Sawmill Maintenance/Repairs

[TimW]

Thanks.  I knew it all screws together, but couldn't remember if it was pipe fittings.

[randy d]

Today we had WoodMizer service loop do a tune up on my lt28 and my nephews Lt15  Oscar and Mat Oscar worked on my mill and Matt on Jeffs. Both mills turned out perfect Thank you to both Matt and Oscar for doing a great job its money well spent. Randy

[LeeB]

I was cutting a big chunk of an old oak that had been standing dead yesterday when the blade started getting wonky. I had already cut one log with it so figured it was dull and tie to change it. Changed  blades and still cutting poorly. Got a second resharpened blade and it was even worse. Figured I had done a poor job of sharpening and got a third blade. No better. The cuts were all over the place and dished in the middle. Took the third blade off and started checking guides. Found the inboard guide loose. It as getting late so I packed it up for the day. This morning I did and alignment on the guide rollers and found the blade guide arm loose also. Did an alignment on it also. Tried a cut on the edge of a 4/4 board to verify that the blade height was good and the blade went nuts again. Found the guide arm loose again. Snugged it all back up and ran the arm out and then back in. When I ran it back in it didnt stop like normal and ran right out of the rollers. I had to loosen the outboard rollers off to get the arm back in. Started trying to get it snugged up and was having no luck at all when I finally noticed the upper inboard arm roller bearing was shot. New ones are ordered but I figure by no Ive gotten everything so far out of wack  it will be quite a chore to get it back right. Gotta fix my laptop too. This one is an older one I have and many of the keys arent working. Sure makes it hard to type..

[vratarneli7]

Good idea.  The old jug was well over probably 5 years old so it really is not an issue, and even then UV did not kill it, dropping it did.  ai face generator

I have started keeping a half full fuel jug to keep from lifting 5 gallons so starting today, that lube jug will not be over half full. https://kobilabs.com/

yeah thats a great idea!

[YellowHammer]

FWIW, the check valves just rotate and snap apart at the seam to get them apart to clean them.  Just be careful, it's no problem to open them up and clean them. 

They are very easy to split and open up, and the if you have a $5 O ring kit, you can "zero time" them very quick for a few pennies.  The new check valves cost about $20 each from WM, the O rings cost pennies and I change mine from Butyl rubber to Viton so they won't react and swell with diesel or Spindle Cleaner.

The snap in tubing connectors are very common, especially in the remote control toy market.

I just recently had to replace my Lubemizer pump, WM had it on two month backorder, but Amazon got it it to me in 2 days, same manufacturer, latest version, cheaper.

The wire filter bowl is also easy to take apart and clean, and is the usual cause for my lubemizer not spraying, I get sawdust and stuff in the jug when refilling, and the filter does its job to catch it.  They are commonly used in marine and agriculture pumps.

I have no idea why WM has two nozzles to spray on the band, other than it looks cool. I removed my bottom nozzle many years ago and replaced it with a zero fitting which acts like a plug to block off the bottom.  So the only spray comes out the top nozzle, and I never get buildup on the bottom of the band.  With half the nozzles shut off, I use about half the lube, right off the bat.  However, I have found since I use diesel and CPSC oil, plugging off the bottom nozzle also increases the pressure when using very intermittent spraying, so gets better atomization anyway. 

I have not done it with my lube jug because it's kept under cover, but I spray the exposed jugs on some of my ag equipment with white "Flex Seal" and it provides 100%v UV protection as well as seal up and drips or leaks.



   

 

[TimW]

YH,
What does the R/C toy market use them for? My plumbing supply doesn't handle that small of fitting.  Grainger has them for $20.xx each.  I ordered them from Woodmizer for $10.04 each.

[YellowHammer]

They are used for compressed air and fuel lines on RC planes and jets.  Some are metric some are English.  The gold standard trade name is Festo but lots of Amazon generic copies around for much less. 

[TimW]

Cool, but do they come with 1/8th inch pipe nipples?

[Larry]

My local Parker hydraulic store carries the full line of Parker PTC pneumatic fittings. Lots more sizes than I ever investigated. I use lots of them for vacuum clamping and templates. Replaced all of the OEM fittings on my widebelt sander with Parker fittings last year. They are only a few dollars each and top notch quality so I never have tried anything else.

I guess i did buy a few from the local Grainger store before I discovered Parker. They worked ok, but were really high priced.

 

[Stephen1]

I use those fittings on my RO machine for the maple sap. I have also used them on the ice maker on my fridge. 

[CCCLLC]

Ahhhh!  The ice maker. I knew I had seen them somewhere. 

[TimW]

I was thinking ice maker kits.

[SawyerTed]

Ice maker supply line comes in polyethylene and food grade silicone.   Both are pretty inexpensive.

Just know the polyethylene is stiffer like Woodmizer OEM line.  The silicone line is very soft and flexible.  Both work with push to connect fittings.  

Polyethylene line comes in blue, white/translucent and black.  I used a lot of it for lower volume air supply to manufacturing machines that required pneumatic actuators.  Occasionally we needed the flexibility/stretch of the silicone lines.   

[maple flats]

While not routine, I do have an issue with my Woodland Mills 14 hp Kohler. The electric start clicks but the starter fails to spin. I can start it using the rope start and it seems to fire on the first pull, but I'll need to remove the starter and turn the shaft manually to see if it frees up. If not I may need a new starter.
It all happened when I didn't use the mill for about 10 months. I first added fresh non ethinol fuel (Never used any other) checked the oil and then put a jumper pack on to start the mill At first it would not start with trying the electric, then I pulled the rope, no start. But I only had to drain the carb bowl and it fired first pull. Ever since I have tried the electric start each time but only get a click, then I choke it and pull, has started first pull ever since draining the carb bowl. 
I guess this should tell me not to let the mill set so long without using it. I'll try to do better. I just have too many irons in the fire so to speak.

[beenthere]

maple flats

Sounds like a battery without enough umph.  Or a corroded cable connection.

[YellowHammer]

I agree, definitely electrical, either a bad battery, bad connection, bad wire, bad starter or relay.  Put a voltmeter on where the wires go onto the starter, (and if you haver another, hook it to the battery) and turn the key and watch where the voltage drops.

[TreefarmerNN]

MM's description caused me to have a flashback to a project up in Ohio where I saw a large woman  (Politically correct term for a big fat heifer - sorry if that offends any cows out there) wearing shiny silver sweat pants. From the rear it looked like someone juggling a bag full of bowling balls every time she took a step. I still wake up screaming after dreaming about it sometimes.

Two bulldogs fighting in a sack. . .

[GAB]

TreefarmerNN:
You just reminded of a statement my dad once said - When smuggling little pigs you only put one to a bag otherwise they fight and make noise.
GAB

[TimW]

I replaced both check valves on the Lubemizer.  Then I did half of MM's mod and just added a 1/8th inch pipe nipple before the valve and clamped the nipple to the pump mount.  Now it is "easier" to access.  But not as easy as MM's.
Before hooking up the lines, I removed the nozzle and blew downstream from the 3psi valve. I think it was clogged there, before the nozzle.  Anyway, it is fixed for now

Below is the 3 inch nipple mod and the original installation.

[Magicman]

You did good.  Yours was my original intention and is what I described to you, but then I opted for a complete relocation.  My 6psi is also in a different place and is much more accessible.

If the 6psi sticks open, you get no squirt.  You can plug the line and get by until you get a replacement.  If the 3psi sticks open you get a continual drip, just remember to close the jug valve overnight or it will drain your tank.

[doc henderson]

Howard, does your wife know you are dreaming about this lady?

[TimW]

Doc,
    I am glad you replied.  I wanted to, but as usual, what Howard wrote left me speechless.

Maybe Howard was dreaming about the bag full of bowling balls?

At least is wasn't a bag with a snake in it.  

[SawyerTed]

Tried to saw on Monday morning.  Positioned a red oak log for the opening cut.  The mill made the first cut like butter.  Nice!  

Using the hydraulics everywhere I flipped the log 180 degrees to make the opposite cut.

The head was at the far end of the mill, it wouldn't return.  After a few minutes checking breakers, making sure there was no debris on the track and so on, I switched the mill off for a few minutes.  

Upon restarting, the head would return but would not feed in forward.  Up and down worked fine, reverse worked fine. No forward feed.  

Time for troubleshooting, I pushed the head to the far end of the mill and connected the reverse speed control to check the speed control potentiometer.  The reverse speed could be controlled so the pot is fine.

Then I started checking the motor control module (what the manual calls an H bridge) read out LEDS.  Reverse is green, forward is red.  Both switch input and motor output green LEDs light up in reverse.  Only the RED Switch Input LED lights - NO RED Motor Output!  

I just got off the phone with Woodmizer Service and a new H Bridge/Motor Control Module is on its way.  Under Warranty!  Kudos to Chris at Woodmizer for quickly addressing the problem and for listening to my troubleshooting process.

Hopefully, I'll be able to mill over the weekend.  I have some personal project material to cut.  My sawing season is picking up a bit.  I have four jobs in the next two weeks!  Hoping more are around the corner!  

[Magicman]

I accidentally let my lube jug slip and fall this week so.....


A brandy-new-in-da-box jug came yesterday.  The spigot was a bit different but everything is OK now.  I wondered about painting it white to help with UV?

So I got this "new and improved" lube jug but I never could get the cap to stop leaking.  Not much but any is a nuisance and I did not want "any".  I called Wood-Mizer and offered my complaint and as usual, an old style jug was on the way.


Well almost the old style.  I do not particularly like the new cap, but my old faucet fit and it does not leak.  I use the quick connects with my drill centrifugal pump to refill so I am satisfied.  Getting in a hurry and not using that pump is what caused me to drop the old jug, so lesson learned.  Quit lifting 5 gallon jugs above my head.

Apparently I was suppose to loosen the vent cap, but I took care of that too.  Tighten the cap and drill a hole in the top of the jug just above the vent cap.  That is what I had on the old jug and never had any problem with any infiltration through the hole. 

Anyway, I am satisfied.


 

[Stephen1]

Maple Flats, I just went thru a similar problem with my ATV, click, boosted, click, charged battery as it was low, click, my buddy was over just after I installed the charged battery, click, he jumped across the solenoid, its good, and then he hit the starter with the wrench....starts. Our thoughts at the time The bendix got jammed with the low battery. Wacked it and now all good!