WM Hydraulics

[dewwood]

I have been having some problems with the log stops and claw turner on my LT40 Super.  They seem to work some times and not at other times.  I have checked to be sure the actuator on the control rod is tight(the set screw) and it appears to be moving enough to close the switch.  It is only this one valve that seems to be causing problems.  Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks
Dewey

[Percy]

I had a similar problem on my old LT40. It was on the turner lever as well. Seems I yanked a bit harder on that one as it wasnt moving quite far enough to kick the electrics in. A little bit of bendage cured it right up ;D Hope thats all it is in your case. Either way, it should be a simple fix if everything else is workin properly....

[Kirk_Allen]

Another thing to look at is the copper strip on the side of the mill.  If you have tried to actuate the hydraulics while the head is still moving it will put small pits in the connector strip.  Those pits corode and will cause the problem your having. 

I have several dead spots on my LT40.  Instead of replacing the contact strip I am going to cover it with a strip of copper flashing.  Much cheaper than replacing the whole strip and should work just as well. 

[Bibbyman]

Is the pump not kicking on?  If so,  there is a rack of little rocker arms that turn a rod that pushes the micro switch.  We've had to adjust the little rocker arms a number of times until we got it right.

[dewwood]

All of the other valves work fine, just this one is intermittent sometimes it works fine and other times not at all.  I have checked the rocker arm that activates the switch for the hydraulics and tried tightening the set screw that holds it to the rod that runs behind all of the valves.  It appears to be ok but it may be slightly out of adjustment.  It moves the switch but maybe not quite enough, I'll check that again.

Thanks
Dewey

[music_boy]

     That one lever does alot of things. Just a thought,, air in the line,, or low fluid level.
Rick

[Bibbyman]

If the pump is not kicking on when a lever is pulled or pushed and does with other valves or one way on one valve and not the other,  it's been my experience that the little rocker arm on that valve needs adjusting.  Making sure the set screw is tight won't cure the problem.

To adjust it, have the lever in the center position,  loosen the set screw and put just a little pressure on the lever so it pushes the little rod against the plunger on the valve and,  while holding a little pressure on it,  tightened the set screw back up.  Then try it.

Try all the valves while you're in there and adjust any others that arn't kicking in right.

It helps to mutter a few swear words – especially if your hands are too big and don't work right anymore and your eyesight ain't what it was 20 years ago. >:(

[dewwood]

Bibbyman you must have been looking over my shoulder when I was working on that thing cause you sure seem to know everything that was going on.  Gloves were off bifocals laying on saw frame cause they just would not focus right and yes there was some muttering going on too.

I did not have a chance to get back to it today because the wife has the stomach flu( real bad) and I had to move the lumber I had sawed into the shop before the snow tonight.  I want to get it stickered tomorrow if I can.

Thanks for the info!
Dewey

[OneWithWood]

Dewey,
I hope you get everything working again and the snow is light.  Tell Marcia I am thinking of her and hope she gets better quickly!

[sparks]

I don't know what year mill you have but if it is only the lever of the turner and side supports that doesn't work, then here are a few things to check. Some of the guys have already mentioned some of these.
There is a pin that moves up and down as you move the lever. This pin has a v groove on it. It could be the paddle at the bottom of that valve has moved. When checking it, make sure the paddle roll pin is centered in the v groove. Also check to see if the roll pin has cut a slot in the v groove. The slot will not allow the v groove to push the paddle out in either direction. If there is a slot you can try to turn the pin to get a better section of the v groove. Unbolting the valve assy and cocking it sideways will give you a better view of this function. You do not have to remove any hoses.
Since not all the paddles are exactly in the right place you can try another adjustment. Loosen the microswitch mounting screws and slide ithe switch toward the accuator cam until the hyd motor runs. Back it off slowly until the motor stops. Tighten the mounting screws of the micro switch. Let us know how it works out.   Thanks all.

[dewwood]

Just wanted to say thanks to Sparks, his information was a great help with the problem I was having with the hydraulics on the WM.  I believe that I have it fixed now thanks to his instructions.  I appreciate his effort in providing answers to our various questions here on the FF.

Thanks again,
Dewey

[Bibbyman]

I was trying to give the same instructions as Sparks gave.   :-\

Maybe he had better swear words.

[dewwood]

Bibbyman,

I was not trying to slight anyone, I appreciate all of the input I received from the forum members.  I just wanted to give a special thanks to Sparks for making himself available to us here on The Forestry Forum.

Thanks to all who offered advice,
Dewey

[wscott]

had the microswitch fail about a month ago.  drove to town about 10 mile to get a toggle switch from the local ele supply house and while there ask if they had a microswitch like the one in by hand. all i needed was one that would bolt up. they had one. the one that came on the mill was 5amps and the one i brought ($8.00) is 10amps and is still working. sometimes it just helps to ask.

wscott