I am looking to replace my saw and want opinions on what to buy. I cut wood for heating my house on 10 acres. I want a mid range saw that has the power to cut thru big wood, and I don't want to be under powered.
That what I do ("cut wood for heating my house on 10 acres") and I have enjoyed the Stihl MS361 with 20" bar for the last two years (before that a 1975 Stihl 041 with 20" bar for 29 years).
Many saws will fill your needs, IMO, but I'd first find a local dealer that you want to work with and who will work with you. That is the saw to get, not necessarily a Stihl. I go to where I can get good service as well as someone I can talk with about cutting wood, saws, and other insundry stories. Sometimes it takes me an hour to get out of the chainsaw shop. :)
Yup.. what Beenthere said, find a good local dealer and see what he sells. All the main brands Stihl, Husky, Jonsered, Dolmar etc make good saws. Some models are the Pro grade ones, lighter, more powerfull and durable. Others are 'part timer' saws, still perfectly OK for their intended purpose, not as good as the 'Pro' saws, but they are cheaper.
The Stihl 361 is a pro grade saw, would be a good choice. My personal choice was a Dolmar 7900, it's a bit bigger saw, but I need to run a longer bar for the bigger trees we have here. With a 20" bar a 7900 would be a cutting fool :)
Cheers
Ian
Check references for a local dealer who sells at least one of the major brand saws in your area and provides continued service for the brand when needed. A check with local loggers in your area can often set you on to a preferred dealer and the popular brand saw being used in your area.
> has the power to cut thru big wood
To me big wood is anything over 30 inches, for some it is anything over 48 inches.
When I cut a tree for firewood, I use the whole tree except maybe the leaves :D
So, power with light weight is important, which is why I am stuck on the Husky 365 and why I got rid of the Husky 3120 ;) Torque, speed, and horsepower is nice except when you are holding the saw for 3-4 hours straight and trying to cut a 3" branch at waist level.
I use the 365 to regularly cut 20-30" white oak with no problem. I use my smaller Stihl MS-180c to chop up the branches before I do the trunk and I cut up even the 1" branches for burning and kindling. If I was removing trees from my 10 acres I would use the whole tree.
So, I would either have two saws (large and small) or a medium saw (say Husky 365) if I could only use one.
If only one saw, I would say the Husky 372 or Stihl MS-660 might fit the bill and still be able to handle 32" hardwood, using full skip chain, without a problem and still be able to tackle the smaller branches with a 18-20" bar without being too heavy or awkward.
I would get a Stihl MS440 Magnum for what you are talking about. I would say that would be perfect, and fast. :) ;D 8)
I would also look into the Stihl MS441, it's the 440 on crack! A friend of mine compared the power to his 066, only lighter and easier on fuel.
Dave
Quote from: North collins on December 13, 2006, 12:27:33 PM
I want a mid range saw that has the power to cut thru big wood..
This is a bit of a contradiction. I don't think of a mid range saw for big wood. But big wood is relative. How big is your big wood? A 361 is a mid range saw, but not intended for big wood IMO. For big wood, I use a 660, but's nowhere near a mid range saw.
All points meet nicely at a 70cc saw. (440).
Quote from: fishhuntcutwood on December 16, 2006, 03:57:07 PM..... All points meet nicely at a 70cc saw. (440).
372xp, that is....... :D :D :D 8)
Well I looked at the Husky 372, Stihl MS 440, MS 460 and came home with the 440. I have not used it a lot yet but the little use I did give it I am very pleased. Several members thought it was a good choice and I got it for a good price. I have seen a couple of like new used ones on E-Bay go for more than what I paid. ;D
I have a 372 and sometimes it gets a bit heavy for limbing the little stuff. It's not underpowered though, at least with a 20" bar. Depending on how big your trees are it maybe more than you need, or maybe less than you need. I find bucking 12 to 16" hardwood firewood is where the saw shines, most people are amazed how fast it drops through wood like that :). I've cut lots of 24-36" hardwood rounds with it too but if thats all I cut I would get a size or two larger. If I never cut anything bigger than 20" I would get a 357xp as the 365 is really a small bore 372.
Ian
If i was looking in the 0-50cc range I would pick in this order Dolmar 5100S, Partner 5000, Poulan pro 305, Stihl 260.
0-60cc I would pick Husky 357xp, Stihl 361 ( own 357 dont own a 361, going on everyones word) Husky 359, Poulan 3750, Poulan 330.
0-80cc Dolmar 7900, no other choice there stock.
0-95cc Stihl 066 660, Dolmar 9010, Husky 395.
0-125cc Husky 3120, Stihl 088 880.
Yes I was bored this morning and burning up time. and sure there is alot better choices out there.
Quote from: IndyIan on December 16, 2006, 09:13:13 PM
I have a 372 and sometimes it gets a bit heavy for limbing the little stuff. ....
Try the MS361 with a 15 or 16" bar for limbing - that is really a dandy for that use....... 8)
....and I agree on forgetting the 365 - the 361 makes the same power and torque (not quite in the US though), and weights more than a pound less.......
It kind of depends on how much "big" wood, and what is big.
The 346xp is a great overall saw. With a 16 inch bar, is fantastic with small to med size trees and limbing. Throw a 20 inch bar, and you could be good for all occasions.
Interesting that Stihl does not have a saw in the 60-70cc class except for that dinosaur, the MS390. ;D The 365 is very popular here with a 20" or 24" bar for construction and tree removal work, especially after our recent storms. I have tried the 570 (68.5cc) and prefer it to the 365, nice fat powerband and easy to handle.
Quote from: Peakebrook on December 17, 2006, 07:58:12 AM
It kind of depends on how much "big" wood, and what is big.
The 346xp is a great overall saw. With a 16 inch bar, is fantastic with small to med size trees and limbing. Throw a 20 inch bar, and you could be good for all occasions.
...... I surely wouldn't want a 20" on that one, absolutely max 16".......
It was originally concieved as a high rpm limbing/thinning saw, with a 13" bar...... ;)
Agreed. The performance advantage is lost with a longer bar.
SawTroll,
I was just wondering how much difference a longer bar could make on a saw? I can understand that a longer bar/chain has more weight, more inertia to rev up and down, but in a 12" cut, is a 20" bar measurably slower than a 16" or 13" bar?
The main problem I can see is why a 20" bar isn't such a good idea on a lower torque saw(like a 346xp) is there would be a fine line between bogging and over revving when cutting 20" of hardwood. But maybe this setup would still be Ok for the ocaissional big tree?
Ian
Quote from: SawTroll on December 18, 2006, 09:52:05 AM
LOL - just had too.....
:) :D 8)
Well you won't find me arguing with a 372!
I ran a MS 360 for a few years cutting a fair bit of softwood for firewood, ran great, light enough to limb and still plenty of power. But you can't go much beyond a 24" bar on that
Depends what you call big wood. I run a MS 460, all hardwood now and that'll handle anything that you would want to cut up for firewood. Nice balance and plenty of power. I've worked the exhaust on mine and they come standard over here with the dual port, we don't suffer from your EPA rules.
Save the big stuff for someone to mill :)
Be safe!!
Allison :) :)
Quote from: fishhuntcutwood on December 18, 2006, 11:31:34 PM
Quote from: SawTroll on December 18, 2006, 09:52:05 AM
LOL - just had too.....
:) :D 8)
Well you won't find me arguing with a 372!
Btw, mine is a xpg, as I need the heated handles.
A 441 would have been a couple hundred USD less here, but the 372 was what I wanted..... 8) 8)
...and it is doing well! 8) 8)