Build Track & Bunks for millhead

thecfarm · October 29, 2020, 08:28:10 PM

I would make the track long. I have a mill that will cut 20 foot logs. Makes cutting 16 foot logs easy. I have 4 feet of extra room, not inches. Also allows me to get the head out of my way.

shadowdev · October 30, 2020, 07:58:55 AM

Quote from: thecfarm on October 29, 2020, 08:28:10 PM
I would make the track long. I have a mill that will cut 20 foot logs. Makes cutting 16 foot logs easy. I have 4 feet of extra room, not inches. Also allows me to get the head out of my way.

Hi thecfarm,
Thanks for the advice.
I'm starting with 20ft single sections (longest available) of track and am planning on another 5ft in the spring.
Thanks again,
SD

Crusarius · October 30, 2020, 10:37:33 AM

I don't know where your at. But where I am, angle and flat come in 20' lengths, tube (square/rectangle) comes in 24' lengths.

shadowdev · October 30, 2020, 01:33:27 PM

Quote from: Crusarius on October 30, 2020, 10:37:33 AM
I don't know where your at. But where I am, angle and flat come in 20' lengths, tube (square/rectangle) comes in 24' lengths.

Yup, that's exactly what's available here as well.
I'm using two single 20' lengths of angle for track and a 24' rectangle cut into 43.5 sections for the bunks.
SD

mike_belben · October 31, 2020, 09:12:54 AM

Quote from: shadowdev on October 10, 2020, 10:36:03 AM[....] fear of the millhead jumping. That helps settle my mind quite a bit.
The question arose when looking at just how much slack space there was in the wheel slot when comparing between 1/4" & 5/16". See the image below shows the actual slot as just over 5/16".

You will be fine with a lot of slot clearance, once the blade hits the wood the carriage will pull in and slop will be taken out. My chainsaw track cutter has a roller groove thats about 3 times as wide as the flange it runs on. And only on one side. opposite the powerhead i just used little casters riding on a flat to keep the bar parallel. It makes good lumber with no issue. Once in the cut it will not jump.

They dont even have bearings. Just steel roundstock pucks riding on hardened shoulder bolts. Sometimes a wheel skids along for a foot or two and i cant feel it or see it. There is so much vibration from the saw that the carriage could be a flat sled and still "roll" ... Sorta like how a plate compactor travels fine when its hopping.

shadowdev · November 12, 2020, 05:17:28 AM

Quote from: mike_belben on October 31, 2020, 09:12:54 AM
Quote from: shadowdev on October 10, 2020, 10:36:03 AM[....] fear of the millhead jumping. That helps settle my mind quite a bit.
The question arose when looking at just how much slack space there was in the wheel slot when comparing between 1/4" & 5/16". See the image below shows the actual slot as just over 5/16".

You will be fine with a lot of slot clearance, once the blade hits the wood the carriage will pull in and slop will be taken out. My chainsaw track cutter has a roller groove thats about 3 times as wide as the flange it runs on. And only on one side. opposite the powerhead i just used little casters riding on a flat to keep the bar parallel. It makes good lumber with no issue. Once in the cut it will not jump.

They dont even have bearings. Just steel roundstock pucks riding on hardened shoulder bolts. Sometimes a wheel skids along for a foot or two and i cant feel it or see it. There is so much vibration from the saw that the carriage could be a flat sled and still "roll" ... Sorta like how a plate compactor travels fine when its hopping.

Thank you Mike,
You've confirmed what others have said and Yes, I've nearly finished the build up and the 1/4" angle is working just fine with the rollers I have.
I'll be posting pics and details of the build shortly.
Thank you again,
SD

shadowdev · November 12, 2020, 06:23:15 AM

Hi Everyone,
I'd like to 'Thank You All Very Much' for the support and encouragement in getting this project moving in the right direction.
I've built out a 20' track for this time with plans to add another 10-15' next spring.

Pieces already in stock:
Mill Head
Log clamp assemblies (no slide pipe)

Steel Materials:
Track: (2) Angle 2x3x.250x20ft
Bunks: (6) 2x6x.250x42.5" (Cut by supplier)
Log Stops: (3ft sections) 2x2 & 1.5x1.5 square tube
Log clamp slide pipe: 1" round pipe

Track support:
(14) 4x8x16 solid cement block
(4) 7"x7"x12' Pine in two sections for each side (Local lumber mill didn't have 10' lengths in stock)
(10) Simpson strong tie angle brackets (ML28Z)
(Box) TapCon concrete anchors (1.75")
(@ 25) 1/2" x 5 Lag screws
(@ 25) 3/8" x 4 Lag screws

Based on your advices, here are the steps I took to ensure a solid and level track.
1. Dug a 4-6" deep x 6ft wide x 30ft long trench and fill with 2" of 3/4 cut stone (gravel).

2. Position & level (front/back & side/side) the 4x8x16 cement blocks along each side of the trench.
3. Position & level (front/back & side/side) the 7x7 pine on top of the 4x8x16 cement blocks.
4. Ensure level to within 1/16".
5. Place angle iron along the 7x7 and ensure level.

6. Drilled bunks with 1/2" holes along bottom for both drainage and 1/2" lag bolt through angle iron.
7. Placed bunks on angle, completed the 1/2" holes through angle iron, bolted down and ensured blade clearance and level.
8. Placed mill head on track, started it and ran along track to help vibrate down 7x7's and cement blocks.
9. Ensured level front/back & side/side.
10. Installed Simpson angle brackets on cement blocks and bolted to 7x7 with 3/8"x4 lag screws then used TapCon cement anchors to secure bracket to cement blocks.

12. Ran mill again to vibrate & checked level. Confirmed to within a 1/32 which was a very nice surprise!
13. Removed two bunks, fabricated & welded log stops with the 2x2 & 1.5x1.5 square tube and reinstalled.
14. Cut a log and confirmed board thickness to near perfect.
;)

15. Cut 1" pipe to length, drilled 3/8" holes for lag screws, slid on the log clamp assemblies and bolted through track. (Not shown)
16. Finished filling in the trench with 3/4 cut stone to help prevent cement block movement. (Not shown)

17. Took a nice long nap

Question:
Crusarius mentioned 'HDPE Bunk Covers' in an earlier post; how so? What material; like a drain pipe cut open and wrapped around the top?

Thanks again to everyone!
SD

mike_belben · November 12, 2020, 08:46:45 AM

No like a plastic cover to put on the bed and prevent stain. While back i bought some sticky backed, literally peel and stick thin sheets of either a nylon or delrin or maybe uhmw.. It is a guy who sells the stuff as slick material for facing outna tablesaw fence to reduce binding. Was cheap. Cant tell ya who but maybe google can.

Crusarius · November 12, 2020, 08:54:10 AM

Anything will be better than painted steel. or bare steel. But you will benefit most from something like UHMW that is slippery and gives you the ability to slide logs and lumber much easier. Plus its extremely durable. Durable to the point it is used as a skidplate under my jeep.

shadowdev · November 12, 2020, 01:33:04 PM

Quote from: Crusarius on November 12, 2020, 08:54:10 AM
Anything will be better than painted steel. or bare steel. But you will benefit most from something like UHMW that is slippery and gives you the ability to slide logs and lumber much easier. Plus its extremely durable. Durable to the point it is used as a skidplate under my jeep.

Oh Yeah, that's the stuff.
I was thinking about simply getting some 3-4" HDPE (it's about 1/4" thick) pipe at Home Depot, cut to bunk length @32", then slice down the center, heat and pry it over the bunks.
What do you think?
Otherwise, I'd need to find the material and affix it somehow to the bunk tops. Not sure about that yet.
Thanks again,
SD

Crusarius · November 12, 2020, 01:57:46 PM

Since when do they have HDPE pipe? that new to me. If its 1/4" thick you can just screw it down with a flat head screw. just have to countersink it into the plastic. Make sure it is far enough below the surface it won't be proud when the plastic wears.

Crusarius · November 12, 2020, 01:58:23 PM

you could just cut it into 2" wide strips and screw it down. the screws should be able to pull it flat.

shadowdev · November 12, 2020, 03:15:54 PM

Quote from: Crusarius on November 12, 2020, 01:57:46 PM
Since when do they have HDPE pipe? that new to me. If its 1/4" thick you can just screw it down with a flat head screw. just have to countersink it into the plastic. Make sure it is far enough below the surface it won't be proud when the plastic wears.

Oh, yeah you may be right, Home depot might not carry this.

Figured this type of thing would be good as to wrap around the bunk instead of screwing as I thought a heavy log would rip a topping off if slid into the side with any force.

I'll keep ya'll posted with progress.

SD

Crusarius · November 13, 2020, 06:55:42 AM

to bad you didn't use round for the bunks could have slipped that right over the top and had rollers and bunk covers in one.

Might still be able to.

Dana Stanley · November 13, 2020, 08:59:45 AM

Are the bunks welded or bolted to the angle, or just lagged through the track into the beams? I would recommend you bolt or weld the bunks to the track!

If you don't use stainless, I would suggest you find a flat durable plastic use vhb tape and counter sunk screws. if you know of a place that lines dump beds, they would likely have scraps they would give you. That stuff is made to have rocks dumped on it, it comes in huge rolls, I think 1/4". Bed Liner

shadowdev · November 13, 2020, 04:20:12 PM

Quote from: Dana Stanley on November 13, 2020, 08:59:45 AM
Are the bunks welded or bolted to the angle, or just lagged through the track into the beams? I would recommend you bolt or weld the bunks to the track!

If you don't use stainless, I would suggest you find a flat durable plastic use vhb tape and counter sunk screws. if you know of a place that lines dump beds, they would likely have scraps they would give you. That stuff is made to have rocks dumped on it, it comes in huge rolls, I think 1/4". Bed Liner

Bunks are bolted through the track angle and into the 7x7 beams.
I'll keep my eyes open for what cover may work best and keep ya'll posted.
Thank you again,
SD

Crusarius · November 14, 2020, 10:16:50 AM

try this. looks like decent prices

HDPE SHEET | BLACK

I may have just found a supplier.

Being 1" thick you can just cut strips off of it for the thickness you want. it cuts real easy with a tablesaw.

shadowdev · January 21, 2021, 08:40:02 PM

Update:

Hi Everyone,
Just an update on how the mill is working.

All in all, pretty good. Engine; 15hp, electric start, runs well and pulls strong. Mill wheels & guides work fine. I replaced the mill-head raise & lower crank assembly with higher quality screw rod & bearings which made a big difference for smooth up & down motion. Drip watering system is ok; the tank is only one gallon which needs filling quite often but meh, there's only so much more milling to do before everything is cut and the building starts.

Your advice about (20') 2x3x.25" angle iron as track was exactly correct and the mill rides very smoothly. Your advice for 6" bunk material is perfect for height. I fabricated log stops with 1.5" & 2" square material which are nice and strong. Log dogs are simple screw type and work well.
Track leveled without too much trouble and has stayed solid.

I extended the track another 10' for a total length of 30' with effective cut of @ 26-27' which was needed to cut 21' beams & 26' rafter material for our barn project.
Still considering whether to stick build the roof or simply go with trusses for a 30' open first floor plan; undecided.

Overall, pretty happy with the mill especially when a new blade is installed at which point it's like a new machine.

Thank you once again for all of your helps and support,
Cheers,
SD

thecfarm · January 22, 2021, 06:36:53 AM

Logs stops, mine go straight up and down, with a small "T" handle to adjust them. I put inch marks on mine, a ½" to short. So 4 inches is really 3½ inches and 6 is really 5½ inches. So if I set the head at 4 inches for a 4 inch cut, I know I will clear the log stop by a ½ inch.

shadowdev · January 23, 2021, 04:59:25 AM

Quote from: thecfarm on January 22, 2021, 06:36:53 AM
Logs stops, mine go straight up and down, with a small "T" handle to adjust them. I put inch marks on mine, a ½" to short. So 4 inches is really 3½ inches and 6 is really 5½ inches. So if I set the head at 4 inches for a 4 inch cut, I know I will clear the log stop by a ½ inch.

I see, that's a good idea.

Right now I'm just finishing up the rough cuts on the logs and will re-saw with fresh blades when time comes to mill to final dimensions and quality. I'll think to do the same as you've done

Thanks for that,
SD

Crusarius · January 23, 2021, 10:45:36 AM

I made mine rotate up all linked together with a crank at the head of the mill. I love the fact they are all linked together but really do not like them rotating. They are a royal PITA to square to the bed.

But being able to just turn the crank (trailer jack) and have all 4 go up and down the same is great. I also made the first one 1/2" higher than the rest from the advice of another ff member. So if the first one clears the rest are clear.

If I had to do it again I would probably do the same thing linking them all together but would have a driveshaft and roller chains on each one to go straight up and down.