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Cooked two MS660s in two days!

Started by OneWithWood, September 03, 2011, 02:52:56 PM

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w8ye

SETTING THE HS NEEDLE

I prefer to have the mixture set to where the engine is just on the two stroke mode in the cut. If the needle limiter gets in my way, I remove it!

Before engaging the saw chain into the wood, the saw will four stroke or make a flutter sound.

Try a few cuts and get the mixture set to where the engine is just on the edge of smoothing out when the chainsaw is fully engaged in cutting. If you slack up on the cutting pressure the least bit, the saw will go back into four stroke. As you apply cutting pressure, the smoothness of two stroking will return.

This extra fuel helps to keep the engine cooler so you do not overheat the saw and gall the piston on the exhaust side.

This needle setting will need to be changed for different types of wood, like the difference in white pine and rock maple or bucking and milling, milling chain or chisel chain. I keep my magic screw driver in my pocket at all times.

First find out where the needle is set? How far from closed is it? Open it up some and run the saw to find out what I'm talking about - Two stroke, Four stroke. Do not confuse the flutter sound of four stroking with the flutter sound of the ignition rpm limiter.  To open the needle, you turn it counter clockwise. The High Speed needle is the one closest to the air filter.   
Stihl FS-55R, HS-80-R-24
Echo PB 2400, SRM 2100 SRM 2400

OneWithWood

Well Stihl came through!  They sent the dealer two piston/cylinder sets to repair the saws.  The dealer rebuilt the saws at no charge.  I picked up one Friday and spent today cutting up firewood to break it in.  
The first thing I checked was the High speed mixture screw - it had been turned all the way out to the stop so I left it there.  The idle was dropped to 12,800rpm.  I mixed up some fuel to about 32:1 for the break in.  I was only able to go through two tanks of fuel today.  I will run another couple of tanks through it before I commence to milling.  For firewood cutting I am running a 25" bar with RMC chain.  The saw sings with this combo.  For milling I have two setups now.  I need to complete halving the 42" red oak log that I got 3/4 the way halved.  I will then cut the halves into quarters.  For that log I will use a 32" bar with 10° ripping chain.  I also bought an updated Grandberg Mini Mill which has a better system for clamping to the bar that should allow for ripping without struggling to keep the saw near vertical.  For the remaining large oak logs I am planning to use an Alaska mill setup with a 38" bar and ripping chain to slab the logs down to 22" x 28" cants running the saw horizontally and not buried in the log.  The remaining logs have a number of limbs and knots so the end product will be 2"x 8" boards sawn through and through.  The first log is clear and the goal is to quarter saw it.
It will be Tuesday or Wednesday before I can get to the milling.  I will let you all know how it turns out.
Thank-you for the good advice.

I cannot say enough for the way Stihl and the dealer (Martinsville Ace Hardware) have worked with me on this issue.  The dealer also sold me a new Stihl piston/cylinder set for my MS460 at a discount.  I rebuilt the MS460 and put a big bore kit (52mm) on my old MS440 that I toasted a year ago after dropping a tree on it.  The dealer is going to leak test the 440 for me to insure the seals are stil intact.  So if this all works out I will have the new 660, my trusty 441, the 460 and the 440 with a big bore kit.  That should keep me going for a while  8)
One With Wood
LT40HDG25, Woodmizer DH4000 Kiln

Brucer

Quote from: Al_Smith on September 07, 2011, 08:13:53 AM
However if you are ripping ,milling whatever keep in mind that aside from stumping this is about a demanding of a task ever placed on a chainsaw .As such you have to run a rich carb setting .Lean fuel mix will run much hotter than rich .Too lean or even with a normal setting for average usage will not work out well on long rip cuts .

Sorry I'm late on this one. I just got back on line after a week with no FF fix.

You absolutely do need that rich setting on the carb. I wore out a 70 cc Jonsereds powering an Alaskan mill, but it took me 20 years to do it ;D. First thing I did after I got the Alaskan mill was set the high speed jet rich.

Quote
Then too in my opinion for the two cents it's worth seems to me that many have the bright idea they must cut lumber as smooth as if were ran through a table saw with a hollow ground cabinet blade so they use rip chain .Rip chains are slow,they pull saw dust instead of chips .To me they put undo stress on the saw where a standard old chisel will cut smooth enough for the purpose .After all if it is finish lumber it will be planed anyway . ;)

Full comp conventional chain. File it straight across and hold the file level (a chain grinder helps a lot for shaping the chain to start). File it quite a bit deeper than you would for a regular cross-cut chain (tooth angle is about 45 degrees instead of 85 or 90 degrees). Use kerf wedges behind the saw to keep the kerf from closing onto the returning chain. Cut yourself a round of wood to sit on the outboard end of the handle and counterbalance the head (14" dia, 8" thick, with a notch to fit over the handle).

Do all this and feed the saw smoothly and you will see wood that's smoother than you'll get from a bandmill.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

joe_indi

Quote from: OneWithWood on September 11, 2011, 07:05:10 PM
The first thing I checked was the High speed mixture screw - it had been turned all the way out to the stop so I left it there.

When you mention this it looks like the saws are running  WJ-69B carbs with limiter caps. These carbs unlike the WJ-67A (without limiter caps) are lean burners to meet your EPA norms.
They have fixed jets of 0.62 size instead of the more generous 0.64 jets of the WJ-67A.
The limiter caps dont allow a richer setting unless you want to pull out the limiter caps.
The option is to leave the H screw out to its stop to avoid overheating when you are milling.
In addition you could try and replace the fixed jets with the 0.64 (part #1122 121 5604)
This will help reduce the heat.
But if changing the jet is not possible, the next option would be to change the cylinder gasket. In all probability what is fitted now could be the thinner 0.5mm.
The thicker 1.0mm gasket (part #1122 029 2306) should reduce the compression slightly so that the present lean burn jet will not have too much of an adverse effect.

Whether your dealer will agree to all this, I dont know.

Joe

woodzy88

I've had saws do the same in big cuts when under load for to long . Seems to be worse if the logs are dry and produce fine dust.
woodzy88

ladylake

Quote from: OneWithWood on September 11, 2011, 07:05:10 PM
Well Stihl came through!  They sent the dealer two piston/cylinder sets to repair the saws.  The dealer rebuilt the saws at no charge.  I picked up one Friday and spent today cutting up firewood to break it in.  
The first thing I checked was the High speed mixture screw - it had been turned all the way out to the stop so I left it there.  The idle was dropped to 12,800rpm.  I mixed up some fuel to about 32:1 for the break in.  I was only able to go through two tanks of fuel today.  I will run another couple of tanks through it before I commence to milling.  For firewood cutting I am running a 25" bar with RMC chain.  The saw sings with this combo.  For milling I have two setups now.  I need to complete halving the 42" red oak log that I got 3/4 the way halved.  I will then cut the halves into quarters.  For that log I will use a 32" bar with 10° ripping chain.  I also bought an updated Grandberg Mini Mill which has a better system for clamping to the bar that should allow for ripping without struggling to keep the saw near vertical.  For the remaining large oak logs I am planning to use an Alaska mill setup with a 38" bar and ripping chain to slab the logs down to 22" x 28" cants running the saw horizontally and not buried in the log.  The remaining logs have a number of limbs and knots so the end product will be 2"x 8" boards sawn through and through.  The first log is clear and the goal is to quarter saw it.
It will be Tuesday or Wednesday before I can get to the milling.  I will let you all know how it turns out.
Thank-you for the good advice.

I cannot say enough for the way Stihl and the dealer (Martinsville Ace Hardware) have worked with me on this issue.  The dealer also sold me a new Stihl piston/cylinder set for my MS460 at a discount.  I rebuilt the MS460 and put a big bore kit (52mm) on my old MS440 that I toasted a year ago after dropping a tree on it.  The dealer is going to leak test the 440 for me to insure the seals are stil intact.  So if this all works out I will have the new 660, my trusty 441, the 460 and the 440 with a big bore kit.  That should keep me going for a while  8)




  12800 RPM doesn't sound bad but may need to be lower for milling, I'd pull those stops and make sure they are getting enough gas, as w8ye said four stroking as soon as you take some pressure off the saw..    Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Al_Smith

Quote from: Brucer on September 12, 2011, 12:31:50 AM
Sorry I'm late on this one. I just got back on line after a week with no FF fix.

.
Full comp conventional chain. File it straight across and hold the file level (a chain grinder helps a lot for shaping the chain to start). File it quite a bit deeper than you would for a regular cross-cut chain    Do all this and feed the saw smoothly and you will see wood that's smoother than you'll get from a bandmill.

I've tried it that way plus basically turning it into planer chain by cutting the top plate off and just using alternate sides with a top plate filed straight across every third cutter to act as a racker tooth .Oh it cut smooth  allright but slow as a snail .I was using a 125 Mac so there was plenty of power .I've had the best luck just using regular round chisel .

As I've said before in my opinion chainsaw milling is just an option as opposed to a bandsaw .Usefull at times but not the best way to salvage lumber from logs that otherwise would become  firewood .

OneWithWood

Today I put the tach on the saw and got the high rpms to settle around 13500.  I could not replicate the 12800 the dealer set it at.  I ran a couple rich mixes through the saw cutting firewood the past few days but I went back to the 50:1 after having a conversation with the dealer.  He pointed out that the unburned oil has to go somewhere which usually means something is going to clog up.  There was an obvous film of oil around the decomp valve.
End result:  I attached the new mini mill to the bar and proceeded to rip the log.  I kept the saw just below wide open and it cut clean and relatively quickly.  The saw never bogged down or seemed to heat up.  Mission accomplished  8)

Here is what was different from the other two attempts:
Updated mini mill gripped the bar securely and there was no slipping so I put a lot less pressure on the saw in the cut.
The temp today is in the mid sixties with a light rain - much better than 105°

One With Wood
LT40HDG25, Woodmizer DH4000 Kiln

welderskelter

I cooked my 066 just cutting firewood. I found out threw the forum that you need to modify the muffler. Drill a hole in it about 1/2 in, You get about a fourth more power to. Thanks Harold

ladylake

Quote from: OneWithWood on September 14, 2011, 12:58:03 PM
Today I put the tach on the saw and got the high rpms to settle around 13500.  I could not replicate the 12800 the dealer set it at.  I ran a couple rich mixes through the saw cutting firewood the past few days but I went back to the 50:1 after having a conversation with the dealer.  He pointed out that the unburned oil has to go somewhere which usually means something is going to clog up.  There was an obvous film of oil around the decomp valve.
End result:  I attached the new mini mill to the bar and proceeded to rip the log.  I kept the saw just below wide open and it cut clean and relatively quickly.  The saw never bogged down or seemed to heat up.  Mission accomplished  8)

Here is what was different from the other two attempts:
Updated mini mill gripped the bar securely and there was no slipping so I put a lot less pressure on the saw in the cut.
The temp today is in the mid sixties with a light rain - much better than 105°


[/quote

If you cant get less than 13500 RPM you need too pull the limiter caps and get it lower for milling, soon as you push it some the same thing will happen.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

w8ye

Quote from: welderskelter on September 17, 2011, 07:07:10 PM
I cooked my 066 just cutting firewood. I found out threw the forum that you need to modify the muffler. Drill a hole in it about 1/2 in, You get about a fourth more power to. Thanks Harold

If you open up your muffler, there will definitely be a need to open up the mixture screws.

The reduced back pressure in the exhaust will cause the engine to run leaner unless you open the carb up to allow more fuel.

As was mentioned by Joe_indi, you may have to install a larger jet to get the carb rich enough?
Stihl FS-55R, HS-80-R-24
Echo PB 2400, SRM 2100 SRM 2400

Ax- man

Wow, It is threads like this that makes me glad that I am not using our good saws for milling and have turned to using my old 076 for milling . I have fianlly got ahold of TS 760 concrete saw air filter  and have been able to get some good used cylinders and pistons plus rings just in case disaster strikes. I looked all over for these concrete saw parts and found a Sthil dealer right in my own backyard that had a bunch of those concrete saws and was more than happy to get rid of the carcusses.


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