Picking my first timber framing chisels and slick

[future_vision]

Just get started with timber framing and looking to get my tools in order. I think most don't require a ton of pickiness but when it comes to chisels and a slick I think it probably matters more. What brand would you all suggest? I've looked at Robert Sorby, MHG Messerschmidt, Barr Tools, Northmen and various Japanese chisels and slicks. I don't mind spending more for quality.

[Dave Shepard]

Spend more for antique. I don't know of any modern chisels that are shaped the way the old ones were. Barr are very high quality tools, but are so much different than the old ones, I won't use them. 

[Ljohnsaw]

Check out @Jim_Rogers  listings of timber framing tools.  He probably has a slick or two available.

[logman]

I like Barr but haven't really ever used anything else to compare them to.  

[Ljohnsaw]

I should have mentioned that I have two 2" antique slicks and several other 1.5" and 1" longer chisels (not quite a slick).  A couple I had to rebuild/add a socket that were destroyed by a previous owner.  Got mine from eBay.

[Brad_bb]

You don't need a slick to start out with.  It's a nice to have if you're cutting a whole frame, but when you're just starting out and learning, you don't need it.  I'd wait on that until you are really into the craft cutting a lot of joinery.

[future_vision]

Check out @Jim_Rogers  listings of timber framing tools.  He probably has a slick or two available.

I have absolutely no idea what to look for in his list. What antique brands are good?

[Jim_Rogers]

Check out @Jim_Rogers  listings of timber framing tools.  He probably has a slick or two available.

I have absolutely no idea what to look for in his list. What antique brands are good?

Most all of them are good ones.
Jim Rogers

[Ljohnsaw]

Check out @Jim_Rogers  listings of timber framing tools.  He probably has a slick or two available.

I have absolutely no idea what to look for in his list. What antique brands are good?

Jim only sells quality stuff - he is an institution here so don't worry about the quality, his reputation is on the line!

[Jim_Rogers]

Check out @Jim_Rogers  listings of timber framing tools.  He probably has a slick or two available.

I have absolutely no idea what to look for in his list. What antique brands are good?

Jim only sells quality stuff - he is an institution here so don't worry about the quality, his reputation is on the line!

John: thanks for your kind words.
Jim

[Tom King]

If antique chisels weren't good to start with, they would never have made it to the point of actually being an antique.

I have one Barr 1-1/2" chisel, and don't find it better or worse than my old ones.  I do tend to reach for the old one first.

My favorite slick is my old Japanese one.  Second favorite is a newish Japanese one.

I have more invested in sharpening equipment than timber chisels, and wouldn't want to be without the sharpening setup.  To me, sharp is more important than when the tool was made, especially in a hand pushed slick.

[Jim_Rogers]

Most of the chisels we sell are "barn finds" or tools that were grandfather's or other parent's tool.
These tools could have been purchased for the construction of one barn/frame. And once that barn/frame was done it was never used again. 
It is hard to say why these tools were not sharpened to the point of being useless. 
Not every tool user was a professional timber framer who used it every day for years.

We inspected each tool for the amount of high carbon steel forge welded to the back of the body of the chisel, as best we can.

We stand behind our chisels and have some returned for various reasons. One the cone broke; one the chisel became delaminated. Sometimes things happen.

Jim Rogers

[Prizl tha Chizl]

I've built my small collection, (several 1 1/2's, a 2", a 3" slick and a couple of corner chisels,) from flea markets and old tool dealers, and have never been disappointed with the steel I've found, regardless of stamp. I had a $30 limit for a number of years, but I've certainly put the cost difference in the tools I've picked up into the time I've spent reconditioning them, buying vintage tools that have already been restored by a professional would certainly be worth the extra expense.

[future_vision]

Most of the chisels we sell are "barn finds" or tools that were grandfather's or other parent's tool.
These tools could have been purchased for the construction of one barn/frame. And once that barn/frame was done it was never used again.
It is hard to say why these tools were not sharpened to the point of being useless.
Not every tool user was a professional timber framer who used it every day for years.

We inspected each tool for the amount of high carbon steel forge welded to the back of the body of the chisel, as best we can.

We stand behind our chisels and have some returned for various reasons. One the cone broke; one the chisel became delaminated. Sometimes things happen.

Jim Rogers

Thanks. I'll take a look again. Also going to revisit the antique shops in the area. In the past I always walked past the tool section

[Don P]

I prefer full width, good sides, not one that was used for a tire iron, watch the pitting, if the entire back of the edge cannot be made flat and bright it will not take an edge. I've rarely known or cared about the pedigree. 

[classicadirondack]

I have found that "newer" tools probably were made from recycled steels and contained contaminants from many recycles whereas antique tools more than likely were cast from virgin ores.  I have several Witherby's and Swan's and love their feel .Been disappointed in my only Barr

[future_vision]

Found an antique show that happens every Sunday. Visiting local antique dealers didn't turn up anything but a lot of handheld drills and hand planes. Oh the huge number of planes!