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Belsaw swaging

Started by tapper2, October 25, 2011, 09:29:38 PM

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tapper2

Hey all, just curious about where to buy an upset swage for my mill. It's an old M-14 with a 40" blade. The blade binds a bit 1/2 way through the cut. A few folks have suggested swaging. I've seen my grandfather swage/sharpen many times, but I've looked a bit and can't really find a swage for sale for my own......any suggestions? Thanks
Belsaw m14, 1992 Ford 1720, Homebuilt  bandmill, Franklin 120b & a bunch of worn out, banged up stuff........gotta love it.

Jeff

Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Dave_

Watch ebay.  They show up from time to time.

Ron Wenrich

Menominee or your saw doc.  I haven't used a swage in years.  I'm running chrome teeth, and those can't be swaged.  I'm curious what you mean by "binding up".  That may have more to do with track alignment or lead than bits. 
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

bandmiller2

Tapper,does your saw have incerted bits or is it solid tooth.? Solid tooth saw are pretty much a thing of the past and require special maintenance such as rounding and gumming  and it hard to keep the gullet the proper shape.If its the Belsaw incerted tooth saw just replace the bits, theirs only a small handfull of them.I have swages but only use them on a damaged teeth,swaging is a simple proceedure that requires skill,I just replace the bits when worn. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

tapper2

Hey  thanks guys. It's a 40" inserted tooth blade. I've got abunch of extra teeth for it but aren't you supposed to swage them?? I also would like to get some new crank gears for the headblocks (the ones that crank and ride in the notches on the carriage when you move headblock in or out) kinda hard to explain.  The carriage may be getting pulled out of alignment in the cut due to this wear, in turn causing the blade to bind?? The teeth on these pulleys are worn down and have a bit of slop. The notches seem to be quite good. Can you get all the parts for these old saws?
Belsaw m14, 1992 Ford 1720, Homebuilt  bandmill, Franklin 120b & a bunch of worn out, banged up stuff........gotta love it.

captain_crunch

Forget need to swedge replacable teeth. Now about set work issue on lever there is a cam that goes from to saw and away will bet it is worn Half round critter needs built up and reshaped or on big gear has rust or debris has plugged teeth
M-14 Belsaw circle mill,HD-11 Log Loader,TD-14 Crawler,TD-9 Crawler and Ford 2910 Loader Tractor

Ron Wenrich

They have changed the shape of the teeth somewhat over the years.  They aren't as tapered as they used to be.  If your teeth were too narrow and required swaging, your saw would be heating up, not binding.  If you think its the teeth, then replace them and see if that doesn't solve your problem.

I'm thinking something is either moving or out of alignment.  Timberking is a sponsor on the Forum, and they bought out  Belsaw.  That would be your source for parts. 
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Lambee10

I wrote in a few weeks ago about a Frick saw that a farmer has.  I took his word for what it was and we made a plan to remove it out of the woods to get it to my farm.  He then mentions he has found the owners manual for it and hands me a manual for a Foley-Belsaw M-14. Frick, Foley- i guess he was close. ::)

Anyhow, I have the manual and can try to scan the exploded parts assembly and listing if that will help.  The trouble shooting guide does not mention binding half way through the log.
All animals like me...at feeding time.

M-14 Belsaw and the toys to go with it.

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