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MS 261 Sprocket Question

Started by Sionnix, May 10, 2019, 10:19:13 AM

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Sionnix

Forgive the likely dumb question, but are sprockets gauge dependent? I know they are pitch specific. I bought a new 261 and am just messing around with different pitch chains and bar lengths until I find something that feel best to me. In doing so I ordered a 7 tooth 3/8" sprocket (as well as a 0.50 oregon bar) to try out some different stuff. 

While I am here, any of you guys with 261s found your sweet spot for bar length/chain etc? Always fun to hear what other folks are running :) 

Cheers!

sawguy21

The only dumb question is the one not asked. Sprockets are not affected by gauge, bars and chains need to match however. If you are running regular 3/8" chain keep it sharp and let it do the work, that saw likes to rev and power drops off if it is forced and allowed to bog. I like a 16" or 18" bar on a 50cc saw, Stihl offers 20" but imho it is a bit much and upsets the balance.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Sionnix

Quote from: sawguy21 on May 10, 2019, 11:45:00 AM
The only dumb question is the one not asked. Sprockets are not affected by gauge, bars and chains need to match however. If you are running regular 3/8" chain keep it sharp and let it do the work, that saw likes to rev and power drops off if it is forced and allowed to bog. I like a 16" or 18" bar on a 50cc saw, Stihl offers 20" but imho it is a bit much and upsets the balance.
Thank you! I agree about the 16-18". The saw came with a 20" .325 pitch bar and it is nice for brush for certain. I have a 20" 3/8 bar that will fit it, and I will try it just for fun with full chisel, full comp, but I am pretty certain that will be too much for it. Thank you for the input about chain gauge and sprockets! That was my inclination but I wanted to be certain. 

I will probably mess around with chain gauges and bar lengths, we will see how it likes 3/8 :) 

olcowhand

Sionnix,
When I bought my MS261CM a couple years ago, I had the sprocket, bar and chain swapped to a 16" Bar and 3/8" chain; I wanted to have sharpening tools common with my MS461.
Some Pros on here questioned the wisdom of doing that, but I'm very happy with the results. With a good sharp chain, that saw flat out cuts (all Hardwood). It's grown into my go to saw unless I need to let the bigger dog eat.....
Steve
Olcowhand's Workshop, LLC

They say the mind is the first to go; I'm glad it's something I don't use!

Ezekiel 36:26-27

HolmenTree

I like to run .325 23RS on my MS261CM -16", but like Steve I run 3/8" 33RS on it too now that my 261 is well broke in.
I used the 261-3/8 here limbing 7 of these larger white spruce this week.
The 066-28" did the heavier work.


 

 
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

HotRail

I tried several different combos on a ported first gen 261c.  .325 16" and 18" stihl E bar, 16" 3/8 stihl ES bar with 7 rim (sprocket), picco lo profile setup with 18" cannon bar i believe or one of those high end bars(sold it).  Anyways, I always came back to a 18" stihl E bar with RS full chisel non safety chain, 7 rim. I now have a 2nd gen 261c that isn't ported. I can honestly say it is excellent in stock form and I will not bother to send it away for porting, it's that good imo.  I use it often and have just stayed with 18" bar and .325 RS chain.  To sum it up here, i would stay with a 16" or 18" bar like others have said..  16 could go .325 or 3/8, but in my opinion 18 would go best with .325.  Didn't much care for the picco and lo profile stuff for the cutting I do.  By the way, I cut hardwoods like oak for firewood with my 261c.  Good luck

Sionnix

I really appreciate the thoughts and advice! I plan on keep around .325 bars/chains as well as 3/8, so having a few to choose from doesn't bother me (gives me an excuse to buy more saws  ;D). I actually tossed a 20" 3/8 Oregon Power Match with full chisel on it and it's been doing ok with our pine here in Wyoming, but I agree with everyone that with 3/8 it is better suited to  shorter bar. I am thinking for my area the sweet spot will be 16" 3/8 or 20" .325. But only time and testing will tell! 

realzed

I've always had a 20" bar with the 23RS .325 chain on my 261CM from new, but at some point intend to try a 3/8 version. 
The place I bought my saw encouraged me to get the 3/8 originally when I first asked if it would pull it well, saying they had sold quite a few and everyone loved that combo especially for softwoods - but I resisted deciding instead to get some miles on it with the .325 before I decide to venture out on new stuff.
I'm presently most of the way through a 4 bunk load of almost dry hard Maple firewood logs anywhere from 6" thru 24" in diameter and the saw only seems to have gotten better as I get more time and more wood past it. 
The .325 goes through those logs very easily and the 20" bar just ensures I don't get a lot more wear and tear on this old back than necessary, bending to get some of the lower stuff situated in the piles.
I still intend to try a 3/8 chain at some point if I get the opportunity - but other than curiosity, I feel now I really don't have much of a need to change anything to make it work better for me nor do I feel the saw itself has to prove anything else to me at this point.. it just flat out works! 

HotRail

Gonna try my 16" stihl ES bar with 7 pin 3/8 rim and stihl RS chain on my 2nd gen 261c.  I'll be cutting on red oak so we'll see...i'll report back soon.  First impression is I like how the saw balances, more back in the hands.

HotRail

Well...my 261c pulls the 16" 3/8ths no problem...keep in mind i'm cutting a big ol red oak.  Saw keeps the rpm's up, which is where this saw needs to be....very pleased and pleasantly suprised to be honest.👍

HotRail

Just wanna add my 261c is well broken in.  I surely don't use it everyday like a pro might, but when I do, I give it (and me lol) a workout.

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