Thats all I know what to call it. Here is my before picture. I may need some input from some of you electrical minded guys. I plan on relocating most everything and straightening out this mess.
The mustang has an electric furl pump, electric water pump, electric fan and MSD ignition a bit old stereo and apparently no forethought on wire routing. Everything seems to be protected ok, but the fuel pump is wired hot to a toggle that is also the feed for the water pump. You have to switch the toggle to kill the fuel. I have a new relay here that has a tach switch. Once wired, you get 3 seconds of feed to pressure the fuel pump when energized, then it quits and does not pump until you start the car. It is powered as long as there is tach signal. Engine dies, pump dies.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/20190219_142639.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1550781893)
On any rewiring job, first decide where you want your wire loom to be. After that it's one wire at the time and when you are satisfied with it, then move on to the next wire. That way you are never concerned with the bird's nest because when you reroute the last wire, it will be gone.
I'm going to relocate the MSD box to begin with. I need to do something about the way things are fused as well. Lots of messy inline fuses. The mustangs stock fuse box is pretty basic. They have power to these add ons with just wires stuck in under fuses.
Scavenge a small fuse box from the scrap yard or order one from painless. Then you'll have a dedicated power bus to run off of. Electrical is better if it's ground switched (if possible) like stated previously, wire loom is a clean look.
I have a continuous use solenoid here that I am planning to wire into the system. I will use that to turn on a small fuse box that runs the signal switches to the relays for the pumps and fans. That was I only need one wire running into the main fuse box to a keyed circuit. I've also got two breakers I am going to put in. a 100 amp for that solenoid, and replace the 50 amp fuse for the stereo with a 50 amp breaker.
part of my collection:
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Looks like you know what your working with.
That is going to clean up that mess. I like the tach switch. My concern with electric fuel pump swaps has always been the hazard in a worst case scenario such as an accident or fire.
Do you guys think it will be a problem to do the following. My plan is to use the continuous duty solenoid to add key on accessory power to the fan, water pump, fuelpump and MDS. THis being a ford, it had a for starter solenoid. That has power from the battery to one side, plus the alternator feed the other side goes to the starter. The smaller poles, one energizes with the key, and the other, it the start engage side.
What I want to do, is jump from that solenoid's key on post to the key on post on the new solenoid to activate that when I turn on the key. This way I do not have to run another wire from somewhere inside the car. I know it works, as I used three jumper wires and a test light to activate and test it laying on the fender. It clicks on and off okay. I'm just wondering if that wire is going to be compromised with additionally current draw.
I plan on running a 2ga wire from the battery to the starter solenoid to replace the ragged 4ga that it has now, then jump from the starter solenoid to a 100amp breaker, then onto the hot side of the new continuous duty solenoid using a 4ga wire.
that should work if my brain drew and under stood your described wire diagram. i think you could mock it up and check wires for heat and check current draw. is the reason for the second solenoid to isolate accessories or replace the ford solenoid? Sounds like the former. you are talking about the low current "signal" wires correct. You could also go to the new cont. duty solenoid first and run a wire to the ford solenoid from the high current hot side. but if that solenoid failed, you could not start you car. you could also have a secret toggle inside the car that stops current to the starter solenoid to avoid theft, but that would add more wire. does the new solenoid have a low side rated amp/current? could also install a fuse or breaker sized to the wire to protect the system. went back and looked at your pics, it appears you are doing this right!!
I would run your bigger wire to a buss then wire off that to the solenoid and individually fuse the rest of the components off the buss. Less heat and resistance on your solenoid wire.
Jeff,
One of the best things I discovered is the Del City weather tight connectors. I love them. Solder and heat shrink all at once with a heat gun. They've got all kinds of great auto electrical products.
Solder Heat Shrink Terminal Installation - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d83XuNDnHLI)
Del City - Electrical Supplies & Professional Grade Wiring Products (https://www.delcity.net/navi?action=home&r=IS1001&mkwid=sQVP6SWsb&crid=78412796189&mp_kw=delcity&mp_mt=e&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI16XwwqfS4AIV3x-tBh2kNAPNEAAYASAAEgIW8fD_BwE)
Ill definitly be checking those out. @Brad_bb (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=6191) what do you use for your heat source?
Just hoping that the 50amp to the stereo was 5amp ,or that is one booming stereo.
No, its 50 amp. 1200 watt.
Quote from: Jeff on February 23, 2019, 06:45:03 PM
Ill definitly be checking those out. @Brad_bb (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=6191) what do you use for your heat source?
I use the $50 heat gun they sell. I have use a small torch before, but I think the heat gun is more controllable so as not to overheat and melt the heat shrink portion.
It looks like those solder connections are listed as obsolete on their website.
They have the "double wall" heat shrink tubes that have the weatherproof adhesive. can solder first and then slide over. Not as neat as what Brad suggested. I think they have the crimp and heat shrink, but I always like to tin wires and solder connections. I am sure it will be neat as a pin when you are done.
During my professional life as a telephone company cable splicer, I made literally hundreds of thousands of wire splices. I would be reluctant to use the heat gun solder splices. I watched the video and see no way for you to actually know what the quality of the splice is.
I agree with doc above about tinning, crimping, soldering, and heat shrinking.
All of our splices at work and crimp connectors with built in heat shrink, especially airbag stuff.
Listen to da magic man, he knows his onions (and grits)
Notice how grits creep into a lot of threads.
I'm going to have to lengthen several wires so I'll need to certainly do some quality splicing.
I'm now seeing that. The solder and heat shrink say "Obsolete" by them. I'm going to call when they are open to find out what the deal is. That was the biggest draw of their products. I learned about them be cause West Coast Customs used them to easily wire up all of their LED and neon lights and other accessories.
They seem to be readily available on amazon, but I'm leery about that obsolete tag. Out of stock, currently unavailable, that would be another thing. From what I am reading on line the non-crimp soldered connections are more prone to failure due to wire fatigue.
Ok, I've been going over their website and have found that they still have the terminals I use. I use the 3 function crimp, solder, and heat shrink terminals. These connectors allow you to crimp to hold the terminal in place so you don't have to worry about it coming off or moving positions while you then use heat to shrink the heat shrink sleeve and melt the solder.
I was initially confused looking at the 2 function solder and heat shrink terminals as some of those have been obsoleted. They are probably phasing those out because they are harder to work with without the crimp.
I don't know if you would be interested in buying individual packaged terminals or an entire kit? Looking at the kits, I also see that they changed from lead containing solder to lead free. The 200 pc kit was obsoleted because it was lead solder terminals that are no long sold, The lead free 200 pc kit is there though. I don't think we'll see any installation or performance difference. In any case, there are crimp, heat shrink, and solder kits available. I bought a big kit initially to get started. They are more expensive than the cheap auto parts store terminals, but I think the easy of use and weather tight features make it worth the money.
Home (https://www.delcity.net/store/Crimp,-Shrink-&-Solder-Terminal-Kits/p_818921.h_818922)
Here are the butt connectors:
Home (https://www.delcity.net/store/Heat-Shrink,-Solder-&-Crimp/p_805407.h_824683)
All the other terminal configurations are there in Crimp, solder, heat shrink.
I think they made their website a little confusing by leaving the obsolete items there.
I started the mustang up and ran it a little before I get in there and disable it to rewire. I recorded a couple revs. Man, there appears to be some power lurking in there! Note I had to kill the fuel pump after shutdown. Me no like.
Forestryforum 71 mustang first revs. - YouTube (https://youtu.be/JCYLSthjU4Y)
those connectors sound great. Car sounds great. When you say "kill the fuel pump" are you just rewiring it.
Adding a tach relay. Relay when triggered runs fuel pump 3 seconds. Then stops until the engine fires. The relay is wired to the tach lead. It will energize the pump as long as there is tach signal. If the engine dies, the relay closes killing the pump.
Is that safety incase of crash ect?
Yes. You need a way to shut the fuel off. A mechanical pump obviously stops when the engine does. This one wired to a hot toggle scares me.
thanks, it is good to learn something everyday. Great car and glad it is maken you happy! in the old days there was room under your seat. my bother had a metal drawer under his seat with a switch that ran off the tail light current. it had a solenoid style latch like for rods with the shaved doors. the drawer was spring loaded to open when the latch was triggered. he kept his self defense weapon in there. If he was at the side of the road, he could flip the switch, and then if he touched the brake , the drawer/gun safe popped open from under the seat between his legs. secure, but easy access.
They make a switch that works on loss of oil pressure as well, but I figure the less little oil lines running about the better
Anyone know what the extra blue and green wire might be for on the electric fan relay? They are just folded up and taped to the harness. There is a black ground, an orange power to the fan, a red power to the battery, and a grey wire going to the temp sensor in the intake manifold. I have no idea what the unused wires would be for.
Could it be for an A/C system? They'll usually turn the fan on when the ac compressor turns on.
What might I use this for? :)
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What better way to start to clean up automotive wiring than with a travel soap dish.
This is to convert part of this mess, multiple wires with inline fuses, to one battery feed wire to three self resetting breakers for fan, waterpump and fuel pump.
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It's getting better.
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How do you like the crimper ? i never knew anyone who had one. I like the battery terminal.
Used it just once to make that 2ga cable. Got it for less than 25 bucks at harbor freight. I have some winch cables to fix, so I figure it will get used more. I have some ground cables to make yet as well.
looks like the right tool for the job. You are doing it right. If you use it 25 times in your life, that is only $1 per connection.
I like clean wiring and your looks clean! Most folks would just add to the nest, I'm glad you have pride! Now you just need to get an interstate battery in that car to run all the extras :-)
Cleaned up nicely, Never seen a double hot fixture like that. smiley_thumbsup
I have my homemade relay box finished and mounted. I also added a ground bus. The old wiring had grounds run all over. This allows the grounding of all those go fast electrical components to be grounded right next to the relays eliminating a lot of wire runs.
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Very Nice and nicely done. The rubbers gonna hit the road soon.
I have one more wire to connect for the waterpump feed, then time to start testing circuits. That's a lot a crazy for a 48 year old car.
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I need to touch the before pic back in here. Glad I took a picture, as I don't remember it being that bad!
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You act like you've done this before lol
Quote from: AZ_builder on March 20, 2019, 09:10:08 PM
You act like you've done this before lol
You could say that.
Taking Delivery in General Board (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=95323.msg1502907#msg1502907)
Looks like you need to buy my 25 dodge brothers truck that I don't have time to fix!
Nice job Jeff, smiley_thumbsup
Mr.Clean now. ;D
Quote from: AZ_builder on March 20, 2019, 10:04:58 PM
Looks like you need to buy my 25 dodge brothers truck that I don't have time to fix!
Its not nice to temp. :D Lets see some pics! Pretty sure Don P has an engine that would go in it.
Checking all systems.
MSD ignition: check
Water pump: check
Electric fan: Check.
Fuel pump control: check
Ignition!
Forestryforum checking systems mustang - YouTube (https://youtu.be/t2tY_BEHLfA)
You forgot the Nitrous....and the hotplate in the trunk for cooking Grits on the road.
So, I turned my attention to the horn. Lots of evil under the dash!
No hill for a climber. I took the front seat out so I could get in there under the dash. Those wires are coming from the steering column.
I can make all kinds of things work by wiggling that mess!
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ooooooooooooooooomg
Be careful you don't let the smoke out of something it's hard to get back in :D
Lucky that didn't happen before to the previous owner(s). I actually enjoy doing this stuff. As long as its not a broken vehicle that I have to fix in order to get around in. No joy in that at all!
Jeff I really enjoy what your doing with that mustang my older brother restored cars that he had bought from guys who restored cars but the difference is that Art would get the cars what he called show ready not only safer but way easier on the eyes as well . Do you take to any of the shows nearby like Traverse City ? I think your doing a great job bringing that car up to much higher level show car and ride.
Thank you for including us in on your time in the garage.
That's not a birds nest, it is a spider web. Geez what a mess. Making stuff like this look good, neat, and proper can give on a lot of joy, but oh the time it does consume. Somebody was in a real hurry when they created that mess.
I could read his technique as I unraveled that. Make a (bad)splice, make a wrap with the tape, make another (bad)splice, make another wrap, and so on. One long piece of black tape. :D I'm having some eye and ear issues along with a stiff neck all on my right side, so I'm only doing a little at a time on this. For the life of me I can't understand why that splice is there, unless he changed columns and the new column did not have a connector. The splices multi connector is on the column side. I easily unplugged it so I could work on it. I'll have to take a close look at the condition of the wire I have left to work with on that connector. I have plenty of length on the other side, in fact once repaired I'll need to find a place to secure it up out of the way.
Quote from: hacknchop on March 22, 2019, 12:19:15 PMDo you take to any of the shows nearby like Traverse City
Just a few little "good ole boy" shows around here we have been to. The kind where they get together and vote for the guy that is due to get a trophy versus the car. My kids both live in Cadillac and want us to go up there in June to the back to the bricks show. That's a little far for Mr. Truck, but Stacy's friend Joe offered to trailer it up there if we would come. 50 miles in Northern Michigan in 1946 would have been a journey!!
Yes, you should come up to the Cadillac Show in June. It's a big show for the area. Let me know if you do.
Wiring complete. - YouTube (https://youtu.be/fc1T6rM-xW8)
Outta the barn for a breath of fresh air. Still not sure the electric fan is going to kick on. Using the gauge inside I ran it to 190 and it didn't come on.
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A picture of 2 nice looking Fords. ;D
My favorite style of mustang
Great work on the wiring Mr Jeff
Im afraid that the same guy that wired the car put the engine together.
We took the mustang to clare today for a 20 mile leisurely ride. It started rattling and knocking with a dead miss when we were back to harrison about a half mile from home. I guess its parked until this fall. To busy getting ready for the pigroast. I will do a compression test tomorrow. We never lost oil pressure.
just like a child, got to take the good times with some hard times. hope it turns out to not be too serious!
One bonus about those old V8s is that they are pretty simple to rebuild. I could strip and rebuild my 70s vintage Holden (GM Aus) straight 6 in Dad's shed.
Modern quad cam Toyota with the variable valve stuff? Good thing they are so reliable....
You can get a rebuilt short block for a sensible price, then you know it's all good inside.
Start simple, the coil on the chevy had a loose connector this week and the coil on the tractor was cracked yesterday.
Loose rocker arm. Those don't look like OEM to me.
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No, I would say High-performance ones. Might have to pull the pushrod to see if It got damaged in some way. Then check all the rockers. Do you have a book for the motor?
I bet I -- we can get a book online for our motors.
Funny I use to work on all this stuff when I was in my teens and 20s. 45 years ago. Now I can't remember. Just have to relearn I guess. :D :D :P
Quote from: Peter Drouin on July 07, 2019, 11:08:09 PMFunny I use to work on all this stuff when I was in my teens and 20s. 45 years ago. Now I can't remember. Just have to relearn I guess.
Not exactly what I was thinking but almost. I was thinking I need to find away to afford to have someone do it for me now.:D I had Tammy start it and I adjusted that rocker, and quieted out all the tapping. I'll probably need to bring it up to temp and then adjust it before I put the tappet cover back on. Hopefully I got it quick. It went from fine to a light tick to a pretty good tap in just a half mile.
Rocker adjusted. - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=goTSxhOk1Wo)
Money is why the lift is going in. The money I spent on my two trucks this past spring to get a sticker on them would have paid for the concrete and lift.
We have salt as you do. And it eats iron.
I think in the long run it will pay. Then if I have just a computer problem Or something I just can't do then I'll bring them to the dealership.
I plan to keep the trucks for a long time. There both 5-speed standard and they don't make them anymore.
Power wash and oil every year.
Well, I got to get my butt out there cut some wood to pay for all of this. :D :D :D ;)
Good luck my friend.
If I remember Lusen the rocker till it taps, Then tighten till it stops then a ½ turn more.
Yup, I think I went a quarter turn. I put it all back together and it sounds fine now, other than it has a smoke issue on the right side. I'm sending it into the shop tomorrow to have it looked over by an old school race guy I know. I want to make sure the engine is viable before I continue to do anything further to it. I have some leaks and things that need attention and there is no sense wasting my time on this engine if it has any major issues.
Good idea, The smoke might be from a valve seal not doing its job. I wish you luck :)
Had dat same engine in a T-bird I once bought for $800. Smoked good especially after start up, or adding oil. Turned out ta be partially plugged oil galleries in the heads. I put in new valve guide seals at the same time. It never smoked again during the next 160,000 miles I put on it. Other than a water pump that's all I ever did to that engine. :)
Did you find someone to go over it, Or did you go and check all of them your self??
We've got an old school shop here in town that i trust to look at it, but the weather is good and they also make hay. I'm hoping to drop it off Monday. He has to have one of his bays empty before we take mine over, because he wont put it outside.
Good news. I like [old school] Maybe because I'm old.
Well??
Its still not Monday. :)
Quote from: Jeff on July 21, 2019, 10:10:28 PM
Its still not Monday. :)
I guess I'm excited for you and can't wait. ;) I went to start my car and the battery was dead. So I'm looking at the motor, put my hand on the alternator and it was hot. :o
The battery was feeding into it. I have no idea why. Charge the battery up and it runs ok.
Always something. ::) :D
I'm taking it in in the morning. They have a truck in this morning in the bay I was to get. It broke down over the weekend and the guy needs it to get to work. My deal can wait as far as I am concerned. Nothing worse than a broken down vehicle that you need to get to work.
Sorry Jeff, that was mine, if he'd kick that tractor restore out of the other bay he could get some real work done. I didn't know you were using Joe too :D
A warm alternator makes me think the field isn't wired to the switch right.
Is it all better now??
Dunno. Its still there and ive not even thought about it due to trying to get things done around here. I hope to hear today.
Gary is out of commission for a few days. He has a blood infection. Cut on his hand. Been there. Done that. So, the mustang may or may not be here for the pigroast.
popcorn_smiley
Still untouched. Word is this coming week.
popcorn_smiley
Stopped in on the way home from the U.P, yesterday. Gary has been in the hospital. Had a sore on the back of his arm near his elbow that turned out to be MRSA. Gary is the man for this. He's getting better. We talked about it. we need to just tear the top of the engine down. and make sure it is put back together correctly. Maybe Monday. The sore on the back off his arm looks like a moon crater.
if he is good and has issues beyond his control , it is worth the wait and the right thing to do.
He's my guy. ;)
popcorn_smiley
popcorn_smiley
The Mustang is home and in the barn as of last Friday. The head/rocker stud on the front drivers side was loose. So, never torqued. so that is fixed. He checked the rest on that side and they were okay. Reggie was working on it because Gary has the big Mersa sore on his arm still.
They just are not going to have the time this summer or fall to work on it. I still have some oil smoke out the passenger side exhaust. The consensus is that engine needs to be tore back down to make sure noting else was neglected. Gary doesn't want to do it in his shop due to the opening and closing of doors all the time and the lack of an ultra clean environment. He says they just don't do it anymore.
Good, you got it back. Too bad Gary doesn't have time for you. Most places just want to unbolt a part and put on a new one, easy fast and more $$$ for them. That way no thinking on their part. ::)
I did find a guy here that builds race cars and is more than happy to work on my 32 hot rod.
Mine seems to burn the contacts inside of the distributor cap. It's going to his shop in the morning. When it comes back it will run like Dales #3. I can't figure it out :D ;)
I'm having a hell of a good time with it. I think I'll nickname it the [EDITED OUT ADMIN] ;D ;) All the girls want a ride, Talk about a girl magnet, wow!!!! And they don't care I'm a 64-year-old guy. :D :D :D ;)
Nice day here today 70° with sun sawing lumber and making $$$.
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Ya know I've had more comments on my truck I got in the trade than the car, of course the car has not been out a whole lot, and the remarks about how nice the truck is, comes from old men that know typically what old chevy's become in northern Michigan.
I need to get the mustang fixed. :D
I like your truck too. If I come across one or any old car/ truck and have the $$ at the time I'm going to buy it. Going to car shows gave me all kind of ideas on projects.
For open-wheel Hot Rods.
Might be better building Hot Rods and selling them than cutting lumber for a living.
I see what the hand bilt cars/ trucks are going for around here.
There's is an old guy I met at a show and that what he does one or two a year and gets 30,000 + for them. But, I bet he has 10 to 15.000 into it.
Can't find the help that's not on meth to help at the mill and I'm getting old. A car or two a year with SS I think would be a fun time. With all the baby boomers like me wanting to get a hot rod and they have the $$$ for that. I might get a pice of 401K from them. ;D
I think that if you put your car and truck up for sale the truck would go first I bet.
And if you had a big block in it you could get more $$ for it. ;)
So now I look in the farmers' back yard when I go by them, :D cfarm got old stuff at your place? :D :D ;)
On your car If the smoke goes away after a while running, it's the rubber in the valve seals. If it keeps smoking it's the oil ring on a piston on that side. Just my opinion.
Get an 1954 NAA Ford tractor and a '76 ¾ ton 4wd with a 300 straight 6. That's all I have for old. Not much for power. Well If you count me. :D
She thinks my tractor's sexy ;D
All I need cfarm is just the tin/ body of a car from 1925 to 1940s. I can buy the rest new.
I can get a new [after markit] steel 32 ford 3 window coop with doors and glass for $10.000. But that's too much to start with. I could get me an old rusted one for $1000. A wire feed welder I have will make it nice again.
Open-wheel hot rods are easy to work on everything is open to get to.
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This one is nice with a new frame under it. I bet he could get 25.000 for it easy even with a stock motor in it. And the best thing it will never lose $$$ like a new 2019 truck of today that would cost more.
Open-wheel baby, ;D :D ;)
An update to a stalled topic. I think I've got the Mustang sorted out, but it needs a tuning in the spring. I won't work on engine stuff in the winter. I did change the plugs fir the first time in it. I was told they were new. They probably were, but the wiring and fuel probems killed em. Bad.
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Today was artsy fartsy day. It's murky and snowy out and I'm heating my barn this winter so I've been out there a lot. SANCTUARY. :)
Anyhow, not knowing I even wanted this, but when I was looking in that big empty nose with nothing interesting going on, and a sheet of cardboard behind the freezer, I got an idea. Someday I hope to paint the car here, and I'll paint the woodgrain whatever color the car will be. Pewter I'm thinking. It has a geerage paint job now, might as well get another.
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I used some rubberhose split up the side for trim. Ive had it in a tote with no idea why I have it, but I knew I had it.
making it your own! 8) 8) 8)
smiley_clapping It's winter, we need some sort of project every once in awhile. ;D
Looks ok, I think it will dam up too much air,. move around, and maybe unhook the hood. More air will be going through the radiator good thing I guess. You will know when you take the Hot Rod out on the road. :D ;)
It just looks funny when you look at it in pics, but standing next to it it doesn't. I think the air damming wpuld be a zero issue, because the hood itself closes right down on it. If the cover is a dam, I'd suggest the hood has to be too. It'll look way better painted I think. I may paint it mat black for now.
Never saw this thread, nice wiring work jeff. Im late on this one but regarding butt connectors, i was an avionics tech in the marines, "western union" solder splice was all theyd allow on aircraft wire repairs, fwiw. Its as good as original wire according to uncle sam. Two tinned stubs, hooked like two chain clevis jaw to jaw, then each stub wrap back around itself in the other direction and melted again.
Your air dam will work well at preventing radiator core bypass, so long as it doesnt lift up and flutter or unlatch or anything.
Sharp car. 302 or 351?
Wish you were my neighbor, the 05 F450 I bought and drove home from Colorado has wires hanging, guess the PO just thought he knew more than Ford. The radio hangs back in the dash, looks like it would fit the hole, but is sunken back in there. So far at least the old truck runs OK, hauled some cows to the sale a week ago last Wednesday, had to unhook the trailer plug because if you touched the brake pedal the trailer brakes locked up. Got to get that fixed. In 5th gear, 2500 rpm = between 45 and 50 mph. Don't use OD unless unhooked from trailer. Have to get the syncronizer replaced too, slips out of gear when you let off the gas in 5th gear.
@mike_belben (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=33722) , here is the link on how I got the car. Trade bonus. It is a 351w originally a 302 car.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=104711.msg1628662#msg1628662
@mike_belben (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=33722) can you show a pic of a western union splice, here or in another thread. curious. unless it is "top secret". I like to solder all my permanent fixes. we have a dog radio fence, and all the outdoor splices are soldered.
QuoteIt just looks funny when you look at it in pics, but standing next to it it doesn't.
Ford did dress up Country Squires and Pintos with woodgrain back in the day... ;D
Western union splice, can't be too FBI ;D I found it. Never heard of it before.
must be an old telegraph wire process. I will google it.
I have done that, did not know what it was called. thanks!
Western Union splice - Wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Union_splice)
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Looks pretty slick 👍
Final product.
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nice! looks like it might go faster! 8)