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Feed problems..new parts..good grief

Started by BB, February 26, 2014, 06:13:16 PM

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BB

So I have spent way to many hours trying to fix my 07 Lt40g28 mill. Have replaced mosfet, control module(twice) and speed control dial. Still the over load light blinks on. No forward only reverse of course..Head is free and all testing has been done with drive belt off. Motor seems fine it does spin in reverse.Not sure how to test motor for forward? All connections have been check and cleaned. Everything looks great as mill only has 105hr on it..??.lack of use maybe! Any ideas for anything left to check would be greatly appreciated. Got some cherry beauties on deck ready to go!
Thanks! BB

Peter Drouin

You open the panel to the forward switch and look to see if the fingers touch like they're suppose to. There is a little thing of grease in there too. Sometimes the fingers need a little bend.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

kenlt30

Had the overload message on my mill, it was the red wire that connects to the 150a fuse down near the battery box. The wire was  corroded inside the insulation.

Peter Drouin

Glad you found it. good luck  8) 8) 8) 8)
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Nomad

     BB, welcome.  What did the WoodMizer techs suggest?  Okay, fergit the welcome.  You've been around awhile!  But the question still stands. :D  Where ya been hiding?
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

BB

Thanks Peter ,Nomad and Ken.I checked the drum switch over well and cleaned it up..have power there. I also clean up the connections down in the fuse box. I have made a couple of attempts now with the techs at woodmizer and testing was telling us the module was bad. Tried a second one today to rule out a bad new one. This one is making me nuts :)

POSTON WIDEHEAD

This is the time of year when the service tech makes his rounds.
I don't know what your situation is as far as needing your mill to make money,  but getting on the list and having the tech stop by to take a look at your mill may be a good thing.
Especially if its been sitting for a while.
Hope you get it figured out....fast......I love sawing Cherry.
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

BB

Thanks for welcomes Nomad. I have been lurking around for awhile ;D
What a great site! I think a tech is my next move..not sure what deal is there if they are out of Hannibal as I'm in upstate NY. That is a haul to here..*DanG this state is big!

MartyParsons

Hello,
You can test the power feed motor.
1. You could switch the wires so the motor would work in reverse.
2.You could unhook the wires and see if the OL light is still coming on when you move the drums switch to forward position. If the light stays off then the over load condition may be in the motor. This is not the best test because there is no load on the system.
3. On the mosfet module you can unhook the blue wire from the control module, there is a male blade terminal on the mosfet. Take a jumper wire and put 12 volt to the male terminal this will make the power feed motor run at full speed forward. It is a good idea to have the power feed belt removed or be ready to move quickly forward.
4.You could also test the power feed with a 12 volt test light, remove both wires and place the test light across the two terminals the 12 volt test light should get bright and dim as you turn the feed rate control.

In the manual there is a pretty good trouble shooting guide that may explain the above better.

You can give us a call tomorrow and we can help.

Marty
"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

Chuck White

Quote from: Peter Drouin on February 26, 2014, 06:37:12 PM
You open the panel to the forward switch and look to see if the fingers touch like they're suppose to. There is a little thing of grease in there too. Sometimes the fingers need a little bend.

Peter is right on this issue, but be careful and don't bend the fingers to sharply or to much, because they won't take much and they'll break off!

Please don't ask me how I know!  ;)
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

jcbrotz

There is a diode in the circuit for the mofset on my mill it was going bad and the head would only move forward in a jerky fashion then it stopped moving at all. Did the have you check or replace the diode also?
2004 woodmizer lt40hd 33hp kubota, Cat 262B skidsteer and way to many tractors to list. www.Brotzmanswoodworks.com and www.Brotzmanscenturyfarm.com

Magic Smoke

With the key off try to manually push the head down the rail, it should push relatively easy, if not, look for a mechanical bind, i.e. cam follower bearings, rusty chain, etc.

Magic Smoke

Oops! Sorry, just re-read your message; If you've been testing the mill with the belt off then it can't be a mechanical bind so disregard what I said previously.
The fact that the motor runs in reverse fine generally means the motor is okay. Look for a shorted (grounded) blue wire going to the P/F motor. Pay close attention to the terminal on the back of the motor and where the wire goes through areas of the battery/fuse box.
If the blue wire is shorted it will show as an overload in forward but reverse will work fine because the blue wire is the ground for the motor in reverse.

Brucer

Did you replace the entire feed control module (that's everything on the aluminum panel at the back of the box), or just some of components?

Mine packed it in last fall. Here's the process I went through (as best I can remember).
- Removed the belt and made sure the carriage moved easily. It did so not mechanical.
- With the belt off, reversed the two wires to the motor and then put the drum switch in reverse. The motor ran fine in the forward direction.
- Still with the wires reversed, reinstalled the belt and put the drum switch in reverse. The carriage moved forward at full speed, so not a motor problem.
- Switched the motor wires back to their proper positions.
- Pulled out the power feed control panel, leaving all wires attached, and made a diagram of all the connections. Inspected the components while I was at it and discovered a burnt out diode. It's stuffed in out of sight behind the big capacitor that runs along the bottom. The diode is encased in heat shrink tubing so you can't normally see it. However, the heat shrink was burned through as well.
- Replaced the diode. WM warned me that the burnt out diode might indicated other problems, and that was true. The unit still didn't work.
- Removed the great big diode on the left side of the control panel and tested it. Oops, not a diode anymore >:(. Replaced that as well. Still didn't work.
- Disconnected the outputs of the power feed control module (that's the circuit board that the pentiometer connects to). Tried operating the power feed and watched the lights on the board -- worked fine. Hooked up the outputs again -- overload and no output signal. Ordered a new module.
- Installed the new module and everything worked fine.

That had me down for a week. I could have replaced the entire power feed control panel and solved the problem right away, but that was a good deal more expensive. I'd have done it if I had any kind of backlog.

Those diodes are there to protect the whole unit from a massive overload. They're wired up so they will never conduct -- unless you get a really big reverse voltage spike. One way to get a big reverse spike is to shove the carriage directly from reverse into forward. The momentum of the carriage keeps it moving and the motor acts as a generator.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

BB

Thanks for the new responses. Brucer I have done the same tests with same results! Took the diode off to bench test and it is bad. Continuity both directions. I was told a bad diode wont usually cause an OL light but a OV LIGHT. I have the OL light coming on. The new diode is on the way hope that solves the problem. 

jcbrotz

The diode will cause the module to go bad. Don't ask how I know ::)
2004 woodmizer lt40hd 33hp kubota, Cat 262B skidsteer and way to many tractors to list. www.Brotzmanswoodworks.com and www.Brotzmanscenturyfarm.com

BB

I wanted to update..mill is up and running. Diode was to blame. Lesson learned here is to always check it first with a simple continuity check, before replacing other components. It should only have a reading in one direction and if bad will kill a module and mosfet. I found out the hard way $$. Woodmizer tech help was great and their customer service is always top notch. Thanks to all the help here!

Knute

Having trouble with my LT28 also. Back is fine, but forward is jerky and unpredictable.

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