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MS 290 Question

Started by msta999, March 11, 2014, 10:40:01 PM

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msta999

Hi all.
I picked up a MS 290 a couple weeks ago. I went to use it today and noticed the cutting edges on the chain were rough, so I sharpened them, but they felt rough as I ran the file across them. also the chain looked like it had just a little slack in it, then I took it out and cut a log in half, it was full of knots and it was one I couldn't split. It cut slow and the blade got hot. I took it in the garage to look it over and noticed the chain was tight. The bottom of the bar has more play in the groove than the top of the bar. I'm guessing I need a new bar and chain?? Will a dull chain cause the blade to get hot or do I need to look at something else? It looks (to me) like the chain has been sharpened a lot. I'm going to be taking it to my property, about 4 hrs from town, so I want to make sure I have it working good. What else should I be looking at on this saw? What bar and chains will last the longest/do you recommend?

Thanks.

ZeroJunk

Make sure the oiler is working.

Ianab

Quote from: ZeroJunk on March 11, 2014, 10:52:32 PM
Make sure the oiler is working.

First thing to check. The chain should be slightly "oily" and a small amount of oil should fling off the end if you point it at a stump and rev it up for a few seconds.  If no oil, check for a blocked oil hole in the bar (easy fix with a piece of wire to dig the crud out), or a broken oil pump in the saw.

Yes a dull or wrongly sharpened chain wont cut properly, and will get hot. As long as there is some top plate left on the cutters it should be able to be resharpened. You can basically keep filing away until there is not enough cutter left to cut with. If it's been sharpened wrong, or used to cut rocks, it can take a bit of filing to get it right. Also check the rakers in front of the cutters. If the cutters have worn down, and the rakers are still high, the chain cuts slow. You file the rakers down with a flat file and use a gauge to get them about 20 thou below the cutter.

QuoteThe bottom of the bar has more play in the groove than the top of the bar.
Sounds like that's worn then. If the bar lets the chain flop side to side it also wont cut well. Flip the bar over and use the "top" side, and wear out the other 1/2 of the bar  ;)

Now it may be that you do need a new bar and chain, but check those things first and see what happens. What you have may only be 1/2 worn out, and still cut weill with some TLC.

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

SLawyer Dave

Here I was all geared up to try to help out.  I love my MS290 and thought, "Boy, this will be a great thread to jump into".  Then I read Ian's post.  Not only was it complete, well organized and easy to understand.....he really left nothing else of import to say.  So I figured I would at least say, WELL DONE IAN.   8)

msta999

Thanks for the info.
After I cut through the log, there was quite a bit of oil on top of the sprocket cover, so I think the oiler is working. It was so hot it was smoking pretty good. Could the smoke be from the oilier working good and the chain and bar getting too hot?

I'll try flopping the bar and work on the chain some more. The rakers are down, according to my chain gauge.

When sharpening the chain, it almost sounds like fingers on a chock board, so someone must have done something wrong. I'm holding my gauge at 30 degs and level when sharpening it.

Ianab

Oil shouldn't be on the cover, it should be on the chain. Have a good look at the oil hole in the bar. It needs to be clear so the oil can run into the bottom of the groove, then get carried around the chain. It can get plugged up with fine sawdust.

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

JohnG28

So can the bar groove. Run a thin screwdriver or knife or something of the like down the bar groove and make sure it's clean.
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

msta999

I took the bar off and the oil hole was plugged. I flipped the bar and went over the chain again, I did clean the groove out, it was dirty too. It still doesn't cut like I think it should, my little 12 echo seems to cut faster. I'm going to get a different chain and see how that does.

One thing, the chain seems to tighten up when hot and loosen with it cools down. Is this normal? The bar isn't getting as hot as it did before.

The chain guides are getting oil, I pulled the chain off to check it. It is not flinging oil off the chain like my smaller saw does.

msta999

Is there any difference in chains?

JohnG28

If anything a chain may loosen up when hot then tighten up some when it cools. From what you describe only thing I can think of is maybe the bar nuts aren't tight and the bar is loose, the chain will get tighter or looser if you move the bar up and down?? Just a WAG. ???
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

Ianab

OK, at least we are making some progress  ;)

When you tighten the bar nuts, lift the end of the bar up as you tighten them. Otherwise it tends to creep up while you are cutting, and that messes with the chain tension as John mentions.

That series of saw has a pretty "frugal" oiler. They wont throw a spray of oil off the tip like other saws did. If you now have oil on the drive links the oiler is probably OK.

If may be the chain has been overheated (lack of oil) and that's why you are having trouble sharpening it? The heat messes with the temper of the steel. Getting a spare chain is a good idea anyway, even if you can recover the old one. Eventually you are going to hit something, and it's good to have a spare ready to go if the other chain is going to need a lot of work.

Yes there are different chains. Low kickback chains are safer, more aggressive profiles cut faster, semi-chisel holds it's edge longer in dirty wood etc. Stihl chain seems to be harder steel, stays sharp longer, but it's harder to sharpen etc.

But any chain you buy will cut "OK", as long as everything else is correct.

Because it's been running "dry", have a good look at the bar again, and check that for wear. We know one side is badly worn, but check the "good' edge as well. The 2 rails on each side of the groove must be even. Use a square or balance the bar on a bench. If it keep falling over, the bar is worn. If can be "dressed" (filed flat) if it's not too far gone.

Also check the sprocket for wear. If that's worn out, it will beat up your new chain too.

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

msta999

Thanks for the info. One thing I noticed while sharpening the chain, is I have to hold the chain still or it flopps from side to side....even before I flipped the bar, so I'm guessing both sides are worn out. So a bar and a couple chains should work. I can't find either at Home Depot or Lowe's. Here is what I found on Ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281284432508?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648
almost twice the cost of one from Oregon....Forester seemed to have the best price. Which bar will last the longest? or if you just keep the oiler working, they will all work fine?

I will check the drive sprocket when I take the bar off.

21incher

I have had luck buying bars and chains from Baileys that is a sponsor of this forum. I have the MS290 and recently switched over to their 18 inch narrow kerf bar and chain combos. The saw seems to run quite a bit cooler and doesn't bog down while cutting firewood at the same speed as the standard chain as long as you keep it out of the dirt. They also have Oregon. If you have a lot of money to spend go to a local Stihl dealer and they will have what you need. I think the stihl chains stay sharp longer if you cut dirty wood.
Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

kenskip1

Sort of makes me wonder if he has .050 or .58 gauge on a .63 bar? Ken
Stihl The One
Stihl Going Strong
Stihl Looking For The Fountain of Middle Age

msta999

I went down to Sthil and bought a bar and chain, came to 86 bucks, but figured I'd start off with OEM, so I can see if there is a difference between brands later on.

I was using the 7/32 file to sharpen the old chain, seem to fit better.
The new chain sets in the new bar way tighter than the old one and it cuts a lot better too. I thought it would have more power that it does, but then I was cutting a stump with a bunch of knots it it, so that my be part of it.

I don't know what this means: " .050 or .58 gauge on a .63 bar?" are you talking about the chain guides?

Ianab

He means that maybe the bar and chain that where on the saw where mis-matched, a different gauge. So you have 50 thou chain in 63 thou bar groove. Loose and floppy.

Or, the saw has been run for too long without oil, and the bar and chain are too badly worn.

Either way, new bar and chain should have you back in business. And you know what to look for to stop it happening again.

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

msta999

Thanks everyone, you all helped me understand what to look for in the future.

God Bless!

21incher

Quote from: msta999 on March 14, 2014, 09:14:02 PM
I thought it would have more power that it does, but then I was cutting a stump with a bunch of knots it it, so that my be part of it.
That is why I switched to the narrow kerf bar and chain, and it made a big difference. Another thing you want to do with that saw is only run fresh high octane fuel or it will loose power.
Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

Freedom6178

I run the High octane in my MS290 because it doesn't have that ethanol junk in it.. Great saw btw..
------Freedom6178------


Prepare for the unknown by studying how others in the past have coped with the unforeseeable and the unpredictable.
George S. Patton


'12 Mustang, '03 F-250 SD 4x4, Stihl Farm Boss 18"bar, '09 Arctic Cat 550 TRV EFI

msta999

Time for a new chain, so I thought I would revisit this forum, turns out it was some how going to my spam folder!

sawguy21

Welcome back after 6 years 8)
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Greenerpastures

Quote from: sawguy21 on June 02, 2020, 12:45:22 PM
Welcome back after 6 years 8)
Wish my chain lasted 6 years, that must be some kind of a record.

Tacotodd

Well, what did you find out?
Trying harder everyday.

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