The Forestry Forum is sponsored in part by:

iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Forestry Forum
Sponsored by:

TimberKing Sawmills

Toll Free 1-800-582-0470

LogRite Tools

Norwood Industries Inc.

Your source for Portable Sawmills, Edgers, Resaws, Sharpeners, Setters, Bandsaw Blades and Sawmill Parts

EZ Boardwalk Sawmills. More Saw For Less Money!

Woodland Sawmills

Peterson Swingmills

 KASCO SharpTech WoodMaxx Blades


Sawmill Exchange

Michigan Firewood, your BRUTE FORCE Authorized Dealer

Baker Products


iDRY Wood Lumber Vacuum Drying for everyon

Nyle Kiln Dry Systems

Chainsawr, The Worlds Largest Inventory of Chainsaw Parts

Smith Sawmill Service

Author Topic: 14" rough sawn pine flooring  (Read 4649 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline shinnlinger

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 2076
  • Location: Canaan NH
    • Share Post
Re: 14" rough sawn pine flooring
« Reply #20 on: January 03, 2016, 07:40:26 AM »
This is the updated thread I mentioned before...,87730.0.html
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

Offline kantuckid

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 2910
  • Age: 79
  • Location: Eastern KY
  • Gender: Male
    • Share Post
Re: 14" rough sawn pine flooring
« Reply #21 on: January 03, 2016, 09:02:37 AM »
I did a couple of porch floors in Red Cedar heartwood using 1x6 boards. I planed the bad side to equalize thickness, jointed one edge, table sawed the other and lightly orbital sanded the good face with 180 grit while also beveling the edges ~ 3/16" with the sander. I used SS screws and some clamping to apply it with an oil finish. The band sawed but with light sanding surface goes well with my log house for a usefully smooth finish yet rustic enough.
Inside my home I have wide oak that was nailed through a countersunk hole and plugged with walnut-now days I'd certainly use either plugged screws or Tremont handcut nails-if a pine floor. Oak they would split unless pilot drilled.
I used Waterlox brand of varnish on my most recent wide board oak floor in a timber frame room addition. that floor is T&G. That varnish is the best varnish I've ever used-period! Several choices in their lineup and can be found sold by some hardware chains at a discounted price if you buy a case of 4.
I'm planning another small cabin for guest/hunters use and may go with poplar. In my area a mill has been selling poplar for flooring, ceilings,walls for a few years now in 1x6 T&G. If you go wider then gaps will happen even in KD. I'll do my own wood and air dried in my cabin and probably go wider.
In my home I have all open ceilings which are T&G 8/4 pine. I paid a mill to run the old part of the house from air dried WP but the new room has my own version run on my router table. i found a builder that liked western WP and bought part of a bundle from him so KD. SPF also looks decent to and you can just buy from a regular lumber building source in KD. I drew up my own set of cutters after not finding what i wanted already to use and saved much money by milling my own T&G wood. In a rustic cabin it could be the finish floor too. Might lightly break the top edges for splinter free floor.
The Op's floor looks nice but stains don't appeal to me much, just a personal wood thing. I'd wash with sodium percarbonate or similar non toxic wash, then do the drying thing. With eastern WP your likely to have some blue stains either way though. Mills dip their bundles to avoid staining.
Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

Share via delicious Share via digg Share via facebook Share via linkedin Share via pinterest Share via reddit Share via stumble Share via tumblr Share via twitter


Powered by EzPortal