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How to secure the mill head for transport

Started by DanMc, October 20, 2016, 07:31:25 PM

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DanMc

I want to be able to move my mill around (Woodland HM126).  That's in the other thread about building a base for the mill.  But in order to haul it on the road, there needs to be a solid way to secure the mill head so it's not moving around, or wearing a flat spot on the rollers.

Tomorrow I'm hauling it up to NH, so I used a couple blocks to raise the head about 1/2" off the track, yet keep it low enough so the frame is still below the top of the track.  I have a bunch of ratchet straps to hold everything tight.  This is way too much work to do every time I need to move the machine. 

Those of you with portable mills -- what kind of mechanisms do your mills use for safe transport?  I don't want to reinvent the wheel, so I'm sure there are some clever designs out there.  I can readily weld some brackets and stuff to my mill once it's figured out. 


LT35HDG25
JD 4600, JD2210, JD332 tractors.
28 acres of trees, Still have all 10 fingers.
Jesus is Lord.

fishfighter

Some tabs weld to the base that hang down to were you can pass a bolt thru the track. If it is secure good, I don't think you would wear down a flat spot on the wheels. You might want to call woodland. They have plans to build a trailer and I'm sure they have a way to secure the head.

thecfarm

The Thomas that I have uses two pieces of ½ inch flat stock,I think 4 inches wide,8 inches long with a ½ inch hole for a half inch bolt on each end. One flat piece under the bed and one on top. These pieces was only used to bring the mill here. I have not moved it since. I do use one to keep it from rolling on the rails when I am not using it.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

sawmilljoe

I drilled a hole in the tube between  the carriage wheels on both sides. Ànd one in the rail on each side  then just put a pin in them.

sandsawmill14

here is how timberking done it :)

 
if you look right below the orange uprights you can see 2 brackets that hang down below the bed rails with a hole in each one the back side of the mill in the pic is the same :) there is a hole in the bed rails so you can pin it in either the front or back hole to help balance tongue weight  :) the brackets are L shaped to keep head from bouncing or tipping off of the rails :) sorry i dont have a closer pic but thats the best one i could find in my gallery :)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

Roundhouse

I detailed my transport bracket in the other thread but have since found a couple photos that show it in place a little better.

Since I didn't use all the holes for leveling feet there are some open ones and I use two for securing the head to the trailer. This photo shows how the holes in the angle iron line up with the holes in the track. You can also see the small pieces that align the bracket to the head frame. I circled where the bolt comes down through the rails, the nut threads up this bolt against the rail to hold the head in place.



Looking from the other side, you can see the pipe between the bolts (gate hinges). Also, the nut on top of the angle iron that holds the top side.



I'm pretty anal about not cutting, drilling or welding on the mill head itself preferring something that would bolt over both sides at once, depending on differences between this and the HM126 your mileage may vary.
Woodland Mills HM130, 1995 F350 7.3L, 1994 F350 flatbed/crane, 1988 F350 dump, Owatonna 770 rough terrain forklift, 1938 Allis-Chalmers reverse WC tractor loader, 1979 Ford CL340 Skid Steer, 1948 Allis-Chalmers B, 1988 Yamaha Moto-4 200, various chain saws

kng

I would like to see some photos of the WoodMizer LT40 head secure pin.
2015 LT15G19 with Power Feed and custom trailer

WV Sawmiller

Quote from: kng on October 24, 2016, 02:33:10 PM
I would like to see some photos of the WoodMizer LT40 head secure pin.

I don't have a picture on an LT40 but I bet mine is the same. It is flip up pin about 3/4" or larger in diameter that mates with a hole drilled on a plate in the head. The travel pin is located such that the head is balanced at/near the center of the trailer so the tongue can be lifted on to the trailer ball with enough tongue weight to hold it down (I think my tongue weight is something like 150 lbs or thereabouts). I simply flip up and lock the travel pin, move and lower the head till it is centered on it, lower it till it rests on, but is not forcing the head down, lock the safety chain on the trailer in the eye on the head for extra support (should I ever bounce it hard enough to move it off the pin) so it can't roll forward or back in a worst case situation. It is really a simple but seems like a sturdy design.

I'd look at the WM design in setting up your travel plans - other portable mills likely have comparable sturdy designs with pros and cons as to what works best for your situation.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

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