The Forestry Forum

General Forestry => Chainsaws => Topic started by: sawthemlogs on November 02, 2015, 08:37:10 AM

Title: homelite 1050
Post by: sawthemlogs on November 02, 2015, 08:37:10 AM
This saw is coming up for auction soon...has 22 inch bar and a 36...I was thinking about it to use as occasional log saw..  It does run...I hoping to get some opinions on it.. anyone out there own one or experience with one? Thanks a bunch..
Title: Re: homelite 1050
Post by: weimedog on November 02, 2015, 08:46:49 AM
Expect it will need all rubber parts replaced. From fuel line to carb kits. Not too awful a task but can be a pita to find parts. Once running they are strong saws. They run at a much lower RPM than a typical modern saw. AND they are pretty heavy. Typically the original bars were hard nose vs. the sprocket tips we have now. On mine, I adapted Stihl brand bars to go with the .404 chain it was set up for. Wasn't hard and actually helped that saw a lot not having to bull through a hard nose bar. AND you better be strong. When setup right assuming good condition mechanically...good compression, good spark, etc...they still require strength to get them fired.... big bore, high compression..etc.

I get a kick out of my 1020 which is essentially the same saw...but not one I could use for a main saw as I think of pain when I think of running that saw vs... say...... a Jonsered 920.
Title: Re: homelite 1050
Post by: Al_Smith on November 02, 2015, 08:51:26 PM
The reason for the adaptation of Stihl bars is due to the fact they are readily available .Good Homelite and McCulloch bars are not .

I have a Homelite 2100 S which is the bigger brother to the afore mention saw that I run a 36" Stihl bar on. It just takes some spacer washers/bushings  and if done correctly uses the same driver count as it would on a Stihl saw .

Pro grade Homelites were good old saws ,made for torque not blistering RPM's but made to last almost forever and they obviously have .