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Dragback Fingers

Started by 4x4American, March 01, 2016, 04:07:58 PM

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4x4American

I'm making up some dragback fingers, wanted to know how far you like them to be dangle below the blade?  I was thinking around 4-6"?
Boy, back in my day..

sandsawmill14

i would think an inch or less ??? but i can measure the s&w tomorrow and see what they are  :)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

4x4American

thanks.  my idea was that if they hung quite a ways lower then they would stil be able to steer once the board has teetered over the cant
Boy, back in my day..

4x4American

also, how many fingers do you think are really necessary?  I had planned on 7, but I am trying not to add more weight than necessary.
Boy, back in my day..

sandsawmill14

if they hung 4-6" lower you would have to raise head that much higher for them to clear the cant so you would still only be using the bottom inch or so depending on what you were sawing :)  i think about 2" apart is how mine are spaced i dont think there would be enough weight to matter no matter how many you used :) but you do want them close enough that at least 2 fingers are on the board being pushed back so it will push back straighter  :)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

YoungStump

On my the LT70 when I bump up so the dragback fingers are almost brushing the cant the blade will actually sweep some dust of the cant.
Echo Enterprises 45HD2 production series band mill, Cook's Edger, sawing mostly pallet cants, rr ties, and grade lumber.

Dave Shepard

My standard LT40 dragback is just a smidge under the band. I wouldn't want to raise the head any higher then necessary above the cant. The longer the fingers are, the smaller the log will be where the dragback is effective, and the shorter the log you can mill. With the fingers just a little below the blade, you can still dragback a slab off the top of almost the highest cut you can make.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

sandsawmill14

x2 :) i was guessing at the 1 inch but it may be less but i will try to check tomorrow :)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

4x4American

Quote from: Dave Shepard on March 01, 2016, 06:14:25 PM
My standard LT40 dragback is just a smidge under the band. I wouldn't want to raise the head any higher then necessary above the cant. The longer the fingers are, the smaller the log will be where the dragback is effective, and the shorter the log you can mill. With the fingers just a little below the blade, you can still dragback a slab off the top of almost the highest cut you can make.


I think I didn't word it right...I'm talking about the dragback finger guides that steer the board, not the pusher units.  I have my shoe thing so that I only pick up the head 1/8" or so and we're good to go.



Boy, back in my day..

Dave Shepard

OK. Now I smell what you're cooking.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

4x4American

Smells good don't it lol
Boy, back in my day..

sandsawmill14

makes much more sense now ;D  :D :D :D i dont have those on my mill but think it would help :)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

Percy

Quote from: 4x4American on March 01, 2016, 04:07:58 PM
I'm making up some dragback fingers, wanted to know how far you like them to be dangle below the blade?  I was thinking around 4-6"?
Ill measure mine tommorow(LT70) and let you know.
GOLDEN RULE : The guy with the gold, makes the rules.

4x4American

Thanks, look forward to reading back from you!
Boy, back in my day..

Percy

 

 
With the fingers just touching the bunks, my dashboard shows 2.5 inches as below



 

You will notice I have 12 fingers on my 70. It came with 8 and some spacers but every once in a while things would go awry so I added 4 more. Also notice they are hinged twice...and the apparatus they are hanging from is hinged as well to lift out of the way when not required. Check out Peter Drouins LT40.  He added the same  or similar to what I have...


 
GOLDEN RULE : The guy with the gold, makes the rules.

4x4American

Thanks much for the pictures!  I've made some headway on the project.


Got the steel and alum yesterday:








I got the extendo arm that connects the fingers to the head mounted.  Gotta beef it up a little bit though cause it's just 3/16" 1-1/2" angle iron. 


Made up a hinge that will be to lift the fingers out of the way or to give it somewhere to go in case of a crash.





Made the cross piece for the mount for the fingers to ride in.  Got that piece nice and snug.  That is a solid 1" bar, I almost wonder if I should just use a 1" o.d. pipe to make that part happen, but it might be better being heavy.  Trial and error...





I cut up some 2x2x3/16" wall tubing that I had to make the hangers, because the alum is wider than the steel bar stock.  Gotta get some small bolts tomorrow to bolt the 1/2" alum to the steel.







Boy, back in my day..

YellowHammer

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

4x4American

Boy, back in my day..

sandsawmill14

hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

Percy

Quote from: 4x4American on March 02, 2016, 11:06:01 PM
Thanks much for the pictures!  I've made some headway on the project.


Got the steel and alum yesterday:








I got the extendo arm that connects the fingers to the head mounted.  Gotta beef it up a little bit though cause it's just 3/16" 1-1/2" angle iron. 


Made up a hinge that will be to lift the fingers out of the way or to give it somewhere to go in case of a crash.





Made the cross piece for the mount for the fingers to ride in.  Got that piece nice and snug.  That is a solid 1" bar, I almost wonder if I should just use a 1" o.d. pipe to make that part happen, but it might be better being heavy.  Trial and error...





I cut up some 2x2x3/16" wall tubing that I had to make the hangers, because the alum is wider than the steel bar stock.  Gotta get some small bolts tomorrow to bolt the 1/2" alum to the steel.

Looks like you got it figured well....FYI, the steel connects to the aluminium on mine with fairly hefty roll pins....

Did I ever tell you about how I bopped myself in the head with this finger thingie????....back when I was trying to run the mill from the LT40 position...good thing I didnt hit my shoulder as I mighta got hurt.... :D
GOLDEN RULE : The guy with the gold, makes the rules.

Magicman

Here is a LINK to Bibbyman's dragback finger mod.  I believe that there is also a video somewhere.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

4x4American


How far behind the blade do yous guys think is necessary?  I don't want it to be too long that it'll javelin me or the tail man..but I need it to be effective.  Pretty much I want it to be as short as possible while still being effective.


Percy funny you should mention that.  This morn I went to the hardware store to get some stainless bolts or something to connect the steel to the alum.  While I was digging through the bolt bin someone said my name, first and last...like I was in trouble lol  anyways it was a guy who bought some lumber off me a year or so ago.  I showed him what I was doing (I had the alum and steel mounting bracket dooey) and asked if he had any idea as he has been a welder/fabric maker for many moons.  He thought about it for a minute, and then brought me over to the roll pin section and they had just enough for my app.  They were just long enough too.  So I got 7- 1/4" x 2" roll pins.  Made up the first finger to do real world measuring, and the roll pin seems to work well. 

Thanks for the link, Lynn.
Boy, back in my day..

YellowHammer

I used roll pins also, they work pretty well.  Mine was about 3 foot long, and like Percy, on the first day I was bending over the outfieed table, returning a board and narrowly missed slamming the finger crosspiece into my head at full return speed.  That's why I stuck some caution tape to the crosspiece.   :D
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Percy

Quote from: YellowHammer on March 03, 2016, 03:28:22 PM
I used roll pins also, they work pretty well.  Mine was about 3 foot long, and like Percy, on the first day I was bending over the outfieed table, returning a board and narrowly missed slamming the finger crosspiece into my head at full return speed. That's why I stuck some caution tape to the crosspiece.   :D
Atleast you were smart enough to dodge it.....  ;D
GOLDEN RULE : The guy with the gold, makes the rules.

4x4American

Well boys, got a bit done today:


Making the fingers:


Tack on driver's side



Tack on passenger's side, this enables me to bend it to plumb so I don't have the fingers looking like my ex girlfriend's teeth.  lol



Leveled the finger hanger and used a plumb bob to bend them to plumb before I weld it out.



and done...or so I thought..more later



Remember how I said I was gonna use 1-1/2" x 3/16" angle?  Well..I changed my mind.








Boy, back in my day..

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