084 rebuild

421Altered · June 26, 2020, 10:41:55 PM

I'm rebuilding a stihl 084 saw. I'm reusing the oil pickup hose that was on the saw before I got it, it's in good condition. But, when I look into the oil tank, the strainer isn't at the bottom of the tank. When the saw is horizontal, as in sitting on my workbench, the strainer is about halfway in between the full and empty oil level if it had oil in it. This doesn't seem right to me, however, the oil hose has an "ear" molded into it, so, it only goes into the case one way. I got a new one from stihl, but, it's even worse. The angle is slightly different, but, enough that the pickup strainer is on the ceiling of the oil tank! Can anyone offer some insight into this?

JoshNZ · June 27, 2020, 05:15:02 AM

I just got done rebuilding an 038 and ordered an oil pickup clunk line for exactly the same reason when i noticed it wasn't touching tank base. But my replacement was a bit softer and it is now sitting on the bottom of the tank.

In all fairness I fill both tanks each time I fuel and I've never used more than half of the oil tank so even if it were floating mid tank I don't think it's an issue.

Not sure what you mean by only goes into the case one way, mine pressed onto a nipple inside the oil tank which I had full access too when I had the case halves apart, I rotated it until its relaxed curve had it settled on the bottom of the tank.

421Altered · June 27, 2020, 01:18:33 PM

The oil pickup hose is a molded one from Stihl. Instead of pressing into a nipple inside the tank, the hose and strainer are inserted from outside the case. The case is machined to the exact same shape as the end of the hose that has the "ear". The oil pump has a fitting that is tapered and this taper fits inside the hose end that has the "ear". And the oil pump mounting screws hold the pump tight to the hose. As a result of the "ear", the hose can not be rotated to make the strainer rest where you want it to.

Banjo picker · June 28, 2020, 10:40:31 AM

How far are you going with the rebuild? Mine has a patch on the oil tank.... not really a problem. I think it has some varnish in the carburetor, as it don't idle like it should. Banjo

421Altered · June 28, 2020, 03:29:44 PM

Banjo, it's a complete rebuild. I split the case and installed all new oem crank bearings, seals, and case gasket. I'm keeping the piston and jug, they are fine, but, putting Meteor rings on it. I also have a NOS, OEM oil pump and control cable to go on it. I have a rebuild kit for the carb, but, hope I don't need it. Also, replacing all rubber parts. At this point, I do not have a bar or clutch cover for it. The saw had low time on it when it got run over before I got it for free.

Banjo picker · June 28, 2020, 03:52:50 PM

Hard to beat free.👍

421Altered · June 28, 2020, 05:09:01 PM

Yep! But, these 084 parts ain't cheap!!

Banjo picker · June 28, 2020, 08:12:38 PM

Try buying a comparable saw, they aint cheap either. Banjo

JoshNZ · June 29, 2020, 02:44:33 AM

You could actually use anything you liked in there, customise it 8). I had a nitro fueled model Heli when I was younger and there was a plethora of clunk line options.

One that stood out was Hayes clunk line, a neoprene tube that was super supple. They are hammered around in every imaginable orientation with no float bowl in carb so need zero bubbles, search "3D RC Heli" to see what I mean.

What really amazed me was the clunk options, you could get these fittings that were like balls of gauze with small gaps or sometimes a sponge material, and by way of capillary action they would actually mop up the last few mls of fuel out of the bottom of the tank with no air bubbles in it, even though at this point maybe 80% of the clunk body would be in open air above the fuel line.

Anyway I digress... I reckon it's fine but you could replace it with anything I'm sure. Chain lube isn't super critical in terms of short gaps

421Altered · July 01, 2020, 09:58:37 AM

Banjo, That's what I keep telling myself!!

Josh, Thanks for the tip, and also thanks for reminding me that the chain lube isn't super critical in terms of short gaps of time. Anyway, if Stihl designs it and sells a hose for a specific application, I'm sure they know a lot, and I mean a lot, more than I do!!

421Altered · July 02, 2020, 09:33:54 AM

Ok guys, have another problem,

! The plastic 90 degree elbows on the carb, one for the impulse line, the other for the fuel supply line, are splitting. My local Stihl dealer says they are nla. Where can I find replacements for these elbows?

JoshNZ · July 02, 2020, 04:21:41 PM

Got photos and diameters?

421Altered · July 02, 2020, 10:38:35 PM

josh, I don't know how to post pics on this or any site. I'm not good with computers and electronics. I'm a hammer and nails, hand wrench's and lever's type of guy!

JoshNZ · July 03, 2020, 04:34:23 AM

Sent you a PM with a bit of a how to.

Looking at your parts list, the impulse nipple looks to be a part of the end cover part no. 1124 121 0802. And the fuel inlet nipple is part of the main body. Neither are designated parts which is really bad luck, especially if they're plastic =/. Sure it's not alloy?

You might need to go get chummy with someone who owns a lathe hah. If theres no chance they're repairable in place, grab one with a pair of vise grips and turn/pull see how it interfaces.

421Altered · July 07, 2020, 10:47:29 PM

Josh, I think that I have the fuel nipples problem solved. I put them in place, after roughing up the surface of each one with a file, and applied 5 minute epoxy to the outside and into the tiny cracks on the nipple body. Then, I have some small hose clamps made out of some type of plastic that has a ratcheting type locking mechanism, I put those tightly on each one to squeeze the nipple body together. Seems to work ok because I fired it up today for the first time since rebuilding it. However, I have a different issue now. The fuel is coming out of the fuel vent tube under pressure, crazy I know, I used a new umbrella valve when rebuilding it. So, what is going on?

JoshNZ · July 08, 2020, 05:34:30 PM

I think Ive had that happening with my rebuilt 038 too. At full throttle or goosing it I think it's ending up with fuel around the carb area. Will wait for others to chime in

Tacotodd · July 09, 2020, 12:25:56 AM

Does saw running saw leak while horizontal? I don't remember what the cause was, only it being a symptom.

Real1shepherd · July 09, 2020, 10:03:37 AM

I don't know about carbs other than Tilly's, but their bigger carbs had a plastic inlet elbow that while it pivoted, it cracked over time and leaked copiously.

With some effort the stud the elbow was attached to pulls out completely and there are fixed metal elbows you can drive back in....problem solved.

Of course this won't work if the elbows are somehow cast into the metal.

Kevin

421Altered · July 09, 2020, 10:51:53 AM

Thanks to everyone for their help. It appears that we have the fuel pushing out of vent solved. We adjusted the diaphram height a little and it has stopped. However, the carb is super sensitive to any changes, so we need a rebuild kit for a Tilly HT2A 547. Does anyone know where we might be able to order one?