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New here - chainsaw mill start up questions

Started by sumpnz, August 22, 2020, 12:39:43 AM

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sumpnz

Signed up a couple weeks ago, but been too busy until now to post up.

Got a new MS-461, 28" and 36" bars,  and a Mk IV 36" milling attachment.  Still need to set up some infrastructure before I start milling.

Are 1x2s from Home Depot ok for stickers?  I'll be milling big leaf maple, birch, alder and occasionally cedar.  Maybe a fir once in a great while.  Would it be better to mill, say, birch first and use it to make stickers vs 1x2 stock?  My main worry there is the need to have the stickers be dry before using them.  I don't want to have to wait a 6 months to a year for some stickers to dry out enough before milling slabs.

How important is it to have a shady spot to stack vs having a simple top cover (e.g. the first cut off the log)?

For the first cut, I was figuring to order the slabbing brackets from Granberg, and then use 2x4s that I'll flatten with the jointer for the rails.  Or should I really just order the EZ rails (they seem unnecessarily expensive, but maybe I'm wrong).

What do you all like for dust masks?  Just a simple paper type mask, N95's, or something else?

I'm sure there's other things to consider, but that's probably a good start.

terrifictimbersllc

Quote from: sumpnz on August 22, 2020, 12:39:43 AMAre 1x2s from Home Depot ok for stickers?
Yes, if they're from inside, dry.  Making stickers by chainsaw milling is too much work for what you get.  

Dont underestimate need for hearing protection with CSM.  Foam earplugs with ear muffs over them. So you can hear the birds when you get old. 

I wore a P100 lead paint respirator most of time when I ran Peterson slabber. 

First cut off log won't keep water from drenching pile repeatedly suggest using something wider, plywood or sheet metal. 

DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

JoshNZ

I used to tack an aluminium ladder to the top of the log when I had a chainsaw mill. As long as whatever you've got is straight and parallel it works fine. I always got rid of it after the first cut and rode the previous cut thereafter.

And I think everyone has probably cut stickers from the log they're going to sticker, at some point. I don't think it's a big problem if you're dressing the timber afterwards anyway, wet stickers do leave marks usually. Would be inefficient with a chainsaw for sure but if you have a table saw nearby you can cut quite a bit out of a broken section of flitch or a waste slab.

Whatever is comfortable and works, for the dust mask. The exhaust sucks, on a dead still day it's the pits actually. 2 stroke on your breath and watery eyes all day haha. A breeze is your friend.

Good luck!

sumpnz

Thanks guys!

Couple more questions.

I've read that Canola oil for bar lube is used by some for CSM.  Is that true, or should I stick with the "bar oil" from the saw shop?  Either way do I need to set up an extra oiler to lube the chain as it comes off the nose sprocket?

What do you guys like for moisture meters?  

50:1 for the fuel still ok or should I go 40:1 or even more oil?  

Brad_bb

A ladder section is good for the first cut.  I use some plumbing metal strapping looped over a rung on either end and screwed to the log.  Make sure your cut will be under your screws.  Use scrap wood and wood wedges under the rungs to adjust the ladder and make it stable/rigid so It won't move on your while cutting that first slab.  Your first cut is most important as all following cuts will register from that.

Chainsaw milling is miserable in hot weather.  If possible do it when it's cool.

Admittedly I may not wear a respirator when CSM'ing unless the wind is blowing at me or it's walnut.  I always wear one with walnut or when milling osage on my band mill.  I use the basic 3M half mask with P100 filters.  The mask is $10-$14.


 

The whitewood stickers will be fine IF they are DRY.  Framing lumber in the box store is only required to be 20% moisture content or under.  12% is about normal ambient conditions.  I have a Wagner pin less moisture meter. 

In summer I leave my slabs stacked in the shade for 2 weeks or so preferably protected form rain.  the point is long enough for the surfaces to dry enough that mold can't form.  Then they go into my polebarn which is about 10 degrees warmer than outside.  In winter they just go in the polebarn.  There is enough air exchange in the polebarn that it's not a problem.  You don't want your slabs or any wood in the sun preferably because the sun will cause uneven drying and can dry one area faster than a shaded area and cause warpage.  The sun will also grey out your wood.  Sometimes it doesn't matter (If you're going to plane it), and sometimes it does if you're using live edge.  You don't want to bring your wood inside a space that is heated/air conditioned as the air will be too dry and cause too rapid drying of the outside of the wood. Wood is like short ribs, cook them low and slow.  You also don't want to shut up wet green wood up in a non-ventilated space because they will mold.  Mold can stain. 

Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

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