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DIY powerfeed

Started by Skidoojustin, November 27, 2024, 09:42:52 PM

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KenMac

I would require the walk away control as you can do many tasks while the saw is in the log, such as stacking, etc. 
My mill is hydraulic and I'm usually by myself, so that time is needed to be somewhat efficient.
Cook's AC3667t, Cat Claw sharpener, Dual tooth setter, and Band Roller, Kubota B26 TLB, Takeuchi TB260C

ktm250rider

I monitor my feed rate (i think my blade is slipping) but i walk away for carriage return, with limit switch.  Just that alone saves a lot of time.

mroldstyle

I pretty much stay with, maybe scraping sawdust off board, or throwing slap off to side. Stack on return and have limit switch to stop movement at end.

mroldstyle


fluidpowerpro

As I often do, before a project I start accumulating the parts I might need. Many times along the way I change my mind on the final design which is the case here.

My initial plan was to use a 12vdc gear motor with a PWM.
I also had purchased a Jazzy 12/24v wheel chair motor as another option.
I then purchased a 12-24vdc voltage booster.

With the above parts I had 3 options.
1. 12vdc gear motor with PWM driver.
2. Use the Jazzy motor at 12v with PWM driver.
3 Use a 12-24vdc booster and use the Jazzy motor at 24v with PWM.

I just did a bench test to see how things work.

The first test was with a 12v PWM driver with a 12v gear motor.
The 12v gear motor started turning at 30% pot adjustment on the PWM. Max speed was about 60 RPM.

The second test was with 12v PWM driver and the Jazzy motor.
The Jazzy motor started at 20%. Max speed was about 60 RPM.

The third test was done with the Jazzy motor, a PWM driver as well as a 12-24vdc booster.
With this set up the motor started turning at 2% signal and the speed is about 120 RPM.

In all cases, when the motor just starts turning there isnt much torque. I was able to stop the sprocket by hand.

I do think any of the above would work for me but I think my best performance will be with the Jazzy motor running at 24v.

I do have concern that adding the voltage booster into the system is just one more thing to break down but worst case, if it does fail while on the job, I can by-pass it and run at 12v.


Change is hard....
Especially when a jar full of it falls off the top shelf and hits your head!

Local wind direction is determined by how I park my mill.

jpassardi

FPP - My suggestion is: Fab it with a place/provision for the 24 V step up. Try it initially without, if needed you can always wire it in. As I said, mine works great without so I never added one. -just my suggestion
LT15 W/Trailer, Log Turner, Power Feed & up/down
CAT 416 Backhoe W/ Self Built Hydraulic Thumb and Forks
Husky 372XP, 550XPG, 60, 50,   WM CBN Sharpener & Setter
40K # Excavator, Bobcat 763, Kubota RTV 900
Orlan Wood Gasification Boiler -Slab Disposer

fluidpowerpro

Actually I had planned on doing that exact thing but once I did the test, and the fact that I had already bought the booster, I will just go ahead and do it at 24VDC. 
With the PWM driver its not hard to just run the drive motor at 24v while everything else is 12v.
Change is hard....
Especially when a jar full of it falls off the top shelf and hits your head!

Local wind direction is determined by how I park my mill.

mroldstyle

So, did you use the boost converter you had the link to? I don't read Chinese, so which side did you use for your 12-volt input? I can see the plus and minus signs but no idea which is input, and which is output. Also, they mention having to adjust the output to what voltage you want??
Thanks again for the pic!
Brian

fluidpowerpro

Yes. I used the one I had the link to.
With the terminals facing you, from left to right,
12v plus is the first terminal (Y+)
The second (Y-) is 12v negative.
The 3rd is 24v out negative.
4th is 24v positive.
If you look closely with a magnifying glass at the terminals you will see they are marked.
I didn't make any adjustments. I measured 23 volts so that was close enough for my test. I will adjust it up later.
 
Change is hard....
Especially when a jar full of it falls off the top shelf and hits your head!

Local wind direction is determined by how I park my mill.

never finished

I use mine as a 24v system. But I have a drag back also. It is surprising how stout it is, no complaints. I used the wheels from the wheelchair to run my cable around with an extra loop around the wheels like a capstan winch. I'm still using the original controller with the wheelchair. I'm having a few little problems with that now (power button is wearing out). So I'm starting to look into a pwm. Watching this conversation for that. Using the drag back I don't have any spare time to do other things. once I get back flip slabs into a rack on one side or stack lumber on my side of the mill. 

mroldstyle

Had to turn my boost converter down, it was at 46 v. output

fluidpowerpro

Made some progress on my control box today. This box contains controls for both my power feed and a Mikron unit I will be installing later.
Still waiting for a few push buttons to arrive that need to be installed so those arent pictured. Next will be wiring.
Change is hard....
Especially when a jar full of it falls off the top shelf and hits your head!

Local wind direction is determined by how I park my mill.

jpassardi

Looking good FPP.  :thumbsup:
Terminating the wires on the PWM's would be easier if they weren't so darn tiny...
Have you considered installing the digital speed display for the feed? I find myself using it regularly once I have a uniform cant. You find the optimum feed rate on the first cut then dial to it on each pass through the cant. If cutting pine and coming up on a large knot, I'll slow the feed then dial back up to it after passing the knot.
LT15 W/Trailer, Log Turner, Power Feed & up/down
CAT 416 Backhoe W/ Self Built Hydraulic Thumb and Forks
Husky 372XP, 550XPG, 60, 50,   WM CBN Sharpener & Setter
40K # Excavator, Bobcat 763, Kubota RTV 900
Orlan Wood Gasification Boiler -Slab Disposer

fluidpowerpro

Thank you.
My pwm's are the ones that have the digital displays mounted to them , not with the wire pigtails.
I currently use one that is the same for my raise lower. I seem to get to know what knob position is best for each situation.
Change is hard....
Especially when a jar full of it falls off the top shelf and hits your head!

Local wind direction is determined by how I park my mill.

fluidpowerpro

I haven't been able to work on the power feed as much as I want to but I'm making some progress.
My plan was to get as many things done ahead of time before I actually bring the mill into the shop. I think I'm at that point now.

I finished wiring the control panel and built the drive unit.

As discussed earlier, I am concerned about what will happen if the mill hits an obstruction. I want it to stop before any damage is done. To hopefully account for this, the idler sprockets are mounted on arms that are spring loaded. If the mill hits something the chain will pull on the sprocket and the arm will swivel. At the end of each arm there is a limit switch to signal the drive unit to shut off. Thats the plan anyhow... more work to do before I can test.
Change is hard....
Especially when a jar full of it falls off the top shelf and hits your head!

Local wind direction is determined by how I park my mill.

doc henderson

I think my tarp motor was 900 watts.  more than I needed but I did not know that as I designed the conveyor.  It pulls about 10 amps while in use.  if I get a jam it goes up.  I have a thermal breaker that goes off at 50 amps as soon as I get a jam form a small piece, it stops the motor for about 5 seconds, and I can turn the machine off.  If my son runs it, it might take longer (not paying attention) and it keeps tripping and resetting without harm to the motor, gear reduction, or chain and sprockets.

add: it is a 12-volt breaker like used with winches on a truck or snow plow.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

fluidpowerpro

My control circuit uses a coil relay to control the power to the motor. The Stop and Go buttons are momentary with a holding contact around them. If the limit switch is tripped, the power is cut off until I hit the Go button again. This will give me time to investigate the obstruction and clear it.
Change is hard....
Especially when a jar full of it falls off the top shelf and hits your head!

Local wind direction is determined by how I park my mill.

doc henderson

should have known you would have it covered, given the complexity of your project.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

jpassardi

Looks good, I see you have some adjustability on the moment arm that the springs can apply. Get that dialed in/ adjust spring rate and you should be in good shape.  :thumbsup:
LT15 W/Trailer, Log Turner, Power Feed & up/down
CAT 416 Backhoe W/ Self Built Hydraulic Thumb and Forks
Husky 372XP, 550XPG, 60, 50,   WM CBN Sharpener & Setter
40K # Excavator, Bobcat 763, Kubota RTV 900
Orlan Wood Gasification Boiler -Slab Disposer

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