My moment of insanity... bought a Husqvarna 390xp

[ManjiSann]

Air filters can be blown off, but it's not a proper fix. Get a new one and make sure it seals around the base.Clear air makes these last a long time. Chain brakes can also be easy to fix. Get the manual and learn the saw. Spend a few bucks on replacing screws and make it back to 'like new'. You have a good one there.

I'll order a new air filter. No reason to save $27 now only to have to replace the carb or cylinder later.
Contacted the seller to see what they'd do about the broken chain brake. Even if they choose to do nothing I'll keep the saw. I agree it seems like a good one. 
I'll have to give her a good wipe down and replace a couple small parts but all in all I am happy  ;D
I'll post some pics of the saw in the next day or so... it's currently in a few pieces so I could figure out the chain brake issue. Guess while I'm troubleshooting I'd best figure out the non-functioning kill switch which the seller did mention in the listing. 
Brandon 

[Old Greenhorn]

That kill switch just quit on my 372clone today, but i heard it is a common husky problem too. I ordered a replacement switch this evening, but managed the rewove the switch and test it. it wasn't working, but when I opened the switch up and saw how simple it was I just did some cleanup and got it working again. It pops out easy and pops open pretty easy too. Don't take the saw apart, just pop the switch out of it's slot with a small screwdriver. Use a continuity meter or Ohm meter to check it. It's a very cheap switch, easy fix.

[ManjiSann]

That kill switch just quit on my 372clone today, but i heard it is a common husky problem too. I ordered a replacement switch this evening, but managed the rewove the switch and test it. it wasn't working, but when I opened the switch up and saw how simple it was I just did some cleanup and got it working again. It pops out easy and pops open pretty easy too. Don't take the saw apart, just pop the switch out of it's slot with a small screwdriver. Use a continuity meter or Ohm meter to check it. It's a very cheap switch, easy fix.

NICE! I figured it was likely the wiring as that's what failed on my Poulans. I'll do as you say and pop the switch out and see if I can fix it. 
The more I look into this saw the more I think it's a gem in the rough and I feel I got a solid deal.  8)
 Pulled the muffler off this morning before work and looked at the cylinder walls, they looked really good to my untrained eye. I couldn't see any lines, gouges, scoring so seems like the cylinder is solid. 
In the below pic, the black oily sawdust, is that indicative of anything more than the saw is from 2011 and has been used? Just wondering if this means there's a leak in the base gasket that I need to address or if it's just normal? Just want to be sure I don't shrug off something out of ignorance that indicates a problem to someone in the know  :P



Thanks,
Brandon 

[Old Greenhorn]

So it looks like the knee joint (part 4) is broken and the brake spring (5) is completely missing.


Does anyone know if there is a little bar or something that connects from the knee joint to the brake lever (11) in the above diagram.

I only just saw this, missed it last night. I could have checked when I had mine apart, but IIRC there is a dowel pin in that hole to engage the lever. Is yours broken off or torn out? That part is only about 8 bucks OEM. If you are doing all that work and it isn't 100% now, I would change that out too. The brake should work correctly and it is a real pain (and hazard) when it doesn't.

[ManjiSann]

So it looks like the knee joint (part 4) is broken and the brake spring (5) is completely missing.


Does anyone know if there is a little bar or something that connects from the knee joint to the brake lever (11) in the above diagram.

I only just saw this, missed it last night. I could have checked when I had mine apart, but IIRC there is a dowel pin in that hole to engage the lever. Is yours broken off or torn out? That part is only about 8 bucks OEM. If you are doing all that work and it isn't 100% now, I would change that out too. The brake should work correctly and it is a real pain (and hazard) when it doesn't.

OG, I agree! As I've grown older and hopefully wiser I've come to realize that many safety items exist for a good reason. 
I found a pic of the lever and it looks like something is supposed to be in the oblong slot that will then connect to the knee joint. 
Brandon

[barbender]

Kickback takes on a new meaning with these big saws and longer bars. You'll want that brake operational! And remember, the brake doesn't prevent kickback- it just stops the chain when kickback occurs. You can still injure yourself seriously if that bar tip flies back and hits you in the face. I had this happen to a friend, a fairly experienced saw operator. He had a saw kick hard in a firewood pile, the chain was stopped but the bar tip came around and hit him in the face. He still has a good scar to remind him of it.

[donbj]

"In the below pic, the black oily sawdust, is that indicative of anything more than the saw is from 2011 and has been used? Just wondering if this means there's a leak in the base gasket that I need to address or if it's just normal? Just want to be sure I don't shrug off something out of ignorance that indicates a problem to someone in the know "

I wouldn't worry much about the oily sawdust. As dust collects in the nooks and crannies it sucks chain oil along with it. Once you run it a bit you'll see if the oiler is working proper or not.

[ManjiSann]

Kickback takes on a new meaning with these big saws and longer bars. You'll want that brake operational! And remember, the brake doesn't prevent kickback- it just stops the chain when kickback occurs. You can still injure yourself seriously if that bar tip flies back and hits you in the face. I had this happen to a friend, a fairly experienced saw operator. He had a saw kick hard in a firewood pile, the chain was stopped but the bar tip came around and hit him in the face. He still has a good scar to remind him of it.

A solid point and good reminder thanks!  I'm going to fix the brake, already sourcing parts. The seller was great and refunded me $60 to help with the cost of fixing it which I thought was very fair of him. 
Brandon 

[ManjiSann]

"In the below pic, the black oily sawdust, is that indicative of anything more than the saw is from 2011 and has been used? Just wondering if this means there's a leak in the base gasket that I need to address or if it's just normal? Just want to be sure I don't shrug off something out of ignorance that indicates a problem to someone in the know "

I wouldn't worry much about the oily sawdust. As dust collects in the nooks and crannies it sucks chain oil along with it. Once you run it a bit you'll see if the oiler is working proper or not.

I figured that was probably the case but wanted to ask to be sure.
Brandon 

[ManjiSann]

Was able to source some used parts to fix the chain brake, should be here some time this week or early next. Fingers crossed I am correct and got all the parts I needed. 

Brandon 

[ManjiSann]

That kill switch just quit on my 372clone today, but i heard it is a common husky problem too. I ordered a replacement switch this evening, but managed the rewove the switch and test it. it wasn't working, but when I opened the switch up and saw how simple it was I just did some cleanup and got it working again. It pops out easy and pops open pretty easy too. Don't take the saw apart, just pop the switch out of it's slot with a small screwdriver. Use a continuity meter or Ohm meter to check it. It's a very cheap switch, easy fix.

Checked the switch and it's operational. Then checked the wires, turns out one was almost complete severed, looks like probably due to vibration wear or something. May try and find some ends at the autoparts store, I used to redo vintage motorcycle connections a lot so this shouldn't be too bad so long as I can find the right parts.
Brandon 

[lxskllr]

Sounds like it's all coming together. You should have a nice saw when you're finished  :^)

[barbender]

I'm loving mine more all the time...I think I'm on tank 5 of gas, all I've been doing is bucking firewood with it. Phenomenal torque, which is exactly what I was looking for👍👍👍

[ManjiSann]

Sounds like it's all coming together. You should have a nice saw when you're finished  :^)

I am really happy with the purchase, I think I got a steal of a deal on this one! Buying used I expected a few parts to be worn out or busted and needing replacement. I think once I get all the stuff that needs to be fixed and must be replaced due to wear I'll maybe have $600 into this saw, so about half of a new one give or take. AND I get the added benefit of learning about the saw and how things work as I repair it which I consider valuable as well.
Brandon 

[ManjiSann]

I'm loving mine more all the time...I think I'm on tank 5 of gas, all I've been doing is bucking firewood with it. Phenomenal torque, which is exactly what I was looking for👍👍👍

I'm really glad to hear that!  8) 8)


One of the several reasons I really wanted to try a pro grade saw is I wanted to see what the difference was between what I had and the pro stuff. I was hoping torque was one of the major differences. I still think the Poulans are a good deal for the price and for what they were designed for and would recommend them to anyone who just needs a saw for the occasional light job or two. The reality is I could probably have moved along just fine using just the Poulans. That being said, just the 10 seconds I ran the Husky 390 to verify it was running decent and with a dull chain that actually was missing a cutter or two and it just pulled right along through the log was enough to tell me the difference in torque. 


I'm hoping all the parts come in by mid next week so I can get her back together and giver her a better try. Unfortunately I only have a couple small fruit trees, maybe 10" DBH to remove so the Husky with a 24" bar is pretty overkill... but I'll still use it  8) 8)


One of the screws that hold the top plastic cover on has the hole stripped out in the metal body so I'll have to eventually buy a helicoil or something to put that right. For now though I don't see any harm in running it with only the 2 screws holding that part on as they are pretty solid. 


The bar that came with it is a nice Oregon bar with the replaceable tip. It was grooved pretty good so I spent about an hour yesterday with a file and I think I got it back in proper order. 


Now to fix the two poulans so I can sell one. Gotta help fund the purchase of this Husky and I just don't need 2 of the same saw right now. Nor do I have the space to collect saws... really should build that chicken coop  :D :D


Brandon 

[ManjiSann]

When you tilt the chainsaw on its side, should it leak a little fuel from the carb?

I noticed what looked like a small amount of fuel looking like it may have leaked out of the carb and I'm wondering it happened when I had the powerhead on its side.

Brandon 

[btulloh]

Should not leak in any position. 

[ManjiSann]

Should not leak in any position.

Thats what I was thinking, thanks for confirming. I'll have to look and see if it was leaking and if so where.
Brandon

[mredden]

When you tilt the chainsaw on its side, should it leak a little fuel from the carb?

I noticed what looked like a small amount of fuel looking like it may have leaked out of the carb and I'm wondering it happened when I had the powerhead on its side.

Brandon

Leaking out of the carp or the fuel vent line?

[ManjiSann]

When you tilt the chainsaw on its side, should it leak a little fuel from the carb?

I noticed what looked like a small amount of fuel looking like it may have leaked out of the carb and I'm wondering it happened when I had the powerhead on its side.

Brandon

Leaking out of the carp or the fuel vent line?

Not sure. I've put it on its side a few times now and haven't seen any evidence of leaks. Not sure what I was seeing.
Brandon 

[Southside]

You might have just been observing some of the saws raw power leaking out.  :D

[ManjiSann]

You might have just been observing some of the saws raw power leaking out.  :D

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO  :D
I should write to Husqvarna and ask where I can find "Raw Power" so I can add it back  ;D
Brandon 

[Nebraska]

Yes definately ;D

[ManjiSann]

I keep trying to tell myself that the saw doesn't need to look perfect just be functional and safe... but yesterday I gave into my pride a bit and bought some high temp engine paint for the muffler. The current muffler is pretty rusty but still seems like it's solid. I need to replace the muffler on my truck as well (hmm rusty mufflers seem to be a trend I just noticed   ) so I figure I'll paint the welds on the truck muffler and repaint chainsaw muffler once I've knocked the rust off. Yeah, probably like trying to polish a turd but what the heck  ;)

I may upgrade the muffler later, once I have a feel for how the saw runs. But I have to be careful as I live in a state that is dry as a tinder box so I need to keep the spark arrester screen so if I drill holes I somehow have to screen them. I may try it eventually but for now the only "upgrade" I'm going to do is paint the muffler... if a chainsaw looks sharp it will cut fast right? 

Still waiting on the parts for the chain brake and a few other fiddly parts like the plastic chain guide that goes on the clutch cover. Should all be here by Monday, if I can trust the tracking info to be correct.

Has anyone made a tool to take the clutch drum off? I'm toying with making my own out of a socket, anyone done this?

Brandon 

[ManjiSann]

A few of the parts came in yesterday so I started to replace the chain guide as the old one was shot



Discovered the screw hole was stripped out  arg-smileyso after much thought and planning (not really  ;) ) I decided to epoxy the new on in place with epoxy in the stud hole and on the edge of the guide. Assuming this holds I figure I'll have to drill out the stud to re-thread it anyhow and I'd imagine these don't wear out very fast... time will tell if this was a decent fix or a terrible idea. 



Also received the new wire for the kill switch, the other being worn through so none of the copper was connected and the 3 new chains I ordered  8) 8)

More parts are supposed to arrive today and the remainder by Monday. Fingers crossed that this fixes the brake.

Brandon