Husqy 55 clutch problem

[kyfarmer]

I have a '98 model 55 rancher with a 20 inch bar and a clutch that really likes to slip. I replaced the clutch last fall, near the  end of  firewood cutting, and it worked pretty good at first but the new one has started slipping now.  The drum looks to be in good shape, no scoring or galling. Is there a better aftermarket clutch available? Will a clutch from a larger Husqy saw fit my Rancher? The clutch has 2 "shoes" with only a small of contact with the drum. Is there a clutch design that allows more surface contact with the drum?   Thanks for any suggestions

[oldsaw]

There just isn't much room in there, I checked it out.  After reading your post, I went down to the local Husky dealer and took a closer look at a 55.  The clutch seems to be the weak link in what otherwise appears to be a pretty well built saw.  It just seems awful small for a saw of that size.

I have a well used 066 that I use primarily as a milling saw.  It saw some good use in BC, where the trees grow big, and the clutch looked like it had taken down quite a few.  It's a poster boy for scored up clutches.  I very carefully recontoured the dogs with a file to smooth up the grooves and ran some sandpaper in the drum to try to make that a bit prettier.  All in the interest of increasing contact area. I was pretty sure that I would have to replace the whole thing, but it hasn't slipped at all.  I've even had every available inch buried in three huge red oak logs (about 28" of bar with 36" Alaskan mill) ripping, and she will bog down to a near stop just like it is supposed to .  

I think the biggest problem is that the 55 was designed as a "consumer" saw, and you are treating it like it was a pro.  The best solution I think will be to upgrade to one of the beefier Huskys.  That clutch just wasn't designed to deal with the stuff you've thrown at it.

Hope this helps.

[jokers]

I`m going to make a suggestion that will on the surface seem offensive but it really isn`t meant to be in any way. First, learn to file or otherwise sharpen your chain well, and second run the saw with the throttle pinned and without forcing it too much. What is too much? Any amount of pressure that causes the "in cut" rpms to drop enough to make your saw sound like it`s lugging or laboring. Saw clutches engage with centrifugal force which is lower at lower rpms, right?

Another negative factor in addition to a less than sharp chain is an improperly adjusted carb leading to low top end power, leaving you with a saw easily sucked down out of it`s power band. You might also want to consider a lower profile chain or smaller rim if you have anything larger than a 7 tooth.

I`m willing to bet that I or any other well experienced saw operator could use your saw and find nothing wrong with it in regard to the clutch.

Consider what I`m saying before you let the words offend you.

Russ

[Ianab]

What Jokers said, and are you sure the clutch springs are the right ones?
The wrong spring could make the clutch slip at higher rpm ?

otherwise... Keep the Revs Up  ;) :D

ian

[kyfarmer]

Well, I keep the chain sharp, filter clean, and the clutch, sprocket,  and spring are OEM for the saw. I have never tried to "lug" the saw when I am cutting. For the first 5 years of the  saws life if I got it in a bind (pinched or a little too aggressive) it would hear the rpm's start to drop and back-off. Last year the clutch started slipping so I replaced it and finished the season (maybe 4 more ricks) everything was cool. Just a few trees into this season (lightning got a couple large white oaks by my house) I noticed the clutch started slipping again.
 I am a noob on this forum but not at working around/with saws.The first saw I operated was a blue Poulan many years ago helping Dad cut firewood. I consider myself experienced (25+ years) at using chainsaws and currently own 3.
  I posted a question on Husky's site and they said they only make the one clutch that will fit the 55 and I might try replacing the drum or using emery cloth on mine as it might be glazed. So I gave it a good sanding (240grit emery cloth) and tomorrow I will see how it does.
  So back to one of my original questions.. Does anyone know of an aftermarket clutch set-up that might be better than the OEM? (Like a 3 shoe design) In the event the sanding  doesn't do the trick      Thanks

[jokers]

Hi kyfarmer,

When you replaced the clutch last year, did you replace the drum, the shoes, or the whole assembly of drum and shoes? Normally the shoes will last through atleast a few drums but maybe your shoes are on the small end of the tolerance and not binding as tightly as they should. Is there alot of crud or anything else binding the shoes and preventing them from fully extending and thus engaging the drum? Are the shoes themselves glazed? How about the chain, sprocket and bar, are they all in good shape and the proper pitch? Is there any impacted sawdust in the bar groove or tip? When you broke the glaze with the 240 grit, why didn`t you use a more coarse grit? You don`t want the surfaces to be slippery do you? What is your cutting setup, ie; chain pitch and type, bar length, solid or sprocket tip, number of teeth on the drive sprocket?

Considering the vast number of 55s in use and the amount of wood that they have cut with no common clutch problem, I`m saying that your problem is something other than any inherent weakness in the clutch.

Russ

[SasquatchMan]

Not familiar with the 55 clutch set up, so this might not apply, and if it's  in the other posts and I missed it, sorry all.  But in my saw, the bearings on the shaft are inside the clutch drum, and if a guy over greased them when he serviced the saw, I can see grease getting all over the inside of the drum - then you would get a glazing problem, i suspect.  Just a thought.  But Jokers is right - there's a million billion perfectly functional 55r clutches around... so there's something wrong with how yours is operating due to setup or some other factor....

[kyfarmer]

Jokers, I really appreciate your information and will try to answer your questions in order.
1.I replaced the shoes and spring (an assembly from Husky) the drum looked to be in good shape.
2.When I took it back apart the other night, everything was clean except for a fine "dust" that was in the drum.
3.Shoes look good  but have a  narrow wear pattern starting, maybe 3/4" or so wide.
4.All are in good shape, the pitch is 3/8
5.no impacted sawdust, I checked it the other night when I had it apart. I regularly clean it when  flip the bar ( every 3rd sharpening)
5.I used 240 because that is the only grit I currently have,I sanded side to side instead of around the drum.
6.3/8,
7.type? I tell the local dealer I need a chain for my Rancher with a 20" bar and he hands me an Oregon package. When I replace the chain on my 017, the package has a lot of green at the top but I think the Rancher chain package has yellow on it? "Hope this helps"
8. 20 inch bar,sprocket nose (regularly greased)
9.Don't know the number of teeth, the sprocket is original

My local dealer is getting a drum and clutch in this week and he told me to bring mine in and we are going to compare mine to the new ones.
 I used the saw today and it seemed  better, got it in a bind and it actually bogged the motor a little.
 The thing that is puzzling to me is the saw didn't gradually start slipping. It started all at once. I was used to listening to the "tone" of the motor to know how hard I could push the saw, then one day the chain  just stopped turning but the motor would keep revving. I "babied" it through the day and put the new clutch in the next week(last fall). The saw seemed to be back to normal then it started doing it again last week. Sorry for being so long winded.        Thanks for any suggestions

[jokers]

KYfarmer,

Did you find out anything from the comparison with the new components?

Did you state that you have the original drive sprocket or am I mistaken? It must have some significant wear doesn`t it?

Russ

[Kevin]

Something else to check is the free movement of the chain when the saw is on the bench.
If the bar is bent or pinched or the nose sprocket is damaged it could be putting a load on before you even start to cut.
Make sure all the components match and don't just take the dealers word on it, they make mistakes too.

[jokers]

Good points as always, Kevin.

Russ

[kyfarmer]

Finally made it to the saw shop. My clutch has an O.D of 2.615 and the new one is 6.621 (.006 wear?) , my drum has an I.D. of 2.715 and the new one is 2.706 (.009 wear?). These  numbers seem pretty close to me, but does this look like it could be causing the slipping?
 The sprocket is a 7 tooth and is showing only a small amount of wear. The chain moves freely around the bar and the bar is straight(checked it on a granite surface plate).  Any help appreciated.    Thanks