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Hickory Door

Started by TimW, May 28, 2019, 12:17:06 AM

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samandothers

@tacks Y 
Your layered oak was only in the rails and styles correct?

btulloh

I would not use PVA glue on that type of door. Probably better off with some type of urea resin glue. Resorcinal.

Just my .02

ADD:  Actually Weldwood (urea resin glue) would be fine.  If the door will be immersed in salt water, then stick with the Resorcinal glue.   :D :D

For certain parts of the door where there's NO constant strain, the TBII would be ok.  The creep gives me the creeps though.
HM126

tacks Y

The raised panels are layered also, so the joints do not match

 . Here is a pic of the top of the door joint. Looks like the top is only 2 layers??

btulloh

I like it. It gives you some options for grain and figure.

Is it pure cope and stick or do have some loose tenons hiding in there?
HM126

TimW

Quote from: Brad_bb on June 10, 2019, 10:23:49 AM
Consider using 4° band if you have it.  It will take a smaller bite and is all I can use with my mill (19hp kohler engine).  Hickory is so darn hard and around knots or grain direction change, can make the balde want to ride up or down.  Dry hickory is the worst.  Really hard to band saw.  7° requires more HP, and likely more prone to waves in hickory.  I've sawn a couple green and one dry hickory barn beam that was like sawing concrete and dulled a band in one pass.

If you build a door and you glue up, if you're using titebond glue, use the original.  Don't use Titebond 2 or 2.  They have more tendency to creep (soften and let the wood move) when heated by the sun.  Original titebond is better for that. Also, will you have an all glass storm door in front of the wood door?  Such a situation, with sun shining on it, can raise temps in that space like a green house.  It would be better if it could let heat escape and not get so hot.

I recommend getting Timbor or Solubore.  Spray your wood as soon as it's sawn.  If adult PPB lay eggs in the wood, it would be months before you'd see the larvae boring and by then they'd be in the wood.  The only way to kill them in the wood is kiln sterilization.  So you want to prevent them from getting in the wood in the first place by spraying right off the mill.  Your T&G that is inside, is the building they are in sealed like a house?  Will it prevent adult beetles from coming in and laying on the wood?  If it's a floor that is installed, and it has a finish on it, a film finish like oil based urethane or water based urethane, then a film finish will prevent adult PPB from landing on it, tasting the wood startch and then laying.  If they don't taste wood starch, they won't lay on it.
My mill has a 38hp Yanmar diesel on it.  The door will not see the sun, the house will have covered porch all the way around.
hugs,  Brandi
Mahindra 6520 4WD with loader/backhoe and a Caterpiller E70 Excavator.  My mill is a Woodmizer LT40HD Wide 35hp Yanmar Diesel. An old Lull 644D-34 called Bull

tule peak timber

Rip - flip-layer, and march on. You are on the right track! Some guys use opposing grain panels (sandwiched) or a substrate in the middle. Door exposure to sun/rain is a huge factor to take into account when fabricating. Proper finishing schedule....... ;D
persistence personified - never let up , never let down

bluthum

All doors should have a big over hang /porch, perfect world. That's out of the way, good for you.

I've built a lot of sandwich doors without the cope and stick approach. Three layers, middle layer is cut to act as the tenon. Cope and stick for an  exterior door might be better with a floating spine anyway. 


tule peak timber

Agreed ,,, and you can do more....Hope you are going to the pig roast !
persistence personified - never let up , never let down

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