Peterson WPF advice/tips/helpful hints

[CosmoPack]

I've got my Peterson mill arriving in the morning.  I'm starting this to ask for your advice on things that the training video might not tell me.  

What tips have you discovered that make the mill operate better?

What spare parts should I keep on hand?

Anyone used the Log Dogs from Peterson?

Anyone have experience with the clip on slabbing unit? How about the Bevel siding attachment?

I'm just randomly casting these lines out now.  You guys fill me up!

[Ianab]

Hi Cosmo

Getting excited yet?? :D

Most common part you have to change is the blade, but you will get a spare with the mill. Find a local sawdoctor that can retip the blades for you and allways keep a spare on hand. A serious metal strike can take the tips off  :(

About the only other parts I've had to change on my old Peterson is spark plug, drive belt and a couple of the little plastic wheels the frame rolls on. They can get broken while you are manouvering the frame over an obstacle course.

Go saw some logs and have some fun   8)

Ian

[Pete J]

Congrats on the new mill. I'm sure the Captain will throw you a bone. I tailed for him at the Empire Farm Days and that WPF was making the chips fly!

LogRite

[Captain]

So where is CosmoPack? Still milling??  We need a report!!

Practice makes the mill operate better.  I think that everybody cutting with a swing blade mill, or dimension mill for that matter, will agree that the concepts are easy to grab, but there are subtle tricks that are not all that obvious.  That is why I suggest getting some experience cutting 1x1s for stickers out of a couple of 4 foot logs first, multiple chances to get into the motions of operating the mill, and making mistakes and climb cuts on 1" cuts rather than full thickness 8" or 10" cuts.  Once you have some experience, you should go watch others cut.  Heck, maybe we can have a swingblade clinic down in your area where we can get together with others and share.  There is much to be learned, I realized many new ways to approach cutting by watching the factory guys from Peterson, mainly Chris Browne, run the mill.  Practice also makes you realize when the mill is NOT cutting optimally, and what to do to correct it. (Sharpen, infrequent adjustment, etc)  Maintainence on the engine and gearbox at prescribed intervals are the best ways to keep the mill operating.

Parts on hand??  In my milling tools, I keep rollers, specifically the double grooved low track rollers with me.  As Ian mentioned, they can become damaged in transport.  They are also designed to wear before the aluminum rail does, so they have a life expectancy.  Other than that, I keep oil filters as well as engine and gear oil on hand.  I keep extra blade screws and nyloc nuts in the event of a lost article or worn allen head on the screw.  I have 5 blades, three 8 tooth, and 2 6 tooth.  Most of them I always have on hand, but when blades need a major reservice due to a big metal collision my blade guy is a little slow but his work is exellent.  I stock the extras to eliminate down time.  I also have extra water bottles to fill multiple ones at a time instead of shutting down more frequently to refill one.

Peterson Log Dogs, Jake has a neat invention there.  Do I use them?? Yes.  However, only when the logs are less than say 10" on the small end OR the log is older as in the bark is falling off, and the log is slippery.   Appropriately sized square notches in skids work the best.  It sounds like the logs you will be milling will need nothing more.  I don't like metal in my skids as my metal detector does not work as well.....

I've certainly used the clip-on slabber and I can say that it is like a 20+ HP alaskan mill without all of the labor.  You can stand and push the mill through the cut by leaning without the worry of tilting the cut, and the cuts are remarkably smooth.  I must admit to cutting mostly softwood with a slabber, however.

The tapered siding jig is something that I love.  With my low grade materials I make and sell small custom outbuildings, and the siding is always a crowd pleaser.  My problem is how to dry the product without degrade for resale.  This to me is the challenge.

Wow, that was long.  Hopefully it was good for a start.  Now, how did that first day go today???

Captain

[CosmoPack]

Captain,

Thanks for that list!  My mill delivery was delayed for a day.  He had a little trouble getting the mill and all of his other equipment loaded up.  He will be here around 2:00 today.  It will be this Saturday before I get to set up and start my education on the mill.

[CosmoPack]

New question - Who knows some saw docs in North Carolina?  There used to be one down in Hamlet, NC that my dad took the big circle saws to when he was running his mill.  I can't remember the name now.

[CosmoPack]

Does any one know of a domestic source for blades for the Peterson?  I'm trying to lay out all of my supply options.

[Captain]

Yes, ME ;D

Captain

[Fla._Deadheader]

  When is this Southern Sawing Clinic gonna take place ??? I leave for CR on Jan. 21, and get back on Feb. 14. Cosmo, why didja wait until the dead of winter to getchur mill ???  ;D I hate driving in the snow. Had my fill, WAAAAYYYY back when. ;) :D

[Ga_Boy]

Cosmo,

I need to hijack yer thread for a minute.

I am lookign for a mill insurance policy.  I plan on using swing mill and need to find a policy quote to complete my business plan; so far I have ball parked about $3300 a year for insurance.  Once I get a quote, it is off to the bank then wait for a decision.

Any suggestions is appreicated.



Mark

[music_boy]

Ga-Boy
     I have my WM insured through Balmer &Co. Inc outa Pa. Company was recommended by WM rep. My mill is insured for 30,000 with a 2500 deductable. Covers everything. Costs about 600.00 for the year.
Hope that helps.
Rick