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Looking at a few sawmills (advice please)

Started by jpschersch, March 21, 2018, 10:50:14 AM

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jpschersch

Quote from: Skipper11A on March 27, 2018, 10:31:18 AMIf I didn't have the big tractor I would have the sawmill mounted on the ground and use the winch to load logs (I haven't actually done that yet).  I do use the winch to turn the big ones and it works great for that!  I recommend that whichever mill you buy, make sure that you get a log loader/turner winch.  The winch will solve so many problems for you that would be impossible without a tractor or hydraulics on your mill.


When you say "the winch", does the EZ BW JR come with a winch? I didn't see that in the pictures. I did see the "log turner" on the price list (can't really find any pics...) and am wondering if that is a definite purchase if I get this thing? Or is there a different brand that works better/cheaper or recommendations from you guys! 

Any other recommendations on what are necessities if going with the EZBWJr?  I'm thinking Mill, Trailer package, 10 pk of blades (or should I go with another brand? I've read a couple threads where people go with an off brand that is cheaper but basically the same blade?), Extension (possibility, but maybe not needed), and log turner.  Also, 60" logrite I think I've read is a must...and probably a shorter one too?


Joe

f350rd

Welcome to the forum. I have the EZ Boardwalk 40 with the trailer kit, 8ft extension, and log turner. I then started to modify it when it was delivered. I am working on some other mods. soon, but I am currently on a portable sawing job been cutting four the past 5 weekends. I f you have any questions pm me.

f350rd


carriage lift


carriage drive




log turners installed


controls for drive and carriage lift


main control panel

EZ boardwalk 40 Modified, New Holland lx 865, cat e70b excavator, welding/machine shop, 1999 f350, 2011 f350,72" granberg chainsaw slabbing mill,
48" chainsaw mill

Skipper11A

Quote from: jpschersch on March 29, 2018, 01:20:43 PMAny other recommendations on what are necessities if going with the EZBWJr?  I'm thinking Mill, Trailer package, 10 pk of blades (or should I go with another brand? I've read a couple threads where people go with an off brand that is cheaper but basically the same blade?), Extension (possibility, but maybe not needed), and log turner.  Also, 60" logrite I think I've read is a must...and probably a shorter one too?
I like your list.  I would get an extension so you can cut ceiling joists for your wife's new house.  About the blades....I don't know where you live or what kind of trees you have.  EZ Boardwalk carries Timberwolf blades which only come with a 10° blade angle which is fine for softer woods but will produce nothing  but wavy boards in very hard and very wide logs.  Every blade manufacturer says their 10° blade is a "General Purpose" blade but don't fall for that crap.  I have resharpened all my blades to 4° and am able to cut flat boards in all types of trees.  I resharpen my blades with EZ Boardwalk's sharpener and that thing really saved the day.  You might consider adding the sharpener to your shopping list.

f350rd, nice mods  on your sawmill.  You've got some serious fabrication skills.

jpschersch

Thanks for the response Skipper!  If not the EZ Timberwolf blades, which do you recommend? I agree on the extension, I think it is a must.  Not sure if you saw the question, was wondering what winch you were talking about (or were you just talking about any ol' winch?). Does the EZ BW come with a winch?  Thanks!

Skipper11A

Quote from: jpschersch on April 02, 2018, 08:54:37 AMThanks for the response Skipper!  If not the EZ Timberwolf blades, which do you recommend? I agree on the extension, I think it is a must.  Not sure if you saw the question, was wondering what winch you were talking about (or were you just talking about any ol' winch?). Does the EZ BW come with a winch?  Thanks!
Let me clarify, Timberwolf blades are great blades!  But if you're going to be milling very hard woods (Oaks, Pecan, Hickory, Mesquite) or very wide logs (24"+) You should buy blades with a 4° angle which will produce flat cuts.  I don't have another blade manufacturer to recommend because I don't think it really matters, I assume they are all making great blades, Just make sure it fits your sawmill and has the appropriate blade angle for your species/size of wood. One more thought on blades, I would NOT buy the high dollar carbide or stellite blades, instead, I would buy the lowest grade (cheapest) and a resharpener with a diamond wheel, and sharpen them yourself. I took a chance on a sharpener with diamond wheel and it really saved the day for me when I had to figure out how to produce flat cuts in extremely hard woods with 10° blades (The answer is that I was able to resharpen my blades to a 6° then to a 4°angle).  With a manual mill, I can feel instantly when the blades begin to lose their sharpness.  I usually keep that same blade on my mill and use it to square the next log until all the bark is off, and then resharpen the blade before I start making the important cuts.

You need to tell us where you live and what species of trees you will be milling so that we can provide much better advice on your sawmill and blades.

About the winch....I would not buy a manual mill without the winch. The winch does the same job as a hydraulic loader, and a hydraulic log turner, only without the hydraulic part.  I'll take some pictures of my winch and post them in an separate post.

jpschersch

Sorry, I thought I had said before. I'm in Indiana. I have a lot of Ash, will probably be cutting some Poplar, Walnut, etc.  Indiana species.  

Thanks for the note on the re-sharpener and winch. Looking forward to your pics!

Thanks again,
Joe

justallan1

When I bought my EZ Jr. I got 4 of the Timberwolf blades and they work just fine. Problem for me was they are $25 a piece. I buy packs of blades from Kasco that I think are about $15 a piece and do just as well.
Most definitely figure out what blades are right for what you are sawing!!!! Not thinking about it, I put an apple log on the mill using a 10 degree blade and between using the wrong blade and the blade already sitting at an angle, it sucked that blade into that log so fast that the blade took a dive, BADLY!
When sawing with the correct blade it can be done with a couple fingers and I can definitely feel when it's time to put on a fresh blade.
I believe what they are calling a log turner can also be used to parbuckle (load) logs onto the mill.
I think the only time I've pulled my mill was with my 4-wheeler, so I shouldn't say a thing about the trailer package, but with the 4-wheeler I thought it felt "tippy" as all get out. My advice is to ask a few of the EZ Jr. owners their opinion and go from there. In my opinion you have to haul the lumber that you saw with something right, that's $400 towards a trailer. :) ;D
As for needing parts, everything can be locally sourced. I talked with Stanton at EZ Boardwalk about getting an extra set of blade guides and he says to go to the local parts house, buy the bearings and press them in myself. I mention the guide bearing because it's a small bearing going really darned fast. If I had any smarts I would already have extras on hand.
Hope this helps some.

Skipper11A

Here is the EZ Boardwalk 40 winch in the upright position

 

Notice the J hook at the end of the wire cable.  
To load a log from the ground:  Cable goes OVER the top of the log, back UNDER the log, J hook comes back to the mill and is hooked onto the mill, winch then ROLLS log up ramps and onto the mill.
To turn a log that is already on the mill:  Cable goes OVER the log, back UNDER the log, J hook BITES into the top of the log (You just created a flat surface on the top of the log with your first couple of cuts), winch then turns log AGAINST the two square tubes that are in the upright position in the picture.



These two square tubes are only used for loading logs (so they don't roll off!) and for turning logs (to turn against).  That's all they're for, when you're ready to saw they swing down out of the way.  For sawing, the dogs and clamps swing up TOGETHER (they're on the same shaft) to whatever height you need to clamp the log.  Also, in this pic, notice the ladder type features welded on the side of every bunk.  Those are for prying against with your cant hook so you can slide the big logs where you need them.

But this post is about the winch!

 
This pic shows how the winch is locked over the rail in its upright position.  Also notice the square tubing used for turning the logs against are in the down position here.

 
Here the winch is in the down position.  It should be on the ground but I have the tires mounted so I end up walking around the winch or removing the winch completely which is really easy.

This winch works really well and I use it every time to turn the logs that are too big to turn with a cant hook, because the turning is way more controlled than using my tractor to turn them.  If you buy a sawmill without a winch, you are going to have logs that are too big to turn and you will end up just flat sawing the whole thing. Then you get to reload all of your slabs onto the mill and try to edge them squarely.  But with the winch, you can turn the big ones into square cants, decide the best ways to saw each log, and relieve stress (stress in the log).

To summarize:  The winch gives you the capabilities of a hydraulic log loader and hydraulic log turner, but without the hydraulics! The ability to turn logs on the mill allows you to use advanced techniques that are normally out of reach for manual mills.

f350rd

I have replaced my EZ hand crank winch with a wireless remote winch as part of my mill mods. My EZ 40 stays on the axle I install leveling jacks. I also have loading ramps when I use the loading winch. As for blades I use timberwolf blades 10 degree I don't really have any problems cutting whatever I put on the mill. I don't push my mill I have carriage drive on mine.
EZ boardwalk 40 Modified, New Holland lx 865, cat e70b excavator, welding/machine shop, 1999 f350, 2011 f350,72" granberg chainsaw slabbing mill,
48" chainsaw mill

FLGator

Quote from: f350rd on April 02, 2018, 10:18:58 PM
I have replaced my EZ hand crank winch with a wireless remote winch as part of my mill mods. My EZ 40 stays on the axle I install leveling jacks. I also have loading ramps when I use the loading winch. As for blades I use timberwolf blades 10 degree I don't really have any problems cutting whatever I put on the mill. I don't push my mill I have carriage drive on mine.
Sorry to resurrect this old thread, but some one my questions are brought up here. 

How difficult is it to install jacks to be able to level this mill without removing the axle/wheels? Do you use the kind that just U-bolt onto the frame, or did you weld them on? I'm interested in using an EZ40 as a primarily portable mill, so being able to leave the wheels on would be a time saver. 
Did you fabricate log loading ramps? I don't see those for sale on EZ's website, but the concept seems simple enough to be able to make some myself. Thanks for all the great info, everyone. 

farmfromkansas

Gator, do you already have a EZ 40?  Like some of the things about the 40, including the 40" log capacity, and the angled saw head, which seems to make the saw pull into the log.  Let us know what is happening with your mill.
Most everything I enjoy doing turns out to be work

Gere Flewelling

f350rd,  This is an older post, but I was noticing the pictures of the EZ Boardwalk 40 mill you posted and saw you have a chain log turner on that mill.  I have never seen one on that type of mill and am wondering if it is something you built or is it an option that Boardwalk offers.  It looks very professionally build if it is homemade.  It would be great to hear about how it is working for you after a couple of years now.  Thankyou for posting those pictures and sorry it took me so long to notice them.  I am always looking for ideas for making devices for my mill that might make it work a little better.  That looks like a good one.
GF
Old 🚒 Fireman and Snow Cat Repairman (retired)
Matthew 6:3-4

TroyC

I put jacks on my EZ 40, very easy. I used 2x4 steel tubing for 3 crosspieces. Welded angle on the crosspieces and bolted them inside the frame rails. Weld jacks to ends of 2x4 steel. Be sure to use jacks with side handles, not top wind handles. Very sturdy, sets up quickly and do not have to remove trailer. Be careful how high you place the jacks so the blade guards will clear the top of the jacks. Wider you place the jacks the more stability you gain. I used swing-up jacks for quick breakdown and setup.




 
 

Nebraska

Troy. I like the design of the jacks maybe enough to ponder my choice of a fixed position mill.

TroyC

Nebraska- granted you need to load with a loader, but it puts the log at a comfortable height for unloading and working with the log. I find the benefits of leaving wheels on far outweigh putting it on the ground.

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