Alaska

[uplander]

 Mrs. Uplander and I want to visit Alaska next summer by roadtripping in our RV. For those that have visited there when do you feel is the best time of year to do so and when are the bugs tolerable?

[WV Sawmiller]

   Check the areas you want to visit for weather and road conditions. Lots of Alaska's roads are gravel. I'd be wanting to go when I could see the salmon running and the bears catching them and eagles eating them and such and that seems to be around August/September. I don't remember significant issues with the bugs when we went. Remember if you wait till September you could find some roads closed for snow and such so verify the conditions where you are going.

  The last time we went was August and we had good weather and salmon and wildlife. We toured around for about 2 weeks. Good luck.

[AK Newbie]

For the best weather, minimal bugs, and lots of fishing opportunities I would suggest July as the month to visit Alaska.  Bugs are pretty bad starting mid May and into June. As we start getting warmer weather they seem to get knocked back a bit and July and August are tolerable.  In most years the end of August starts our rainy season.  But the colors start changing and it can be a beautiful time of year.  As Howard pointed out, most of the fresh water rivers and streams are full of salmon in August and September.  That makes for some great wildlife viewing as the local wildlife pack on the calories getting ready for winter!  I've been living in Alaska for almost 30 years and absolutely love this place.  I'm happy to answer any specific questions you have as you plan your trip.  

[WV Sawmiller]

   One thing I noticed when we went down on the Russian River wildlife and salmon viewing was that us tourists from the lower 48 were carrying bear spray while all the locals seemed to be carrying a large caliber handgun or a shotgun with slugs which made me wonder what they knew that I did not. : I know my BIL in Anchorage says he and may other locals buy a bear stamp every year even though they do not plan to hunt bears but if they shoot one in self-defense they can keep it while otherwise they have to turn it over to the state. I think he said a bear stamp was only about $10 for a resident. 

[doc henderson]

I guess if a tourist just makes the bear really mad with the spray, a local can shoot it and it will already be seasoned with pepper.

[WCFAK]

uplander, like AK Newbie, I would be happy to answer any questions I can about Alaska, over the last 63 years between running commercial fishing boats and flying I have seen a few places in the state, not all, but a few.

[OntarioAl]

Now how does the story go when you are in bear country with both black and grizzly bears
Oh yah you are suppose to tie bells and ribbons on your clothes and carry bear spray
So how does one tell if there are black bears or grizzly bears in the area
You do that by examining the scat (poop) piles
Black Bear scat is full of nuts and berries
Grizzly scat is full of bells and ribbons and smells like pepper 
;D ;D
Cheers
Al

[OntarioAl]

On a more serious note I would like to take 3 summer months to do the Alaska Highway and return on the Cassier Highway.  
Towing a small fifth wheel trailer.
Its on my bucket list if we eventually get the boarders open
Cheers
Al

[WV Sawmiller]

Al,

   I always heard it was 2 buddies hiking along a trail and a Grizzly reared up a couple hundred yards away, sniffed the wind and started charging straight at them. One guy started to run and the other calmly sat down and removed his hiking boots and started putting his sneakers on. The first hiker says "Are your crazy? You can't outrun a grizzly bear!" The second hiker replied "I don't have to outrun a grizzly. I just have to run faster than you." ;D

[TroyC]

I've made two RV trips to Alaska, 2010 and 2013. Both were fantastic!
In 2010 I went up first week in June. Had no clue what to do or where to go. Thankfully met a couple who became good friends. They had plans for the trip and I got to sort of follow along. Worked great for me! Left Alaska second week in August, rainy season had begun!

Second trip in 2013 was different. I learned that to salmon fish, you had to be where the salmon run up the rivers during a short period of time to be successful. I caught the run at the Russian River and the run up Kenai in Soldotna.

Got to Whitehorse around May 19 in 2013. Cold and windy. By the way, it takes at least a week of hard driving to cross Canada to the AK border from Montana. Roads are great for the first few days in Canada, then as you get farther up, they get more challenging. Between Whitehorse and the AK border will be the worst, The frost heaves will slow your RV travel to about 35 mph or lower if you are smart. Many axles and trailer hitches are damaged on this 200 or so mile stretch. We left Whitehorse with the weather deteriorating, mid 30's on May 20 and snow threatening. By the time we got to Lake Kulane the snow was heavy, the road was impossible to see, you basically drove down the middle of where you thought the road was. With a 40' pusher RV towing a full size pickup, it was 6 hrs of white knuckle and slow speeds. Once the border was crossed, weather cleared and roads were good again. Got to Anchorage two days later and it took another day or so for all the ice to melt from the wheelwells. That was a freak late winter storm that caught us but should remind everyone to just be prepared while driving to or from Alaska.

You may not take any sort of handgun, but a shotgun or bolt rifle can be declared and be permitted for transportation thru Canada after paying a fee. Be sure to check online for the latest rules and regulations. I filled out the online application and had no problems with customs. You are limited in carrying alcohol beverages, once again, check the regulations.

I did not find the bugs to be intolerable on my trips. Bad at times but not intolerable. The mosquitoes there are not like ours in the States. Up there they are huge! They sell 100% DEET at Fred Meyers (Walmart equivalent).

The beginning of June saw light use of campsite areas. By late June things started getting full and by July things get crowded. I came back both time is early August but it was probably a little early. If I go back I'll return early September.

Be prepared with a roadside RV service. Have good tires and be sure you are mechanically sound. Be prepared to have your windshield replaced when you get home. The small gravel is kicked up by oncoming vehicles. Your trailer will get sandblasted if you do not have a gravel shield under the front of it. I made one that goes under the RV bumper to the underside of the towed vehicle, worked great!

Happy travels, it is the trip of a lifetime!

[uplander]

 An update to the thread I started last year. Mrs. Uplander and I will enter
Alberta Canada about the beginning of July and head towards Banff.
Then take the Ice Fields Parkway to Jasper.

From Jasper we will head to the Alcan highway and Alaska.
We are very excited about the trip!
Travel will be in our 3/4 ton ford diesel with slide in truck camper.

Please share your memorable spots, must see places and neat areas you have been to.

Thank you to all that responded previously and are going to!

[Magicman]

I am assuming that you will take the Yellowhead Highway to Prince George and then the John Hart Highway to Dawson Creek.  Be sure to get pictures at Mile Post 0. 

The Alaska Highway begins at Mile 0 in Dawson Creek, BC. The first 613 miles/987 km of the Alaska Highway are in British Columbia, where it is designated BC Highway 97 North. The highway travels in a northwesterly direction to the Yukon  border near Watson Lake, YT (Historical Mile 635). From there it continues as Yukon Highway 1, crossing 577 miles/929 km of Yukon to Port Alcan on the Alaska border. The Alaska Highway crosses into Alaska at Historical Mile 1221.8, where it becomes Alaska Route 2. From this international border, it is 200 miles/322 km to Delta Junction, AK (Historical Mile 1422), the official end of the Alaska Highway, and 298 miles to Fairbanks, the unofficial end of the highway, at Historical Mile 1520.


Make a sign to hang in the Signpost Forest at Watson Lake.  We hung one in 1997 but I doubt that it is still there.

We did some of the touristy stuff such as the Discovery cruise in Fairbanks which was well worth the time, and the Gold Panning. 


 
We drove the Haul Road to the Arctic Circle, spent the "night",  and watched the sun not set.  We took the Denali trip to the end and also drove to all of the cities along the South end.

You may not can do and see everything but I'll guarantee that you will enjoy everything.

[TroyC]

The Liard River Hot Springs Provincial Park is definitely worth a visit. You can park across the road if you can't get a campsite. There is a short walk up to the developed spring area, a wonderful soak in some really warm water feels tremendous after battling the highway at this point.

After you leave Haines City, you will drive a day or so on some of the worst roads on the trip. Roads up to Whitehoure are relatively good. Around Destruction Bay the frost heaves will take a toll on any suspension parts that you abuse. SLOW DOWN, I'm talking 25-30 mph max for that day of driving. Many axles and springs litter the ditches.......

Once you cross the border into Alaska the roads will improve greatly. The dirt and mud will still be a problem.

Plan on a new windshield when you get back. The peagravel picked up by oncoming traffic  is almost impossible to avoid.

If you are going salmon fishing you have to figure where the fish will be. Halibut can be caught from Homer most of the time.

[TroyC]

Be careful about what you pack in your camper. Read the rules for entering Canada and abide by them. I had no issues but was checked thoroughly on the US side on my return. I think my tomatoes and bananas were confiscated.

[Magicman]

Correct.  Don't even think about carrying a firearm.

[uplander]

Correct.  Don't even think about carrying a firearm.

Well pistols are forbidden but  rifles and shotguns are allowed to be imported if I have read correctly.
I will have a .35 caliber lever gun in the camper after legal importation.

[GAB]

We went to Alaska in 2017.
We did the top of the world highway towing a travel trailer.
I'll not do that again.  Once was too often.
We saw the largest and smallest mosquitoes on that trip.
On the longest day (daylight wise) we left Fairbanks early and drove to the sign indicating we were at the Artic Circle.
Took some pictures and drove back to F'banks.  It was a rainy day and my white truck was now closer to mud red.
If you go bring lots of money and I wish you a good time.
GAB

[uplander]

 We plan to stay off the Dalton highway altogether.

Yes it is on the expensive side but when we did our cost analysis we realized two weeks in europe would be more expensive.

We are getting older and thought if we don't do it now, when?
Will the option be available in the future? Both of us have good retirement
And decided to spend the money.

[Magicman]

but rifles and shotguns are allowed to be imported if I have read correctly.

Yes they are, but have your paperwork in order or you will be shipping it back home.  LINK

[Chuck White]

Suggestion: Take lots of pictures, AND when you get back home, print them out and put an album together.

Don't see many albums these days with the introduction of the cell phone, my Sister IN-Law told me that she has over 5,000 pics on her phone!

[TroyC]

Before my trip, I went online and found a pre-registration form for firearms. Fill it out on the computer, print a couple copies, when you pull into Customs they will ask what you are declaring and specifically about firearms. I took a pump shotgun and had no issues. A lever or bolt rifle should be OK but check new and current regulations. Nothing resembling a military rifle or handgun is/was allowed. The import permit is good for 60 days I think, you have to renew it if you stay longer for the return trip. Back then it was 25.00 or so.

Many people fishing along the Russian River carried firearms for bear protection. Many had shotguns on slings while fishing. You really do not want to shoot a bear.........

You are/were allowed a small amount of alcohol and cigarettes to cross the border. Fruits and vegetables might not make it through.  I went to Nova Scotia in 2014 and my coach and tow vehicle were searched completely- slides out, cabinets open, hood up, the whole works, including mirrors under the chassis. Took an hour and we were on our way. Be polite, don't kid or joke, speak when spoken to, that sort of thing and you should be fine.

Alaska is a wonderful destination and you will have fond memories, even waiting 6 hours to get a flat changed! Take your time on the roads. Even though it will be daylight most all of your day, it does not prevent large animals from being on the roadways.

Check your insurance and be sure to have comprehensive. In most larger towns repair parts and such are available but be prepared for the expense.

I printed out a photo album when I got back. Still enjoy looking thru it.

[sawguy21]

I notice the op wants to see Banff and Jasper then head north. You will either need to head west from Jasper to Prince George then decide on your route or double back to highway 40 just west of Hinton and head north. Either one is a memorable trip but take it easy and watch for wildlife, they can be hard on vehicles. Don't try to see everything in one trip, it ain't gonna happen.

[olcowhand]

I took our youngest daughter, Stephanie to Alaska in July, 2019 (and subsequently missed an outstanding Pig Roast...). We flew, so there was no problem bringing a side arm (compliant with all applicable laws and FAA Regs). Alaska has some very "understanding" carry laws (concealed or open), as you're allowed to carry if the firearm and you are both "legal". Had no problem with bears or people, as Alaskans are great folks.
Fished the Kenai river in Soldotna during the Sockeye run, and the fishing was phenomenal. This would have been during the last week of July, into the first week of August. Our Hosts had a spot right on the Cook Inlet directly across from Mt. Redoubt.
One piece of advice an Alaskan gave me that I'll repeat any time I have the opportunity: "Never, ever- go anywhere in Alaska without your Rain Gear!".
Steve

 

[olcowhand]

 

Pics of Mt Redoubt (bottom pic is of Stephanie in our Host's Upper Floor Living Room with the volcano visible over her shoulder.....).




 

[Claybraker]

 "Never, ever- go anywhere in Alaska without your Rain Gear!".
Steve

Yup. I've only been to Illiamna when the silvers are running. Fly in fly out lodges with guides carrying 12 ga pump shotguns. Bugs can be bad.  Sunscreen is handy also at times.