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Fair price on a Jonsered 2050?

Started by John Mc, June 06, 2021, 10:25:34 PM

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John Mc

A friend is selling her Jonsered 2050. She asked me what I thought a fair price was for it. I haven't a clue.

It was stored empty, so I put some gas mix in and some bar oil and it fired up after about 6 pulls. Oiler is working fine. It worked about as well as you'd expect for a 50cc saw of that era. I made a cut in some 10" red oak and it ran well

Any suggestions on a fair asking price? I haven't a clue.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

mike_belben

200-ish give or take.  less for hammered and more for immaculate.  in my opinion.  well,,, in BC money.  Before Covid. i dunno what looney tunes would pay now.
Praise The Lord

Spike60

I'd say $150-$200. One consideration is always the bar and chain. Can you get some use out of what's on the saw, or do you need to replace one or both of them?

Decent family of saws, often overlooked. Pretty reliable. Very smooth for the era as it was one of the first all spring mount saws.
Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

John Mc

Thanks, Mike & Spike

I did do the "poor man's compression test": Held the starter cord and let go of the powerhead. It slowly dropped through the first compression, then stopped at the next one. If I waited long enough, it would eventually slowly ease through the second compression cycle, then stop for good. This was before I started it up, and the saw had sat without running for more than a year. I did not think to try again after running the saw a bit. It did sound good, and seemed to have typical 50cc power & torque.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Real1shepherd

I've seen saws pass "the poor man's compression test" and still have piston scoring. It's more about how they run at peak and idle......and if anything changes after 15 minutes of hard use etc.

However, from your description it sounds like a sound saw. If you wanna get top dollar from a buyer with cash, let him take the muffler off if he asks.

Kevin

John Mc

I've seen where some saws have a tendency to vibrate their muffler bolts loose. There is no sign of that on this saw. If the muffler is removed should I use some sort of Loctite on the bolts when replacing them, or will the heat just kill that stuff anyway?

Is the torque when re-tightening the muffler bolts important, or just snug it up firmly and leave it at that?
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

mike_belben

those plastic oil tanks melt if the muffler gets a gap.  if youre buyer takes it let them decide.. maybe just mention not to let the bolts loosen.  i loctite them good n snug
Praise The Lord

Real1shepherd

Quote from: John Mc on June 07, 2021, 10:36:00 AM
I've seen where some saws have a tendency to vibrate their muffler bolts loose. There is no sign of that on this saw. If the muffler is removed should I use some sort of Loctite on the bolts when replacing them, or will the heat just kill that stuff anyway?

Is the torque when re-tightening the muffler bolts important, or just snug it up firmly and leave it at that?
I solved this problem a couple of yrs ago with Loctite 2620. Takes up to 650F and up to 3/4" fasteners at that temp. I had a lawnmower I put a steel thread insert in and whenever I took the spark plug out, the insert would come out too. And that's with regular red Loctite....the head temp would just liquefy it.

There should be a torque spec on the muffler bolts, but probably in in/lbs instead of ft/lbs. I go by the size of the bolt and experience. There are charts on the Web for fasteners by size.

Kevin

Spike60

2050 is a completely different saw than a 2150.  The 2050 doesn't use muffler bolts that screw into the cylinder. They use a stud with a nut on the end like a 51/55 or 395 does. No need for worry there John. The only part shared between the 2050 and 2150 is the spark plug.  :)
Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

mike_belben

Hmm.. Maybe ive never had a 20xx series then.  I guess theyve all been 21xx or 350s.
Praise The Lord

John Mc

Thanks, Spike. I had not even looks at the bolts yet.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Spike60

You might have seen their orange cousins though Mike. The Jonny 2041/2045/2050 sompare to the Husky 40/45/49 all based on the Partner 400. Lotta the red ones sold in areas where Jonsered was strong cause they had that segment all to themselves in the Jonsered catelog. With Husky, they had to share the stage with the far more popular 50/51/55 chassis.

Different, cheaper, and garbage in any color :),  were the Poulan based 36/41 and 2036/2040.
Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

old guy

Hey, I resemble that, my old 41 I bought new back in 93 is still goin! :laugh:

Spike60

There are some happy owners here and there on those saws, so you are in a select group there. :) 

Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

David B

I am quite fond of my 2050s. Great for homeowner saws.  First saw I owned. 
Machine and welding shop day job, trees after work.

mike_belben

Ive got a 2152 or 55 that my buddy bought new, then it was my climbing saw, then i sold it to another buddy who eventually had it run lean and sieze. He gave it back, i ported a chinese jug and put it back together years ago.  Im pretty sure i got it to pass a vacuum, pressure and submerged bubble test as that was my MO back then before i moved but i cant find all that test gear i made.   

Anyway i have tried about 5 carbs on it and one that i put a brand new kit in.  No change, itll run for a second and quit.  This is over a long period of backburner so my memory isnt great but the kit was this spring or summer.  

Im pretty sure i then pulled and tossed the fuel line and tried to replace it from regular loop stock of line but it required some hydroformed segment to go through the tank hole without leaking. Anyone got a lead on where i can get a brand new oem non chicom one of those? @Spike60  pretty please.

Ive got a new rubber chicom intake boot that takes a regular old hoseclamp like i have always wish they made in the first place instead of that plastic snap clamp.  


Ive really wanted a 50cc saw back together for a long time, just too big a gap between a tophandle and a 372.
Praise The Lord

Spike60

Mike., my first guess on that 2152 would be the short impulse line that goes from the partition wall to the carb flange. The fuel line you want is 591 375 20. It's long enough to snip off a small piece to serve as that impulse line. If you get it up and running, I'd check to see if it has a CAT muffler and ditch that for sure. 
Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

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