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Measure with a micrometer, mark with a crayon, cut it with an axe

Started by pine, May 12, 2015, 11:44:29 AM

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Andre

Quote from: Ox on May 13, 2015, 12:25:50 PM
How do you guys get the little circle for the degree symbol when typing?


You can get any character your computer can display by using the "Alt Key Codes"
http://symbolcodes.tlt.psu.edu/accents/codealt.html
Note that when using the forums editor some of the key combinations will be interpreted as Hot Keys and cause no end of trouble.  In that case you can type the Alt Key Code into notepad or some other simple text editor and copy and paste into the forums editor.

But also the forums editor does have some special characters as icons, the one for the deg symbol is just above the happy new year guy.

See ya
  Andre' B.

Ox

Andre - thanks for that info.  I got a PM from another member saying the same thing.  I never really realized all the gizmos up there... ::) :D
pine - I've found that when setting a blade there always seems to be several teeth that will push over farther than the rest, almost like they're a bit softer somewhere.  Which means the set will be up to .005 and sometimes .007 or so more on those few teeth.  Usually around .003 to .005 if I remember right.  It matters not except for tooth marks in the cut.  If you wanted to spend longer on setting the blade to the point of perfection I suppose you could take some pliers, bend it back and then readjust the setter for that one specific tooth and get it spot on.  Then you'd have to readjust the setter BACK to where you want it for the majority of the teeth.  Too much time for no improvement in cutting IMHO.
Every blade sets just a little different.  I've never been able to leave the setter at the same adjustment for any blade yet that I can remember.  I'm sure it's been brought back to the same adjustments for two different blades at one time or nother but not two in a row.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

4x4American

Quote from: Ox on May 13, 2015, 09:48:00 PM
pine - I've found that when setting a blade there always seems to be several teeth that will push over farther than the rest, almost like they're a bit softer somewhere.


I have found the same thing.  It pithes me off  :-X
Boy, back in my day..

pine

Quote from: sandsawmill14 on May 13, 2015, 08:46:32 PM
pine when i am sawing syp from butt end i will get that bump in the first 3-8" and saw rest of the log perfectly flat. some days it will happen on 1/3 of logs some days it will only happen 2 or 3 logs. sawing from the top end it doesnt happen as much but still happens. I rarely see it in hardwood where in a early post someone said hardwood was worse.  but anyway i hope you figure it out soon :)

Sandsawmill
Thank you very much for the comments.  I will pay real close attention to it and see if it happens more from the butt end or not.  Can't say I remember right now but could have been that. For several reasons I was doing a lot of butt end sawing a the time.
Really appreciate it your suggestions.

Ox
Thanks for the comments.


sandsawmill14

i think you will like the cooks sharpener once you get it figured out. IMO they are well built simple machines. :)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

Ox

K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

4x4American

Boy, back in my day..

bkaimwood

.003" differentiation on hook set should make nooooo difference...just an opinion...interesting thing I never thought about...with no means of side tracking this thread...I use the same blades all the time...they cut everything great...but when I cut large white pine, I get heavy kerf marks...always attributed it to weak blade tension...but never bothered to look into it...it only happens when I slab white pine for tops, 24" or so...never persued it because the "clientele" seem to like its more rustic appearance. I call cooks, tell them mill specs, and tell them that I saw the ugliest, hardest garbage out there, and they deliver?? I'm not blade smart...I could learn much from this thread...
bk

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