I got some E-bay parts coming...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/rod_Acme.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1516918069)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/nut_rod2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1516918105)
is this rod different than the stuff surplus center sells? Quite a price difference.
I have no idea that surplus center even sold acme rod. What are they asking for a chunk?
Do they also sell the nuts?
I looked it up... surplus center
CME lead screw threaded rod. 72" lengths of 1010/1018 class 2G rolled threads. Plain finish. Right-hand thread. $16.75 plus shipping.
E-bay
1/2-10 x 72 inch (6 foot) 1 start Acme threaded rod for lead screw CNC
minimum tensile strength of 64,000 psi. Hardness is 126-180 Brinell. $13.20 plus shipping
mcmaster sells it to.
Ouch nm i just looked at the price. $100+
I got the chain on today.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Chain_1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518211058)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Chain_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518211113)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Brass_nut_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518211141)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Lower_bearing.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518211195)
Quote from: Crusarius on February 09, 2018, 04:19:04 PM
mcmaster sells it to.
Ouch nm i just looked at the price. $100+
I have some 1-1/2" acme rod but I did not want to waste it on this job.
Maybe I'll use that for a car lift.
I really like the way you ran the chain. won't have to worry about any skipping for sure.
Quote from: Crusarius on February 09, 2018, 04:27:10 PM
I really like the way you ran the chain. won't have to worry about any skipping for sure.
I kinda copied the way they raise wood planer machines.
So I can't say it was my idea.
Coming along very nice. 8)
Quote from: Kbeitz on February 09, 2018, 04:16:13 PM
I looked it up... surplus center
CME lead screw threaded rod. 72" lengths of 1010/1018 class 2G rolled threads. Plain finish. Right-hand thread. $16.75 plus shipping.
E-bay
1/2-10 x 72 inch (6 foot) 1 start Acme threaded rod for lead screw CNC
minimum tensile strength of 64,000 psi. Hardness is 126-180 Brinell. $13.20 plus shipping
oh. I just saw your picture that said 38.13. Didn't realize you got 2 sticks. So is the eBay stuff better?
Quote from: Kwill on February 09, 2018, 09:12:29 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on February 09, 2018, 04:16:13 PM
I looked it up... surplus center
CME lead screw threaded rod. 72" lengths of 1010/1018 class 2G rolled threads. Plain finish. Right-hand thread. $16.75 plus shipping.
E-bay
1/2-10 x 72 inch (6 foot) 1 start Acme threaded rod for lead screw CNC
minimum tensile strength of 64,000 psi. Hardness is 126-180 Brinell. $13.20 plus shipping
oh. I just saw your picture that said 38.13. Didn't realize you got 2 sticks. So is the eBay stuff better?
Better... No idea... E-bay is my shopping store for 99% of everything I buy.
I sit in my underware and push a few buttons and in a day or two it's at my door step.
Quote from: Kbeitz on February 10, 2018, 04:27:08 AM
...
I sit in my underware and push a few buttons and in a day or two it's at my door step.
TMI!!!!
At the bottom of your acme rod I see you have a bearing to hold it. Did you have to machine the rod to get it to fit in the bearing?
Quote from: Kwill on February 10, 2018, 12:39:38 PM
At the bottom of your acme rod I see you have a bearing to hold it. Did you have to machine the rod to get it to fit in the bearing?
The bearings was 5/8" ID and the rod 1/2" OD So I press in a 5/8x1/2" bronze bushing. Then I found out I could have used 1/2" bearings. The OD of the acme rod is a perfect 1/2". I'm going to put a 1/2" collar on the rod to work as a thrush bearing that will ride on top in the flange of the bronze bushing. I don't really think it'e needed but I already had them. I got the brass acme blocks mounted today. I made them so they can float. That was a lot more work but there wont be any binding.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Floating_brass_nut.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518298193)
First time up under it's own power. Looks to be working good.
Many hours getting things squared up.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/First_up_1_.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518374715)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/First_up_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518374760)
Lots of wiring and safety switches and chain guards to go yet.
Looking good
Not much to show today. Making brackets for the limit switches.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Limit_switch_1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518476554)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Limit_switch_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518476591)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Power_box.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518476623)
Wiring is done...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Wiring_is_done.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518729905)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Switches.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518730482)
I take it the "toggle" is a jog function for the lift to get it just right. So what is the minimum movement you are expecting? 1/32", 1/16"?
And this is probably temporary until you mount up your SetWorks or AcuSet. ;)
Quote from: ljohnsaw on February 15, 2018, 04:54:06 PM
I take it the "toggle" is a jog function for the lift to get it just right. So what is the minimum movement you are expecting? 1/32", 1/16"?
And this is probably temporary until you mount up your SetWorks or AcuSet. ;)
It's kinda slow so a bump of the toggle is pretty small.
I'm thinking I'll make a powered side travel to.
Guess I'll do a video.
Seeing you do all this stuff makes me feel so stupid sometimes. You my friend do inspire me to do better with things.
And I wish you lived next door. :D :D :D :D :D :D
This router plane for the mill is a great idea.
If you are ever in NH please stop in, I want to shake your hand, And maybe get some ideas on things I want to do here. ;D ;)
Good job>
Sincerely Peter Drouin.
One thing I'm not good at... Making videos.
Home made Router plane to fit a band saw mill. - YouTube (https://youtu.be/HGzRj1k2-Gw)
Very cool. Are you going to make it hand powered or have motors on it's movements?
What do you figure the RPMs are going to be?
Nice work.
K,
Looking good! Sounding good, too.
What is the HP on that motor? For the bit you are planning on spinning, I think you would want at least a 1hp - 2hp would be better. +1 on what speed will you be spinning that? If that is a 3750 motor and your pulley set up looks like its doubling, you are at the bottom end of what I think you should spin it for a good smooth finish.
Quote from: justallan1 on February 15, 2018, 09:54:32 PM
Very cool. Are you going to make it hand powered or have motors on it's movements?
What do you figure the RPMs are going to be?
Nice work.
I'm thinking to power one of the movements . The short one.
Quote from: ljohnsaw on February 16, 2018, 12:16:19 AM
K,
Looking good! Sounding good, too.
What is the HP on that motor? For the bit you are planning on spinning, I think you would want at least a 1hp - 2hp would be better. +1 on what speed will you be spinning that? If that is a 3750 motor and your pulley set up looks like its doubling, you are at the bottom end of what I think you should spin it for a good smooth finish.
One Hp 3400 rpm. I want to use the insert bits later but I'm going to try what
I have first. The pulley on the motor is adjustable for speeds and the one on
the arbor is a step pulley. I will play with them both.
On your first post on the last picture where did you get those rollers at?
Quote from: xlogger on February 16, 2018, 06:46:51 AM
On your first post on the last picture where did you get those rollers at?
The little rollers on the top of the machine came from the junkyard.
The bottom ones I got from E-bay.
I really dislike sheet metal work.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Cover_1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518795048)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Cover_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518795100)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Cover_3.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518795142)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Cover_4.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518795179)
Did I say how much I hate sheet metal work... It took me all day to get this
much done but the hard part is finished.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Cover_5.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518822285)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Cover_6.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518822334)
X 2 on what Peter said you can make a lot of things :)
The chain cover is finally done. 14ga galvanized steel.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Cover_7.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518884734)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Cover_8.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518884763)
I got my pull along handles mounted on both sides. Next I need to put a handle on the molding head or make it power feed. I'll sleep on it a few days.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Pull_along_handle.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518896130)
For a better feedback when working, I'm thinking a simple hand crank with some clothesline rope would be easy and effective. Just use a large enough capstan (2"?) so you can turn the handle fairly slow.
Quote from: ljohnsaw on February 17, 2018, 03:07:21 PM
For a better feedback when working, I'm thinking a simple hand crank with some clothesline rope would be easy and effective. Just use a large enough capstan (2"?) so you can turn the handle fairly slow.
The reason I was thinking of some kind of motorized movement was so that part of the machine would stay where I put it while I'm moving the other part. Right now everything just moves way to easy. I was thinking about two sprockets and a chain and a special master link follower that would move the whole thing back and forth on it's own.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Festoon_movement.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1518905271)
I slept on it last night and came up with this. Another DC variable speed motor mounted right on the moving head. I will run a strand of roller chain like the saw mills have for the motor to follow on. Easy fix.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Side_motor.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518964349)
I got the side motor mounted today. Tomorrow will be the chain and sprocket. While in church today dreaming about this project I dreamed up the idea of running a hitch to my mill carriage so the carriage will push it down the track. Hands free operation. With my mill remote I wont have to touch it. Just sit back and watch.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Side_motor_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1518995713)
About all I have left to do it to wire up this motor and paint.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Side_motor_4.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1519081551)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Chain_brace.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1519081643)
I am very anxious to see this work.
Quote from: Kbeitz on February 19, 2018, 06:07:39 PMAbout all I have left to do it to wire up this motor and paint.
And some limit switches on the travel motor?
Quote from: ljohnsaw on February 19, 2018, 10:31:53 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on February 19, 2018, 06:07:39 PMAbout all I have left to do it to wire up this motor and paint.
And some limit switches on the travel motor?
I was thinking you should use limit switches to have it automatically change directions, of course after a pause and 1" advance. 8)
limit switches will be added... Maybe later a PLC. I'm worried the PLC wont like it outside.
I already have limit switches on the up and down but not on the side movement yet.
The top speed of the side motor is only 4rpm and I'm putting a controller on it to go even slower. For now I'm just going to use a jog switch.
Something happened to my computer. When typing my post the font size is so small I cant hardly read it but when I post it it come out larger than normal. Is this problem on my side?
I don't know, but your last post was back to normal.
Quote from: starmac on February 20, 2018, 02:25:42 AM
I don't know, but your last post was back to normal.
I seen that but it was anything but normal when I was typing it. As this one the font is so small...
if you hold ctrl key and roll the scroll wheel on the mouse that will change your font size that you see.
Quote from: Crusarius on February 20, 2018, 07:29:18 AM
if you hold ctrl key and roll the scroll wheel on the mouse that will change your font size that you see.
Yep. But that changes the whole screen. it's only my typing fonts thats small..
Yea, as I was responding I saw exactly what you were talking about. I think that is a theme setting Jeff will have to fix.
I pretty much got it finished. I need to drill two holes for stopper bolts for the limit switch and I'm done.
What a lot of wiring for this little box.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Side_motor_5.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1519163651)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Wires_wires.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1519163721)
8).........What's the word Mister.
We're dying here wanting to see this thing go. LOL
I took it all apart today so I can carry it out of my basement. We have had nothing but rain here for the last couple of days. First good day I will get it out and on my mill. Pictures will follow.
Today's the day... It's coming out....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Coming_out_1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1519586866)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Coming_out_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1519586918)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Coming_out_3.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1519586970)
I got it stuck.... say_what
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Coming_out_4.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1519587071)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Coming_out_5.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1519587114)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Coming_out_6.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1519587146)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Coming_out_7.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1519587199)
did you ever get it out? that looks kinda precarious.
Quote from: Crusarius on February 25, 2018, 02:35:18 PMdid you ever get it out? that looks kinda precarious.
Yep... Tough working by yourself...
It's out....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Coming_out_8.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1519601041)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Coming_out_9.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1519601099)
Broke a toggle switch... No biggie ...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Coming_out_10.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1519601201)
Got it back upright and ready to go...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Coming_out_11.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1519601330)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Coming_out_12.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1519601393)
Using my crane to help get it back together.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Coming_out_13.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1519601515)
Now I need to fix the broken toggle switch...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Coming_out_14.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1519601606)
How nice is that, smiley_thumbsup
Looks like it was an eventful day around your place :)
I want to see the pictures of when you put the mill and lathe down there, or did you build the house around them? :D ;D
I do understand your situation though with some of the stuff that I've built indoors.
Quote from: justallan1 on February 26, 2018, 06:56:51 AM
I want to see the pictures of when you put the mill and lathe down there, or did you build the house around them? :D ;D
I do understand your situation though with some of the stuff that I've built indoors.
The lathe was set down the steps with a prentice loader. Never again... The mill I took it all apart and carried each piece down and reassembled. The hardest part was the knee of the mill. I had to lift it high enough to get it started on the dovetails. After the prentice loader set the lathe on the steps I hooked my winch on it and slid it down a sheet of 3/4" plywood to the floor. Then jacked it up and rolled it into place. I don't ever have plans of taking ether one of them out again. They go with the house.
Quote from: Kbeitz on February 25, 2018, 06:23:00 PMYep... Tough working by yoursel
Especially when you're the photographer too. Thanks for pix. Always interesting. Can't wait to see it in operation.
We have had some super days this week. I got so much to do. I want to see it work to but I want to make some different hold down clamps for the mill before I give it a try. My new toy Bobcat skidsteer has taken my time lately.
I did put my new carb on the Honda mill engine. Runs so much better. Today I had to go get another two loads of free Walnut logs. Busy time of year... Oh... I seen my first spring Robin today...
I can see making the Bobcat a priority. You'll use that everyday. Good score on that. Once again, I'm jealous. :)
What's the good word..... 8) 8) 8) 8)
Still waiting on E-bay for my hold down clamps....
Clamps should be here Monday. Then I need to make the base for the clamps to fit on my mill.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Clamps.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1520458877)
We will soon see, but why couldn't you use your log stop/log clamps that you already have? Certainly your slabs are going to be more than 1½", right?
I could but this was part of my build. I want to finish before I try everything out...
Theses new clamps will have a small tilt in them to help hold the slabs down tight to the tracking. It's also only been in the low 30's here with snow on the ground and I'm not ready to play in the cold.
Aren't you better off letting the slabs float on the first side cut so they are flat when done. I use wood shingles to shim the low spots on my cnc router and then just plane the other side parallel to get a perfectly flat slab. :)
Until I cut my first slab I don't want anything floating until I see whats going to happen when the bit hits the wood.
Well, my one and only slab was big - 90"+x42" and 3-¼" thick. I used a Porter Cable 3+ variable speed router with a 3½" bit. No clamps, no problems.
Quote from: ljohnsaw on March 08, 2018, 09:45:22 AM
Well, my one and only slab was big - 90"+x42" and 3-¼" thick. I used a Porter Cable 3+ variable speed router with a 3½" bit. No clamps, no problems.
Could you show us what bit you used ?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/RouterTable5.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1453601923)
Thanks. That's a lot like what I got. When I catch up from spending so much money I'm going to buy one like this...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Image2A~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1520553208)
I got my clamps today... I walked down to the mill and slapped down a BIG slab.... Looks like I don't have the room I need for my clamps. Guess I need to sleep on this one tonight. Some how I need to put my clamps on the ends and still have them adjustable. Open for ideas...
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 09, 2018, 05:42:42 PMOpen for ideas...
What about using pipe clamps with the pipes running lengthwise on your mill? Have cross pieces every 2 or 3 feet with holes drilled through. The far end wound have a back stop on it. Slide a piece of pipe in where needed with the screw clamp exposed. Slide on the other end of the pipe clamp on the other side of the cross piece (this will be under the slab). Tighten and go!
Weld the bottom of the clamp to a flat stock or C channel that will go up on the underside of the mill rails. That way they will work on any length slab and not be in the way of the mill head.
This is what I came up with for a clamp for one end. I will bolt it fast to one of my cross beams.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Tooth_clamp.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1520703199)
I'm not real happy with it. Looks like I need to make it float or I need to cut all my slabs square.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC08028.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1520705243)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC08030.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1520705325)
I would float it.
I agree. The float is the best option.
Quite possibly I'm just brain-dead this morning, but what do you guys mean by "float?"
I know I'm missing the obvious here and more than likely know exactly what you mean, but I'm going with, "Y'all must just talk funny!"
Are you saying to let the board sit free on the bunks?
I think a better word would be pivot. A single bolt (slightly loose) in the middle so the scary teeth can match the angle of the board end. And then if K puts toggle handle on the bolt (like a bicycle axle quick release), he could lock it down with a little down pressure too once the board is loaded.
I would seriously consider some sort of guard on those teeth! :o I know I would have tore up shins!
It now floats or pivots or swivels. Now if it would get above 27f I could go out and play.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC08035.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1520804240)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC08033.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1520804299)
Now I need to make the clamp for the other end.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Toggle_clamp_bar.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1520805642)
I was thinking you were going pull down on the wood some.
:D :D :D :D I knew I was missing the obvious on this. I thought you all were saying to let the board sit free.
I never even considered the clamps. :D :D :D :D OOPS!
Quote from: Peter Drouin on March 11, 2018, 06:49:18 PM
I was thinking you were going pull down on the wood some.
Would love to... Got any ideas?
simple log dog cam clamp? or even a hasp of some type? Hey you really want to get simple piece of threaded rod pulling straight down.just have it long enough you can reach under the mill and tighten it that way.
I have good log dogs for logs, but I cant use them now because my big slabs have taken all the beds room. I cant hook anything on top of the slab because that's what getting cut. So this only leaves the two ends of the slab to lock down. Another problem is every slab is a different length so what ever I use one end needs to be movable.
Question...
For those who have done router planning. Best to do climb cut or under cut for what I'm about to do? Guessing climb cut but that would pull my machine into the wood. But under cut would want to tear out chunks of wood. Whats best?
What I get from utube is undercut... Guess I'm wrong...
After my first test cuts this weekend I came up with a design in my head for a bar clamp between bunks. Use teeth like what you made for each end then just tighten them up till it holds tight. if the teeth are angled just right as it tightens it will suck it down to the bed.
It makes sense in my head :)
Quote from: Crusarius on March 12, 2018, 09:17:26 AM
After my first test cuts this weekend I came up with a design in my head for a bar clamp between bunks. Use teeth like what you made for each end then just tighten them up till it holds tight. if the teeth are angled just right as it tightens it will suck it down to the bed.
It makes sense in my head :)
So whats going to happen when you get a slab that stops right at your bunk where you need to put your clamp?
I was actually figuring the bunk would have the one clamp connected to it then a bar clamp off that bunk. Make it float like you did and it will save a lot of headache.
If it hits the bunk on the other side I think I would have to put it in the board stretcher till it cleared the bunk :).
I dunno, still work in progress.
What about just clamping from the face on the side away from where you're working. After you finish about half the slab, move the clamp to the other side where you just planed?
Quote from: btulloh on March 12, 2018, 09:52:21 AM
What about just clamping from the face on the side away from where you're working. After you finish about half the slab, move the clamp to the other side where you just planed?
I thought about that but if your making your first cuts and your slab is warped on the bottom one end of the slab will raise when you move the clamps.
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 11, 2018, 08:34:05 PM
Quote from: Peter Drouin on March 11, 2018, 06:49:18 PM
I was thinking you were going pull down on the wood some.
Would love to... Got any ideas?
For the "claw" end, lift the opposite end (slightly) and put it onto the claw. When you lower the slab, it should tighten it up. For your moveable "T" push bar/toggle clamp - just point it down slightly before you clamp and that will apply a little down pressure at that end. IMHO, you won't need any down pressure or clamps for that matter.
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 12, 2018, 09:16:04 AM
Question...
Best to do climb cut or under cut for what I'm about to do?
I found it didn't matter which way I was cutting - just a firm grip on the router! But I've only cut Incense Cedar - pretty soft wood except for the rock-hard knots.
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 12, 2018, 10:02:28 AMI thought about that but if your making your first cuts and your slab is warped on the bottom one end of the slab will raise when you move the clamps.
It's best to shim the bottom with some kind of wedges anyway. Doesn't take but a minute to stick a couple shims under the high spots.
Climb-cutting produces good results, but hard to do if you're guiding it by hand because of the reasons you mentioned. If it was CNC you could do it.
Reply 129, You can put the clamp anywhere, can't you stop the cutter 2" from the ends? Won't you want to trim the ends when you're done?
Quote from: Peter Drouin on March 12, 2018, 12:25:22 PM
Reply 129, You can put the clamp anywhere, can't you stop the cutter 2" from the ends? Won't you want to trim the ends when you're done?
Sometime there is nothing at the ends to clamp to. Nothing under the slab.
Quote from: btulloh on March 12, 2018, 10:26:35 AMClimb-cutting produces good results, but hard to do if you're guiding it by hand because of the reasons you mentioned. If it was CNC you could do it.
Nothing going to be done by hand. X Y Z all motorized.
For my second clamp I think I'll use this....
It's something I found at the junkyard years ago and I really had no idea what it was until today.
I just have the snap action clamp sitting on top of it now. I will weld it in place. I got to make a foot for the one that's missing. I think I will put a thick rubber pad on the end of the foot to help.
Auto Body Push Pull Friction Jack.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Up_to_32C000_lbs__push_pull_power.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1520878725)
Just some random thinking here.....
How would it work to take a beam of any size that your mill dogs and clamps can hold for you, like maybe a 4x12 that is proven square, place the board that you want to plane on top of that and use a piece of angle iron at each end with screws to hold it in place? It should take you less than 2 minutes to screw it down, your board that you are planning can be wider than your beam and it shouldn't matter unless you are trying to plane to well less than an inch, plus your boards to be planed don't have to be square. You could even run the planer on the beam that you use first to make sure it is guaranteed to be true.
The way I see things you wouldn't want to pull your board downward very much, if any, at all because if you pull a warp out of the board with your clamps it's going to show back up as soon as you release your clamps. The first side that you plane should be acting more a jointer, as in it's to make it flat. Then the second side should be true to the first.
Just my way of thinking. :)
Quote from: justallan1 on March 12, 2018, 03:19:19 PM
Just some random thinking here.....
. :)
That would work. I could just run screws up through my bed with not much of a problem. I would just like it to be more professional. Thanks for the ideas....
Possibly that was a poor description on my part....
I just meant to clamp a wide beam onto your mill with your existing clamping system and lay the board to be planed on top of that and anchor them together with a couple pieces of angle iron and some screws. You wouldn't have to change anything on your mill, you won't have to screw anything to it and I'm willing to bet it would be as fast to set up as anything else.
When I plane something on my CNC router I use a 1" flat nose endmill and 2 to 4 wood slats with screws through them as clamps. I can plane something 37x50" and it stays put pretty darned good.
Some times "more professional" aint "more better"....poke poke, jab jab! ;D ;D ;D ;D
I can certainly understand making something how you want it and having fun in making something you can take extra pride in and I'm sure whatever you come up with is going to be very neat.
I sorry ... What I said kinda sounds bad... You had a great idea. I might even try it if my clamp doesn't work.
Professional not the word I needed to use. Faster a better word. I really do appreciate all your ideas. With the clamp I made it should be real fast to change from one size slab to another. I let you know how it works. My shop is around 1000 feet from my mill and I'm hoping I wont need to run to the shop for some screws and a driver.
Thanks again.
What does the wood wizz use??
Your bed rails are on concrete? no room under them.
Quote from: starmac on March 12, 2018, 07:55:11 PM
What does the wood wizz use??
The Wood Wizz looked real simple. The bed was 2x4s on the metal frame. Then a short piece of what looked like plastic perhaps 4" wide, 1" thick (or less) and 6 or 8" long with somewhat sharpened ends. They laid it like a brace between the 2x4 bed and the side of the slab. Ran a screw through the middle into the 2x4 and done.
I don't think K has enough space on the sides of his slabs that he wants to process.
That makes sense.
That's the first I've heard of Wood Wizz ... I did a screen capture of the hold down...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Wood_block.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1520903879)
In this clip they are using a metal bracket...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Metal_clamp.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1520904304)
I could do that but I do have some slabs that's going to use every inch of my space.
Couple of heavy weights,one placed just past half way and when the cutter gets close place second weigh behind cutter and then pick up first weigh ?
Looks good... Now if it would just get above 31F.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC08039.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1520971352)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC08041.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1520971411)
you said you had X and Y powered what about Z? do you have to program this or do you just hold a button until it is where you want?
Just curious, before you clamp it like that, do you shim it so it will have no movement side to side?
Quote from: starmac on March 13, 2018, 05:00:13 PM
Just curious, before you clamp it like that, do you shim it so it will have no movement side to side?
One side is up touching the small log stops in the back. Nothing in the front. It clamps so tight that nothing moves by hand. Yet to try it running. The latching clamp is good for 850lbs locking.
Quote from: Crusarius on March 13, 2018, 04:44:03 PM
you said you had X and Y powered what about Z? do you have to program this or do you just hold a button until it is where you want?
X, Y. Z all done with switches. Both toggle and jog switches.
Bits loaded and ready to go....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC08042.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1520984377)
Looks good. smiley_thumbsup
I can't wait until a nice day to try it out. It has been a very busy place around here lately.
Wife is off to Spain today for a vacation with her sister.
I am really surprised after you put the bit in you didn't run it right then and there. I would not have been able to avoid doing that :)
I want to make sure I smile the first time I run it... I put to much work into it to have it not work right the first time.
KBeitz, good thing you don't live closer to me-Id have to stop in and introduce my self and then Id never get anything of mine done. I love gadgets, dohickies, whatchmacallits and anything else custom made for a purpose-sometimes even if it doesn't have a purpose, lol.
You'r not that far away. Stop in...
First cuts today.... I'm smiling... Video coming soon.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC08049.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1521136500)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC08056.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1521136586)
8)
From the looks of the shadows, that wasn't a real flat slab to start with? Was hard to tell before.
that looks great. how bout some close ups of the finish?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Before.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1521142518)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/After.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1521142557)
Quote from: ljohnsaw on March 15, 2018, 02:05:03 PM
8)
From the looks of the shadows, that wasn't a real flat slab to start with? Was hard to tell before.
I was cutting at least 1/2" off at the high spots. I took it all all with one pass. 1/2"to3/4" wide by 1/2" deep cut all at once. Take about 10 minutes to do one side of the slab posted in the picture.
thats nice. now you going to get a sanding pad for it? :)
Quote from: Crusarius on March 15, 2018, 03:43:53 PM
thats nice. now you going to get a sanding pad for it? :)
I make one...
Video time....
First slab cut with the saw mil router plane - YouTube (https://youtu.be/NZMPOwQP1BU)
Under cut worked so much better than over cut... Tried both.
Is that the same as up cut and down cut?
My best cut is when the bit digs in from the bottom of the cut. Not the top... I use the one on the left.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Right_cut_left_cut~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1521146385)
ok that makes sense now. climb cutting is really hard on tooling to cause the router is being pulled through and depending on how much slop there is in the feed it could jamb the router taking to big of a bite. I have the same problem when milling steel. But with steel I do get a nicer finish climb cutting.
Yep climb cutting can snap a bit real fast on my Bridgeport.
Nice job and a great project.
Kbeitze, how wide is your bit? The reason I ask is it looks like the bit on the woodwizz is 5 inches and even an optional 6 in bit. It looks like your outfit is built heavier than the factory one, do you think yours would handle a bit that wide?
I have no experience in anything like this, so don't laugh at my question.
I see you are having to take off up to a 1/2 inch in the high spots, would it pay to cut your slabs a little bigger and resaw them after drying before planing?
Quote from: starmac on March 15, 2018, 07:05:43 PM
I have no experience in anything like this, so don't laugh at my question.
I see you are having to take off up to a 1/2 inch in the high spots, would it pay to cut your slabs a little bigger and resaw them after drying before planing?
I think it would help it I would stop using junkyard blades but that's not going to happen. The price is right.
Quote from: starmac on March 15, 2018, 07:01:24 PM
Kbeitze, how wide is your bit? The reason I ask is it looks like the bit on the woodwizz is 5 inches and even an optional 6 in bit. It looks like your outfit is built heavier than the factory one, do you think yours would handle a bit that wide?
My bit is 2-1/4" wide. If I buy the right cutter head I'm sure I could go bigger. The one I bought only cost $30.00. The 5" with the insert bits cost $502.05.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Ebay.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1521160936)
Unless you wind up with the need for speed, then I think your plan is outstanding with that kind of price.
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 15, 2018, 08:42:31 PMThe 5" with the insert bits cost $502.05.
We all know you are just waiting to find one in the junk yard for a couple bucks...
I am not sure about the junkyard bands. I know of sawyers that sets nd resharpens their brand new blades, claiming it is better, especially setting them. I don't know if sometimes a tooth gets off some in the packaging or if it is just an assembly line thing.
I have read several times that guys thought their blades cut better after they have sharpened them than they did when new.
I would think your junkyard blades would probably be as good as new once sharpened. I bet someone is trashing them after one use, instead of having them sharpened.
It's a puzzle with the blades I have been finding. They come sharp and work great for a while. I don't sharpen them right like other people do but what I have been doing works for me. I still use a dremel and a hand set tool without ever taking the blade off the mill. Once I put a blade on the mill it does not ever come off until it snaps in two. I've sawed a lot of lumber like this and i know it saved me a ton of money.
Very nice work, 8)
I understand what you are talking about, but I would be tempted to buy a band and resaw a slab or two and see if it doesn't save you a bunch ow time with your planer.
I know different species of wood saws different and I have only any experience with our spruce, but it cuts nice and flat, every now and then I will hit a knot that must be harder than others and cause the blade to rise a little, but mostly they are dead on from one end to the other.
you guys have a lot of nice hardwood to work with, so it may be all together different.
Thanks. I have a box of new 4 degree blades that I use and I just finished up a box of 7 degree blades. Now I got around 40 junkies to play with . I have lots of time to do this and it's all just a hobby for me.
Great job, looks like it works good. Infinity makes a 2 inch dado planer bit that is supposed to leave a very smooth finish when used on slabs. It has carbide on both the face and edge. I think it should be turning about 18000 rpm for the best cut. One thing I find on small slabs with my cnc router is the dryer the slab is the less fuzz you see from the cut. Thanks for sharing this journey. :)
Nice work dancing-jack
Well it's working great. The only problem I had so far is the one clamp I had a rubber foot glued on the end of it using contact cement. It would not hold. It would just slide off. I fixed it with JB-weld. Now it's holding. I just wish it was a little faster. The slabs I'm working needs about 1/2" taken off each side to flatten them out. To take that much off takes around 10 minutes each side.
Well, can you take less of a bite and move faster (more than twice the speed)? Can you alter the pulley setup and boost your RPM? Do both?
looks like you need a 6" cutter. That would speed it up alot. Course those are really expensive
I did my fist hard wood today. I had some spalted Maple. It worked so much better than I hoped for. I was thinking that the hard wood would be so much harder to cut. I think it cut better than the White Pine.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Spalted_Maple~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1521393741)
any tearout on the edges? looks great.
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 17, 2018, 07:44:53 PMI just wish it was a little faster. To take that much off takes around 10 minutes each side.
Considering what you are doing, I would think that 10 minutes per side is very acceptable.
Quote from: Crusarius on March 18, 2018, 02:25:53 PM
any tearout on the edges? looks great.
Very little where the wood was kinda rotten. Nothing where the wood was good. I really want to buy a good index cutter for this machine.
One thing that really surprised me is how quite this is. If I only cut 1/4" off the slab you cant here it. The motor is real quite. The spindle makes no sound and the cutting of the wood males no noise. The only thing I here is my cable rubbing the side of the pulley that moves my carriage. When I start cutting 1/2" or more then it makes some noise.
That is sweet. that came out really nice. it makes me want to build one. I should probably finish the mill first.
Is it wrong I already started design V2 before finishing V1?
Quote from: Crusarius on March 19, 2018, 07:35:48 AMIs it wrong I already started design V2 before finishing V1?
It will never end. You will keep thinking of changes to make. Especially if you hang around here and get more ideas.
Story of my life. :)
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 14, 2018, 12:22:42 PM
You'r not that far away. Stop in...
only about 240 miles, lol. Next time Im up that way Ill give you a shout! Gene
Quote from: catalina on March 19, 2018, 01:50:15 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 14, 2018, 12:22:42 PM
You'r not that far away. Stop in...
only about 240 miles, lol. Next time Im up that way Ill give you a shout! Gene
Please do that....
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 18, 2018, 08:20:25 PMI really want to buy a good index cutter for this machine.
I was looking at pictures of that cutter. I think you could cut the insert seats on your Bridgeport with a dividing head. Probably do it on a rotary table, just more setup time.
Toolstoday had some smaller (and cheaper) index cutters.
Quote from: Larry on March 19, 2018, 09:27:22 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 18, 2018, 08:20:25 PMI really want to buy a good index cutter for this machine.
I was looking at pictures of that cutter. I think you could cut the insert seats on your Bridgeport with a dividing head. Probably do it on a rotary table, just more setup time.
Toolstoday had some smaller (and cheaper) index cutters.
I see they have a nice one for $252.68
Quote from: Kbeitz on February 06, 2018, 10:09:21 AM
Putting the acme rods on today.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Acme_rod_plate.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1517929751)
Hey kev is this 3/4 6 acme rod? What holds the brass nut when you lower it? Where did you find the brass nuts?
e-bay...Bolts provided,. .
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/nut_rod2~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1522363406)
Ok I need some 3/4
Quote from: Kwill on March 29, 2018, 07:15:10 PM
Ok I need some 3/4
Lots of 3/4" on E-bay. Just make sure you get the same cut nut. Comes in 1-2 or 3 cut.
Slow medium or fast.
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 30, 2018, 10:14:17 AM
Quote from: Kwill on March 29, 2018, 07:15:10 PM
Ok I need some 3/4
Lots of 3/4" on E-bay. Just make sure you get the same cut nut. Comes in 1-2 or 3 cut.
Slow medium or fast.
I looked on there and couldn't find any brass 3\4 6 acme nuts
Type in....
Bronze 1 Start Acme Nut, 3/4" Rod Diameter, 6
Found some round ones but none like your block one in 3\4. I did see what they call derlin. It was a block type. How's long will the regular steel ones last?
Quote from: Kwill on March 31, 2018, 10:55:17 PM
Found some round ones but none like your block one in 3\4. I did see what they call derlin. It was a block type. How's long will the regular steel ones last?
I think the steel ones will last a long time. But that's not a good thing. They need to be brass or bronze so it does not wear out the rod. Metal to metal is not good with out oil or grease. Oil or grease around wood chips and dust is not good either. There is some shaped like a pillow block bearing on E-bay. Search for "acme nut 3/4"
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 01, 2018, 08:19:06 AM
Quote from: Kwill on March 31, 2018, 10:55:17 PM
Found some round ones but none like your block one in 3\4. I did see what they call derlin. It was a block type. How's long will the regular steel ones last?
I think the steel ones will last a long time. But that's not a good thing. They need to be brass or bronze so it does not wear out the rod. Metal to metal is not good with out oil or grease. Oil or grease around wood chips and dust is not good either. There is some shaped like a pillow block bearing on E-bay. Search for "acme nut 3/4"
I seen those. Didn't like the 127.00 price per each
ell I'm ready to build an attachment. Today I went to the Flea markets for the first time this year. The weather has not been good for Flea markets yet this spring. I found a box of 63 new 3M cloth sanding belts 2" x 132" for $30.00. That was one heavy box to carry back to the Jeep. After I got home I went to the shop to look for some new rollers that I had that was for a Comez knitting machine. I took one sanding belt and wrapped it around the roller and I had around 6" left over. Could not ask for a better deal. This roller will be attached to the end of the router plane for a floating sanding roller. Anyone have any idea what speed I should spin this? The roller is 3" diameter. It's solid and heavy. The weight of the electric motor will also be on the floating arms. I will use Scotch filament tape to hold the sandpaper on the roller. The roller is 32" long and is covered with 1/2" rubber.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC08157.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1523225870)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC08156.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1523226056)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC08155.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1523226167)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC08154.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1523226384)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/nylon_tape_reinforced.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1523226473)
Funny how things work out. Pretty cool.
Speed-wise, I would think about 300-400 rpm with that diameter. What grit are those? 60? You are going to run this after you use your router plane, correct? You won't need much in the way of grit - you don't want to ruin the smooth finish the router gave you, just any little ridges between passes, right?
I would be worried that the weight distribution wouldn't be perfect and you would get more sanding on one side then the other. I think you might want to have an adjustable spring on each end to give you the right amount of pressure equally.
It will be after the router is finished. Google is saying anything for 1500 to 4000 FPM. I will balance the weight. Think I'll use a 1-1/2 hp 1725 rpm motor to start with and see how it goes. I'm guessing the sandpaper is 60 grit.
I got it finished today as the sun was going down... I did not try it yet. I used the lift of the molding head carriage to lift and lower the sander. It's lifted with a chain so I can make it float when sanding. I also used the controls.I can unplug the molder head and just plug in the sander. I add a 24 lb weight (the silver thing) to balance the weight of the electric motor. Spinning at 1725 rpm.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Drum_sander__1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1523661735)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Drum_sander_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1523661792)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Drum_sander_3.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1523661865)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Drum_sander_4.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1523661910)
I would think for the sander you would not want it to float?
Quote from: Crusarius on April 15, 2018, 08:57:00 AM
I would think for the sander you would not want it to float?
It weights around 50 lbs. I think that's enough weight on the roller...
Green wood clogs sandpaper horrible. Some species worse than others. If you give it a day or two to flash off it might sand better. Get one of those big eraser's to clean your sandpaper and it will last a lot longer.
Quote from: Larry on April 15, 2018, 09:04:15 PM
Green wood clogs sandpaper horrible. Some species worse than others. If you give it a day or two to flash off it might sand better. Get one of those big eraser's to clean your sandpaper and it will last a lot longer.
I let my slabs dry before it goes in this machine. So I hope I don't have this problem.
A sawmill, a spiral cant saw, a slab planer/ router, now a sander,
All in one machine. Using junkyard blades and stuff from the dump.
All I can say is wow, I tip my hat to you, sir.
Mr K just read this whole thread, all I can say is WOW. I do have one question, do you ever sleep?
Thanks for sharing.
:laugh:.