M-14 - Engine vibration transferred to mill frame?

[rpg52]

Sandhills,
The knob on my 3-71 is connected directly to the rack of injectors, no cable.  I've been thinking of drilling and tapping the knob to install a lever onto it.  I'd need a fairly long cable or wire - probably 8' or more to get from where I stand to the engine.  It could be done, just not easily.
Ray

[bandmiller2]

Ray,I've got an old Dagenham diesel on my mill,I just set the governor to the speed I want [1800 rpm] and hooked a cable run to the sawyers box from the lever on the side of the injection pump.I mounted a old time type parking brake control the type with the knob on top to adjust where I stand, basically an overcenter lever.You could also use an outboard motor remote control.A wire cable run through a couple of small pulleys is simple and trouble free.It is also good form to have a quick method to declutch the engine from where you stand

[paul case]

my neighbor used to power his circle mill with a detroit. he ran a cable thru a couple pulleys and to a homemade wooden haandle nailed on the side of the mandrel housing. he  called it his wooptydo stick.   pc

[captain_crunch]

My throttle is kinda a spider web lash up ;D ;D I have a clamp that hooks to hand throttle on tractor and with about 4 small pullys and 60 ft of 1/4 in nylon rope with a weight in end of each where I can reach up to grab them.  Kinda crude but it works.
I don't know where you would look but the old Terex scrapers had a 453 detroit in rear so they had to have a cable long enough to reach to it from front,
Another thought is to un thread knob and weld a chain link to a piece of square stock tapped to same thread as knob. A spring on linkage strong enough to pull throttle shut(as to only need one cable not to mention a fault in cable would shut er down)
Then one of them ratchet parking brake critters like the VWs use to have. My only concern would be is if it has enough travel to opperate throttle without haveing to fab a lever to get more pull ??? ???

[rpg52]

I'll have to look at the assembly of the knob again.  I seem to have spent the last few years trying to fab up various assemblies to allow remote control of the engine - I just got a cord set up to pull off the clutch - still haven't gotten anything for throttle control - meanwhile I've been building a sawdust drag - should be pretty cool if it goes as planned.  It will elevate the sawdust out the end of the track and dump into a trailer.  Taking a lot of back of the envelope engineering though.  It seems that I'll be working away on this thing for a while longer.  Only been plugging away for ~6 years, no sense rushing now.
8)
Ray

[Tripp]

 


I used a tractor pto cable to remotely control the carb on my engine. When I pull the red knob, in the left side of the picture, it overides the governor and throttles the engine back to idle. I also have a key switch, from tracton supply, that I start the engine with and can shut it down if necessary. I also mounted a tach in the sawyers box so I can tell what the engine is doing while I am sawing. I have found this very helpful.  My dust chain is also controlled from the sawyers box so it can be turned on and off when necessary. It is run with a 110v motor and a reduction box.

I believe tractor pto cables can be purchased up to about 15 feet in length.

Tripp

[Stan snider]

Cap C;  Your Terex idea made me think about using a trailer brake valve out of a semi tractor and an air pot or cylinder.  iIf compressed air was handy it would be easy to rig up , unlimited length and could go anywhere. Terex uses air controls on the rear engine. Stan

[Birk-man]

Hi all,

As long as this thread has moved in the direction of remote engine controls - here is a photo of what I plan to use for the clutch and throttle on my setup.  They were saved off a rusty old farm implement.



I'm thinking that the throttle and clutch will have springs that return them to disengaged and idle unless the levers are pulled and locked in the notches.  It would be really sweet to have the two engine RPMs I'm shooting for to get 540 and 600 for the blade speed to fall in separate notches.  That'll take some fine-tuning down the road.

The air-cooled Deutz came with a Tach, head temp gauge, oil temp gauge and an oil pressure (idiot) light.  Think I'll be able to mount them all near the control levers at the sawyer's station.

Peter

[sandhills]

Stan the air control sounds neat, and would be simple to do but seems like it may be hard to fine tune?  Please let us know how it turns out if you go that route. 
rpg52, our mills previous owner used an old grain elevator for the sawdust, we'll probably do the same as I have few sitting around.  Wouldn't be hard to customize one for the purpose and drive it off the mills power source, however I have no idea if any of these could be located anywhere near you.  Around here they're pretty common and usually just bring iron price at auction.       

[Chico]

You could use a lovejoy coupling to dampen your vibrations also

[rpg52]

Sandhill,
Unfortunately I'm not in farm country, and would have to travel a long ways to find any elevators.  Where I grew up there was lots of that stuff, but here, not so much.  I'll be an expert at building a sawmill by the time I get done with all the design stuff.

Ray

[bandmiller2]

Air or electric solenoids can be used to throttle up the engine,but they tend to snap the throttle open.That may or may not be A problem but I prefer to bring the RPM's up a little slower.If the throttle is located in a handy location you won't be tempted to leave the engine and saw at high RPM when your turning and dogging.Frank C.

[sandhills]

bandmiller 2, that was what I was wondering about.  Does anyone know of a way to regulate the pressure so that it takes the snap out of it and speeds up/ slows down gradually.  Stan Snider's idea of the trailer brake valve would be perfect but what holds the throttle where you want it after you let go of the valve lever?

[bandmiller2]

Sandhills,I would think a adjustable restriction like a needle valve in the air circuit would slow the throttle bump up.Frank C.

[Stan snider]

Sandhills:   Some trailer hand valves will stay right where you leave them, and have  very smoothe air regulation throughout their range. They start at nothing and go to tank pressure as the lever makes its stroke. After I first posted it occured to me that I have one down in the weeds that is probably OK and an air actuated vice could be built as well. I have a couple of air cylinders so maybe it's time to get to engineering. Stan

[captain_crunch]

The Terex setup would be Ideal beings it was allready a throttle. But the parking brake Idea with return spring might be safer in long run. But if you use air get a paint gun regulator and you can set flow as desired