hello,
I was recently talking to someone who also cuts firewood like I do. We were talking about how white oak gets so gnarly and how it is hard to split with a maul. I told him that I use my chainsaw on pieces that I can't get for any odd reasons, and he told me that, that was hard on the saw, is that true, thanks
The-Burl-Hunter ???
If you stand the log up on end and split it that way, by ripping it, you'll make alot of fine sawdust and the going is slow. Lay the log down on its side and cut it with the grain and you'll make long slivers instead of sawdust and the cutting will be much easier. I just taught that trick to a long time firewood cutter last week.
I do it like this all the time. I don't have a woodsplitter. You only have to cut part way and usually they bust with an easy swing. I cut cedar posts in a similar way, only they're 7 or 8 feet long. Since you never cut for long at a time, I doubt it would hurt anything on the saw. The sustained RPM's are just as long in bucking as this.
I'm a chainsaw miller, my 066 runs that way for 8 feet at a time, often in 34" wide logs.
Mark
I've been doing it too for a number of years on the unsplitable pieces. Generally I try to put the piece on a stump or large unsplit round so all the long wood shavings don't keep building up under the clutch cover like they do when ripping on the ground. I've found too like Eric that you don't need a full cut through, one good swing finishes the job. After cutting a few you get good at guessing how far you'll need to cut and still have it break. Every piece of wood differs.
It's kinda hard on it,if you was to do it ALL day long.I don't see anything a matter with doing it on a piece or two.Than stopping and splitting it the rest of the way with a maul.I would not suggest doing it until the tank runs dry unless you have a chainsaw that could be used on a lawn mower too.I've split a few this way,before I got a wood splitter.
When ripping if you hold about a 45 dgree angle it wouldn't cut sawdust and pulls managable long curly fries . At a lesser angle you take the chance of clogging the discharge chute and filling the chain guard full .Which of course you have to clean out .
I use low profile ripping chain, cutting with the grain, it keeps the bar much cooler.
I think white oak is some of the easiest splitting wood.
Split green and frozen is the best method. ;D
When doing long cuts make sure your saw is tuned well, not to lean on the high, they can burn up if to lean and most nerw ones come a little on the lean side. Steve
What I do is stand the piece on end make a shallow cut with the saw then use wedges,if real stringy after the wedges have it open ,mall will blow it apart.This is handy if your disposing of A pine log thats too crooked or full of hardwear,white pine chunks can be tough to split.Frank C.
The other little timesaver I do on a decent peice with a big knot, just cut into the knot and then whack it. Sometimes it only takes 10 seconds and 1 swing, instead of beating your brains out.
I cured all those hard splitting problems last fall .I finally got my hydraulic splitter made . Ha,it only took me twenty years ,not too bad . :D
11 HP engine and 5" cylinder ,almost nothing stops it .
Mom's uncle, he split by axe all his life and wasn't going to buy no splitter. My uncle (mom's brother) was splitting his own stove wood one day and hauled the splitter over to his place and started splitting some firewood he had hauled in for him with horse. He didn't say anything against the procedure. He was almost 90 years old at that point. "Tighter than turkey turd beer" as grandmother would say. :D :D
Dad bought one about a week after my younger brother moved out. Said "why'd I wait this long?'. I think we all know why. I want one, but don't want to pay the money either. But old age will catch up to me sooner or later and I will...
i bet you could have shaved with the old mans axe :)