Dual felling dogs

[Tacotodd]

Luckily I'm doing this at home and I have zero employees. No worries about OSHA.

[John Mc]

If the machine  was on a job site and the owner (sole  proprietor) was the only one to be operating it then OSHA has no jurisdiction but if an employee was operating it then there would be an issue. (retired OR Osha)

Which is what I meant by "... if you tried to use it on a job", but I guess I was not very clear there.

[Skeans1]

I have never  seen dual spikes on a smaller saw such as yours. Years ago the big Stihls and Huskys equipped with long bars had them to stabilize the saw when felling or bucking large trees. I would get requests for them from consumers, they wanted a fulcrum to compensate for a dull or incorrectly filed chain but that is not what they are for.

 These are second growth dawgs on a 562.

[Skeans1]

I'm not using it in place of a sharp chain, rather a way to hold a short piece of wood instead of cutting my foot. At the same time, I do appreciate everyones comments.

 This is the kind of timber where you need the longer dawgs like a 395 comes with stock, this is second growth Douglas Fir with over 1.5" thick bark. There's felling dawgs and bucking spikes two different things, can dawgs buck yes on oversized timber they're needed for line up.

[Real1shepherd]

Yes, felling dawgs are different from bucking spikes. But it only really makes a difference if you're working a show where you do one or the other all day.

I always worked shows where I was require to fell & buck everything, so the factory set up on the Husky 2100/2101 became my de-facto set up. Not practical to have one saw set up with felling dawgs and another with bucking spikes. 

Kevin

[Tacotodd]

Well folks, I have got some additional dogs for the saw and I installed them. It's not a PERFECTLY done job. The bar mount studs need about 1/4" more length to be properly secured (to my satisfaction) and to keep from stripping the threads on both studs and nuts.

I had to do a little FIELD engineering to make them fit, but I cut my driving teeth on an IH pickup, so I was used to doing that sort of stuff.

Now I just need to look at my IPL and see how the studs mount in/on the saw. At first glance, they appear to mount like a Husky, and if they are, then hopefully Husqvarna studs are longer at least as much as I need for comfort.

It's just to DanG hot to mess with at this moment! It's just not any where near a pressing moment. 

Thanks guys for the input and I'll keep everyone informed of the outcome. If I ever get bored enough then I'll take the time to figure out my phone camera and how to post pictures of the outcome of this unique situation. 

I hope that everyone had a great Independence Day!

[Larry]

My Husky 272XP came with dual dogs and the first 15 years of its life they never left the shop.  My muffler can attest to that fact.  A 24" bar is perfect on the saw but I never wanted to give away 2" of length to the dogs.

I put them on a few years ago to help with felling.  Might have something to do with too many birthdays.

Another thought.  I'm a woodturner and cut little bowl blanks all the time.  The usual procedure is to split a 12" +/- log lengthwise on the pith.  Second operation is to cut the four corners off to help balance the piece on the lathe.  Yes, dogs can help with the cut especially the rip, but its not efficient.  What is efficient is a bucking stand that helps hold the log.  Many different styles and I think they all work.  Cheap to make.

[smoked]

So I have a question here.  I have a 661 I use almost exclusively for milling and a guy wants me to section a big stump cookie in half.  It is beyond the reach of my 36" bar, so am wondering if it is worth the effort of reinstalling the felling/bucking spikes for this one job??  I hate burying the nose and am curious if the spikes offer protection form kicking if the nose is buried?  Plus I lose 2" and that matters :D

[Ianab]

I like the spikes when I'm working on big stuff like that with the nose buried. I try and set the spikes in place, then swivel the saw around them. In theory that should have the tip of the bar only every cutting on it's lower part, so little risk of a kickback. When you have cut far enough from that swivel point, let the saw idle, pull it back slightly, angle it back again and reset the spikes. Repeat from the new position. Any time the saw is on power, it's swivelling from the spikes and so it's well controlled. 

[JJ]

o to Youtube and search Chainsaw buddy by a guy called Taras Kul It seems to work great on small/medium saw . Shows cutting small , loose , logs lying on the ground about 3/4 of the way through video . This thing holds them well

YouTube

Has anyone watched Taras' video?
It cracked me up with his accent, and also he has the chain on his saw backwards in the beginning :D

Illustration below..



 

[Real1shepherd]

o to Youtube and search Chainsaw buddy by a guy called Taras Kul It seems to work great on small/medium saw . Shows cutting small , loose , logs lying on the ground about 3/4 of the way through video . This thing holds them well

YouTube

Has anyone watched Taras' video?
It cracked me up with his accent, and also he has the chain on his saw backwards in the beginning :D

Illustration below..

OK.....what does the gadget in the video have anything to do with the illustrations below it??
Kevin

[JJ]

chain on backwards ;D

[Air Lad]

Good spotting JJ
Backwards chains don't cut so well
None the less the clumsy looking thing seemed to have some merrit
Must have fixed it before the camera shoot
Don't worry mate
I sharnt be trying it
Just putting it out there as a possible solution to a problem